R04 TR: Snowfall, Blue Skies, and Big Fish- Woodchuck Country to Blackcap Basin 10/10 - 10/19 2021

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Harlen
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R04 TR: Snowfall, Blue Skies, and Big Fish- Woodchuck Country to Blackcap Basin 10/10 - 10/19 2021

Post by Harlen »


!
Six partners, half human-half dog, made a luck-filled trip to Woodchuck Country and Blackcap Basin. The luck might easily have been of the bad kind. For instance, if the first storm had lasted longer, we would have missed the fishing highlights in Woodchuck, and had a colder, wetter time hiking into the High Country. And then, if the second snow storm dumped a bit more, and had included the high wind that we heard wailing above us, we might have been pinned down in a bad way. Instead, by the grace of something, it dawned clear and beautiful the day after both storms. Another piece of good luck was our near complete solitude. Though we were surrounded by friendly hunters on the roads in, and at the trailheads, once on the trail we saw just one horse packer and his client on our first day, and after that we had 9 full days alone out there.


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Woodchuck Lake post storm.


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Crown Lake the morning after the 2nd storm.


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The dogs loved it!



We left on 10/10, the day before the predicted one day storm on Columbus Day. We hustled up from the Rancheria TH, but fell short of Woodchuck Lake by a few miles. A thirsty time searching for water along dry Woodchuck Cr. yielded a very small waterhole at a low point in the rocky creek bed, and we camped by it. The next day we left camp early, and were all set up when the windy flood of graupel and snowflakes came down.


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Oh well.


It was a cold storm, but we were well prepared. The only hole in our preparation was that my wife Lizzie and friend Carleton chose to use their favorite, light footgear-- La Sportiva approach shoes, and they suffered a bit for it. Warm, dry camp shoes helped a lot, but after the second, heavier snowfall, they resorted to wearing the poor man's vapor barrier-- plastic bread bags over socks, tucked into gaitors. The Columbus Day storm was exactly the 1 day affair predicted by NOAA. We enjoyed the snowy scenery from the comfort of a basecamp, and did alright with the fish.


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We learned that fish will bite during snowfall.


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We each caught a few nice Brookies, and kept 5 for dinner, from 13 to 15.5 inches, and fat!



Three fish were thick, but our first 2 fish were of the big-headed, narrow bodied version-- they are the lower 2 in the photo above. I'm not sure if this is significant, but the larger fish were all caught very near the inlet to the lake.

We enjoyed fishing success at both Woodchuck and Halfmoon Lakes, and then made it to Portal Lake on day 4, where we stayed for 3 nights. From that nice basecamp, Carleton and I had thought to cross Finger notch, or head over to Blue Canyon via Mantle Pass, but instead we enjoyed two full days of wandering and fishing around Blackcap Basin. To see even more of it, we chose to exit via Blackcap Pass. It gave us tremendous views of the mountains to the east, but it proved a tricky crossing. The low point is the spot closest to BC Mtn., but being northwest facing, it was pretty treacherous with the new snow. We climbed up the slope to the north, which gave us a steep but dry southwest slope to descend. We made it to the deep woods of Guest Lake, where we caught another mass of fish. On our eighth day, we crossed the North Fork of the Kings River, then hiked over Scepter Pass, and made it to Crown Lake.

Regarding the KNP fire and smoke, we did see a slight smoky haze to the south from Crown Pass on 10/12. From then on, we had spectacularly clear skies up in Blackcap Basin till the snowstorm of 10/17, when we were back at Crown Lake. Not knowing the weather forecast, on 10/18 we decided to hike far, in order to position ourselves for an easy exit. So the day after the storm, we hiked 12 miles, over Crown Pass, and down to within 4 miles of the Woodchuck TH. In the snow-covered landscape, we got off-route from Crown Pass till we reached the trail that runs west from Woodchuck Lake. We opted to return that way, rather than heading back up to Rancheria TH due to the greater ease of this route. I was confident I could hitch a ride with hunters, or jog-hike the 5 miles back to our car at Rancheria. Again, we had good luck-- the storms held off, and the hunters came through with a ride.


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Arriving at Woodchuck Lake.


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We were stoked to arrive just before the weather.


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The snow was fine too.


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Last edited by Harlen on Thu Nov 04, 2021 1:51 pm, edited 10 times in total.
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Snowfall, Blue Skies, and Big Fish- Woodchuck Country to Blackcap Basin TR: 10/10 - 10/19.

Post by Harlen »

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In the morning, we fished again with good success.


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By the time we left, much of the new snow had melted from the sunny areas.


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On Crown Pass, with Crown Lake in the foreground, and the peaks of White Divide in the distance, hanging over Blackcap Basin.


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Our next stop was Halfmoon Lake.


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Carleton hiking through the brilliant Red fir forest.


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Portal Lake has nice views from the south side, and great camping on the north. At 10,320+, it is at legal fire level* when the fire restrictions come off.
*That's assuming the 10,400' old legal level; it may be 10,000' now?


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Wandering around the lower basin from Portal Lake was wonderful.


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Last edited by Harlen on Tue Jun 20, 2023 2:52 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Snowfall, Blue Skies, and Big Fish- Woodchuck Country to Blackcap Basin TR: 10/10 - 10/19.

Post by Harlen »

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On our first day hike from Portal Lake, we chose to visit Pearl Lake, and the higher lakes to the north.


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Rushes (Juncus sp.) in clone circles.


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Inlet side of Pearl Lake. Wolfie still has a great interest in fish.


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We caught Rainbows up to 14 inches.


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Pearl Lake looking pretty low.


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Nice view of the Finger Peak massif. The Finger Notch crossing is seen cutting through the sunlit ridge, in line with the summit.


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Regiment Lake.



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Battalion Lake.



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We made a wide circle back around Pearl Lake. (click Carleton's pano. to enlarge it)
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Last edited by Harlen on Fri Oct 29, 2021 1:35 pm, edited 12 times in total.
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Re: Snowfall, Blue Skies, and Big Fish- Woodchuck Country to Blackcap Basin TR: 10/10 - 10/19.

Post by wildhiker »

Great pics. Did you have any trouble following the trail from Halfmoon Lake to the North Fork Kings River? I kept losing it even in mid-summer in 2019. Much of it barely had any tread, and there was lots of deadfall.
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Re: Snowfall, Blue Skies, and Big Fish- Woodchuck Country to Blackcap Basin TR: 10/10 - 10/19.

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Thanks for the great report! Nice to read a trip report late in the season.

I was also at Portal Lake this summer, once going in and then at Cathedral Lake going out (from Courtright, Maxon Meadow TH). It took 2 long days to reach Portal Lake, with not much but woodsy hiking and no lakes along the way. Looks like your approach had some nice lakes and fishing on the way. I left my fish stringer in a tree at the north end of Portal Lake. Did you happen to see/find it? Cost $1 so not a loss but I hate to leave stuff. I was not sure from your photos; I think you day-hiked to Cathedral Lake? It is below Finger Col. I caught a 14-inch Rainbow in the lake this summer. Did you fish Cathedral Lake?

West side of Blackcap Pass is hard, even in good weather. I cannot imagine going down those ledges and cliffs in snow and ice. You have longer legs then me; I had a heck of a time with the huge "steps/cliffs". Several "fall you may die" places on that pass. I have always disagreed with the class 2 rating. And the route finding across Blackcap Basin on the east side can be tricky too if you get too high. I have done it twice now and still feel the rating is off.

Years ago I hiked to Guest Lake from Horsehead Lake mid-season and it was mosquito hell. Never went there again. Looks like October in snow is a better time to go. Mid-season this year, poor Horsehead Lake water level was so low and most shoreline vegetation dried up. Looked so sad.

A question about the little dog, with long fur; my dog has very long fur. Do you have any trouble getting your dog dry before getting into the tent? We ended up leashing our dog a hour or so before night, so she would not jump into the lakes and get soaked and muddy just before coming in the tent. I cannot imagine keeping a dog dry in snow.
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Re: Snowfall, Blue Skies, and Big Fish- Woodchuck Country to Blackcap Basin TR: 10/10 - 10/19.

Post by sekihiker »

Great trip in country I love. Good looking photos. Great looking fish.
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Snowfall, Blue Skies, and Big Fish- Woodchuck Country to Blackcap Basin TR: 10/10 - 10/19.

Post by Harlen »

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I like the way Bear's drinking ripples marred the reflection.


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Our second day trip was up to Cathedral Lake, right under Finger Peak.


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We caught enough fish for dinner and breakfast.


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Nice coves and beaches along the north shore of Cathedral.


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And scenic fishing!


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On our 7th day we crossed Blackcap Basin, heading for Blackcap Pass. We drank at these ponds, with a view of Mt. Goddard.


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We dropped our packs, and made a nice detour up to Rainbow Lake. The low point seen here leads to Confusion Lake and Pass.


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Interesting geology on this side of the basin.


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And tired dogs.


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Last edited by Harlen on Fri Oct 29, 2021 1:38 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Snowfall, Blue Skies, and Big Fish- Woodchuck Country to Blackcap Basin TR: 10/10 - 10/19.

Post by Harlen »

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In this outcrop of volcanic rocks we found red scoria, and dense basalt.


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Marmot skull.


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Guest Lake from the ridge near Blackcap Pass.


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Guest Lake.


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Just below Guest Lake are the very nice pair of McGuire Lakes, we are now descending Bench Valley.


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Back down on the North Fork of the Kings, which was half water, half ice.


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Near Scepter Pass, with our route down from Bench Valley shown in red.


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South side of Scepter Pass leads to this huge meadow.


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We crossed over from Scepter to Crown Lake, where it snowed for most of the night.


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I fished it hard both night, and again at dawn. I tried wherever I could get a lure around the new ice, but not a bite. Too much snow in the lake? Too late and then too early?
Last edited by Harlen on Fri Oct 29, 2021 1:43 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: Snowfall, Blue Skies, and Big Fish- Woodchuck Country to Blackcap Basin TR: 10/10 - 10/19.

Post by rlown »

Nice fish! Wish I could sleep as soundly as a dog!
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Re: Snowfall, Blue Skies, and Big Fish- Woodchuck Country to Blackcap Basin TR: 10/10 - 10/19.

Post by balzaccom »

Really great report. Thanks for posting this. I've done a few trips this late in the year, but nothing ever so ambitious. Great to see you guys having fun...and catching nice fish!
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