Crossing the Kings Kern Divide - looking for insight

[Richardtr6]

Hi folks,
Elvis and I plan to continue our historical Brewer team adventures this August by crossing over the Kings Kern divide as Clarence King and Dick Cotter did for the first time in 1864 (no idea exactly where they crossed). We are looking to cross from Reflection Lake over to the upper headwaters of the Kern, ending eventually at Lake South America. I have read many of the discussions of the various passes that exist on this site but am still not clear which is the best approach. We would like to avoid as much class 3 as possible. Harrison Pass looks promising apart from all the loose scree at the top. Little Joe also looks promising if we get the navigation right. I would really appreciate all your expertise and insight, particularly given the heavier snow year we have just had.
Many thanks!
Richard

[stevet]

I've crossed twice at Harrison Pass, both times ~30ish years ago in low snow years. Most recent reports suggest it is sketchier now. Key to both times was not to cross at the low point, rather at a point about 100 ft east of that. There is lots of snow that lingers on the north slope of above average years.

I crossed Little Joe's Pass in 2019, an above average snow year, choosing it because of its E/W orientation and lack of snow. I crossed E to W so finding the correct chute was not a problem. It is a long (~2000') steep descent with a slabby section about midway that took a bit to navigate. The climb up would be a bear, but no snow, and no crumbly stuff like Harrison Pass. Trick is finding the right chute to ascend. Another note on snow, I was out late August and Lucy's Foot Pass, which is a few hundred feet east on Little Joe's was completely socked in with snow.

[TurboHike]

Harrison Pass looks promising apart from all the loose scree at the top.

I recommend watching this video. The loose scree is not just at the top of Harrison Pass.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Taipkbdu2_0

[Richardtr6]

Yikes! Hard to believe that Harrison Pass was a trail at one time. Thanks for the video link. Also appreciate the info on Little Joe. Good to know it is less susceptible to snow. What was the challenge to the slab section - avoiding drop offs? Looks like we need to be careful to not end up climbing Lucy's Pass by mistake...

[Wandering Daisy]

It was over 20 years ago, but I doubt the "trail" has gotten any better with time. It was a high snowpack year, so the pass still was wet and there were some snow stringers. The approach "trail" from the junction with the trail to Reflection Lake was covered with overgrown brush and it was wiped out in a few places by rockfall. On the steepest part of the pass, I punched my ice-axe in the loose scree/dirt/mud to avoid sliding back for every step taken! It definitely is not a place you want to fall. I had taken crampons for a specific climb so decided to just put them on and that offered some traction. But the main issue was sliding backwards. The hard section is not too long but you still have to mentally stay calm. Fortunately, there were a few solid rocks to rest on occasionally. I do not recall it taking long, but I was mighty relieved when I reached the top. I have never done the other passes so cannot compare. I would not say if I really needed an ice-axe or crampons but if hauling them for other purposes, definitely use them. Back then I did not use trekking poles but took an ice axe on every trip just out of habit.

[TurboHike]

Yikes! Hard to believe that Harrison Pass was a trail at one time. Thanks for the video link. Also appreciate the info on Little Joe. Good to know it is less susceptible to snow. What was the challenge to the slab section - avoiding drop offs? Looks like we need to be careful to not end up climbing Lucy's Pass by mistake...

You're welcome!

The approach to Lucy's Pass is from the basin that is immediately west of the Ericsson Crags. The approach to Little Joe's is from the eastern shore of Lake Reflection. I don't think you'll get those two confused. The more likely error would be climbing the wrong chute, either to the left or right of the Little Joe's chute.

[stevet]

The slabby section on Little Joes was about 30’. The slabs sit within a ~50’ wide chute. I suppose at that point one could climb out of the chute and bypass the slabs, but I ultimately descended along a crack at the joint where the north chute “wall” intersects the west facing slab.

That particular section was Class 3, requiring no long reaches or tricky moves. Foot and handholds are easier to see from the base than from the top.

[thegib]

There's also Ericsson pass. When my partner and I left Deerhorn saddle and approached Harrison pass the view spooked her and I suggested we take the route around the corner - which has the big advantage of being invisible from that approach. I remember blocky talus and finally ledges - but not nasty scree. Class 2+ I'd rather go down Harrison than up it, and the reverse for Ericsson. Molly's is certainly C3 for the last 25' and seems like it might hold snow.

[Richardtr6]

Hugely helpful guys. Thanks!
The slabs sound doable from what you describe.
I was not really aware of Ericsson Pass. Must go back to the map to check it out.