R03/R01 TR: Onion Valley > Sixty Lake Basin and Col 7/25-7/29/24

[dearantler]

It had been a few years since I last visited this part of the Sierra and it was time to pay this stunning landscape a return visit.

My husband and I started with a night at Onion Valley campground to help these sea-level dwellers acclimate. We had some afternoon rain but nothing too intense.

Day 1: We started at Onion Valley TH and went over Kearsarge Pass by late morning, then stayed on the high trail rather than the low trail that leads down toward Kearsarge Lakes and Charlotte Lake. Clouds had been forming, and by mid-afternoon rain and limited thunder began. We set up camp about 3/4 of a mile south of Glen Pass, nearish one of the tarns that dot this part of the trail. Conditions were drier than I expected in this average snow year. Already many creeks and streams were dry or down to a trickle, and many of the tarns had visibly shrunk, some likely to be gone by early fall. What was truly delightful about this side of Glen Pass was that the pika population was alive and well, with many critters (I lost count!) industriously skipping from rock to rock to gather their stockpiles of vegetation for the winter. From this camping location, we were treated to a 360-degree sound bath of syncopated pika screeches — to our right, the left, behind us, in front of us! The only other place I had seen close to so many pikas was near Tuolumne Peak in Yosemite. Amazing to see these hardy little non-hibernating vegetarians doing their thing.

Day 2: We went over Glen Pass early in the morning and descended toward Rae Lakes, chatting with a steady stream of JMTers and a few weekenders. Some were visiting from far-flung states — a solo hiker from Florida, a family from Maryland — and were just discovering the incredible magic of the Sierra for the first time. Seeing them in awe was a pleasant reminder just how lucky we are to live in proximity to the Range of Light. At Rae Lakes we left the JMT and picked up the trail toward Sixty Lake Basin. As we ascended, the trail afforded beautiful views of Rae Lakes, the Painted Lady, and eventually Fin Dome. It is an easy trail to follow, and as it ascends and then summits to drop into Sixty Lakes Basin, the intimacy of this basin comes into view. It is smaller in scale, with each of the many lakes in its own small forested valley. We found a great spot to camp on the north end of the long, unnamed lake locally referred to as Finger Lake, just east of Mount Cotter. It is at this spot that the grander views up into the basin and above treeline really open up. It’s an awe-inspiring spot. We stayed two nights.

Day 3: We day hiked cross-country up the basin. This can be accomplished by staying on the west side of Finger Lake. Go high almost immediately to avoid the steep drop-offs encountered along the ledges closer to the lake. The description in Secor’s High Sierra (now available as an e-book!) was helpful. We meandered our way up, encountering some class 2 talus and boulder sections. We stayed due south for much of the route, aiming for the tarns and lake before turning west and zigzagging up ledges to the top. A nice surprise was seeing the last lake before reaching the col come into view to the east with each step, with a beautiful turquoise blue color owing to the glacial melt that feeds it. It was a treat to see this vibrant hue — there are few Sierra lakes this color. Eventually, after about 2 slow miles we made it up to Sixty Lake Col, which offers awesome views into Gardiner Basin and its sparse moonscape. Here we lingered over a lazy lunch, watching a group of about 10 hikers on the Gardiner side crossing their way precariously along what looked to us like the wrong (read: exceedingly steep and eroded) side of the lake nearest the col. At the col we spoke with a solo hiker, Carl from Richmond, CA, who was doing a multiday off-the-beaten-path route starting at Baxter Pass. For having the reputation of being a rather unvisited basin, Gardiner sure seemed busy the day we were there! We opted not to go down into Gardiner Basin, and instead headed back past camp to explore other parts of Sixty Lake Basin, where we picked up the visible trail once more.

Day 4: We hiked back the way we came, going back down toward Rae Lakes and over Glen Pass. Once again, we spoke to many hikers along this fairly busy path. We opted to dry camp along the high trail to enjoy one more quiet night on the trail. We found a delightful spot a little over a mile west of Kearsarge Pass, on a promontory ledge with jaw-dropping views of Bullfrog Lake and the Kearsarge Pinnacles, where we soaked in the afternoon sun during trail happy hour before an early dinner.

Day 5: Enticed by the promise of a hearty meal in Lone Pine, we hiked down at a steady pace. We saw a pair of rather large and healthy-looking sooty grouse foraging near the trail. It was already fairly hot at these lower elevations by the time we reached the trailhead by mid-morning, and we were glad not to be among the hikers just starting their uphill trek!

This area holds a special place in my heart. Onion Valley is it is the first place I ever camped. In preparation for my first night in a tent, I did a great deal of reading about camping in bear country, acclimating to being at altitude, having the right gear etc. Despite my over-preparation, on the morning after my first night I reached into my jacket pocket to find two single-serve packets of honey that I had forgotten to take out of the tent. I thought myself lucky not have been visited by Winnie the Pooh or any other honey-loving ursine!

[shawnterustic]

Fantastic report from a fantastic area! Would have been fun to run into y'all up there!

[dearantler]

Oh hey, Shawnte! Nice to see you on the forum. I hope whatever hiking/writing project you’re working on is taking you to beautiful places!

Fantastic report from a fantastic area! Would have been fun to run into y'all up there!

[stevet]

Lovely area. A few years ago I entered Sixty Lakes from the north end over basin notch. Camping anywhere between Basin Notch and the north end of the finger lake would be glorious. Alas, I though the wonder would continue. I routed along the east shore or the finger lake (thinking it the easier passage - arduous but nothing difficult) only to find the south end of the lake all but devoid of any suitable camping.

I likewise enjoyed route finding through the ledge system to top Sixty Lakes Col. My route ventured into Gardiner Basin. And though encounter far fewer people than you spotted I thought likewise that it was "busy" for a largely trailess route. (I went mid-September). I noted it must be seeing a renaissance of popularity, I've no doubt if multiple groups continue to pass through each year that a visible route will again appear.

Your pictures and route description bring back many fond memories. Thanks for sharing.

[shawnterustic]

Oh hey, Shawnte! Nice to see you on the forum. I hope whatever hiking/writing project you’re working on is taking you to beautiful places!

Fantastic report from a fantastic area! Would have been fun to run into y'all up there!

It is, it is - spending the summer in both familiar areas and others further off the beaten track, so can't complain