Lamarck Col Conditions?

[Eric K.]

Planning to go over Lamarck Col from west to east (i.e., from Darwin Lakes over and down to North Lake) in about 14 days. Anyone been that way recently? Debating between microspikes/poles, or the full crampons/ice axe outfit. Thanks for any input.

[maverick]

The most current report I could find (5/17).
https://snowbrains.com/trip-report-1341 ... alifornia/

PS Found a report from Rachel Oelsner on 5/25 - 5/27 on this website; scroll a ways down: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1578540 ... 8878397895

[Eric K.]

Very helpful. It will be interesting to compare what a month of mostly warm weather does.

[lbsotm]

Planning on doing a very similar trip starting Friday the 14th. Assuming we don't pull an audible, I'll try to circle back and give you a trip report.

[Eric K.]

Did anyone go over Lamarck Col this past weekend? Still planning to head there on Saturday.

[velocamaron]

Yes - my buddy and I parked at North Lake this past Thursday, 6/13, and made it over Lamarck Col and down to the second lake in Darwin's bench before last light. There was a good amount of snow, but not as much as I was expecting. We made it up the Col with microspikes, but the snow was mushy in the afternoon and they didn't help a ton. The weather was threatening, with thunder in the distance, but nothing materialized. The weather was amazing the next two days through evolution basin, over Muir pass and finally out at Bishop pass. Lamarck is definitely doable; get out there if you can.

[Eric K.]

Thanks for the report. I had planned to be there this week, but work interfered. Am planning to go this Saturday June 22 but now in reverse - Bishop Pass, Muir Pass, Lamarck Col. Sounds like I can leave the crampons and ice axe at home, as things seem to be melting out pretty quick?

[velocamaron]

Awesome! I hope you can get out. It's super quiet out there right now because 80% of the PCT cohort is leaving over Bishop Pass to avoid the bridge at South Fork. Crampons are certainly not necessary. I had my ice axe, but only used it a couple times to cut some steps here and there. Poles will do you just fine.

So, here are my thoughts. Going in reverse order of my route means you will be going up Muir Pass via LaConte. Muir Pass was completely snowed over 2-4 miles approaching from either side (Wanda, Sapphire and Helen are still mostly frozen over) and personally, coming over through evolution seemed the preferred approach. One, the slope is more gradual and, again, trail is entirely snowed over. Two, there are some sketchy snow bridges on the LeConte side that I would prefer to descend over. That said, there is a clear trail in the snow you can follow.

Also, while Lamarck is easily doable, I would rather ascend than descend, personally. This is especially true if you're hitting it in the afternoon. The snow slush will make for a slippery and steep descent. That said, if you descend first thing in the morning when the snow is crunchy with some microspikes and poles then you should have no problem. Camp in Darwin Canyon your last night so you can hit it early. Plus, it's freaking gorgeous right now.

Also worth noting is a sketchy section near the top of Bishop Pass. There's a switchback or to that are iced over with a little bit of exposure. This is where going in the reverse order of my route would be preferred. I descended the pass late morning and things were a little loose. Also, you can bypass the sketchy section entirely with a little rock scramble off to the side.

Enjoy!!

[Eric K.]

Super great input. I had indeed hoped to go Lamarck Col first for some of the reasons you suggest, but there are no permits available on Saturday. I'll keep my eyes pealed to see if any open up.

[Eric K.]

I was able to change my permit, so will go with the recommended in-Lamarck out-Bishop Pass route. Will post a report after we return. Thanks!