R03/R04 TR: Little Lakes Valley to Pioneer Basin 6/30-7/3 2020

[Harlen]

My partners Bearzy, Frank and I turned our misfortune into a small adventure, retrieving our ton of unused winter supplies from the Tuolumne Meadows Ski Hut storage, and then backpacking off to Pioneer Basin.  With our Yosemite backcountry skiing plans shut down after just one December ski trip, we had over 30 lbs. of stuff to collect.  We always make time for a backpacking trip when we drop off, and later recover our winter stash.  This time I thought to return to an old favorite-- Pioneer Basin, the former scene of great battles with the mosquito hordes, and stunning ridge-top views of magical McGee Canyon and the Silver Divide.

My memory was that this trip beginning in Little Lakes Valley (LLV), heading over Mono Pass, and down into Mono Creek went from beauty to beauty, with no long haul preceding the wonders, and so it was.  Right out of the gate  (Mosquito Flat TH., ~20 minutes south of Mammoth Lakes on Hwy 395) you are gazing up at a snowy wall of alpine giants from Bear Creek Spire to Mount Abbot, and the great cliffs over Ruby Lake.  We all had a great time, especially Bearzy, for this was a trip full of lake swimming and meadow runs. I'll apologise in advance to any who think a red dog mars the mountain scenery.  Bearzy is in many of the following images.

This short trip of 4 days and 3 nights began on June 30, and ended on the 3rd of July.

 In the first hour of the first day you are surrounded by lakes and peaks of Rock Creek, with Bear Creek Spire dominating the skyline. 

 Mt. Morgan is the giant to the east of the LLV.  It is 13,748 ft.

 We camped near the outlet stream of Ruby Lake and explored the lake and meadowlands.

 

 Sunrise on the mountain walls.

Gear shot: New lightweight trail shoes- La Sportiva "Lycan", only 1.5 lbs together, and they worked great.  Ancient Kelty frame pack for the hell of it, and it worked less well-- squeaking and poking me in the back.  2 ridge-rests, and 1 Prolite pad suit me and Bearzy, with the big down z-bag used as a quilt.  You'll also see a quasi-legal "Ursack," and a Big Agnes "Fly Creek" tent.  My pack still weighed 28 lbs. Oh well?!

On the morning climb up to the pass, Mt. Abbot emerges in the saddle south of Ruby Lake.

The 12045' Mono Pass is dead easy, and at just 2.5 miles from the 10,000' TH, it must be about the shortest eastside crossing of the Main Divide, unless the various crossings around the top of Lee Vining Creek are counted?  As you climb, the view back south at the peaks becomes steadily more breathtaking; and north of the pass you enter a high alpine desert landscape, with a disappearing creek that leads to a desolate and lovely lake.

Our fearless leader nearing Mono Pass.

There was an extensive bloom of tiny yellow flowers-- Draba of the mustard family. 

Stark and startlingly beautiful Summit Lake.

We spent a couple of hours there, practicing one of my favorite sports-- swimming the dog.

[Harlen]

Hard to leave but we still had 5 miles to get to the upper Pioneer Basin Lakes.

  Looking back, we saw a horse packer group coming our way.  We shot off in hopes of avoiding fresh pisse de cheval.

The peaks of Silver Divide begin to show in the distance-- Red and White, Red Slate, and Mt. Baldwin.  The broad Pioneer Basin spreads out before them, with a few of its big lakes just visible-- click image twice to enlarge.  

Nearby are the granite mountains of Mono Divide, and the great glacial troughs called "The Recesses."

Up in Pioneer Basin.

 Looking back south from Pioneer Basin, with a view of the Mono Pass route from where we've just come marked with the red arrow. Mono Creek is hidden in between.

The afternoon light shines on Mono Divide.

Some highlights of a trip to Pioneer Basin are wandering around in the upper basin, and hiking along the ridge to get a look over at the intensely colorful McGee Canyon and the Silver Divide.  The following images are from those places:

[Harlen]

McGee Canyon-- Red Slate Peak to Mt. Morrison.

In this shot you can just make out the fascinating route to McGee Pass, just south of Red Slate Peak.  I've drawn in a blue line just under the trail, pointing around the corner into the hidden upper canyon.  A blue circle lies on Corridor Pass, connecting Convict Creek with McGee Creek.

Back in our campsite lake to cool Bear off.

On our way back we arrived at Golden Lake in time for moonrise...

and sunset.

We enjoyed Golden Lake for its solitude, scenery, flowers, and the ongoing luck with mosquitos.

We even met a nice young family, with a 3 year old boy and a dog friend for Bearzy. Todd, the local wildlife biologist, remembered our meeting once as I skied out over Alpine Col, and he was skiing in. He combines work and pleasure- collecting red fox scat, and footage from the motion-sensitive cameras they place on high ridges/travel routes. Great animal stories and knowledge- great to see him with his family this time.

[Harlen]

 Far side of Golden Lake, which can also be reached by a shortcut, crossing via Halfmoon Pass, a short backcountry pass coming from the Rock Creek side.

 Golden Lake best connects back to the main trail right at Summit Lake.  It's a great little side trip, which takes you off the crowded horse trail.

Another small flower bloom-- Ivesia and Aster.

Western wallflower.

The lupine were all around, and sometimes in full bloom.

Soon we reached Summit Lake again.

 Bearzy in the lake, and if you look to the left, you'll see some folks with a stand-up paddle board?

Never saw the paddleboard being used, but Bearzy found the rare stick, and was right back in!

Back down from Mono Pass into the beauty of LLV.

 It was great to get back into the Sierra with my friends here--Frank and Bearzy.  We did see quite a lot of hikers, especially day hikers in LLV, but all were nice, and most meetings briefer than ever due to Covid concern.  On the other hand, we were happily surprised to hike with just a laughable amount of the dreaded mossies. Good luck out there

[The Other Tom]

Nice report, thanks for posting. I have a picture similar to your first one (near ruby Lake looking up the valley) hanging in my den. Brought back memories. Good times!

[austex]

Ian, Thanks for the TR. I know Pioneer can be mozzy hell! Glad it was bearable. Love Summit Lake as Bearzy does, but for different reasons. (I won't swim). I've been over Half Moon to Golden from the RCL Corrals/Hilton TH as a day trip I don't think I could haul a pack up it. Soooo many duks (everyone has an opinion on the best route) on the E side makes route finding a bit of a challenge. I hope to be up there in a month. Cheers to you and Bearzy-Richard

[Harlen]

awhile back gary c wrote about getting to Golden Lake:

Maybe I'll do it as a day hike over the pass from Rock Creek Lake sometime.

and now austex write:

I've been over Half Moon to Golden from the RCL Corrals/Hilton TH as a day trip

We must be talking about the same pass; I wonder what the name of that tricky little crossing is-- I may be wrong calling it "Mosquito Pass." "Halfmoon Pass" does sound familiar. I had no luck with our map?

[austex]

If you follow the "poop trail" out of the pack station towards Mono Pass, there's a wood sign (I don't know where my picture of it is) of a yellow crescent moon pointing to the use trail to the pass from the junction.
Here's Bob Burd's rendition
https://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_report ... uth_1.html

"After taking our group photo we headed through the pack station in search of the use trail heading up towards Half Moon Pass, a shortcut between Rock Creek and Mono Creek basins. Kristine was in front, deftly finding the turnoff behind the pack station without missing a step. When I asked her how she found it so confidently, she admitted having checked it out the day prior since she was in the area. Smart AND fast, this one. The excess water in the range this year meant that part of the trail was under water and through swamp and it eventually had to be abandoned for other ways around, not that big of a problem since cross-country travel is not too difficult here. There were 8-9 folks in the lead group as we approached the base of the pass. We correctly pointed out the right notch for the class 2/3 pass and then made our way up, taking about an hour from the start to go over the Sierra Crest here. The west side of the pass is easier class 2, descending a widening talus gully down towards Golden Lake."

[Harlen]

Thanks Richard for setting me straight. I'll make the change, improving the TR. Cheers, Ian.
*That "smart and fast Kristine" in Burd's report sounds like a familiar animal-- Hey gazelle.

[ryanerb]

Great trip report, thank you for sharing!