High Sierra Topix

This trip was planned as a loop from Bear Diversion, but thinking over the remoteness of the trailhead, horrible road and the unreliability of my car I cancelled and got a permit from Pine Creek, where it would not cost an arm and leg if my car did not start when I returned to the trailhead. I hoped to return via Seven Gables Pass and West Turret Lakes, then drop to Hutchings Meadow and out via Pine Creek Pass. Regarding the snow still on Seven Gables Pass and the unsettled weather, instead I exited via Merriam Lake and Royce Lakes which shortened the route considerably. I only averaged 4.5 miles per day!

I hate to car-camp but realized I really needed an early start to avoid heat, so drove down the afternoon before. As I was dropping down from Tom’s Place, the skies let loose and the downpour was so heavy I had to pull to the side of the road until the storm passed. Fortunately there are numerous free dispersed campsites on Pine Creek just before the trailhead. I had a nice visit with a gal camped next to me, who was originally from Bishop but now was two years in on an extended road trip with her little teardrop trailer. Being the same age we hit it off great and reminisced over our crazy younger years. My only mistake was being too lazy to set up my tent, instead getting a poor night’s sleep in the backseat of my car.

Day1. 7/23: Pine Creek TH to Honeymoon Lake
(5.1 miles, 6.1 hours, 3145 feet elevation gain, 170 feet loss)

I was up at dawn and after packing up drove the mile to the trailhead and left at about 6:30 AM. Given the previous day’s downpour I was expecting the same and wanted to be in my tent if it happened. I steadily slogged up the trail. With 9 days food my pack was heavy. There were a few others going up and down the trail but it was really quite empty. The stock crossing was easily waded and the cool water felt great on my feet. Pine Lake was my “must get to” destination.

It was early enough to continue to Upper Pine Lake where I had not camped before. Unfortunately there were lots of tents already set up so the new goal was Honeymoon Lake. A large group was just ahead of me at the crossing. They stayed on the trail and I headed off-trail toward the outlet of Honeymoon Lake. I hoped to get a secluded campsite below the lake but all had too much of a slope. I ended up at the last established campsite next to the outlet. A bit later the folks I met earlier set up nearby. It was hot and I was tired so took a nap in the tent. It spit rain at 1:45PM. When it cleared I walked on the bench above the lake, discovering that it was actually quite crowded! Due to lack of sleep the night before, I retired shortly after dinner. Since I made it farther than expected, the mileage and elevation gain would be reasonable to reach Big Bear Lake the next day. Mother Nature had other plans!





Day2. 7/24: Honeymoon Lake to Granite Park Lake at 11675
(2.7 miles, 3.3 hours, 1385 feet elevation gain/ 150 feet loss)

Since I had come into Honeymoon Lake cross-country to the outlet and did not carefully look at my map, I took the wrong use-trail, missed the obvious trail sign and thought the Pine Creek Pass trail junction was the Granite Park junction. I started up the trail, soon realizing that I was going the wrong direction. I returned to Honeymoon Lake and saw the sign then had to literally go around a tent set up right on the trail. After dropping to Honeymoon Lake the trail went up onto rock slabs where I followed rogue cairns, again having to backtrack to the proper exit from the rock slabs. By now I had wasted nearly half an hour. Finally the trail became easy to follow. At the crossing I simply waded even though there was a skinny log or rocks that long-legged hikers could hop across.

I stopped for a rest at a pond at about 11,000 feet. The trail seemed to stop so I scouted and found that it crossed the pond inlet. Shortly I met a nice woman; we “leap-frogged” for a while. I warned her not to necessarily follow me given all my mistakes so far this day! When I said I was going to the HST meet-up she mentioned that she was a “lurker”. Finally she got ahead of me while I ate lunch.

I had never been to the lower grassy meadows of Granite Park when it was not a bog full of mosquitoes. This time it was still lush green but relatively dry and no mosquitoes! After the last rise I came to the creek crossing at 11600 feet elevation where the amazing peaks and towers dominated the skyline above another beautiful lush meadow. Clouds were building. I decided that even if I could get over Italy Pass I doubt I could get over Dancing Bear Pass before the storm. I found a great campsite at the little pond below the large lake at 11675. I had caught nice fish at the Lake before, so after setting up on one of the many coarse sand sites well above the water level, I took off uphill to fish. I got a few nibbles, then a strike but lost the fish as I was bringing it in. The skies were really getting black so I quickly went back to the tent. I watched a group continuing to Italy Pass. There is another large lake at 11835 that they could stop at, but it is below the trail. Later I saw them staying high and continuing. The gal I met earlier was also heading for Italy pass, but she was probably close to or over the pass by now. She was then dropping to Italy Lake, so would likely be fine.

Soon the skies let loose. Downpour of rain, hail that covered the ground, and lightning! Flash, then within a second a boom. I swear there was nearly one strike per minute as the storm continued from 2:15PM to 4:30PM.! The drainage at my site was great so other than being bored and a bit apprehensive, I was safe. It was quite warm in spite of the storm, so I did not take my sleeping bag out until I was sure the storm was over. The rest of the late afternoon was very windy with spits of rain off and on. I awkwardly cooked in a rock corner out of the wind, choosing a quick meal of couscous with miso soup.

Day3. 7/25: Granite Park Lake 11675 to Big Bear Lake + fishing/day-hiking
(3.9 miles, 4.9 hours, 1150 feet gain/ 1365 feet loss, excluding day-hikes)

Basically there is no trail to Italy Pass. It is a route with cairns including some rogue ones. It really did not matter because there are many ways go. Fortunately I ran into a faint trail as I neared the cliffy upper couple of hundred feet. Still I missed the switchback and ended up at a cliff, so returned south and ran into the trail leading to the pass. Fortunately the weather held. I had previously contoured high on the traverse from Italy Pass to Dancing Bear Pass and used crampons on the permanent snowfield. This time I found a cairned route that dropped to the edge of steep terrain above Jumble Lake, crossed the snowmelt creek and scrambled up blocks of talus to the right of the snowfield. There were a few class-3 moves.
Dropping to Black Bear Lake I lost the trail in snow and was a bit far north reaching the lake about mid-northwest shore. As I walked south there were some very nice campsites that tempted me to stop. But Black Bear Lake is evidently barren and I wanted to fish. Skies were again getting dark as I arrived at Big Bear Lake at noon. I camped near the creek right in the middle of the large meadow. Then I fished with not a rise or bite. It was very windy. Black threatening clouds would spit some rain before quickly moving north. Later in the evening weather improved for a short hikes to Ursa Lake, once to fish and once to take sunset photos.

Day4. 7/26: Big Bear Lake to V-Lake and afternoon meetup
(4.2 miles, 5.0 hours, 830 feet gain, 430 feet loss)

I awoke to clear skies and after packing up, walked to the shores of Big Bear Lake to take some photos. I walked up to the outlet of Ursa Lake and crossed, having to go up high to avoid cliffs. Numerous snow patches prevented return to the shore, so I continued up and down finally reaching the inlet to Ursa Lake where I could cross to avoid more cliffs. Fortunately the crossing of the inlet was very easy and on the other side at Bearpaw Lake I ran into a fellow doing Roper’s High Route. The inlet to Bearpaw Lake was quite swampy so I had to go upstream a ways to get across. The little “pass” to V-Lake is not obvious. I was glad I had been here before so I recognized where I had to go. A steep snow gully blocked the direct route to the pass. My route up was not the best; it would have been easier had I angled up earlier. As it was, I had to do a bit of class-3 scrambling. I had forgotten that there was a nice little lake on the top! I took a break and enjoyed the view and eat an early lunch. The descent was very scenic, with Seven Gables dominating the view.

For some reason I thought that the meetup was going to be at the inlet from Claw Lake. I arrived early at about noon, set my pack down and then wandered around the flat area between V-Lake and Claw Lake, searching for a person or tent. I gave up and set up in a wind-sheltered site behind a big rock where I could get water from the nearby creek and took a nice cold bucket bath.

I figured if I fished the southeast shore I would likely run into some HST members. Telling Harlen that he would recognize me by my knee-high gaiters, I made sure to wear these! Sure enough as I neared the large peninsula there was Harlen and Lizzy fishing! I fished with them for a while and met the other HST members who were in camp. I fished my way back to my camp and then returned for the late afternoon meetup when Schmalz and Flamingo returned from climbing Seven Gables. I preferred not to move my campsite so as it neared dinnertime a few others went back with me to see my setup. I assured them I would be back in the morning for “breakfast” socializing. I then did a short evening hike up to Claw Lake.

Day5. 7/27: V-Lake to Merriam Lake via Feather-Lite Pass
(3.1 miles, 3.7 hours, 1160 feet gain/ 1380 feet loss)

I walked back to the peninsula where the others were camped to again chat with HST members. A couple had come in late. After morning socializing, I returned to my pack. I did not think I could keep up with the group that left for Feather-Lite Pass; they were a bit ahead of me. When I got to Den Lake I could see them on the horizon to the pass. I did catch up to them right at the pass. The descent was not that obvious and I was thankful to be with the group, some who had done this pass before. Schmalz and Flamingo went bounding down the pass as they planned to walk out that same day. I went down with the remaining. Grampy, Rocky Road and I camped at Merriam Lake and Tomba left planning to camp near Pine Creek Pass. As we reached LeSalle Lake we noticed a hiker on the other side, evidently having come from Feather Pass. We took a long lunch break resting our knees after the steep descent. Although the west side of Feather-Lite Pass was easier than Feather Pass, the east side was much harder. Which pass to take boils down to whether you are starting from Bearpaw Lake or V-Lake.

Once to the beautiful set of ponds and meadow between LeSalle Lake and Merriam Lake, I wanted to walk the south edge of the meadow while Grampy and Rocky Road stayed on the other side. Just before the creek crashed down to Merriam Lake I crossed and went up over the small pass to drop to the Lake. I think I could have dropped directly to Merriam Lake next to the falls but did not want to risk it near the end of the day. After setting up I crossed the inlet and fished without luck. Then I fished towards the outlet, also with no luck. It did not really matter because just being out along the lake shores with the amazing views was worth it.

Day6. 7/28: Merriam Lake to French Lake east shore
(6.4 miles, 5.2 hours, 1460 feet gain/ 1170 feet loss)

After photographing Merriam Lake in the better morning light, I said bye to Rocky Road and Grampy and dropped to the trail that goes down to French Canyon. With food for a few more days I planned to loop from Lake Elba and camp at Steelhead Lake. By the time I got to the trail junction, I decided instead to cut over to French Lake from below Pine Creek Pass. I could then day-hike to Steelhead Lake to fish. At the outlet of French Lake I met a couple day-hiking from Honeymoon Lake. They mentioned that there were many fish spawning in the ponds below the outlet. I slowly hopped rocks along the southeast shoreline and found a nice campsite, with abundant shade under a big tree.

Not inclined to do the longer walk to Steelhead Lake I fished Little French Lake after a rest. I caught a Golden Trout but as I cleaned the little fish it slipped out of my hand and down a 3-inch crack in the rocks, out of reach, never to end up in my pot for dinner. Subsequent efforts at French Lake did not bring in a fish. It was quite windy and the fish seemed to nibble on my fly but never get hooked. Probably due to the wind, there were no mosquitoes so in spite of fishing frustration, it was very pleasant. Years ago I walked along the north shores of French Lake as the ice was just breaking from the lake; it was so unique. This time did not feel as enchanting from the south shore. As nice as my campsite was, I regret not camping on the north shores with its views of Royce Peak. Unexpectedly, at the end of the day, a light and fast trail runner/backpacker came bounding down the slab just above my tent and seemed surprised as he nearly crashed into the tent, apologized briefly and continued hopping the rocks along the shoreline of French Lake.

Day7. 7/29: French Lake to below Granite Park Ponds + fishing
(5.8 miles, 6.8 hours, 1260 feet gain/ 1385 feet loss)

I left my campsite and decided to see what it was like contouring south of French Lake shores. It worked out quite well with much less rock hopping. In less than an hour I was at Pine Creek Pass. I had plenty of time so planned to camp at Royce Lakes and fish both the lower lake and Lake 11658. There are many faint use-trails up to Royce Lakes and it does not matter much which one you are on. Reaching Lake 11658, the wind was biting cold in the morning. Feeling like I was in a wind tunnel, I hid behind a rock eating a snack below Lake 11725 and decided that I did not want to stay here, beautiful as it was. I had never walked the east shore of this lake with the snow melted. Although I had to use crampons with the icy snow, now melted out, it actually was worse! I slowly picked my way over talus that thankfully was stable if not easy. I took a break at the pass.

I had camped at Golden Lake many years ago and the plan was to go there. I am not sure if the green meadow I saw was the lake in eutrophication, or if the lake was around a corner not to be seen. At any rate, half way down I decided to just go back up to Granite Park since when I entered, the storm prevented fishing and exploring. I turned west up to a small saddle with a pond and dropped into the creek from Granite Park, finding a wonderful campsite on the opposite side of the creek as the trail.

After setting up camp I set out to fish the large Lake 11430. It was windy and too early in the day for any success at Lake 11430. Then I fished all the little ponds back to camp. The fish were small but I got my limit and it was fun to stream fish for a change. Cleaning the smaller fish (7-8 inches) was a pain, but they cook quickly and tasted great. I was so happy that I decided to go back to Granite Park instead of camping at Golden Lake. The wonderful sunset was a bonus to a perfect day.

Day8. 7/30: Granite Park Ponds to Pine Lake + dayhike Granite Park and side trip to Birchim Lake
(6.3 miles, 7.3 hours (with fishing), 915 feet gain/ 2075 feet loss)

I spent the morning day-hiking back to the lake at 11675 in Granite Park where I camped on Day2. Mornings offer better lighting for photos; I did not try to fish. I walked up the drainage the same route I when fishing the previous afternoon. This time I continued to the upper Granite Park meadow and finally to my previous campsite. Returning, I climbed to a higher bench/cirque to the south containing a huge meadow and two small lakes in the process of eutrophication. Then I dropped back to Granite Park due east taking photos.




Back at camp I packed up and crossed the stream getting onto the trail and went back to Upper Pine Lake. I had always wondered about Birchim Lake, but never found any sign of a trail before. Before dropping to Pine Lake, I left the trail and fumbled around cliffs and timber and brush, finally getting up to Birchim Lake, but again did not find a trail. What a disappointment! The lake had a small dam that was either broken or purposely taken out and the lake level was low with muddy shores. Dead timber was everywhere. So I left, luckily finding somewhat of a trail that went down to some old campsites just below the drop from Upper Pine Lake. I continued down to Pine Lake and camped on the peninsula in one of the established campsites, then fished the smaller peninsula on the north shore near the outlet and caught a few 8-10 inch fish. Back at camp I cleaned the fish, took a bucket bath and cooked dinner. I was surprised that nobody else was camped nearby. A large youth group who were lunching here had left, presumably for Honeymoon Lake. I was happy to be alone.

More photos from Day 8


Day9. 7/31: Pine Lake to Pine Creek Trailhead, camp at North Lake
(3.6 miles, 1.9 hours, 120 feet gain/ 2650 feet loss)

The return to the trailhead was quick and not too hot and I reached the trailhead at about 9:30AM. I had left food for my next trip in a Garcia bear can stuffed under my car and was a bit worried that it may have gotten wet. Thankfully all was OK. When I arrived in Bishop I drove to the park with hopes of a shower at the swimming facility, which was closed to the public for the day due to a local event. Even if open I am not sure I would pay $9 for a shower. So I went to the Inyo FS office, dirty and sweaty, to get my Piute Pass permit and at least wash my hair in their bathroom sink. I also needed to recharge my camera battery. The office closed for noon hour and out in the parking lot I packed up for the next trip. When the office re-opened I picked up my charged camera and got out of town as quickly as possible. It was really hot and the air was a horrible combination of pollutants- smoke, car exhaust and it stunk. I generally like Bishop, but it was oppressive now with the crowds, heat and stinky air.

I checked out campsites at Sabrina Campground and Upper Intake. Although there were sites available, they were not great. I took the chance on driving to North Lake Campground where I found a nice site although FS campsites are really too expensive for what you get- there was not even potable water. I gathered water from a tiny creek behind my site, opened each car door, draped blankets over them, and bathed. The rest of the late afternoon was spent organizing. As much as I would have liked to take my much lighter sleeping bag and dispense with the rain clothes on this next trip, it was too risky. Turned out that I really did need everything I brought!

(This year to save on gas I have doubled up trips. The second half of this trip will be reported in a separate trip report from Piute Pass. I should get it posted in the next few days.)

Ah, this makes me regret even more that I didn't get to the meet up. I can relate to the hard-to-follow trail situation above Honeymoon,too. Way back in the early 90s I remember getting sort of "mazed" with Judy on two different trips. I guess things haven't changed there much. A little note about fishing: there are a fair number of lakes that have fish that are shown as fishless on the CDFW online guide, including those in the Bear Basin and environs. A good example is Beartrap lake which is teeming with goldens. I haven't been to Black Bear recently but I suspect it does in fact have fish. Little Bear L. downstream of Big Bear is also shown as being fishless on the CDFW guide but recall seeing a ton of fish in there the last time I passed through.

You lost cleaned fish at Little French reminds me of of a "lost fish" (fish dinner denied) moment at Black Bear in 1992. We in fact skunked there but had brought back fish at Bearpaw and Big Bear. We had put the fish on a stringer in the lake. When we got back we found that some animal had eaten/torn the fish off of the stringer, so we too lost out on our golden dinner. Earlier this year I was camped at a lake in Kaiser Wilderness and had some brookies on a stringer that I planned to eat. I recall messing up cleaning them and the stringer sank into pretty deep water. I did some salvage operations hooking my stringer with deep lure retrieves and eventually recovered the fish (took about 5 tries).

Thanks for the report! In doubling up on trips this year, have you found that this has had any negative affect on your excitement/anticipation for the next trip?

I did the same thing recently -- I drove out to the Eastern Sierra for a 9-day trip, then stayed at a hotel in Bishop before doing an overnighter the next day, then dispersed camped/slept in my car before doing a 3-day trip and then driving home. I was worried at first that I wouldn't enjoy the subsequent trips as much without the typical time in between, but it turned out that I enjoyed staying on the east side for an extended period of time.