High Sierra Topix

This trip report covers a solo hike of what seems to be an increasingly popular loop, starting at Pine Creek, entering Bear Lakes via Italy Pass/Dancing Bear Pass), and returning via BeaRoyce Pass across 7 days in early September, 2024.

Day 0 - Fly from Dallas into Reno, drive 395 to Independence

My recent trips entering the east side of the Sierras began by flying from Dallas into Las Vegas and driving through either Death Valley or north by Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest. To change things up, I flew into Reno, Nevada this time with the intention of enjoying the 395 drive and seeing a section of the Sierras that I have yet to visit. After landing in Reno and picking up the rental car, I immediately stopped by the REI conveniently located right outside the airport for fuel and started driving toward Independence.

The original goal for my annual trip to the Sierra was to enjoy the Upper Kern via Shepherd Pass over 7 days. Unfortunately, the Coffeepot fire would play spoiler this year. Apparently even in average snow years, wildfire is still a risk in August! I had been monitoring the daily fire updates for a week or two by this point and was concerned primarily about air quality. Shepherd Pass was going to be difficult enough coming from sea level without the added difficulty of smoke in the air. I stopped by the Mono Basin Visitor Center to speak with rangers there. I decided to play it safe and had them print out my Plan B permit for Bear Lakes.

After arriving in Independence and smelling smoke, I made the call to visit Bear Lakes.

Day 1 - Pine Creek TH to Granite Park
8.59 miles - 4,409 ft gain
Starting elevation - 7400 ft
Ending elevation - 11,400 ft

I started the day at dawn after a fitful night's sleep. After smelling smoke outside and once again checking the air quality forecast, I packed up and headed north to through Bishop to the impressive Pine Creek Canyon. I had read several trip reports and had mapped out this itinerary on Caltopo in the past few months, but there was definitely a sense of adventure with this route as it wasn't fresh in my memory. I first recalled an important piece of information - the trail began after walking through the stable. Feeling great already about finding the trail, I set off for the climb up the canyon. Thankfully, most of the climb by the old Tungsten Mine and up to Honeymoon Lake was in the shade. I could easily believe that this would be quite warm during the afternoon and peak summer hours. I made great time to lunch break in a large camping area between Pine Lake and Upper Pine Lake.

My original goal was Honeymoon Lake (10.4k) for acclimation, pacing, and tree line sheltering with the new tarp (first backpacking trip with a tarp), but ambitiously decided to continue to Granite Park. I had, after all, expected 5.2k elevation gain via Shepherd Pass! Unfortunately, I really started to slow down and feel the altitude shortly after Honeymoon Lake. The extra push to Granite Park didn’t start to bear fruit until arriving at Lake 11,312 when trees became more sparse and views opened up. Frustrating up/down at the end of the day led to U-shaped lake at 11,355 ft where a nice established campsite was just too tempting. A cluster of trees partially blocked SW winds, making it ideal for pitching the tarp in open A-frame configuration. The wind was partially blocked so no difficulty in erecting tarp and anchoring well in the soil. Nice views over a low point in the crest allowed for impressive views of Feather and Royce peak.

I tried fishing Lake 11.3k and did have a bite or two, but the fish easily escaped my rookie attempts.
Day 2 - Exploring Chalfant Lakes
7.15 miles - 1484 ft gain/loss

My typical backpacking trip involves the daily routine of packing up all my gear, moving locations, and re-establishing camp elsewhere. I've been experimenting more recently with a different travel approach where I relocate to interesting areas every-other day and spend the rest of the time exploring and wandering the area with a lighter day pack. To offset the aggressive vertical gain from yesterday and hopefully acclimate a bit more, I chose a restful day exploring Chalfant Lakes immediately to the north of Granite Park. It did not disappoint.

As usual, I slept fitfully on the first night at altitude. This wasn't a surprise since I was at 11.4k feet! My original plan for the day was based on starting from Honeymoon Lake and entering the Chalfant Lakes basin from the east. I would then move up the basin, fishing the lakes, until reaching the last tarn where I would then head southwest to cross into Granite Park and descend through Granite Park to Honeymoon Lake (i.e., a counter-clockwise loop). I instead decided to reverse this loop and start with a slight ascent into Granite Park and drop into Chalfant Lakes from my higher camp. A well-established use trail led me up to Granite Park where I then moved cross-country north and descended into Chalfant Lakes. The descent was a little loose in spots, but not terribly difficult. I spent the majority of the morning fishing and wandering east through the Chalfant Lakes. I was successful fishing the upper lakes, but nothing larger than 6 inch cutthroat trout. There was a surprisingly large bounder field at the exit of the Chalfant Lakes basin followed by easily country south to meet the trail back to camp. I tried taking a nap in the afternoon, but the thin material of the Slingfin tarp didn't shade me much. I took an evening stroll around Lk 11,434, but didn't have any luck with fishing.

Day 3 - Italy Pass and Bear Lakes

8.59 miles - 2726’ gain, 2980’ loss
Starting elevation - 11,400 ft
Ending elevation - 11,146 ft

Big day as I was to cross over 2 passes (Italy Pass and Dancing Bear Pass). After packing up and ascending the same trail as yesterday, this time with a pack, I turned farther west and enjoyed more of the alpine scenery. I glanced over my left shoulder several times at Granite Bear Pass - its lingering snow and seemingly loose rock. No thanks! I had heard this was a shortcut directly into Bear Lakes Basin/Black Bear Lake.

After a brief visit to collect water at the uppermost lake (Lk 11,834), I was off to search for Italy Pass. The map shows this as a primitive trail, but that is being generous. This “trail” was more of a route, connecting cairns with slightly more eroded paths together. I enjoyed this pick-your-own adventure as it set the mood for the next few days where I not see any established trail. The top portion of Italy pass was navigating back and forth along benches, slowing gaining altitude on each switchback. I finally made it to the top (northern part of the saddle). I attempted Mount Julius Caesar, but gave up halfway due to discomfort with all of the large boulders.

In traversing the basin above Jumble Lake, I picked my own way, trying to maintain elevation as much as possible. Boulder fields and rock outcroppings pushed me lower to about 12k where I had to make a decision regarding the snowfield guarding Dancing Bear Pass - go the right or left. Going left would allow for preserving more elevation at the expense of what I estimated as a longer route with more challenging, energy-intensive terrain. I instead chose to drop to the snow-fed creek at 12k (freshest tasting water ever) and regain the elevation on the right (north) side of the snow field. I briefly tested the snow field, and sure enough, it was a little mushy in the afternoon, giving some perhaps false confidence that it could be ascended. I chose instead to follow the boulders on the right side and was quickly at what was a fairly long passageway between Pt 12749 (NW) and Pt 12,680 (SE). I was impressed by the difference in terrain of these mountains - the SE peak (facing NW) had more boulders/rocks while the NE peak (facing SW) was smoother and more polished. Amazing the impact of the sun and thaw cycles on the topography.

After lunch, I made my way down from Dancing Bear Pass to the impressively large and clear-watered Black Bear Lake. I found the first of several sand “beaches” along the west shore and footprints of unidentified animals. I also gazed due east toward Granite Bear Pass…it was a walk in the park on this side!

I continued my descent to Big Bear Lake, following the creek exiting the lake on the SW corner. My original plan was to find a campsite around the tarn SE of Big Bear Lake. Unfortunately, I found it dried up in an average snow year. After stopping briefly at Ursa Lake for some water, I decided to seek lower elevation for camping at Lee Lake. Hiking around the Bear Lakes area was interesting due to wide "corridors" bounded by cliffs. This network, once I figured it out, enabled some quick travel among the lakes. One of these corridors led me to south to my very scenic but rather exposed campsite east of Vee Lake. I gave myself bonus points for following Leave No Trace because the lake was .14 miles away and 100' below the campsite! Thankfully, I would be blessed with little wind and no storms the entire week.

Day 4 - Exploring Bear Lakes

7.35 miles - 1474 ft gain/loss

Today would be an exploration day with no heavy pack and just wandering from lake-to-lake. I knew I wasn't going to visit all of the Bear Lakes, but I was ok with that. I started the day going to Den Lake, where after a brief uphill climb, made it to crystal clear waters. The water was so clear my brain was playing tricks on me regarding its depth. The picture from the east shore was magnificent as it gave an infinity pool/reflect effect of Seven Gables. No signs of fish. I descended to Claw and Tooth Lake. Plenty of fish in Tooth Lake, but they easily outsmarted me. Gruff lakes had a unique teal/turquoise color and was well worth the detour. Claw Lake also had some fish, but being frustrated by the lack of success at Tooth Lake, continued on along the SE bay of Veek Lake and the peninsula. I returned to camp for lunch, hunkering behind a rock for shade.

The afternoon goal became one of purpose and exploration, leaving the fly rod behind. I first went along north shore of Vee Lake, but didn’t make it far due to stepping both feet up to my ankles in mud. Definitely frustrating in the moment, but quickly became a wonderful opportunity to pause and wash the shoes at a granite slab slipping into Vee Lake. Another advantage to the Hokas/trail runners without Gore-Tex is that they dry out incredibly quickly, especially when moving. Scenic viewpoint to the west of Vee Lake outlet allowed for impressive views into the basin and Seven Gables. I also encountered the only 2 people in Bear Lakes Basin. I always appreciate meeting kindred people out in the wilderness and they were generous in letting me try their Tenkara rod. They also made a very convincing case for starting from the west side for acclimation.

I continued my wandering by making my way to Little Bear Lake. Little Bear and Big Bear both had similar feels, just different sizes. Each lake had its own character, but similar look and feel of the water. I returned to Big Bear Lake and continued my loop. The return to camp was more efficient as I found a different path through the corridors.

Day 5 - Exploring Seven Gables Lakes
8.09 miles - 1284 ft gain/loss

Another day with a relaxed itinerary and a day pack. After scoping Seven Gables Lakes from the high-point SW of Vee Lakes yesterday, I was excited to experience the more remote Seven Gables Basin and intimate views of Seven Gables. I started the wandering by fishing the NE bay of Vee Lake again and immediately started the day with success. I casually spent 1.5 hours casually walking along the north short of Vee Lake before finally discovering some motivation and quickly descending to Lk 10947 - the primary target for the day. First attempts fishing on the north section of Lk 10947 were unsuccessful. I continued along east shore to a very large beautiful beach on the south shore where I enjoyed landing several smaller golden trout. This was the highlight of the trip for me. I eventually gave the fish a break and hiked further up the basin, visiting the smaller lakes and snow patches feeding them. Lots of boulder hopping and talus avoidance, but eventually made it to the snow field feeding the intermittent stream just below Stough Pass. I scoped both Stough and Gemini Lake Passes but decided against pursuing either. Too much work! Gemini Lake would have been neat to see since I could at least have seen the East Pinnacles Creek area. I returned to Lk 10947, enjoyed some lunch in a sliver of shade behind a large rock, and proceeded to catch a few more fish. After a purposefully unpurposeful early afternoon, I regrettably left Lk 10947 behind and explored Stub Lake. Very nice close-up views of Seven Gables from this lake. I descended a large boulder field to to the lake north at 10.7k feet (nothing special, did notice a waterfall on south shore from not-so-intermittent stream). I ascended a steep use-trail to 11.2k Vee Lake outlet and returned to camp a little tired from the last climb, but fulfilled from a day of exploring. Fishing does eat up time, but gives the body needed rest and idle time.

Day 6 - Royce Lakes and Birchim Lake

7.87 miles - 2137’ gain, 2999’ loss
Starting elevation - 11,146’
Ending elevation - 10,284’

I began my 2-day exit today. Early start at dawn as I broke my second camp in preparation for crossing the Sierra Crest and exiting the area. Vee Lake was so peaceful and calm with no wind before the sun even struck the top of the peaks. Dawn has become my favorite time of day. I took the proven shortcut north to almost Little Bear Lake, took a right at the tarn to Ursa Lake and on to Bearpaw Lake for water. Met a trio hiking to Feather Pass on the Sierra High Route. I hope to do SHR one day. I enjoyed pleasant hiking on soft sand east of Bearpaw lake. A short climb to 11.7k gave me a chance to catch my breath and study terrain. Feather Pass looked quite doable and was obvious. I had just read from Roper’s high route (love having electronic copy of Secor/Roper on phone) that Feather Pass is very doable except for a steep short section on north side of pass. I instead opted for the more adventurous and less well understood BeaRoyce Pass to the NW of Feather peak. Secor does not mention this path in his guide, but I had read a couple of trip reports about it on this site. The pass ended up not being visible to me until I was almost at the top! The saddle between Pk 12918 and Feather Peak is broken by a “feather” of impressive rock spire (?). On faith, I made the assumption that the pass consisted of a chute hidden behind (SE) of this spire, as evidenced by a sandy outlay or eroded rock/sand. I climbed up as far as I could on relatively stable soil before traversing over to the chute. The traverse and assent of the chute proved to be arduous due to the 2 steps forward, 1 step backward pattern. The soil was a mixture of sand and gravel and made me think I was on the beach, just at a 35% incline! The hiking poles were instrumental in preserving hard-earned forward and upward progress! Never felt dangerous, but it was definitely a workout.

The “pass” was indeed a chute that was well hidden on the saddle. It was oriented from SW to NE, making it difficult to see from my shallow approach angle (W). The descent was much more enjoyable and involved sliding down/skiing the sandy slope with much of the gravel following me. Fastest and most comfortable descent ever! This eventually gave way to sturdier footing after turning E/SE to follow the inlet creek to the first Royce lake. Those lakes are large! I tediously followed the south shore of the first lake and on to the NW shore of second lake (Lk 11725). Boulder hoping gave way to gentle granite slabs that I followed to Golden Lake for a sheltered lunch. Perfect timing as clouds were starting to build and I was grateful to finally have some meaningful tree cover to return to. I continued to Upper Pine Lake and then tried to follow 10.3k contour to Birchim Lake, my campsite destination for the night. Several granite cliffs prevented a level traverse of the countour, but I eventually arrived. Birchim Lake was an odd lake with a manmade dam on the east side. I used the established campground on the NE side of the lake, cooked some dinner, and enjoyed some surprisingly good fishing. Birchim Lake was definitely not the most scenic, but did provide another evening of solitide that would not have been possible at Honeymoon or Pine Lake.

Day 7 - Exit to Pine Creek TH
5.31 miles - 150’ gain, 3082’ loss
Starting elevation - 10,284’
Ending elevation - 7,352’

I awoke before dawn once again with a strong feeling of accomplishment, having enjoyed the exploration, fishing, and more relaxed pace than my typical trip. I also just finished listening to an audiobook - The Indifferent Stars Above - which is about the Donner Party's ill-fated attempt to cross the Sierras in winter. A very location-appropriate book to listen to! I did some math and realized that if I made a speedy exit, I could make it to Truckee Lake just west of Reno, site of the Donnor Party's winter camp, and experience a little bit of the memorial before heading back. So I packed up after a short breakfast, bushwhacked down the creek to Pine Lake, and made excellent time descending the 3K feet to the trailhead, once again in the cool morning shade of the canyon. I made several notes to myself to research the history of this area (Brownstone mine, Tungsten mill, Mt Tom etc.) on my way down. I departed the trailhead and only stopped for a well-deserved meal at Mammoth Lake Brewery for a burger and excellent root beer. I ultimately made it to the Donner museum with 20 minutes to spare and even visited the actual Donner Pass. The pass wasn't that that impressive relative to Italy Pass or BeaRoyce, but when considering winter conditions and moving wagons and a family up it, I realized and respected the challenge and determination of the settlers.

Takeaways
53 miles
27.3k total vertical

- Fishing is a great way to slow down the pace of a trip, even if the fish are mostly clever.
- Reno was a nice alternative airport, with convenient access to a Costco/REI for fuel and a scenic drive to the eastern trailheads. Any stop recommendations along 395 for future trips?
- Upper Kern would have been a much more challenging trip due to the increased mileage and vertical required to overcome Shepherd's Pass.
- Xcountry travel was significantly easier in Bear Lakes compared with my previous trip to the Ionian Basin. Probably an obvious observation to most here....
- Tarp/bivy for the win!

nice trip!

yes, it does seem like this is becoming a popular loop -- i posted a very similar report from sept 2024 just a few weeks ago.

this summer i hope to go over bearoyce -- looks like an interesting one. sounds like getting around the lakes may be more annoying than the pass itself!