High Sierra Topix

Scab Creek Loop
July 22-30, 2023 (9 days, 61 miles)


This trip went pretty much as planned; first to the Fremont Trail at Dream Lake, north past several lakes known for large cutthroat trout, Europe Canyon, off-trail via Halls Lake to Middle Fork Lake, high route to Bonneville Lake, return to Scab Creek. Due to weather and a foot injury I skipped Bonneville Lake.
Note that mileages include fishing and day-hikes

7/21: Drive to Scab Creek TH

I left Lander about noon and drove to South Pass. Instead of staying on paved roads I turned north onto a well graded gravel Lander Cutoff Road, a much more direct although slower road that parallels the mountains through sagebrush, cattle ranches and natural gas wells. I was surprised to see a few long distance bicyclists peddling south. The road becomes paved the last few miles before turning onto the dirt Scab Creek Road that leads to the trailhead and BLM no-fee campground. The equestrian sites on a hill had cell service but little shade. I called home before dropping to the backpacker’s campground where there are about 10 very nice spread-out sites with shade. I was the only person in the campground. I set up the tent, adding the fly as threatening clouds built. It spit rain all night but remained warm and very humid.

Day1. 7/22: Dream Lake
(11.1 miles, about 8 hours, 2340 feet elevation gain/ 685 feet loss)

I was up early and dried the car-camping tent before leaving. At the trailhead I backed into a parking spot that would provide shade for the food I had in the trunk. The Scab Creek Trail goes due east past Divide Lake to Dream Lake. The two fellows from Logan Utah parked next to me had not heard of the campground and had slept in their car. I started a bit ahead of them, they passed me in a few hours, and later I caught up with them. At Divide Lake I ran into a group going back to the cars with the cutest friendly goats. There were several backpackers where the trail crosses the South Fork of Boulder Creek including the two from Logan. After crossing we chatted about fishing. The water was reasonably low but there were several braids of the creek to cross. Near Dream Lake I was warned that a large youth group was camped at Bobs Lake. With that in mind I found a nice secluded campsite above the north inlet to Dream Lake. I set up, took a cold bucket bath and cooked an early dinner. The trail junction near camp was a jumble of trails so I scouted until I figured out where I needed to go the next day. I went as far as Bobs Lake, a pretty little lake that would have been a fine campsite, if not occupied by so many others. Back at camp, I was too tired to fish, but happy that I had acclimated well enough that this longer day was easier than the first day of my last trip. I cannot recall if it rained that night, but it was humid and windy.





Day2. 7/23: Pipestone Lakes
(7.7 miles, about 7 hours, 1145 feet elevation gain/ 825 feet loss)

I re-crossed the inlet stream and walked past Bobs Lake where the youth group was still camped. A few CDT hikers passed me with their tiny light packs. Shortly I passed Sandpoint Lake, probably named for its large and unusual sand dune near the south end. At the north end of the lake, the trail crosses the Middle Fork of Boulder Creek at a shallow but wide ford. I met a group coming back from Middle Fork Lake (which I would visit later).

The Fremont Trail continued through forest and hills with occasional grassy meadows still full of wildflowers. Another CDT hiker quickly passed me while I sat on a rock and drank some water. Had I looked at my map more carefully I would have realized that the Fremont Trial crosses Halls Creek. There was no signpost or junction. I assumed being the CDT I would see a big trail and turned upstream on a well-used trail. I followed the trail up Halls Creek unaware that I was on the wrong trail. The fact that I was off-route became clearer when the trail deteriorated into a faint use-trail. To verify my location before I turned around, I continued to the large first lake on Halls Creek (Lake 9987). Then I dropped back to where I made the mistake, waded across Halls Creek and fumbled around in a meadow until I found the Fremont Trail. I regretted not bringing the easy-to-read USGS 7.5 minute maps. I do not totally regret the unintended side-trip up Halls Creek as it was quite pretty and I always wondered what it was like.



On the continuing trail to Pipestone Lakes there were tons of yet-to-be cleared downed trees from the “2020 blowdown”. Going was slow. I had taken no rests on my boondoggle up Halls Creek and now I was beat. Finally I ate a snack when I reached the outlet of the southern Pipestone Lake. As I walked the east shores it looked like a good lake to fish. That, with an impending storm made camping between the two Pipestone Lakes on a bench above the lakes a good idea. I had set up just before it started to rain. After a brief squall, I dropped to the northern lake and bathed. Then I fished the outlet of the upper lake and immediately caught three fat 10-12-inch cutthroat trout. Between more rain squalls, I cleaned and cooked the fish for a hearty dinner. Rain forced me into the tent early, which was fine with me; I was tired.




Day3. 7/24: Europe Canyon Lake 10741
(6.1 miles, about 6 hours, 1020 feet gain/ 410 feet loss)

The next stop was Europe Canyon with several good lakes to fish, including Long Lake. I had been there several times, but never from the Fremont Trail. I was late to leave Pipestone Lakes due to drying the wet tent before packing it. The Fremont Trail runs along the west shore of the northern Pipestone Lake and then through more meadows and forest to Valley Lake where the old Europe Canyon trail starts Again I spaced out and overshot going too far north and when the trail lost too much elevation I realized my mistake and again, had to backtrack to Valley Lake.

I spent considerable time scouting for a trail junction and found nothing; not a sign or trail. I gave up and simply went uphill off-trail, hoping to run into the trail, which I did but not until I had gone through some gnarly bushwhacking. I was never “lost” since the roaring creek was within earshot but was one small ridge too far north. When I found the trail I stopped for lunch. Shortly the trail came to a small unnamed lake where, on the map, one trail goes north into Europe Canyon proper and another east to Lake 10542. On the ground, there was no evidence of a “trail” to Europe Canyon. I waded across the outlet of the small lake at 10400 and headed into Europe Canyon where a trail finally began and became more distinct as it continued to Lake 10741. This trail eventually goes up to Europe Pass, the Wind River Indian Reservation Boundary.

I debated going north, off-trail to Long Lake, but realized I would have little time left to fish. Camping at Long Lake was exposed and with the threatening weather and wind, a sheltered site near the outlet of Lake 10741 was the more prudent choice. After wading across the outlet creek from Lake 10741 I found a campsite tucked in scrub timber on a nearby hillside. Once set up I tried to fish the lake but the wind was creating whitecaps and the fish were not interested in surfacing. Back at camp I was thankful to be sheltered from the howling wind. I braved a chilly bucket bath in the nearby stream fed by snowmelt. I walked up to Lake 10741 one more time for evening photos and called it a day. The wind howled all night, supposedly 55 mph so forecast by my In-Reach weather report. It sounded like every bit of that, if not more.

Day4. 7/25: AM day-hike and move to Europe Canyon Lake 10542
(4.2 miles, about 4 hours, 425 feet gain/ 525 feet loss)

I awoke to clear skies and a wet tent but it could stay up and dry while I day-hiked the upper canyon. I took my fishing rod and headed upstream, fishing Lake 10741 along the way. Reaching Lake 10813 I met two fellows who camped on the saddle to this lake. The wind had ripped out their tent stakes and blew down their tent in the rain during the night and they now were drying out their wet gear. I fished below their camp and got some bites but did not land a fish, which was fine with me since I really did not want to eat fish at that time. I stashed my fishing pole and I hiked up to the fishless highest lake (11023) and took photos. It was stunningly beautiful but stark. Going back to my camp I again tried fishing Lake 10741 but the wind had now picked up.





I packed up and waded back across the outlet meeting a day-hiker at the crossing; he was camped down at Valley Lake and luckily, had found the start of the trail. Again I debated going to Long Lake but I remembered good fishing at the next lake down (Lake 10542) where it was less windy. The campsite I had previously used was full of tents so I waded across the outlet and after nearly an hour looking at numerous sites and settled on the mid-south shore. After the previous night’s wind I looked for shelter. Setting up the tent was challenging and time consuming to fit on the small flat spot on the hillside with clumps of trees.

After gathering water, a bath and washing a shirt, I finally put the fishing rod together. It took an hour, but I caught two fat 12-14 inch cutthroat trout. I could have caught more but these two were enough for dinner. The late afternoon was beautiful and evening sunset spectacular. The skies remained clear and the wind was mild. It had been a very good relaxing day.





Day5. 7/26: Bench above the Middle Fork Trail
(6.9 miles, about 7.5 hours, 1275 feet gain/ 1040 feet loss)

The day’s travel was all off-trail and delightful with perfect weather. The day before, I studied a route to Lake 10806 that was up the hill behind my camp. Once on top I continued along the southwest shores and dropped into the small lakes at the head of the west fork of Halls Creek. Rather than directly traversing to Halls Lake which I had done several times in the past, I explored a low route down the drainage to the confluence with the main fork of Halls Creek flowing from Halls Lake. I waded across and, at this point, was just a mile upstream of the lake I accidently went to on the second day. I then walked north, adjacent to Halls Creek through lovely meadows and open forest to the outlet from Halls Lake, stopping for lunch and photos.




A use-trail continued to the much smaller lake to the south. I contoured slightly upward to a broad saddle on the south ridge of a prominent peak and dropped into a bench full of lush grass and little lakes above the Middle Fork Trail. I camped at a small lake with a convoluted difficult to fish shoreline and three inlets. The tent was set up just as a rain squall came barreling through. I did catch a few small fish for dinner but spent most of my time trying to reach the shoreline through the willows and swamp. Later I dropped to a smaller lake to the south that likely did not have fish and took a bath. I had not seen a single person the entire day. Halls Lake was definitely more spectacular, but I had previously quickly passed by these small lakes on the bench and simply wanted to camp there and try to catch a fish.

Day6. 7/27: Above Middle Fork Lake inlet
(4.1 miles, about 4 hours, 325 feet gain/ 425 feet loss)

It was not far to Lee Lake where I had planned to camp and fish, so the morning start was leisurely. I dropped down the small lake below, where a hundred foot drop over easy terrain brought me to the unmaintained trail to Photo Pass. I descended this trail to the junction with the Middle Fork Trail, and turned up to the very large Middle Fork Lake. The maintained trail ended near the outlet but a good use-trail continued along and above the north shores. Rain started as I neared the creek tumbling down the steep hill from Bewmark Lake. I waded across and climb about 100 feet above the shoreline to avoid a swampy willow jungle. I ended up on a ridge 120 feet above the inlet to Middle Fork Lake and found several nice campsites in clumps of trees. I decided to camp here instead of the more exposed Lee Lake. There were signs of heavy use by game, so I choose a site away from any game paths and up against sturdy trees with protection from the prevailing winds. A snowmelt stream on the ridge provided water. When the sun briefly came out I gathered water and took a quick frigid bath in the snowmelt.




Weather improved enough that I fished up and down the creek from Lee Lake the entire afternoon, snagging two small brook trout. I tried to fish Lee Lake but it was windy and the fish were nowhere near the rough surface. I also fished Middle Fork Lake just below the inlet, to no avail. The surface also was too choppy. I went back to camp and photographed the fading light on the peaks above Lee Lake.



At 6PM just as I finished eating dinner, a huge storm blew in dropping marble sized hail on my head! I dove into the tent and soon hail was pelting the tent and bouncing five feet off the ground, covering it with hail. The trees above broke the force but plenty of large balls got through. Thankfully they were soft like snowballs instead of ice cubes. After the storm I tightened the sagging tent, which fortunately was not damaged. The stove was soaked while the food remained dry and safe inside the bear can. Suddenly it was very cold and I retreated into the tent for the night.

My left outside ankle had swollen the last few days. I did not recall any injury but likely it was related to my shoes. I had tightened the laces on that foot too much and the ankle rubbed on the shoe. The cold seemed to bring out the pain. I took an Advil and Tylenol, a combination my orthopedic specialist son-in-law had recommended.

Day7. 7/28: Rainbow Lake outlet
(4.2 miles, about 4 hours, 650 feet gain/ 555 feet loss)

Morning light highlighted Dragon Head and Pronghorn peaks above Lee Lake. While eating breakfast I heard strange noises and rustling and upon searching, the source was a hen grouse with her offspring. The weather was perfect and I had hoped to go to the head of the cirque and drop to Bonneville Lake, but my left ankle was not a lot better. Simply getting to Rainbow Lake would be easier and if the foot were better I could still take a low route to Bonneville Lake.




I packed up and hobbled down the hill, waded across the creek from Lee Lake and headed uphill to the pass to Rainbow Lakes. The east-facing slope had more trees but fewer campsites due to little flat ground. Some talus and a small patch of snow had to be crossed at the top where there is a distinct trail dropping to Rainbow Lake. At the inlet, trails go along either side of Rainbow Lake; I stayed left on the more complex east shore which was still covered with a few inches of hail. I toyed with the idea of continuing off-trail to Bonneville Lake, but my ankle was sore enough that resting here would be wiser. A few nice established campsites just up from the outlet were still were wet from the hail so I waited a bit before setting up. A large family came up from Dream Lake and camped across the lake from me. The kids were having a ball scrambling up the rocky shore and fishing. It was another windy day and the fish had no interest in my fly. I wished I had brought a book to read.

Day8. 7/29: SF Boulder Creek with a boondoggle towards Monroe Lake
(8.7 miles, about 8 hours, 855 feet gain/ 1455 feet loss)

The trail to Dream Lake was well maintained and my foot felt better as long as I stepped on flat ground. I passed where I had camped the first night and waded across the creek. As I was putting my shoes back on a large group of young people crossed trying to hop rocks instead of wading. A few ended up with wet feet anyway. I tried an “alternate” trail on the map, north of the swampy main trail along the shores of Dream Lake. A distinct trail started at an old sign but soon ended. Travel was easy and I intersect the main at the outlet of Dream Lake where three fellows were camped. They too tried and failed to find the alternate trail. Sign posts missing where needed, present on trails that no longer are maintained and general mismatch of ground conditions and map are quite common in the Wind Rivers. Added to that, the Continental Divide Trail has become so popular that traditional trail names on the map are being replaced by “CDT” on newer signs. I seem to make more mistakes on trails than off-trail.

When I reached the South Fork of Boulder Creek, my foot felt better and it was early in the day. Not wanting to walk repeat miles to Divide Lake I decided to take an alternate route via Monroe Lake. I had taken this route in 2008 with no problem. I reached the small pass near a prominent rock outcrop just fine. As the trail gradually descended to Monroe Lake, it became progressively worse with confusing side trails. I ran into four cows. The farther I went the more I was worried that I had accidently turned onto a rancher’s cattle trail. I should have been to Monroe Lake and was not. The safe bet was to turn around and return the way I had come. The only thing I got from my afternoon boondoggle was exhaustion and a more damaged ankle.

Fortunately I found a great campsite above the creek. I dropped down a steep hillside, gathered water, enjoyed soaking my feet in the stream and took a nice bath. Unfortunately, back up at the campsite I tripped over a log landing on my left shoulder which I had injured years ago. Now I was hurting all over! I cooked dinner and got into the tent to avoid any more damage. It was an inglorious end to what started out as a great day.




Day9. 7/30: Scab Creek TH and Campground
8.1 miles, about 8 hours, 605 feet gain, 2145 feet loss

Thank goodness for trekking poles! I hobbled slowly out to the trailhead at about 1 mph mostly going downhill. Several people passed me, including a few CDT hikers. The weather was good, so all I had to deal with was my broken body. I again stayed at the campground; a fellow from Louisiana was camped near me. He was going in the next day and we chatted a bit about his plans. My food had stayed relatively cool in the trunk of my car so I downed two somewhat cold beers. I sent an In-Reach message to my husband, since I was too lazy to drive the car up to the hill where there was cell reception.




Rain, Rest and Road Trip
July 31-August 5, 2023

7/31: Fremont Lake Campground

I drove to a RV Park near Boulder, a small town 12 miles south of Pinedale, paid $5 for a shower, plugged in electronics to charge while doing laundry and made phone calls. In Pinedale I picked up some groceries and nabbed a first-come campsite at nearby Fremont Lake Campground- quite lucky since this very popular campground fills up early.

With my lame foot I would have to re-think my next trip. I decided to go up to Green River Lakes where I had lots of flexibility to backpack, day-hike, or fish the Green River from the campground. I spent the late afternoon organizing gear and packing food for two short backpacks. Once organized, I hobbled to the nearby faucet, filled a bucket with cold water, downed beer and Advil while soaking my foot. This reduced much of the swelling. My primary goal for the next few days would be to rest my foot. It rained off and on all night.

8/1: Drive to Green River Lakes Campground

It was nearly noon when I left, in hopes that the Green River Lake Road had dried enough to avoid muddy conditions. It was in pretty good shape, evidently having been recently graded with only a few sections of washboards. Nearly all the dispersed campsites along the river were taken by people with trailers. I found a site in the FS Campground and set up. Again I gathered cold water from the faucet and soaked my foot. The overcast and frequent rain squalls kept me from stressing my foot and I simply rested.


8/2: Rain and More Rain

I awoke to drizzling rain with the nearby mountains socked in with clouds. I needed to rest my foot anyway so paid for another night. It cleared enough in the afternoon to fish the Green River but I did not get a bite. I drove down to the boat dock where hardy kids were actually swimming in spite of the cold drizzle. I wandered around the campground looking at all campsites while kids rode by on their mountain bikes. I envied how kids seem to find fun anyplace and under any conditions. I was getting bored. I soaked my foot again; rain started while eating dinner under my umbrella. I gave up and went into the tent early.




8/3-4: Road Trip to Driggs, Idaho

By morning conditions were even worse and the In-Reach forecast showed more rain. I decided to get out before the road became impassible. All backpacking plans were delayed. I threw the soaked car-camping gear into a large garbage bag, packed up and left. When I reached the paved road with cell reception I called friends in Driggs, Idaho to see if I could visit while doing a road trip. I took a short-cut road west until I ran into the highway and headed north. There was not a single sign on the road but I deduced I was on Hwy191 to Jackson based on the traffic. The first confirmation that I was on the right road was the sign at Bondurant. It was raining but the drive down Hoback Canyon was still beautiful. It had been years since I had seen Jackson and was surprised at all the traffic and stop lights! I turned north and ran into road construction before going over Teton Pass where the rain intensified. I had forgotten- that pass is mighty steep! Driggs had also changed since my last visit and it took a few tries to find my friends’ house.

We had a great visit while it continually rained. They had lived there for nearly 40 years and said it was the most rain they had ever seen. It certainly forced me to rest my foot. A hot shower was wonderful as was real food. I slept in their over-cab camper since they were also hosting family members who were visiting. Improving weather was forecast for the next few days.



8/5: Back to Fremont Lake Campground

I left mid-morning, filled up with gas, and drove back to Pinedale. I decided to play tourist and take a route I had never driven. I turned south to Swan Valley and up past Palisade Reservoir and along the Snake River. Rain had ended and puffy clouds lingered. There seemed to be a campground every few miles. Lots of rafters were going down the river. Short of Jackson I turned south and back up the beautiful Hoback River.

While driving I debated what to do next. I was reluctant go to back up to Green River Lakes since the northern Wind Rivers forecast was for more rain than down south. I settled on something out of Big Sandy Trailhead. That road also became muddy an impassable in rain. When I reached the junction to Pinedale, I checked out the nearby Warren Bridge BLM campground on the banks of the Green River but campsites were exposed. With afternoon storms still predicted the safe bet was to return to Fremont Lake, where access was on a paved road and campsites were sheltered among trees. I would drive to Big Sandy the next day and figure out details based on weather.

I replenished my stash of beer and bought some fresh food in Pinedale. I did not dally in town because it was Saturday and I needed to get to the campground before all first-come sites were taken. I was back at my Site #10, set up the soaked car-camping tent, downed two cans of beer and soaked my foot in a tub of cold water. Just like clockwork, late afternoon rains began. Although there are fish in Fremont Lake, between the rain and howling winds, I did not even try.

Rain can sort of ruin a trip at times cant it?
And a leg injury? Bummer

I pulled out a map to follow this itinerary as I dont know it like others.
Europe Canyon is a place I would like to visit.
Maybe even next year.

Nice TR.. I loved the close up of the sage hen.

You always show great pictures of trout, wildlife and scenery. Thank you so much!
You finished this trip just as I was starting my what-ended-up being the Cook Lakes Loop trip, beginning 8/3. Trust me, the weather only got worse!
My brother and I are contemplating a shuttle through the Europe Canyon area, starting at Elkhart Park and finishing at Scab Creek or Boulder Lake. So many lakes and routes in the more southern sections to choose from.
Anybody know of a shuttle service that could transport us from Scab Creek/Boulder LK to Elkhart Park?

The Great Outdoor Shop in Pinedale (they have a website) has a shuttle service. Check and see if still the case. I have used it and although expensive for a solo hiker, it was high quality service. If you come in from Elkhart, I would take the more scenic higher route (Highline/CDT) trail and not the Lowline Trail, unless you specifically want to fish the lakes along the Lowline Trail. The trail down to the Boulder Lake Trailhead goes through a historical burn area. The Boulder River, once you get down to it used to have good fishing, but I have not fished it in 40 years. The Pinedale Game and Fish office is a good source of fishing information. They have a fishing guide online. You can also pick up a free paper copy at their office or across the street at the Bridger FS office.