High Sierra Topix

TITLE: Mount Lyell

GENERAL OVERVIEW: The highest peak in Yosemite National Park, Mt. Lyell is located at it's southeastern border. Lyell Glacier is the second largest glacier in the High Sierra. This peak is frequently climbed, although a considerable distance from the nearest trailhead. There are great views of both the Ritter Range and Kuna Crest from it's summit.

CLASS/DIFFICULTY: From Lyell Glacier (the most popular route), Class 3. Class 3-4 from Lyell-Maclure Col. The Southwest Ridge and South Face are Class 4. The West Face is Class 5. The East Arete is Class 4.

LOCATION: Yosemite National Park (Yosemite Wilderness).

ELEVATION: 13,114 ft.

USGS TOPO MAP (7.5'): HST Map

ROUTE DESCRIPTION: The most commonly used routes (Lyell Glacier and East Arete) are approached by a cross-country route (2.5mi.) at the head of Lyell Canyon, below Donahue Pass, after an approach from either Rush Creek or Tuolumne Meadows trailheads. From the Rush Creek trailhead, it's 14.1 miles to the turnoff from the main trail (JMT/PCT). Using the Lyell Canyon approach, it's 13.2 miles from Tuolumne Meadows to the turnoff.

PHOTOS:

Mt. Lyell from just below Donahue Pass


The summit from the base of Lyell Glacier


The Class 3 'Lyell Glacier' route (to right side of the bergschrund) from the upper part the glacier.


The summit block seen from the summit plateau


Mt. Maclure from the summit block of Mt. Lyell

Art,

Thanks for posting this information. I climbed this peak back in the 80s but I didn't quite make the summit. I hiked in to the Lyle Fork of the Merced. It took two days to get there. I bagged Ansel Adams the day before.

The southern approach is a pretty easy class 2 scramble until you get just below the summit, then it turns technical. I was solo so I chickened out.

I wish I would have thought to climb over the pass and complete the climb from the north, but I was young and even dumber than I am now.

Thanks again for the great informative post!

-Russ