R01 TR: Southern Sierra High Route & Muro Blanco Loop (the NJTC Loop for lack of a better name) 8/26-8/31 2022
- Tamarack
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Re: Southern Sierra High Route & Muro Blanco Loop (the NJTC Loop for lack of a better name)
I just came across this post. Since I hiked up the Muro Blanco once (ten years ago now), I will share some comments and photos, as well as some shots from Lakes Basin the next day during a magical few minutes. (The photos are from my first little Panasonic digital camera, so the resolution was not great)
I had been toying with the idea of hiking the MB for years, and finally decided to do it in early September 2012, which was a very dry year, figuring that I would be able to hike mostly in the riverbed itself and avoid bushwhacking (as Arnot described apparently).
I also decided to travel uphill in the MB rather than down, thinking that the likelihood of slipping/falling when stepping/leaping from rock to rock in the river bed would be somewhat less if I was going uphill rather than downhill.
The photo below is midday at the beginning of the MB hike. After hiking due east up the Paradise Valley trail along the South Fork Kings River, I had reached the point where the South Fork turns 90 degrees to a north-south channel, the Muro Blanco canyon. I've just crossed this bridge over the South Fork. The national park trail does not follow the South Fork any further. The trail continues east up the very popular Woods Creek branch, behind and to the right where I’m taking the picture from. So this picture, looking north, shows the very beginning of what will become the Muro Blanco.
I was a little bit apprehensive at this point about starting what I knew would be miles of potentially bushwhacking. But along the entire route I was able to avoid bushwhacking except for one section of maybe 100 yards. The rest was rock and boulder walking/hopping in and along the riverbed, interspersed with some sandy and slabby areas. It was slow going, but actually not nearly as bad as talus hopping for miles, because the rocks in the river bed were nicely rounded and even somewhat leveled, in contrast to the jaggedness of talus.
I reached the upper part of the canyon, where it begins to open up, after about 7 hours of hiking, and came upon a flat slabby area on the river to camp.
Looking down canyon. I had a nice refreshing dip in the little pool. Much of the river in the higher part of the MB was like this, flowing down slabby areas that culminated in pools dammed up by boulders.
Looking up canyon. It was very enjoyable, easy cross country travel in this area.
Classic U-shaped canyon. It drizzled a little bit. Scattered thunderstorms had been forecast.
Late in the day, I decided to try to get halfway up the pass that went over the Monarch Divide, to a small lake, rather than stay down in the canyon for the night. This shot shows the ridge on Arrow Peak that I had climbed 15 years earlier (by moonlight)--the ridge running from the foreground and up to the summit from the left side.
This is by the first lake I reached over the pass down into the Lakes Basin. Clouds formed and dissipated all afternoon. I took a few hours break, rested, and read my little book.
This ridge on Mt. Ruskin is supposed to be a fun climb, with a great view from the minor summit. I considered it but decided I should conserve energy.
Getting toward evening, more clouds started to form. As happens frequently with moist air in the mountains, it started to rain very lightly and softly, but this was far from a typical cold mountain rain. It was warm and light, like a tropical shower, with absolutely still air. It felt like being in Hawaii, but this was in the Sierra Nevada, in September, at 11,000 feet. That was the actual color, with the sun low on the horizon and shining through thin clouds, creating this amazing gold (no color enhancement whatsoever).
Everything was completely calm, except for the soft sound of the creek, with a golden sunlight shining through the rain, backlighting each drop. It actually brought tears, it was so magical. And briefly, a double rainbow.
I’d hoped to set up camp down by the lower shores of this lake. But it got dark too quickly, and I ended up just picking a flat spot by a body of water in the dark.
The next morning, from my little impromptu campsite lower down in the Lakes Basin. It's kind of fun to throw the sleeping bag out in the dark and not know what you're going to see in the morning!
It has occurred to me that, rather than hike the lower part of the Muro Blanco at all, one could descend the upper part of it, which at times of low water would not be difficult. The upper part is very scenic and worth exploring, down to where it starts to close in. Then hike back up. If one were doing a multiday trip in the Bench Lake/Cartridge Pass/Lakes Basin area, an additional day spent exploring the upper part of Muro Blanco would be worth considering.
I had been toying with the idea of hiking the MB for years, and finally decided to do it in early September 2012, which was a very dry year, figuring that I would be able to hike mostly in the riverbed itself and avoid bushwhacking (as Arnot described apparently).
I also decided to travel uphill in the MB rather than down, thinking that the likelihood of slipping/falling when stepping/leaping from rock to rock in the river bed would be somewhat less if I was going uphill rather than downhill.
The photo below is midday at the beginning of the MB hike. After hiking due east up the Paradise Valley trail along the South Fork Kings River, I had reached the point where the South Fork turns 90 degrees to a north-south channel, the Muro Blanco canyon. I've just crossed this bridge over the South Fork. The national park trail does not follow the South Fork any further. The trail continues east up the very popular Woods Creek branch, behind and to the right where I’m taking the picture from. So this picture, looking north, shows the very beginning of what will become the Muro Blanco.
I was a little bit apprehensive at this point about starting what I knew would be miles of potentially bushwhacking. But along the entire route I was able to avoid bushwhacking except for one section of maybe 100 yards. The rest was rock and boulder walking/hopping in and along the riverbed, interspersed with some sandy and slabby areas. It was slow going, but actually not nearly as bad as talus hopping for miles, because the rocks in the river bed were nicely rounded and even somewhat leveled, in contrast to the jaggedness of talus.
I reached the upper part of the canyon, where it begins to open up, after about 7 hours of hiking, and came upon a flat slabby area on the river to camp.
Looking down canyon. I had a nice refreshing dip in the little pool. Much of the river in the higher part of the MB was like this, flowing down slabby areas that culminated in pools dammed up by boulders.
Looking up canyon. It was very enjoyable, easy cross country travel in this area.
Classic U-shaped canyon. It drizzled a little bit. Scattered thunderstorms had been forecast.
Late in the day, I decided to try to get halfway up the pass that went over the Monarch Divide, to a small lake, rather than stay down in the canyon for the night. This shot shows the ridge on Arrow Peak that I had climbed 15 years earlier (by moonlight)--the ridge running from the foreground and up to the summit from the left side.
This is by the first lake I reached over the pass down into the Lakes Basin. Clouds formed and dissipated all afternoon. I took a few hours break, rested, and read my little book.
This ridge on Mt. Ruskin is supposed to be a fun climb, with a great view from the minor summit. I considered it but decided I should conserve energy.
Getting toward evening, more clouds started to form. As happens frequently with moist air in the mountains, it started to rain very lightly and softly, but this was far from a typical cold mountain rain. It was warm and light, like a tropical shower, with absolutely still air. It felt like being in Hawaii, but this was in the Sierra Nevada, in September, at 11,000 feet. That was the actual color, with the sun low on the horizon and shining through thin clouds, creating this amazing gold (no color enhancement whatsoever).
Everything was completely calm, except for the soft sound of the creek, with a golden sunlight shining through the rain, backlighting each drop. It actually brought tears, it was so magical. And briefly, a double rainbow.
I’d hoped to set up camp down by the lower shores of this lake. But it got dark too quickly, and I ended up just picking a flat spot by a body of water in the dark.
The next morning, from my little impromptu campsite lower down in the Lakes Basin. It's kind of fun to throw the sleeping bag out in the dark and not know what you're going to see in the morning!
It has occurred to me that, rather than hike the lower part of the Muro Blanco at all, one could descend the upper part of it, which at times of low water would not be difficult. The upper part is very scenic and worth exploring, down to where it starts to close in. Then hike back up. If one were doing a multiday trip in the Bench Lake/Cartridge Pass/Lakes Basin area, an additional day spent exploring the upper part of Muro Blanco would be worth considering.
- thegib
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Re: Southern Sierra High Route & Muro Blanco Loop (the NJTC Loop for lack of a better name)
Tamarack - dang. I ruled out Muro Blanco based on the prior tales, but your description puts it right back in the realm of when.
- giantbrookie
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Re: Southern Sierra High Route & Muro Blanco Loop (the NJTC Loop for lack of a better name)
I came across this post late. I'm still only in my early 60s and an avid off trail High Sierra backpacker, BUT your report adds to the Legend of Muro Blanco, and reaffirms that I don't want to hike it. I first heard about Muro Blanco when I was a teenager. I think my dad passed along a story of some folks doing it with the message that I should avoid it. He must have mentioned it to me because I had been considering it in some sort of trip plan.
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- Wandering Daisy
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Re: Southern Sierra High Route & Muro Blanco Loop (the NJTC Loop for lack of a better name)
Thanks for the addition! This also puts it on my to-do list, but from the top, late season, down part way and back. I think being able to walk in the stream on rocks makes a big difference. It would be a great add-on to a trip to Lakes Basin.
- gfordwv
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Re: Southern Sierra High Route & Muro Blanco Loop (the NJTC Loop for lack of a better name)
Did the exact same hike to the Muro Blanco in early August, but exited to the JMT and over Pinchot/Glen Passes and returned to Copper Creek via the Bubbs Creek trail. We encountered some bushwacking/talus hopping going the other direction on the Muro Blanco but it wasn't terrible. The descent to Marion Lake and ascent of Cartridge Pass are quite steep but not overly dangerous if you take your time. Marion Lake is beautiful, we didn't intend to camp there as we got there around 1 PM but stopped to eat lunch and got caught in a storm and decided to stay instead of going up into the Lakes basin. The hike from Grouse Lake to the meadows below the Glacier Lakes is really special, as is the section approaching Gray Pass. I don't remember any difficulty going from White to Red as we dropped down to the left off of White Pass and then just traversed across to Red Pass. Nice TR!
- alpinemike
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Re: Southern Sierra High Route & Muro Blanco Loop (the NJTC Loop for lack of a better name)
Coming in late to this post as well.. As someone who's done both the Muro Blanco & Enchanted Gorge and part of Goddard Creek... The Muro Blanco was by far the hardest and most masochostic of them all. Long, relentless, and numbing in places. It was the bushwhack that got myself, and Roguephotonic to retire from bushwhacking routes for good. I would much prefer going down the Enchanted Gorge, which I believe was more scenic on the whole. Great report. I learned my lesson on wearing pants and a long sleeve shirt when hiking the Enchanted Gorge to not repeat that lesson in the Muro Blanco. What you didn't have was a down-pouring thunderstorm that lasted hours.. somehow we got lucky enough to get that in both the Enchanted Gorge and & Muro Blanco!
Never put off a backpacking trip for tomorrow, if you can do it today...
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- crutherford
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Re: Southern Sierra High Route & Muro Blanco Loop (the NJTC Loop for lack of a better name)
@Tamarack - what an awesome trip and photos! The golden mountain is just fantastic...seeing it in person must have been magical. Good for you to brave the MB by yourself, although I'm incredibly jealous you were able to walk along the river bed. The brush was head high next to the river for us almost the entire way (there must have been more water my year) so being able to walk next to the south fork wasn't really an option unless we just walked in the river itself. Really cool and thank you for sharing. I remember the old U-2 spy plane used to be called the dragon lady because sometimes she was a dragon to fly and sometimes she flew like a lady. I feel like the MB is similar...although maybe the MB is more dragon than lady (simply to continue the metaphor and not intending to offend anyone).
@giantbrookie - you still have time to change your mind and do the hike! Now that I'm a few months removed I'm really, really glad I did it.
@gfordwv - we considered bailing on the MB and exiting to the JMT, going over Pinchot and then Glen but I just didn't have it in me to do two more passes. I figured the MB would be an easier option (I'm wrong a lot about a lot of stuff it turns out).
@alpinemike - you nailed the description of the Muro Blanco. Numbing is a good word for it. And to do it in the rain...I think we would have cried. We're considering doing the enchanted gorge and goddard creek at some point but have nothing planned. Your and Roguephotonic's TRs are the stuff of legends so this may also have been our first and last big bushwack. We'll see...
Thanks for the great discussion so far everyone!
@giantbrookie - you still have time to change your mind and do the hike! Now that I'm a few months removed I'm really, really glad I did it.
@gfordwv - we considered bailing on the MB and exiting to the JMT, going over Pinchot and then Glen but I just didn't have it in me to do two more passes. I figured the MB would be an easier option (I'm wrong a lot about a lot of stuff it turns out).
@alpinemike - you nailed the description of the Muro Blanco. Numbing is a good word for it. And to do it in the rain...I think we would have cried. We're considering doing the enchanted gorge and goddard creek at some point but have nothing planned. Your and Roguephotonic's TRs are the stuff of legends so this may also have been our first and last big bushwack. We'll see...
Thanks for the great discussion so far everyone!
- cgundersen
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Re: Southern Sierra High Route & Muro Blanco Loop (the NJTC Loop for lack of a better name)
Colin, thanks for a sensational post and I really appreciate the droll captions! The blood shots simply confirm what an extraordinary trip it was. Those lacerations/bruises are reminiscent of day 1 shots on most of my trips: the overflow helps the lichen grow.
But then to inspire that outpouring from Tamarack. Two spectacular trips for the price of one thread. You guys are amazing! Cameron
But then to inspire that outpouring from Tamarack. Two spectacular trips for the price of one thread. You guys are amazing! Cameron
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