R04 TR: 9/19-25,2005 Edison Lake Loop

[Wandering Daisy]

Loop from Edison: September 2005

Trying to squeeze one more trip in at the end of backpacking season, a loop from Edison Lake including Silver Divide and Roper’s High Route from Tully’s Hole to Mills Creek in Second Recess seemed ideal. I would see new country and had never been to Edison Lake.

The road to Edison Lake was the first surprise! I was going in on a Sunday when everyone else was going out. Here I was, in my little blue Toyota Corolla, up against Jeeps and Hummers. Guess who always had to back up on the single lane road? Finally I caught up to a stock truck with horses and stayed hidden behind the behemoth of a vehicle, never backing up again. I arrived at the lake and took a chilly swim. Two fellows who had the best campsite were leaving. Soon I was sitting back and drinking a beer enjoying a nice fire, already built, which the other fellows had left for me.

Day1. 9/19/05: Edison Lake to Silver Lake (13.5 miles, 7.5 hours, 3350 feet gain)

I got up early intending to take the first boat taxi. It was fifteen minutes before opening when I peeked into the store/café door, which was open. I was informed that I could not enter the nicely heated building. I would have bought breakfast from them had they let me in. Instead, I returned to the frigid parking lot and cooked breakfast. Back at the store I asked to buy a ticket for the boat ride. I was informed that because I did not book a room there last night I would have to park my car a half mile away and walk back to the boat ramp. And to boot, the boat would be an hour late, no reason given. I drove up to the trailhead parking lot and simply decided those jerks were not going to get my business. I would get to the Edison Lake inlet the hard way.

The dusty trail climbed and dropped elevation more than expected. This exercise had consumed two and a half hours and much energy but I still wanted to make it to Silver Lake. At the first hill, I passed two hikers. When I arrived at Pocket Meadow I took a break for lunch. I was slowing down as I climbed the switchbacks to the second bench, regretting that I had been so stubborn and taken the boat! I had one more bench to go. Near the top I sat on a flat rock and rested for some time. Lacking water I had no choice but to continue. Clouds were building. I finally reached Silver Lake and found a nice campsite at the lower end, took a quick bath, set up my little tent and cooked a hearty dinner. My planned short first day turned into a longer day due to my desire to “punish” the boat taxi jerks. I think I just punished myself. The day was not unreasonable, but I was beat.

Mono Creek

Cliffs on Mono Creek

Pocket Meadow

Day2. 9/20/05: Rainy day to Lake Virginia (8 miles w/backtrack, 7.5 hours, 2000 feet gain)

A cloudy sky greeted me when I awoke. The plan was to reach Tully’s Hole, go up Fish Creek and jump onto Roper’s High Route. The sky darkened to the north as I walked over Silver Pass. I kept marching into the cold and windy conditions as the weather worsened and I stopped at Warrior Lake to put on rain gear as it began to rain lightly. As the trail dropped towards Cascade Valley I met a few PCT hikers who were going up. The rain increased and at a flat at 9,400 feet, I spotted a dome tent with backpackers snuggled inside. I kept on going, dropping to Cascade Creek and turned upstream. I erroneously thought I was on Fish Creek.

Reading a map in pouring rain has its disadvantages and I was struggling with locating myself. I came to a bridge, failed to see the sign, crossed and ate lunch. The area looked like it had been damaged by flooding so maybe the trail had been re-routed. It began to pour so I put up my hood and hunched down with eyes to the trail. I started to go up switchbacks, confused because there were no switchbacks on my on my intended route. By the time I got to the top, the clouds were slightly lifting. I came to a beautiful lake and crossed the inlet.

I was at Lake Virginia, but I had walked off my maps. I sat on a rock and studied my map that showed the trail to Tully Lake, my mind bending reality to fit the wrong map in front of me! I must have made really good time I rationalized, as it was several miles to any lake on my original route. I kept going until the trail went over another small pass, descended, traversing terrain of obviously volcanic rock. My planned route went through granite, exactly “beautiful granite benches and slabs”, so said Roper’s book. I now knew I made a wrong turn and walked off my maps. I turned around (just before Purple Lake) and went back to the small pass.

The weather was deteriorating and the going was tough, so I bailed to the lake below, where I had passed a few hours earlier, and camped. I would figure it out next morning. My site had a good canopy cover. It started to rain. I quickly went down to the lake to fill my water bottles and hunkered under tree limbs cooking dinner. I spent the rest of the afternoon in the tent. Soon it was dark and pouring down rain. Shortly, it was dark and snowing. I slept poorly as I beat snow off my little tent, which was not designed to be used in a snowstorm.

Silver Lake in the morning

Blackening clouds on Silver Pass

Warrior Lake

Virginia Lake

Where I camped at Virginia Lake

[Wandering Daisy]

Day3. 9/21/05: Back on Track to above Tully Lake (5.5 miles, 4 hours, 2000 feet gain)

I awoke to blue sky and a few inches of snow on the ground. First order of business was to get out from under the drippy canopy that was dropping large clods of snow on me. I hauled my gear out to rocks in the nearby meadow, cooked breakfast, and after several hours, gear was dry and packed, ready to go. I did not have waterproof shoes so I stepped lightly, as if that would make a difference. As I rounded the corner and started to descend the switchbacks that I ascended the previous day, the snow vanished and I immediately knew where I was, as beautiful Tully’s Hole glowed below in the early morning light. I had not realized going up how much elevation I had gained! I had really walked off my map big time!

At the bottom I saw the huge obvious sign that pointed to the trail I intended to take the previous day. Oh, well, I was now “found” and I got to do more of Roper’s High Route than I had planned! However I was a day behind schedule so did not dally. The Fish Creek trail was quite beautiful, particularly where the creek cut through granite in a small slot canyon. I steadily climbed and got my feet wet crossing at Horse Heaven. Because of fear of snow on slabs I did not cut cross country up the Isaack Walton drainage, as suggested in Roper’s guide. Instead, I continued upward to a beautiful meadow with bold fall colors and found a small use trail that went to Tully Lake.

I traveled cross country south up grassy ramps and around small granite domes and many small ponds. At the end of the valley, I was choosy about my campsite, picking one on a flat sandy spot on the top of a small rock so I would get both the evening and morning sunshine. I set up and went for a walk to a nearby pond for a bath and to photograph. The lighting, rock colors and fall vegetation were fabulous.

I staked out a view I wanted if the sky gods would be nice enough to give me a sunset. Back in camp I cooked dinner and sipped hot tea watching the fading light. My wish had been granted. I ran down to my designated spot and took many photographs of the ever changing light. I slept comfortably with a full belly and satisfied mind.

Snow on the ground in the morning

Snow on the peaks

Tullys Hole

Horse Heaven

Upper Fish Creek Canyon

near Tully Lake- McGee Pass trail junction

Red Mountain and Tully Lake

Tully Lake and bench above

Pond by where I camped

Valley above Tully Lake

[Wandering Daisy]

Day4: 9/22/05 Tully Lake to Laurel Creek (4.0 miles, 7 hours, 2000 feet gain)

Another perfectly blue-sky morning dawned, the sun’s rays hitting me early as I had hoped. I packed up and started towards Shout-of-Relief Pass. It seemed at every bend I rounded, there were great photo shots. Travel was easy and the terrain enchanting. Taking the path of least resistance with only a bit or rock scrambling, I reached a pass, looking down on the deep blue of Bighorn Lake. Well, I must be on Rhone Pass which would also work. Shout of Relief Pass is a bit harder to reach from Tully Lake, but you pay dues on Rhone Pass with difficult navigation above Bighorn Lake; a complex puzzle finding detours around scrub vegetation and cliffs.

I crossed over the shoulder where there was a good view of the upper part of Shout of Relief Pass. Then I dropped down a gully to Rosy Finch Lake where I decided it was a good time to wash my hair since it would dry completely before the chilly night. I filled water bottles and moved away from the lake, making several more trips to the lake for rinse water. Once all soap was out, I stuck my head in the lake and jumped in myself. Although not warm by any means, this late in the season the water was pleasant. I lay in the sunshine, ate lunch and dried off. If it were not so early in the day I may have camped here on a nice grassy campsite.

Then next pass, Bighorn Pass, was not so easy. Steep grassy slopes turned into rock ramps and ledges. On top, I could see Laurel Lake but was more intrigued by Grinnell Lake. My route down the initial 300 feet of steep rocky benches was not my best effort at route finding. After muddling down to about 10,900 feet, I traversed east to Grinnell Lake. Trying to not loose elevation I made it harder than it had to be. Grinnell Lake was beautiful, stark and windy. It again was too early to camp so I walked the west shore of the lake to the outlet.

Trouble began at the west side of the lake. I found a fair path down the southeast side of the outflow creek to 10,600 feet elevation and hit a 200-cliff. I crossed to the northwest side and although low angle, I had to descend exposed smooth granite slabs, followed by a bit of nasty brush before I hit the valley bottom just downnstream of Laurel Lake.

I descended another enchanted valley with fantastic views of the Recesses to the east camping just before the drop off at 10,200 feet. For seven delightful hours I had walked slowly, photographed and explored along the way. I camped at 3:30 PM, giving me lots of time to wash clothes watch the sunset. Dusk comes early this time of year, so I was in the sleeping bag early. Once the sun went down it was mighty cold.

Bighorn Lake from Rhone Pass

Shout of Relief Pass viewed from ridge above Bighorn Lake

Rosy Finch Lake from Bighorn Pass

East end of Grinnell Lake

Grinnell Lake

Grinnell Lake

Valley below Laurel Lake

Camp

[Wandering Daisy]

Day5. 9/23/05: Laurel Creek to Second Recess (7.2 miles, 8.5 hours, 2510 feet gain/1785 loss)

The morning broke to a beautiful sunrise with the clouds lifting from the recesses. I followed a fairly good use trail on the east side of the creek. The steep trail dropped 1400 feet to Mono Creek. Each section of flatter terrain turned into a swamp where the trail was lost. Just about down, my pack strap broke so I had to stop and improvise new strap connections using tent cord.

About a third of a mile down Mono Creek I spotted the Second Recess trail junction. There was a crossing at an over-used horse camp that would require deep wading; in retrospect it may have been easier. I found a log crossing downstream, and managed to get across without falling off and stopped for a snack. A continuing obvious trail dead-ended in thick brush. I then backtracked and went upstream along Mono Creek, bushwhacking the horse crossing.

The trail became faint but I could follow fresh horse tracks as the trail went through an old burned area. Soon I broke out into an open meadow where the creek meandered slowly through in mellow pools. As I rounded one bend a dog barked at me. Two old fellows, their horse and dog were camped. I put down my pack and went over to talk with them. They were a kick. Both were in their 70’s and were hunting. I did not even know it was hunting season. They were going out the next day so offered me their left over candy and apples, the latter I accepted.

I said bye and followed the faint trail until Mills Creek turned northeast. I failed to find the use-trail and impatiently, started up the rock slabs, crossed and ascended steep open forests. Steep slopes forced me across again until I was stuck in thick willows. I followed a game trail beating my way through the thicket and came out to the bottom of a waterfall. I climbed the slabs on the left side to the top where I intersected a use trail. A bit more time to find the trail would have avoided all this, but the waterfall down the slab was amazing.

I eventually reached the first small lake and walked a prominent ridge of low angle slabs to the second unnamed lake. From here it was easy going to Lower Mills Creek Lake. A fierce wind was blowing and there were no sheltered sites at the lake. It was getting late and I was tired. As I sat near the trail a couple came around the lake on the last leg of their trip, having been out for a month doing the High Route.

I hunted for a campsite and ended up going back to the lower small lakes. I bathed while still in the sunshine. There were only marginal views so I filled water bottles and headed up the slabs hoping for a better view and found a nice site on glacial polish rock overlooking a small valley below. I was just far enough down to be protected from the wind. I explored the area, finding that I could probably go back down the small valley instead of the way I came up. As I cooked dinner, it looked like a good sunset was in the making. I watched the ever changing colors and then settled into my tent for a cold night.

Dropping to Mono Creek

Waterfall (when I missed the trail)

Meadow below Mills Creek Lake

Lower Mills Creek Lake

Snow on Mt Gabb

Lower Mills Creek Lake

Rock Slabs near camp at sunset

Camp (tent is lower right, hidden in the trees)

[Wandering Daisy]

Day6. 9/24/05: Mills Creek Lk to 7770 on NF Mono Creek (7.7 miles, 6.5 hours, 1570 feet gain/2890 loss)

In the morning I was faced with deciding what to do next. My original plan was, when I got back down to the Second Recess, to climb into the First Recess, camp and descend it the next morning. My food was getting low. Well, first order of business was to get down.

I dropped into the small valley to my north and it offered an interesting alternative to my route up. On the way down, I found the use-trail quite a distance northwest of the waterfalls, making my descent much easier than my ascent. I looked up and it seemed a horribly long climb to get up into the First Recess and laziness took over. I simply took the trail back down the Second Recess to Mono Creek. I again crossed on the log I had used before and made good time going down the heavily used horse trail. I ran into one more hunter who had not seen anything or even shot once. He said he wished he would have just hiked, finding the scenery superior to the hunting. As I looked over to the First Recess I was glad I did not choose that route. Finding the route down the last bench would have been difficult.

Before the trail climbed over the rib to the North Fork of Mono Creek I soaked my feet. As I climbed up the hill I wondered what it would be like going directly down Mono Creek to Edison Lake. When I reached the North Fork I did not want to go down into the thick forest to camp. I had remembered some good campsites up the trail towards Silver Lake when I had walked in. I found a wonderful site, particularly beautiful little pools of water set in the granite slabs, sort of little private whirlpools. I was sad that this was my last night in the mountains.

Mono Creek

Mono Creek rock walls

First Recess

First Recess

Aspen

Day7. 9/25/05: Forget the boat/ out the trail (8.3 miles, about 5 hours, 925 feet gain/1885 loss)

I reached Edison Lake in a couple of hours but having no idea when the boat would arrive I decided to walk out given my light pack. I was again reminded how long and hilly this trail is! I rested at a pretty boat-in campsite with a picnic table and benches. I reached my car, happy that it started, stopped at the store and bought a beer and drove to the public boat ramp and took a swim. It was early in the afternoon so I drove home.

[Wandering Daisy]

Route Map

[wildhiker]

Thanks for another fine trip report in a beautiful area. I've been to some of those same places and really like that Silver Divide region. I especially liked that plateau above and south of Tully Lake - particularly Cotton Lake.

I've never "walked off my map" - sounds kinda scary. But I know what you mean about believing I was at one location when I was really at another. Done that a couple times. I always bring a second small-scale map that covers a much larger area than I could possibly hike through, for orientation and backup.

-Phil

[Harlen]

Thanks for another inspirational trip report. I really want to get back into the Grinnell Lakes basin to explore, and just enjoy the views. I think I can imagine the area where you too lost the faint trail up Mills Creek. Manu and I lost it too this summer, but we went to the east of it, and never even saw the waterfall, and that lowest lake. You wrote:

... I failed to find the use-trail and impatiently, started up the rock slabs, crossed and ascended steep open forests. Steep slopes forced me across again until I was stuck in thick willows. I followed a game trail beating my way through the thicket and came out to the bottom of a waterfall. I climbed the slabs on the left side to the top where I intersected a use trail. A bit more time to find the trail would have avoided all this, but the waterfall down the slab was amazing.
I eventually reached the first small lake and walked a prominent ridge of low angle slabs to the second unnamed lake. From here it was easy going to Lower Mills Creek Lake.

We thrashed through some willows too, but above and east of the use trail. I sure like the scenes you captured up in the Mills Creek valley, and that photo of Tully Hole. Thanks again, Harlen.

p.s. It seemed like a lot of bathing for one trip Nancy. Yep, I checked again, and note bathing on every day of your trip, except Day 2. I guess this is another of your pre-fishing trips; now that you spend afternoons fishing, I hope you can avoid the freezing baths.

[frozenintime]

i love these archival reports, wd!

[Wandering Daisy]

Thanks everyone for reading the trip report.

I too want to spend more time in the 2nd Recess and also explore First Recess. One thing I like about re-writing my old trips is that it helps me figure out where to go on my next trips. I will be staying in the Sierra all next summer. I really liked the waterfall I "discovered" when I missed the trail. And once out of the brush, scrambling up granite slabs is really fun.

I pretty regularly walk off my maps- particularly in the Wind Rivers. I put together a map packet - printed maps off of TOPO. Inevitably I miss a slice of area when making the maps. But I usually am familiar enough with the terrain that even without a map I can do OK. Intellectually I know that you need to clear your mind of where you THINK you are when trying to figure out where you actually are, but I keep making that mistake. I think it is human nature.

Yes, I bathe almost every day, even now that I fish! Nowadays I mostly do "bucket baths"- take my pot to the lake and scoop water over myself. Seems like if one steps into a lake you stir up a lot of algae and fine dirt. Sad condition of a lot of mountain lakes lately. You do not get as cold as you would submerging. The trick is to take the bath before you cool off from hiking. In fact, when I am done hiking the cold bath feels great! But Harlen, you are still welcome on any of my trips even if you do not bathe the entire trip!