Our plan was to do the popular loop into Bear Lakes Basin from the east clockwise, veering off from the trail for a day or so into the French lakes. My son and I got a fairly early start Sunday morning at the pack station trailhead and made it up to camp near the little lake between the trail junction and Pine Creek Pass. The wind was already fairly strong as we were making camp and by the next morning it was considerably worse. I didn't bring an anemometer so I can't confirm the NWS point forecast we saw just before we left of 40-50 MPH winds with 75 MPH gusts, but it was howling. Rather than head up into the more exposed French lakes area we decided to take a layover day and await developments. Instead we day hiked up to the pretty Chalfant Lakes which we probably would have bypassed otherwise. The wind was more manageable during the day before picking up again in the evening. We were glad not to have to set up camp in the gale.
- Chalfant Lakes
Fortunately by the next morning the wind had mostly died down so we continued on trail to Merriam Lake, saving the French lakes for another trip. It was sunny and much warmer when we arrived early afternoon so we decided to take it easy and get cleaned up a bit.
- Beach day at Merriam
- We saw Mt Humphreys often over the next few days
The weather the next morning continued to be relatively calm and warm, so after hiking a half mile or so we dropped our packs and climbed up to the top of Royce Peak. The views were excellent:
- Humphreys, Seven Gables, Feather and more. Merriam in the left foreground
- Can never get enough of Humphreys. Some of the French lakes in the middle ground.
- Beautiful Seven Gables. Feather Pass, our afternoon destination, is on the far right.
We made it over Feather Pass without incident and set up camp at Bearpaw Lake. It started getting cold and a little windy again.
- Entering the basin.
The next morning was extremely cold. Given how quickly our leftover coffee water refroze in the pot, I think it might have been the coldest "summer" morning I have ever spent in the Sierra. My son was none too pleased.
- Not happy
Fortunately, we had brought a lot of warm clothes with us. I did wish my gloves were a bit thicker, however. We managed to break camp and get moving and made the traverse from Dancing Bear to Italy Pass as the weather gradually warmed.
- Humphreys from Italy Pass, this time with a dusting of snow. We were dusted ourselves in Granite Park an hour later.
I would have liked to spend more time in Granite Park, but my son was insistent that we get someplace warmer, so down we hiked to Honeymoon Lake.
- Happier
The next morning we finished the descent to the trailhead. As we passed everyone heading up in t-shirts and shorts, we kept thinking "wonder if they know what they are getting into". But on the other hand maybe it will be warm and pleasant their whole trip. I guess this time of year you're never sure exactly what kind of weather you're going to get.
