High Sierra Topix

Emigrant from Kennedy Meadows
July5-9, 2024 (5 days, 31.6 miles)

Temperatures over 110 were forecast for Sacramento. I wanted to get into the mountains, get a permit on the way, and not spend a fortune on gas. Emigrant Wilderness was an obvious choice. The initial plan was just to go up to Lewis Lakes, Ridge Lake and Iceland Lake and hang out for 3-4 days. I wanted to avoid heat and mosquitoes, perhaps catch a fish or two. Well, that did not happen. This was not a great trip, but not bad either.

Day1. 7/5: Relief Reservoir plus drive
(4.1 miles, 3.5 hours, 1495 feet elevation gain, 610 feet loss)

I left town about 7:30AM, got my permit at the Summit Ranger Station and left the trailhead parking at 10:30AM. The plan was to camp either at Lower Relief Valley or the confluence of Summit and Lewis Creeks in order to go up to the Lewis Lake area the next day. What I had not fully realized when I planned the trip was the exceedingly hot temperatures. The heat, in addition to significant elevation gains, was brutal. The trails out of Kennedy Meadows are large horse trails that I had walked before, yet, at the huge rusty pipe (evidently historic enough to be left in place) a group was resting, as tired and wiped out as myself. A fellow went down the “trail” where there was survey flagging, and the rest of us, simply followed. Soon the “trail” dead ended in a thicket at a small stream. After much scouting we all dispersed. I do not know how this group got to the Relief Reservior camps; I hope they did better than me!

I found a trail, which also ended. If my brain were working properly I would have gone back again. But I thought I would eventually run into the trail so traversed the steep slope with the sun beating down. At one point I really needed to get down to the water to cool off before I got heat stroke. I dropped down a steep game trail to a rock bench short of the standard campsites and immediately submerged in the cold reservoir. After about a half hour rest and scouting around the bend I saw that I just needed to walk a quarter mile along the shoreline rocks to the regular campsites. When I reached the campsites, even though it was early enough to go back to the trail, it was too hot and wiped out.

I found a great campsite in the shade and again soaked in the cool water, drank tons of water, fished (no luck), napped in the tent. I saw the others across Grouse Creek but did not go over there. A father and son arrived in a boat and camped on the other side of Grouse Creek (where there is a huge camp area). There were several groups over there on their last day of their 4th of July trips- all swimming. Thankfully there were no mosquitoes and a light breeze. According to my In-Reach weather report, it was 85-90 degrees in the shade and 55 at night. Knowing it would be hot since it was 112 in Sacramento I took my husband’s 1-pound down elephant’s foot for a sleeping bag, and still was plenty warm. I had plenty of time to think about “what next”. I decided to go up Summit Creek and when at Lewis Creek confluence I could go up to Lewis Lakes where there would be plenty of water as the route follows Lewis Creek. The route up from Lower Relief Valley does not have good water sources so is not a good choice given the heat.



Day2. 7/6: Middle Emigrant Lake
(9.8 miles, about 7 hours, 2770 feet elevation gain/ 1005 feet loss)

I awoke at 5AM I quickly cooked breakfast and packed up leaving at 6:30AM to beat the heat. Though the trail was in the shade, it quickly got hot. Fourth of July hikers were coming down and said that there were few mosquitoes except at Emigrant Lake. I had come down Lewis Creek in the past but it was not obvious where to cross and start up. It was 10:30 AM and the sun had already been beating on the granite slabs below Lewis Lakes all morning without a bit of shade. The idea of going up to Lewis Lake became less appealing.

I did not bring the map needed, but had been there enough. With a table of mileage and elevation gains I decided to instead go high, aiming for Lost Lakes, on the highest ridge between Kennedy Creek and headwaters of Emigrant Lakes. I would visit Lewis Lakes on the way back when I could start up in the early morning. I had forgotten how beautiful Summit Creek was. Wildflowers were in bloom and all vegetation was lush. In retrospect I would have been better off, stopping at the upper end of Lunch Meadow and simply fished the beautiful upper reaches of the creek. At Sheep Camp I met the last person I would see in 2 days. He confirmed that Emigrant Lake was a bug-fest.

Long, large snowfields still clung to the hillside on Brown Bear Pass, but the trail was clear. I reached the pass about noon. There no longer were trees or shade and the sun was brutal. Well, up 2 miles off-trail to Lost Lake was less appealing than down 2 miles on-trail to Middle Emigrant Lake. This was a choice I ended up to regret. Once I dropped to Emigrant Meadow Lake the little black bugs (not sure they were mosquitoes) swarmed and the “trail” disappeared in a bog. I had forgotten that the “trail” (which was never to be found) actually crossed to the west side of Middle Emigrant Lake at the inlet meadow. The off-trail on the east side was not bad at all, but once to the outlet, the dam was knocked down and crossing a bit of a challenge. I went downstream and finally crossed on huge talus, arriving about 1:30PM. First order of business was to soak in the lake. Then I found a great campsite on the west side. Trees as well as a huge block of granite provided shade. I fished with no luck and then took another bath. The lake water was cold! After dinner I scouted the trail to Emigrant Lake, hoping I could loop back via Emigrant Lake and Mosquito Pass. The trail was mostly absent. The evening was thankfully cooler, and I even had to put on my fleece hat at night.

Day3. 7/7: Summit Creek at Lewis Lake confluence plus route scouting
(7.1 miles, about 6 hours, 880 feet gain/ 1600 feet loss)

After looking at the miles and elevation gain to loop via Emigrant Lake it was easier to simply return over Brown Bear Pass. This time I would skirt along the hillside west of Emigrant Meadow to intersect the trail below the pass. I again left at 6:30AM and although not in the shade, a breeze kept things cool. Being up off the meadow and dry there also were no mosquitoes. It was a fun interesting route with a lot of rock scrambling along cliffs. Below one snowfield the little puddles were surprisingly frozen! I crossed too early and had to do some quick foot-work to avoid wet feet at the north end of the meadow. Better to stay east and intersect the trail half-way up to the pass. As I dropped to Lunch Meadow I would have had plenty of time to fish Summit Creek and again regret not stopping. I always hesitate to fish mid-day and haul the fish to camp.

Above the confluence of Lewis Creek and Summit Creek I scouted up and down the trail for about half an hour. Although the creek was easy to cross in many places, the banks were mostly thickets of brush. I finally found a nice crossing, where I chose to wade instead of walk unsteady logs. Even though early afternoon, the heat was on. I went over a slab hump to find Lewis Creek to verify I was just above the confluence. I found a nice campsite but it would not have afternoon shade. Lewis Creek was inviting and I lowered myself into an icy pool just below a little waterfall, with little fish swimming around. The sun began to encroach on the shade and I returned to Summit Creek setting up in the deep dark forest of thin spindly trees at an established campsite. After a nap in the tent I scouted the beginning of the route I would take the next day. There are several ways to go. I turned around after going up half a mile and 250 feet where I looked down on Lewis Creek. Back at Summit Creek I poked around, photographed, and of course, another cooling bath! There were a few mosquitoes in the deep forest but I cooked out in the open on nearby rocks. I retired early into the tent.




Day4. 7/8: Day-hike to Upper Lewis Lake/ move to Relief Reservoir
(5.9 miles, 6.5 hours, 1180 feet gain, 2315 feet loss)

Again I was up early and left on my day-hike a bit after 6AM. It was such a relief to be day-hiking without a full pack! Thankfully I was in shade until I again was at the little saddle and dropped into Lewis Creek. Although I could have spent the entire day and fished Lewis Lakes, it would make a grueling next day out. My goal was simply to get some good photos, enjoy the scenery and be back by noon. I stayed a bit east of Lewis Creek to avoid thick brush and wet ground. Nearing Lower Lewis Lake I went high and even stepped up on some snow, reaching the shore in less than an hour. There are a few marginal campsites near the outlet, but many more up the inlet stream.

Thankfully there is an easy step-across at the outlet. Then it was up rock slabs on a zig-zag route to avoid cliffs. There were many choices of ways to go- sort of a vertical puzzle to solve. Upper Lewis Lake was amazing! I walked the entire northeast shore, finding the best campsites are near the southeast end. It was about 500 feet up to the next lake, which I never thought was very scenic. Iceland and Ridge Lakes are worth a visit but I had been there many times and needed to head back. I took a slightly different route back. You cannot really get lost but can get stuck on cliffs or dead-ended in brush or bogs. It was getting hot by the time I reached camp. I packed up, and then cooled off in Summit Creek before leaving at about 11AM. I could have walked out, but having enough food for one more night, I went back to the Relief Reservoir standard camps finding a site with lots of shade on the banks of Grouse Creek. Although no mosquitoes, a bee stung me! A bold chipmunk tried to get into the tent.

There is a use-trail continuing about quarter mile south along the cliffs where there are many established campsites on cliffs above the shoreline. At one point the trail drops to a sandy beach where I met the only fellow also camped, who had day-hike to Lower Relief Valley and had success fishing. He had been there two days. I asked about the two aluminum canoes up on the shore and he said they were there when he arrived and he never saw anyone.

Lewis Lakes were the highlight of the trip; it was a very nice relaxed day. It is easy to regret not doing my intended route, hanging out at Lewis, Ridge and Iceland Lakes. But that ignores the reality of hauling a full pack in extreme heat, up the steep rocks which I would day were class 2 if not easy class 3 scrambling at a few points. I definitely will go back to the Lewis Lakes to fish when things cool down later in the season.

More photos from day 4

Day5. 7/9: Walk out to Kennedy Meadows Trailhead Parking
(4.7 miles, 3 hours, 735 feet gain/ 1530 feet loss)

I left about 7AM and walked on the large horse trail taking morning photos of the reservoir. When I reached the point where I went wrong coming in, the cause was apparent. The “real trail” took a turn and went over rocks that did not look like a trail. The “wrong trail” was flagged and looked like and obvious trail. There was no sign. Another complicating factor was that the map has 80-foot contours and having only a printed copy without the legend, my estimated height above the reservoir was totally wrong. I find that I make more mistakes in areas I have been in many times because I often fail to really look at the map!

As I dropped down the trail, it was empty until I saw a group camped in the trees near the Kennedy Lake trail junction. Shortly, two packers came up (one bringing in gear, one going in empty to pick up a group) and three young fellows day-hiking. Once to Kennedy Meadows, it was surprisingly empty. I asked a PCT hiker if he knew anyone who needed a ride back to Sonora Pass, but he said the shuttle had just left. I have hitched back to the pass myself, so like to pay-back with a ride for those in need.
I stopped at the Summit Ranger Station on the way back to give them a conditions report. The trails up by Emigrant Meadow Lake were in very poor shape and sign posts down. Although they appreciated the information, there is only one wilderness ranger for both Emigrant Wilderness and the Carson Wilderness so unlikely anything would be done. It seems like wilderness rangers are becoming extinct.

Nice report and photos. I'm amazed at how you can make up these detailed reports just a day or two after returning!

Can you estimate the actual daytime temperatures? We spent the 4th holiday using our cabin at 4,000 feet as a base. It reached 100F there mid-day, but we spent the days hiking at about 9000 feet (Tahoe Rim Trail near Mt. Rose and Castle Peak to Basin Peak traverse) where I think it topped out at about 80, with a light breeze. When we returned to our cabin about 4 pm, it was still in the 90s. Our cabin is in deep forest shade, so it was actually not bad.

-Phil

The temperatures were from the In-Reach basic weather forecast I get each morning. They felt pretty accurate as temperature in the shade. But temperature in the shade is not the same as being in the sun on rock that reflects the heat back up on you. High altitude sun is pretty powerful. I think the In-reach forecast is similar to what you get from the NWS website. Someone more heat-tolerant than me may have not thought it all that hot. I think I am going to get a good light weight thermometer, so I really know the temperatures. It would be interesting to compare with the forecasts. Bottom line- it was above the average temperatures by quite a bit.

Kennedy Meadows is about 7000 feet, Relief Reservoir about 8000, Middle Emigrant about 9000 as is Lewis Lakes. The north side of Summit Creek is the dark volcanic rocks, south side granite. When the canyon narrows it feels like you are in an oven.

Whoa that is hot for that altitude. Last year Dawn and I hiked in somewhat hotter temps but our high point on our day 1 (Lake Vernon) was lower than your starting point. Lewis Lakes and vicinity is gorgeous. I think you made the most out of difficult conditions.

GB- what do you think is the odd rock feature shown on the third photo? Is it natural or maybe a human artifact?

Kudos WD. You made a cool hike in some uncool temperatures. We envy your making it to the beautiful Lewis Lakes, which we missed last trip there. So there are fish in those rocky lakes? They weren't on the pretty useless "fishing list" we got at Pinecrest Ranger Station. I am coming to think that the whole ranger business is not up to what it used to be. We seem to meet only staff who hardly know their districts. The crowd of rangers I hung out with in the 90's were all keen naturalists, climbers, and backcountry phenoms. For what it's worth, all were women too.

The great exception in my book, are the "Dos Pilewskis," the winter rangers up at Tuolumne, and also serve as summer rangers in the Kern country. They know the Sierra backcountry in all seasons, and are super engaged and knowledgeable. I am thinkng a lot about rangering, as I reread the Randy Morgenstern story recently-- he had in part mentored the Pilewskis, and was a friend of our George Durkee, who figures so prominently in that story.

Anyhow, I digress. We are glad you got the Lewis Lakes we are interested in seeing, and you made it look like a worthy destination. Perhaps it will have cooled down in October. How was your fishing in the creeks and lakes Nancy? And what happened to Middle Emigrant? Thanks for putting together this timely report. Ian and Lizzie.

When I left the Tahoe basin at 6.3k midday on July 2, it was 80F and remained so over Echo Summit at 7.3k. Where I backpacked to near Gilmore Lake reached about 75F.

Yeah those trails about Relief Reservoir appear like a maze on this map:

https://caltopo.com/map.html#ll=38.2763 ... &b=t&a=mba

A good way to understand where current trails route is to on Caltopo with Base Layer in Scanned Topos select the Map Builder Overlay. Use the Windows Snipping Tool in the Rectangular Snip mode. Select a map area then <CTRL>c copy. Even without Photoshop, one can use MS Windows, Paint to then <CTRL>v paste, edit, and save the result. And without a color printer, use FedEx Office to cheaply print out color maps.

Black flies are much worse than mosquitoes, much more aggressive with much itchier long lasting bites. While sleeping one apparently got into my tent at night. I received 4 itchy bites on my lower legs with 3/4 inch red welts during my recent Desolation trip that took 4 days to recover.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_fly

Blackflies do not seem to bite me- just swarm in my face. I have friends who get horribly bitten by them. On the other hand, I am a mosquito magnet. Blackflies seem to come out more in full sun, whereas mosquitoes more at dawn and dusk. "Blackflies" are really gnats. The species in the Wind Rivers have been brought in or naturally moved in - called Minnesota Buffalo Gnats- different from those in the northeast. I do not know what species are in the Sierra- probably several kinds same as there are several species of mosquitos.

There were tons of snowmelt streamlets running so it was fairly easy to manage the heat by wetting clothing or simply soaking in cool water. No stream was impossible to wade across.

Thanks for the tip on using Caltopo for locating current locations of trails. Yes, that tangle of trails up by the dam is what I got caught up in!