R02 TR: Loop out of Tuolumne (out Budd, midpoint Rodgers Basin, return Raffety) July 21st - 27th 2024

[brownbat]

You can follow along with the photo album posted here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/15YonjuVcmCfDBdi7

This was a solo trip. Weather reports had called for most days around 70, but highs in the mid-80s in some parts and a light chance of afternoon thundershowers (I checked the weather for a couple points on the trip – but of course all of this changed after I was in the backcountry!) The temperatures were going to be a lovely change from the heat wave. One theme for the trip was babies! Baby ducks, baby ptarmigans (or was it a sooty grouse?), baby deer, baby marmots.

Day 1 - Budd Trailhead to Echo Lake

I started the trek about 1pm after finding a spot and getting settled in the Tuolumne visitor center. This was my first time visiting the park after the new reservation system and I appreciated how much less bananas it was on a Sunday afternoon (though you still have to circle like a shark for a parking spot). I knew today would be tough with my heaviest pack and being my first big trip of the season - but the climbers use trail was VERY well established and the climb to ~10400 wasn't too troublesome considering. The climbers trail peters out above budd since their destination is Cathedral peak. I skirted around (W) of echo peak instead of going over a 'pass', then contoured to the gentler slop slightly E of echo peak. It was a little brushy/downed loggy but not too bad overall. I got to Echo lake around 6 with one other group also staying in the cluster of boulders on the W side of the lake. Other than the smell of their fireplace wafting over to me occasionally conditions were ideal!

Day 2 - Echo Lake to Washburn Lake

I headed out S on easy cross country heading toward the trail that runs by Cathedral Fork, before meeting up with the Merced drainage. The Merced drainage was HOT that afternoon - the lowest elevation with granite on both sides collecting the suns energy. The power of the Merced river makes the trek worthwhile. Merced lake itself is pretty reedy - the river inlet side near the camping area has a more pleasant 'beach' for swimming, but since there was another group there already so I pushed on. At the closed ranger station I saw a sign warning of treacherous river crossing due to the bridge being out at Lyell fork, but opted to give it a go anyway (the ford was no issue btw). I got my swim on the outlet side of Washburn Lake and found a camping spot on the inlet side - signs of bear activity on the shore of the lake.

Day 3 - Washburn Lake to 10050 Below Harriet Bench

My plan today was to head to Harriet lake. I started hearing thunder and getting occasional drops after 1, but once I headed N at the junction near Isberg pass the rain started and the thunder and lightning got a bit closer. I wasn't sure how far the tree cover went on my intended route, so hunkered down a bit along the trail, around the area where I would have started going cross country. After waiting a bit the storm didn't seem to be getting more serious, so I opted to see how far i could get while staying under tree cover on the way up, and ultimately setup on the first offtrail lake on the way to harriett. Not long after setting up the lightning storm started in earnest, and it was nice to be comfortable in the tent before it got going. While this lake was perfectly pleasant, it turns out the 2nd lake also has tree cover and a MUCH more expansive view - the 2nd lake is the one you should try to stay at if you repeat my route.

Day 4 - Lake Below Harriet Bench to Rodgers Basin (via Foerster Ridge)

Today’s plan was to go over Foerster Ridge pass into Rodgers Basin. The ORIGINAL plan was to also see if I had the stamina to go over Sluggo as well, but for my fitness level and the circumstances that was a major pipe dream. I have been working on expanding my offtrail skill set over the years, and the idea of this trip was to try out a 'hard' (for me) pass and get a feel for how much appetite I have for the harder stuff or longer off trail routes. The initial climb up to Harriet bench and the ridge on the W side was no problem. Around 11:30 or so (earlier today than the day prior by a bit) I started hearing the distant thunder but still not seeing lightning. I ASSuMEd this would be a similar pattern to the prior day, and so decided to continue to go for the pass - though I did take an abbreviated lunch to speed up my progress. What I didn't count on is that a major storm was in the process of forming in the basin I was heading. Not long after getting over the top of the ridge and down the first chute the sky opened up, with lightning touching down on the peaks just across the way (Mt Lyell side). I pulled out my poncho and found a short boulder to crouch near just as the lightning moved over to MY side and started striking Mt Ansel Adams across the way. A deluge of rain and pea sized hail followed for some time. It took four hours to fully descend the pass – following a pattern of waiting for the immediate lightning and rain/hail to stop, making a break for it as quickly and as safely as I could, then stopping and hunkering again when the storm kicked back into high gear. My legs were getting pretty exhausted from staying in crouch position for so long, not to mention navigating the talus and boulders when there was a break. Along the way I made a bad route decision and instead of immediately heading BACK towards the peak after the first chute, then descending a bit less steep talus field I started down what at the time looked like about the same stuff. It steepened out and I either needed to pass over some cliffier granite (I avoid exposure whenever I can), go back UP the slope and repeat going the way I should have gone at the beginning, or take another evensteaperthanthefirstone ™ chute. In clear conditions, I would have gone with the 2nd option. With the lightning to deal with I made the decision to go the faster route down so I butt slide down the steep chute, with only a little issue of small tears in my pants and a semi-uncontrolled glissade on a short snow drift at the end. The pattern of stop and hunker, and go (slowly and surely as I didn’t want my exhaustion to cause any other mistakes) during the breaks continued for multiple levels of talus fields until I got down to the true base just in time for the storm to stop. Well the good news is the storm made some exceptional alpine glow and I had blazing stars the first time that night as the moon rose my later in the evening. The other good news is that I wasn’t hit by lightning or suffer any major falls (just a few small scrapes). Well, that was certainly more adventure than I had wanted!

Day 5 - Lake 10200 in Rodgers Basin to Un-Named Stream Above Lewis Creek Drainage)

The day dawned beautifully, and I began the much easier navigation over granite slopes and shelves toward the Lyell Fork Meadows to return to the trail. Of course easy is subjective. Along the way I was making a move from one granite shelf to another connecting one, as the one I had chosen was going to bottom out – and I broke one of my fundamental rules, to always either SEE the spot you are going to step or test it with a pole before stepping on it. A large granite boulder connected the two shelves, it was sloped a bit steeply on the top, then had a 5-6 foot drop but the top had a good soil shelf/vein for walking across. This is the kind of move I do ALL THE TIME. I was in the process of stepping onto the top of this boulder to the base of a shrub where I could clearly see where I was stepping – and at the last second (without really thinking about it consciously) I decided to take a closer step to a similar shrub but one where I could not see the ground. And of course there was a deep hole. And I had fully committed to the step. I lost my balance, toppled back on the sloped boulder and caught my fall with the shrub on the way down. I ended up getting pretty good bruises and scrapes on both legs but did not tumble all the way off the boulder, and eventually pulled myself up by the bushes. I’m not sure what was more bruised – my legs or my ego. My confidence and enjoyment was significantly impacted going the rest of the way down! The rest of the hike that day was uneventful, and beautiful – with views all along the ridge above the merced river drainage. I could see just how much water had been dumped in the storm last night – every creek was swollen and there were huge drifts of sand and duff and matted vegetation all across the trail with only one person’s footprints on them. The entire mountain must have been flowing. I opted to stop at the last creek before descending down to the Lewis Creek drainage as I was a bit more frazzled and tired than I had originally expected this day, and was not confident of the camping spot options on Lewis Creek.

Day 6 - Over Vogelsang Pass to Camp at Start of Raffety Creek. Day 7 out to Tuolumne.

Everything is better after a good night sleep, and the climb down to Lewis Creek and then up to Vogelsang pass was beautiful and uneventful. Since the night before I was in a more closed in wooded area, I opted to camp out in the open where the Rafferty Creek drainage starts and give myself a relatively short last day (since I was driving back the same day). It was a nice chilly night with beautiful stars and strong, dry wind. I hiked out the next day and was pleasantly surprised by the JMT/PCT section on the way to Tuolumne. I was expecting dust city but my feet stayed clean and the scenery by the Lyell river was lovely. I even got to see a 6+-point velvet-antlered buck across the river near the trailhead. I got cleaned up and was out on the road by ~12:30.

[Carne_DelMuerto]

Thank you for the report. I'm headed to the Lyell Fork/Rodgers Basin at the end of the week. Your report makes no mention of bugs — can I assume they weren't worth mentioning? (A guy can dream...)

[brownbat]

Thank you for the report. I'm headed to the Lyell Fork/Rodgers Basin at the end of the week. Your report makes no mention of bugs — can I assume they weren't worth mentioning? (A guy can dream...)

Bugs were non-existent to minor in almost all sections of my trip EXCEPT (unfortunately for you) the Isberg pass ridge/Rodger Basin/Harriett Bench/Lyell meadow area where they were bad, thought not quite bug-pocalypse level.

[sekihiker]

Thanks for the report, especially the beautiful photos.

[Carne_DelMuerto]

Bugs were non-existent to minor in almost all sections of my trip EXCEPT (unfortunately for you) the Isberg pass ridge/Rodger Basin/Harriett Bench/Lyell meadow area where they were bad, thought not quite bug-pocalypse level.

Ahh, of course. Does this include your campsite at Lake 10200? We've been eyeballing that area for a base camp. Thanks for the info!

[brownbat]

Ahh, of course. Does this include your campsite at Lake 10200? We've been eyeballing that area for a base camp. Thanks for the info!

They were present but weren't as bad there. They were the worst in the Lyell meadow area and the ridge by the intersection with the isberg pass trail.

[balzaccom]

Great report--and a grand adventure. Good for you!

I have to admit that the bugs just haven't been that bad this year. I've taken four trips, three in Desolation, one up Lyell Canyon, and simply haven't been bothered by bugs. My last trip, Sunday/Monday into Desolation, I did not see a mosquito.

[wildhiker]

Nice report. You visited much of the upper Merced River watershed which is one of my favorite areas in the Sierra, especially Harriet Bench and the string of little lakes heading north from it toward Isberg Pass. And your stamina is impressive! You covered far more territory in one week than I ever could.
-Phil