High Sierra Topix

Pioneer Basin
June 21-26, 2024 (6 days, 25.6 miles)


Day1. 6/21: Ruby Lake plus drive
(1.9 miles, 2 hours, 950 feet elevation gain, 140 feet loss)

I left town at 7:30, drove, picked up my permit and lucked out getting the last parking spot at the trailhead. The trail was crowded with day-hikers. I left my car at 2PM taking it slow since I was at sea level in the morning. I reached Ruby Lake a bit before 4PM and hopped rocks below the outlet to camp on a bench above. It was peaceful with all the day-hikers on the other side. A small snowmelt stream provided an easy water source. I did not even treat the water. I lacked energy to fish so just poked around. It was a perfectly blue sky day, but a bit hot for comfortable hiking. There were just a few baby mosquitoes.



Day2. 6/22: Pioneer Basin Lake 10825
(5.9 miles, 6.8 hours, 1970 feet elevation gain/ 2020 feet loss)


Being the first backpack of the year, I was quite disorganized and tired from sleeping poorly. I awoke at 5AM and checked the nearby snowbank which was rock hard and observed thin ice on the little snowmelt stream. A small trail dropped down to the lake shore where I took some photos. Then I packed up and left, again hopping across the stream. Although you can short-cut to the Mono Pass Trail, it is not worth the effort since it is only a quarter mile back to the junction. As I was slogging up the coarse sandy trail a trail-runner passed, in bare feet! Another fellow passed me. Thankfully, the exposed part of the trail was snow-free. Shortly the snow started. The slope was not as steep and there was a good runout, so the micro-spikes were really not needed, but added stability to each step. Being in the shadows the snow was still hard.

Once on Mono Pass, I followed a higher trail to avoid snow, which turned out to be a mistake. I ended up having to drop down the snow anyway. At Summit Lake, three hikers were actually swimming in the icy lake! A large snowbank blocked the trail at one point and I took an alternate use-trail, reconnecting to the main trail above Trail Lake. The trail is in good shape down to the crossing of the creek from Golden Lake. I waded in the calf-deep water but the couple behind me hopped across on a wet stump and rock. I would rather take an extra 15 minutes than chance falling into the stream. As the young couple sped down the trail I slogged behind. I left the trail early and traversed cross-country to reconnect with the horse trail.

By this time I was getting exhausted and the sun was getting beastly hot. I met two fellows with dogs at the outlet crossing of the lowest Pioneer Basin Lake. I waded again and ate a snack. In retrospect I probably should have camped there, but continued the steep trail to the lake at 10825 where there are several nice campsites but less scenic than the lower lake. I crossed the tiny outlet and set up under some trees at 3PM. I was the only one at this lake.

It took forever to set up, gather water, and take a bath. I had no energy to fish although I saw plenty in the lake. After dinner a few mosquitoes came out, enough that I decided to lay down in the tent at 7:30 PM. I have been plagued with some serious sciatica over the winter and have only been able to walk more than a few miles on the flat. I was pleased that I could do the elevation gains, but had sharp pains down my leg at the end of the day. I did a few exercises that my physical therapist recommended. It took a couple of hours before the aches subsided. It was amazingly warm at night, hardly needing a sleeping bag. The moon was still pretty bright so I pulled my fleece hat over my eyes.

Day3. 6/23: Pioneer Basin Lake 10862 inlet + side trip Lake at 10915
(5.3 miles, 6.2 hours, 1200 feet gain/ 1150 feet loss)

The plan was to fish in the morning, and go the short distance to Lake 10862, set up and then day-hike the upper lakes. I was awake at dawn at 5AM, and after breakfast fished, catching three small fish, but released them. I am getting a bit forgetful. I spent half an hour trying to find my small bag of spices. I gave up and left resigned to eating bland food the rest of the trip. (Two days later they showed up at the bottom of the deep, black, side pocket in my pack; evidently I found them after packing the bear can so tossed the spices in the side pocket.)

There is sort of a use-trail to Lake 10862. I had come down the trail a few years back. The use-trail became a chore to follow so I just walked cross country, over many small obstacles. When I reached the outlet of Lake 10862 a huge snowbank down to the water blocked the crossing. I dropped downstream and waded across. Another use trail appeared so I took it, ending up at the north end of Lake 10862. The real trail goes along the shoreline and the trail I took was inland a bit. The campsites were across the inlet stream. Not desiring to cross and the re-cross to do my planned day-hike, the distances are so short between lakes that I decide to just carry my pack along the route.

I was tempted to camp at Lake 11026 and day-hike to the unnamed lake to the southeast at 10915, a lake I failed to visit on my previous two trips to Pioneer Basin. Before I hit the ridge between the two lakes I decided to stash my pack so I would not have to haul it back up the 250 feet. I then went up to the ridge, placing a small rock to mark the route. It was a beautiful drop to the lake at 10915 where there was a perfect campsite with a splendid view of the Fourth Recess. Other than not being centrally located, camping at this lake would be my favorite.

I took photos and went back up what I thought was the same route, but was a parallel gully. On top I started down and could not find my pack. After over an hour searching methodically, up and down, I found my pack. For a moment I was wondering what I would do if I failed to find the pack. I had my In-Reach, but what an embarrassment to call in and say I lost my pack! The weather was perfect and I had 5-6 hours of daylight left, so I just kept searching. It was a good reminder of what I already knew- stashing your pack is not the smartest thing to do.

I went back down to Lake 10862, waded across the creek and found many campsites, none very pleasing. There was a huge snowfield in the next gully from the inlet stream. It extended nearly 250 feet towards the upper lakes. Another little stream meandered through a lush green swampy adjacent meadow that I crossed. Up on the next little hill I found a good campsite. The wind was really picking up and I was glad I found wind shelter, as well as shade. I went back down to the little stream, gathered water and took a bucket bath.

I fished the north and west shores about half a mile southward. I had to wait for calm between gusts to cast and then wait while the wind howled. I caught one 9-inch fish and carried that poor little fish from one spot to another going back towards camp. I got plenty of bites, but the surface was so rough I think the fish simply could not catch the fly. I cleaned the fish, put it in a wet towel inside the bear can and took a short hike scouting a route to the uppermost lake I would take the next day. Morning is better for photographing this lake. Back at camp I dropped the fish in a pot of miso soup with couscous. Although small the fish really added to the flavor. I will never know if there were mosquitoes, because the wind blew all day. The gusts continued blowing loudly all night. I only spotted one tent in the distance and never met a person all day.

Day4. 6/24: Day-hike the upper lake and move to Fourth Recess Lake
(5.7 miles, 6.2 hours, 490 feet gain, 1205 feet loss)

After breakfast I left up the tent and day-hiked to the uppermost lake, which is very scenic sitting in a cirque under Mt. Crocker and still partially frozen. After poking around and taking photos I returned and packed up, leaving about 9AM. This time I took the fisherman’s trail along the shore of Lake 10862 and then down to the same crossing I used coming in. There were trails on either side of the stream from Lake 10862. I remained on the north side of a small lake then crossed a bit farther down intersecting the main horse trail. After the confluence of the stream from the lake at 10915 the trail crossed and I again waded. Just before getting to the lowest Pioneer Lake the trail went up onto a prominent ridge and dropped to the junction southeast of the lowest lake. I had not noticed this unmarked junction on my way in.

Then it was back down the trail, this time I stayed on the trail until it intersected the Mono Creek Trail. It annoyingly drops far down only to have to come back up. I ate a snack at the trail junction. Shortly up the trail is the junction to Fourth Recess. Again I had to wade across the creek. I was surprised that nobody was at the lake.

I had debated between camping and fishing in Fourth Recess or returning to the trail and camping at Golden Lake. I found a fine campsite so decided to stay and fish. There is a fisherman’s trail along the east shore until it runs into a large talus cone. I caught three small fish and returned to camp by 3PM as clouds built. At 4PM rain began so I rested inside the tent. By 6PM it stopped raining and I cooked dinner and went back to the outlet for photos. Fourth Recess Lake is very scenic, but lighting was not great for photos.

Day5. 6/25: Ruby Lake
(5.0 miles, 6.1 hours, 2110 feet gain/ 1205 feet loss)

Given the change in weather I left early to get over Mono Pass, where I absolutely did not want to be in a storm. I waded across the stream, continued up the trail and again waded across. Going up the trail I met a group of young fellows who were camped at Trail Lake and headed to Golden Lake to fish. As much as I would have enjoyed a side-trip up to Nellee Lake, clouds were building so I kept going. At Summit Lake I met more backpackers with happy dogs enjoying romping in the snow. I ate lunch at Mono Pass meeting many more day-hikers. Since I had micro-spikes I put them on even if no needed in the softer snow, but they did help a bit. Just as I got off the snow, a clap of thunder rumbled. Continuing down the trail, more day-hikers were ascending.

Reaching Ruby Lake, the rocks I had hopped across the first day were now flooded so I stayed on the “tourist” side and set up at an established campsite. I shared the afternoon with many day-hikers. I warned a couple that I intended to take a bath and they graciously stayed away. I fished for more than an hour. Again it was quite windy so I only landed one fish. All the time the weather was getting more threatening. I put the fish on a stringer in the lake and went up to my tent.

From 4PM to 6:30PM several storms, each stronger, blew in. Between light rains the sun would shine and it was so hot in the tent that I started to get out only to be driven inside with more rain. Then all hell broke loose- lightning, thunder, gales that threw sand all over the tent, hail, heavy rain, gushing floods of water running partially under the tent and distant crashing of rockfall. Thankfully the tent held, I only had to sponge up some water that blew in through the mosquito netting and no gear got wet. It was as if I had camped on the beach in a hurricane with fine sand imbedded in everything. What a mess! Even though my site was in a gully, at least the water flowed under it. The nearby campsites on benches were totally flooded. There was half an inch of water in my cookpot under some big trees. I estimated that there must have been at least an inch of rain out in the open. Cooking dinner was a gritty chore, everything covered with fine sand and mud.



Day6. 6/26: Rock Creek TH + drive
(1.9 miles, 1.3 hours, 60 feet gain/ 950 feet loss)

I awoke early and ran down to the lake to get sunrise photos, then back to camp. Packing up was a mess. The ground cloth was so muddy I took it to the lake and washed it. Since I was on my way out I stuffed the wet muddy tent into its bag. The trail going out was full of washouts and puddles. I met a nice couple from Bishop and they said they also got hit by the storm. I hope all the day-hikers had been able to get down to the trailhead before the storm hit. At least I got a free car wash out of the storm! I do not think the car has been so clean in ages. The drive home was beautiful but surprisingly crowded with traffic.

This was quite the “shake-down” first trip of the season. Lost things, found things, storms and all. I was not sure how I would do given being crippled up this spring with sciatica and unable to do my usual daily walking. Each year I am just thankful I can still backpack at all. I am hopeful that I will continue to recover and be able to attend the Meetup!

Thanks for this, Daisy. I had some similar issues on my first shakedown hike this year, in Desolation Wilderness. Nothing critical, but lots of little odds and ends that didn't work out the way I expected...and made me remember that I was out of practice.

Daisy -
Thank you for this - your gorgeous photos show me some of what I missed from my (failed) trip in June 2022. On that trip, I had an inadequate 25 degree bag (since replaced) that left me freezing for my one night at Trail Lake … I decided to bail the next morning.
Sorry you have the sciatica issue (been there, done that); I hope you are able to work through it to make the Meetup trip.

Thanks for the great photos of such a beautiful area.

As for the sciatica… I had a bad case in 2015. Physical therapy was not helping. Finally got a MRI scan which showed a stenovial cyst pressing on the nerves in the spinal column. The neurosurgeon injected steroids into the cyst, causing it to shrink and magically erasing all pain. Has been fine since. Have you had an MRI scan of your spine? If not, suggest you get one.

-Phil

Lovely TR. Reminds me that I need to prioritize a trip to Pioneer Basin!

Thanks, great report WD. I'll be there in August and greatly appreciate the local knowledge, esp. lake 10915 since I'm an isolationist on the trail

I cancelled my reserved Desolation trip during those same dates due to the very windy forecast. Considered camping at that bench above Ruby you sited at. We found an excellent out of the way site well below the outlet above the creek by a large boulder.

I stash my gear occasionally and do so carefully often taking photos and topo notes, to make certain I will find it because one could easily die from exposure at night. I also often site my camp spots well away from trails with same issue.