The snow conditions this year were so good they extended into the middle of July enabling me to summit the day I hit “Double Nickels”.
The snow in the gulch was about at “June” conditions.
I found a dry spot on the moraine at Helen Lake.
There had been quite a bit of rock fall in Avalanche Gulch this spring.
I had a hard time sleeping because of the wind. Why try to sleep when you could be climbing? I departed at about 3 AM. It took me about 4 hours to reach Red Banks.
Misery Hill was completely devoid of snow.
But there was still A LOT of snow on the mountain.
…Even some on the summit.
This time I remembered to bring my rain pants and the snow conditions were such that I was able to glissade from Red Banks all the way down to Helen Lake in a matter of minutes. This is the one time I really wish I had a Go Pro.
One final note…I always ask for people to participate in these adventures with me. But as many of know… Everybody SAYS they want to climb. Just like my friend John. When it came time for the climb he wanted to recover from some little toy peddling event held in the Sierra.



Thanks for reading my report.
-Russ