R04 TR: Red Mountain Basin - July 7-12, 2020

[grampy]

My quick synopsis:

Starting (and ending) TH: Maxson (Courtright Reservoir)

Lakes visited: Fleming, Rae, Lower Indian, Davis, Dale, Disappointment, Hell for Sure, Horseshoe, Blackrock, Big & Little Shot, and Devil’s Punchbowl.

Fishing: none (apologies to those who find this to be blasphemy)

Photos taken: way too many

I was inspired to do this trip by reading trip reports by sekihiker, kpeter, Wandering Daisy, and others. I modeled the general direction of my circuit (minus his peak-bagging) from Bill’s old TR (thank you !). Lacking the skills and stamina of those who’ve been doing this stuff for many years, I skipped some lakes (Diamond-X, Arctic, Upper Indian, Turf), but still had a nice adventure.

And now, on to my (possibly too-long) report.

Day 1:
After an overnight stay in Clovis, I had a nice, nearly traffic-free drive to the trailhead. Some pre-hike indecision (gear to leave in the car; food to leave in a bear box) got me on trail around 10:00.

Maxson Dome

I figured this to be just a day to get “from point A to point B”, but I tried to focus on the positives: song birds (around Maxson Meadow), a relative lack of skeeters, a few nice tree specimens, and a pleasant stop at Post Corral Creek. Here, I met four hikers (about to turn south onto the Meadow Brook trail) and one horse packer, who mentioned counting about 70 people in the Basin over the weekend of the 4th. I filtered water, then continued another 2 miles (with some elevation gain) and made a dry camp.

Day 2:
The extra effort (to camp beyond PC Creek) paid off, as there was still a bit of a climb this morning. Finally leveling out somewhat and coming upon a wet forested area just before Fleming Lake, I ran into the worst mosquitoes for this part of the trip. Fleming Lake was pleasant enough, but didn’t merit a long visit. Rae Lake I found to be much more appealing. I found a shady place to rest (bug-free, thanks to the many dragonflies at Rae). I took some photos, but ended up with none that properly reflect the appeal of this lake.
Moving on to Lower Indian Lake, I walked up the west shore, and took some photos:

Lower Indian Lake

Still on trail so far, I got to the north end. Here, I crossed the inlet and headed toward Davis Lake, climbing about 450 feet. I’ll mention now that one reason for this particular trip was to gain more experience in cross-country/off-trail trail travel, so here my education began. Ascending the low ridge, I got myself into some difficult terrain (tedious to maneuver, but not dangerous) between two streams, but eventually got it sorted out. My chosen route seemed seldom used, as evidenced by my almost stumbling into a resting doe (surprising both of us); she went bounding away, followed in a moment by her faun. Continuing, I arrived at Davis, found a nice tent site, then rinsed off a bit in the lake before dinner and turning in.

Day 3:
I’d made an unwise decision the previous night; being clear and dry, I left the rain fly off my tent. Subsequently, the night turned quite cold. I woke around 3:00 with dampness on the outside of my sleeping bag (from dew, or maybe condensation from my own body vapor). My backpack - left exposed outside the tent - still had frost on it at 7:30. I got my gear dried out, packed up and started toward Dale Lake.
Reaching the south end of Davis, I saw my tentative route started out through lots of dense brush, so I mapped out a “plan B”. Some micro-navigation issues occupied my attention, but I got to Dale Lake in good shape.

looking back (south to north) at Dale Lake

After looking about a bit, and a short rest, I proceeded on toward Disappointment Lake. This segment took about an hour and a half. It was fairly easy travel, but my trip log has several entries of “found trail” and “lost trail”. The first part has no mapped trail, but I often found bits of a “use” trail; the “mapped trail” segment that followed seems to be unmaintained, as suggested by its frequent disappearance. Arriving at Disappointment Lake, I stashed my bear can, set up my tent, and tossed most of my gear (less some essentials) inside.

With lightened pack, I did my planned side trip to Hell for Sure Lake (2.5 miles round-trip, +/- 415’ elevation gain & loss); other than my being a bit winded from the altitude, it was a nice trip with great views. The trail passes several smaller ponds ponds further down, before climbing up to the lake. I took a nice break on the northwest shore, admiring this beautiful lake and Mt Hutton, which has a classic-looking cornice along one of its ridges. Looking up (to my North) at Red Mountain, I noted the general location of HfS Pass and decided to save it for a future trip.

just arrived at Hell for Sure Lake

Hell for Sure Lake (Mt Hutton in background)

Returning to camp, I washed off a bit and filtered water, then happened upon a young man who had just finished his walk (14 miles) from Maxson TH. He was the only person I’d encountered since reaching Post Corral Creek about 52 hours earlier.

Disappointment Lake - 8:00 pm on Day 3

Disappointment Lake - 8:00 AM on Day 4

Day 4:
I got started toward Horseshoe Lake around 9:00. I modified my original plan to generally conform to kpeter’s suggested route (minus an ascent to the very top of pt 10552’, which I skirted around on its west slope). A bit further along, I found the outlet stream from Horseshoe (interspersed with some small ponds); keeping this in view proved to be a convenient “hand rail” in my route-finding. After one rest break (and lots of photo stops), I reached Horseshoe Lake.

Horseshoe Lake

Horseshoe Lake

The first photo shows the northeast shore; note the peninsula mentioned by Wandering Daisy in her report, including the “cliff barrier" (visible if you zoom in). After enjoying the views, I retraced my steps part way, then crossed over the Horseshoe outlet stream, now heading roughly southwest. Somewhere in this section the terrain transitioned to mostly large expanses of bedrock granite and exfoliated areas, where even the broken-off sheets of granite made an even, stable walking surface.

easy travel between Horseshoe and Blackrock Lakes

In short, it made for an easy stroll with some magnificent scenery. Around the point where I gained a view of Blackrock, I turned a bit and found I also had a view back to Disappointment Lake.
Minutes later, I arrived at the northeast side of Blackrock Lake. Looking up at the ridge to the southeast, I spotted an Osprey; I hoped it would drop down and fish the lake (perhaps letting me get some video ?), but instead it continued circling higher on thermals, apparently gaining altitude to head elsewhere. Along with my other photos, I captured these two images showing different moods of the lake:

Blackrock Lake

Blackrock Lake

After a relaxed lunch break, I rounded the north end of the lake and continued roughly west (and mostly downhill) toward Big Shot Lake. In about 45 minutes, I reached Big Shot Lake. Though it looked like a nice-enough lake, it was quite buggy (and weather had gone a bit gloomy), so I didn’t feel compelled to stay long, stopping mainly for photos.

Big Shot Lake

Moving on to Little Shot, it looked in some respects much like Big Shot (exact same ridge as a backdrop to the south, but with a bit of an “infinity pool” effect (and lots of trees) towards its outlet.

Little Shot Lake

About 20 minutes after reaching Little Shot, I was already at the southeast shore of Devil’s Punchbowl (yeah, these lakes are closely spaced). I stopped a bit to relax on some rocks and cool off in the water, then continued on northward. I scouted around (without success) on my way for a tent site, finally settling on a spot above the north tip of the lake; somewhat near the trail junction.

Devil’s Punchbowl - view from east shore toward the southwest

Devil’s Punchbowl - view along east shore

Going down to filter water, I found this nice sand beach:

beach at Devil’s Punchbowl

and ran into only the second person I would encounter while in the basin. He mentioned seeing four hikers (“my” four hikers seen at PC Creek on day 1) and noted they were the only people he had seen on HIS trip. I did a quick walk around part of the west shore, returned to camp for dinner, then turned in.

Devil’s Punchbowl - view from northwest shore

a final look at Devil’s Punchbowl from my exit trail on Day 5

Day 5:
“Heading for the exit” day.
I retraced my step from the previous evening’s exploration of the trail to the west, now crossing the outlet and climbing a bit, then descending again to (first) a forested section, then encountering the first of several meadows for which Meadow Brook is undoubtedly named. I liked these meadows; the time of morning was too late to spot deer, but I did encounter a large number of Clark’s Nutcrackers making their distinctive call. Moving on, I found some of these forested section on this trail somewhat oppressive (and quite buggy), but I did pass by a few impressive Red Firs, Jeffrey Pines and (a bit later) some large and old Junipers, as I made my way to the N. Fork Kings and beyond. On the segment along the Kings, a bit after Fleming Creek joined the river, I found a nice (and probably well-known) “water-slide” stretch - with these nice swimming holes:

nice swimming holes along the N Fork Kings River

If I’d had any sense, I would have camped upon reaching the Post Corral Creek trail junction a bit after 3:00. Hoping to make just a few more miles, I pressed on. I hadn’t noticed (in my “positive thinking” mode of Day 1 ) what a dense and overgrown section of Lodgepole forest this was; difficult to find even marginal campsites. So, on to Hobler Lake! Arriving exhausted, after a 14 mile day, I found a nice-enough tent site, dense mosquitoes, and a (mentally) more-dense group of jerks who stumbled around shouting, while waving flashlights in all directions until 10:00 or so.

Day 6:
I did the last 4 miles to my trailhead in under 2 hours; did a quick cleanup in the parking lot, and was driving back across Courtright Dam by 10:00. Curiously, the best wildflower displays of my trip - long, dense swaths of giant lupine, leopard lilies, and various other varieties could be seen along the roadside, off and on until I got to Shaver Lake.

Now that I've done the trip, here are some things I might have done differently:

1. Before the trip, I should have asked more questions about the "simple" things, and not just what I thought could be the difficulties. I really should have asked about camping opportunities (or lack thereof) heading west from P.C. Creek, and used this input to form a better plan.

2. Though the "continuous loop" idea is attractive, I agree more now with the folks here who promote the "base camp" concept; I might have had an easier time accomplishing my goals if (once "in" the Basin) I had simply camped at Disappointment and Devil's Punchbowl, dispensing with the (more or less) continuous circuit.

3. I'm glad I saw the "northern" lakes; Lower Indian, Davis (which is actually quite nice, I just couldn't get a great photo), and Dale. But if I was taking people with me, I'd likely skip them; exactly what W.D. told me, by the way.

Things I felt good about:

I think I got some good practice navigating off-trail (and “re-planning my plan” on the fly, when necessary. I had also hoped to do this trip with some solitude - especially since this aspect of multi-day wilderness travel is sort of a mental barrier for me. I think that seeing only two people (in my three days or so) felt a bit liberating; it was good practice in being able to relax and just enjoy being at my destinations - rather than always quickly moving on to my next destination, just for the sake of movement.

Anyway, thanks to all who provided info (and inspiration), on my “questions on Red Mountain Basin” thread, as well as in their numerous (past) reports !

[sekihiker]

Looks like you had a great time and covered a lot of territory. Thanks for the report.
In the digital age you can never take too many photos and the ones you took are great, especially the alpenglow at Disappointment Lake.
For a report of a trip I took in 2001, see: http://www.sierrahiker.com/RedMountainBasin/index.html

[tlsharb]

Looks like a great trip. Definitely one of my favorite places in the Sierra. I would agree that the southern lakes (Punchbowl, Blackrock, Horseshoe, etc) are more scenic than the northern ones. But I still like camping at Dale and taking a day to go to the Turfs and Davis. When you go to the Turf lakes, you get the sense you are in a place that very few people ever see. It is without a doubt a beautiful basin. I've never tried to find a trail up to HObler. My usual journey is to hit Hobler on the first night out of Courtright, and then just head down the hill till I hit the trail to Post 'Corral. Lots of deadfall, but not too terrible.

[SSSdave]

Now that you've toured Red Mountain Basin, you might make a future plan while your memories are still fresh to return some summer and base camp as you now can understand why that area is one of the most ideal in the Sierra to do so. The basin is a good place for a photographer to camp at a location where they might capture sunset and dusk light because it is open to the west. However the ridge behind Fleming and Rae is high enough that it will block the sun until late summer when the sun sets further south beyond the end of that ridge. Well that is except for Devils Punchbowl and Blackrock that are unblocked by mid August while the 3 highest lakes are just marginally blocked. One is also more likely to have clearer air and interesting clouds late summer. At the solstice the sun will set about 24 degrees north of due west. This is also why the best alpenglow is viewed from the west shore of Hell For Sure Lake across the lake where Le Conte Divide is generally higher unblocked by the Fleming Rae ridge.

When one base camps, selecting a camp is a more careful process because one will want somewhere that will be pleasant to be at at different times of a day, not just late afternoon as with those who spend all their days on a trail or route. Because this basin is mostly open bright granite with scattered trees, one will want to locate some trees for shade and the easy way to do so is with Google Earth. In this kind of granitoid landscape most of the scattered trees are on granite hills and slopes and not in the level soil areas because the latter areas in winter have deeper snows. Although Devils Punchbowl has more trees, much like the northern lakes there are also more mosquitoes in season while squeets will tend to avoid the higher lakes with expanses of bright barren granite. Blackrock is a good compromise with more trees, far from the trail, and an outstanding backdrop.

Another issue base camping is most will want to camp further from trails and use routes for more privacy. Most trail hikers tend to camp along trails or beside named lakes versus no name lakes because they expect a body of water without a name wasn't named because it was not as interesting, however some of the most lovely places are such waters. The boomerang shaped lake at 10480+ se of Disappointment is one such place with a pretty meadow fringe and a sandy shore one can see with GE plus a small grove of pines for tent shade. Also doing so at a location more central to where one might be day hiking has value. For this basin, I might allow 6 or 7 days to semi base camp where I plan for 2 camps at which I spend 2 days each.

IMO the the best day hike would be up to HFS Pass and then up to the top of Red Mountain that I would time being at the top about 5pm so the big peaks to the east are in better light. One can even see Mt Goddard and Martha Lake from the top. The best morning hike is Mt Hutton where one looks down at all the lakes.

[kpeter]

Your trip report brought back a lot of memories from my trip last summer. I rested a while on that very beach you featured at Devil's Punchbowl! So glad you got to sample this region.

[grampy]

... The boomerang shaped lake at 10480+ se of Disappointment is one such place with a pretty meadow fringe and a sandy shore one can see with GE plus a small grove of pines for tent shade ...

IMO the the best day hike would be up to HFS Pass and then up to the top of Red Mountain that I would time being at the top about 5pm so the big peaks to the east are in better light. One can even see Mt Goddard and Martha Lake from the top. The best morning hike is Mt Hutton where one looks down at all the lakes.

Dave -
my originally-conceived route to Horseshoe would have taken me right past your “boomerang-shaped” lake; then I changed my plan that morning to follow the route I took, thinking it likely a bit easier. If I’d had more confidence in my abilities, I’d have stuck with my plan to stop by at your suggested lake. Live and learn.
Your photography tips are appreciated; maybe I’ll return someday with better photo skills (and an actual camera with which to use them, instead of my phone) so that your tips can be put to good use. Thank you.

[michaelzim]

Thanks much for the trip report and great photos = strong memories of doing the almost identical trip with my daughter in August 2018. We however, did/do the "base camp" concept as once I passed 60 ten years ago, became less enamoured with long days on the trail and a heavy pack. Made Disappointment our home for four days, and so nice not to have to break-and-make camp daily.

Did manage to follow in your "ooooops" footsteps though and try for those extra few miles on the way back. Also did not stop and make last night's camp at the Kings River - but pushed way too far all the way to Hobler as was no water in upper Post Corral Creek. Exhausted was an understatement! Thank goodness had no jerks with flashlights keeping us awake though. So yes...I agree, that stopping early and making camp on that beautiful stretch of river is far preferable, as Hobler is kind of dusty, overused, dark too - to me anyhow.

Great feedback too from other HST members! This is such a wonderful and helpful site for that - Thank you!

Michaelzim

[jrad]

Your excellent photography and simple commentary - most helpful. Thanks!

[Love the Sierra]

Thanks so much for the TR and the photos! I wanted to do this trip a couple of years ago but 1) the mosquitos were really too much to bear so we cut it short and 2) my dog, who had been 6 mo old at the time,was really feeling fatigued after several days on the trail and I didn't want her to have a bad experience on her first trip.
Now I have incentive to get back there. SIGH it would have to be late summer after the skeeters have died down but then there are the fires...

[grampy]

@jrad and @Love the Sierra -
Thanks ! I’m glad you enjoyed it.