When do you choose to bring micro spikes, crampons, and/or an ice ax?

[Sillyman56]

I am an experienced Sierra summer backpacker but I am very inexperienced in snow travel. I’ve traveled off-trail a lot at lower elevations (Emigrant) and on trail at higher (JMT, HST), and I am looking to start going off-trail in the high Sierra. I currently have a trip planned 8/9-8/12 around the Bear Lakes Basin, possibly including Italy Pass, Dancing Bear Pass, Granite Bear Pass, and/or Feather Pass.

My current extent of snow travel has been brief stretches of snow on-trail on JMT passes and trail runners and trekking poles were fine. I would love to hear what specific conditions cause you to decide to pack any of those 3 pieces of gear I mentioned (spikes, crampons, ice ax). I have gathered that it’s not recommended to try crampons and an ice ax without specific experience learning how to use them. I’m currently checking the satellite views of the snow pack but it’s still hard/impossible to determine if I can make a route that is completely snow free. I imagine much will be, but we will probably hit some snow patches on some of the passes. Would you bring any of those gear items on this trip? How do you determine if you would bring snow travel gear vs just go with trekking poles and trail runners? I obviously know that for early season hiking with lots of snow people bring that gear, but for August hiking with potential patches I’m not sure.

[FrankPS]

I am taking a trip Thursday that will go over Italy, Dancing Bear and Feather Passes. I will not bring ice ax or crampons, because I don't think they will be needed. Part of that decision process is going up to a similar elevation last week, although it was further south in the Sierra.

If they are needed, I will either find an alternate route or bail (i.e., turn around) on the trip.

Sometimes, crampons and an ax will not be enough - you would want a rope with snow protection, too.

I suspect you will be fine without bringing any of that gear. Know alternate routes if snow presents an obstacle.

You are correct that you should have experience and instruction before you bring an ax and pons.

[balzaccom]

Not often enough.

I rarely bring micro-spikes, and there have been a few times when I needed them. I try to avoid hiking in conditions that require crampons and an ice-axe.

[SirBC]

Dancing bear pass looks to have several snow fields remaining including on the final uphill approach to the pass. The two photos below (2nd photo with person in lower left for scale) are from the HST Dancing Bear Pass page and the snow levels in the photos looks similar to what the current Sentinel satellite is showing.





This is the Sentinal satellite view (my route overlaid from 2021 when there was no snow to cross) from July 11th with snow that looks quite similar to the above photos:

I'll be heading over Dancing Bear pass too in about a week and planned on bringing microspikes but would also like to hear what others would or will be doing.

[bobby49]

What is not being discussed is the time of day. Obviously summer snow can be extremely slippery and dangerous in the morning, but it will likely soften up by afternoon.

So, if you are inadequately equipped for slick conditions, try to postpone that section until afternoon, or whenever the snow has softened up. An hour or two can make the difference. In fact, you can mostly predict that slippery risk based on the temperature and the sky conditions. If you are on a strict schedule, like hiking along the JMT, and you can not easily postpone, then you need to mitigate the risk with adequate tools, like microspikes and poles.

[Gogd]

Micro spikes are designed for front country use, such as getting from car to ski lifts, or puttering around town on icy sidewalks.
There are two problems using micro spikes in backcountry conditions:

1. Steep slopes. Micro spikes were not designed for use on steep inclines. The rubber rands that secure the spikes to the boot can stretch, and in the case of a lateral traverse have be reported to roll off the user's boot. Not good!
2. Mixed terrain. The chain linkages connecting the spikes and rands can be damaged traveling over exposed terrain, failing in a manner similar to snow chain failures on tires. Field repairs of such damage is challenging, and not possible if one isn't carrying the appropriate tools and supplies.

The above mentioned issues were posted by thru hikes in the Sierra and Rockies. If you limit use to low aspect slopes you'll be OK. But most passes in the Sierra are steep. If you need traction devices for steep, hard snow, learn how to use crampons and an axe, and bring them. The good news is late season snow fields on passes usually can be crossed when the sun softens the pack, by kicking steps into the snow, and using trekking poles or a staff to facilitate balance. Just make sure you get off the pass before the snow hardens when temperatures cool later in the day.

Ed

[dbargaehr1]

I'll look at Sentinel Hub imagery before I leave and make a determination that way. Last year's record-breaking southern sierra snow meant we brought spikes and definitely needed them for our Bench Canyon trip out of Isberg TH - Rockbound Pass and for some of the avalanche fields we crossed that would have dumped us into the raging San Joaquin if we'd slid too far.

[Wandering Daisy]

Your shoes also make a difference. You need a deep aggressive tread, whether it is a boot, hiking shoe or trail running shoe. If your trail runners do not have a good tread, you may want to bring microspikes. They are not good on steep slopes, and need to be quite tightly put on your shoe- if they are loose they will do no good. Although the general slope can be steeper, sun-cups can be used as "steps". I disagree that microspikes are only for the "Front country". I have effectively used them over passes.

Be aware of your "run-out". If a slip will just send you down the snow where you eventually stop, you may get beat up but unlikely to get a serious injury. If you will go off a cliff before stopping, or hit big rocks, then the runout is poor and you need a means of stopping yourself- ice axe, training and experience to do it instinctively WITH A PACK ON YOUR BACK. Just carrying the equipment is not enough- it is critical to know WHEN to use it and WHEN NOT to use it. In some snow conditions, wearing traction gear is worse than just using your shoe tread. I do not know if it is still available, but the Seattle Mountaineers have published a Mountaineering book called "Freedom of the Hills" which has some good instruction material.

Using snow gear requires a LOT of practice! In addition to a class or a mentor who can teach you, one class is not enough. Go out on snow, gradually increasing the difficulty until you get a real feel of it.

Although a harder pass, if you drop down to Italy Lake and go up Brown Bear Pass, there should be less snow since the pass faces the south and melts out earlier than Dancing Bear Pass.

Regardless of the equipment used, snow is an ever-changing medium and a lot of the safety is a matter of many years of experience. Do not go up a slope to the point where you cannot safely turn back down.

Also be aware of melt-outs near rocks - you can post-hole into these and injure a foot or knee.

[papercup]

I'm excited about this subject, since I took those photos that SirBC posted. Glad they're proving useful! They're from the beginning of September, 2017, which was a fairly high-snow year. I think you will have less snow come August.

We did not have any snow gear on the trip when those photos were taken. Dancing Bear Pass was no problem. The grade on the slopes is mild enough that it's easy to walk across the snow. I wouldn't have concerns about Dancing Bear unless it was completely buried.

Granite Bear was a little more involved. It holds more snow and is steeper, particularly right at the top. Most of it could be descended either by carefully picking your way down, utilizing scattered rocky areas, or by glissading (way more fun). Climbing it in snowy conditions would be doable but a bit tricky near the top. Worth noting that the Bear Lakes side is gentle and straightforward, which is nice. If you're heading into Bear Lakes you can be confident that you're not going to find anything tricky on the other side of the pass. If you're heading out of Bear Lakes and you get to the top and find that the other side is too steep for comfort, it's not that hard to reroute over Dancing Bear or another option.

Here's the final section of Granite Bear:



And here's the steepest very top section:



Bear Lakes is one of the nicest places I've been. Have fun!

[c9h13no3]

The Inyo SAR people hate microspikes. They regularly make posts like this one about this subject early season.

Personally I own crampons and an axe, and I don't own spikes. I also own skis and ski crampons and I'm pretty experienced on snow.

I don't see what's so hard about crampons and an axe. Taking a class to learn how to use them seems like overkill.