High Sierra Topix

Having reconsidered my ambivalence about posting a report for this old trip, I felt the need to dust off some photos from 2018 and attempt to whip them into shape.

Photos (mostly mine; a few taken by my son) are concentrated mainly within Center Basin itself, as many of you have hiked Bubbs Creek enough to have this area burned into your brain. Also, I linked a few very short videos; hopefully not so many that you find them annoying.

I did this trip with the younger of my two sons; his typical adventure mode is different than mine; he favors things like Whitney as a day hike, or camping in Havasupai, or motorcycle (or bicycle) road trips, so I was especially pleased to have him join me on this trip.
One-way mileage to our camp at Golden Bear Lake (per my saved GPS tracks) was 18-ish miles with close to 7200’ elevation gain over two days; a feat which I doubt I could perform today.

—- Day 1 —-

Leaving early from the Roads End trailhead to try and beat the heat, we endured the flat slog at the beginning and made it up the initial group of switchbacks in decent time. This is a tough climb, but the magnificent views helped move us along. Eventually, we hit those pleasantly-shaded forest sections (I love those fern-populated stretches), the trail threading between those two unforgettably house-size boulders, and so on.

Eventually, we achieved this day’s goal of making camp at Junction Meadow. After setting up and getting dinner out of the way, I did manage to find some things to like about this place -

Mt Bago, looming over our nice camp site


some tall trees in Junction Meadow


another so-so view from our camp


—- Day 2 —-

Got up, did camp things, and got moving. Nothing too remarkable about our morning. But we did find the steep climb eastward (from Junction Meadow) to be memorable, for the strenuous effort required as well as for its outstanding views. We also encountered a trail crew doing extensive work on some of the water bars and retaining features along the way.

enjoying a fine morning on the Bubbs Creek trail

but there’s nothing like a little variety in the weather

As the last photo shows, the sky had clouded up considerably by the time we joined the JMT. Upon reaching the upper Vidette Meadow area, we stopped for a nice break along the creek. Moving on, we began to anticipate the (unmarked) turnoff toward Center Basin; keeping some tips on its location (gleaned from previous TRs) in mind. But most maps at that time depicted the junction 200 yards or so north of where it was in reality; I assumed the map was accurate and unwisely started heading us uphill and east-ish, on a course which would never intercept the actual trail, had we blindly stuck to it.

After weaving back and forth up a forested slope for maybe 1/4 mile, we were tired, discouraged and had resigned ourselves to return to the JMT and make camp. Taking one last shot, we veered south, and fortunately picked up the old trail to Center Basin. MUCH easier travel over more reasonable terrain brought us to the broad flat wetland/meadow area of the lower basin; we picked our own way around various ponds and ribbons of the creek, as the old trail (as plotted on my GPS map) didn’t always appear to be the easiest way.

By now, we had been getting light rain off and on, but not so much that we got soaked. We now had a great view of Center Peak, which I found to be wonderfully imposing -
(video):
https://flic.kr/p/2o4y9fH

and a similar view of Center Peak, looking across a large pond/lakelet downstream of the actual lake -
Center Peak

Soon, we reached Golden Bear Lake itself -

a light rain falls on Golden Bear Lake

Finding a relatively sheltered spot under some Whitebark Pines, I set up my tent (and my son his hammock), then rested and wandered around for a bit. The rain and mist added a bit of interest to our setting-

(video)
https://flic.kr/p/2o4xEff

misty view of Center Basin Crags

We didn’t know what the weather would do, so we went ahead and had our dinner (sitting in our rain jackets) while enjoying a bit of bourbon. Eventually, the rain stopped and we got a beautiful clear sky -

Don’t like the weather? Just wait a couple of hours.


sunset glow

We spent a nice night here, apparently the only people in the immediate area.

—- Day 3 —-

During the night, we had both been awakened by a tremendous rumble from somewhere across the lake. The rain also resumed for a while, with lots of lightning to our west. Over breakfast, we discussed what had obviously been a large rockfall off Center Peak and also guessed (correctly, as we later learned) that we had been spared from a much worse rain event elsewhere. While we sat, a couple of people walked past us (at a distance); we thought they might set up camp further along the lake shore, but then we never saw them again.

Today was a layover day, so we headed off for a day hike toward Lake 11,785’, and maybe further if we felt like it.

We had beautiful clear weather
sunny meadow, heading up the basin from GB Lake

a nice uphill stroll


here are a couple of videos showing the views heading up the basin, with the second one showing our approach to Lake 11,785’ -
https://flic.kr/p/2o4uRji

https://flic.kr/p/2o4xEgn

We arrived at the lake, took a nice long break, and just enjoyed the views … although my son did do his “naked jump into the icy lake” thing and got it on video for his Instagram

Anyway, here is what we saw (of the lake):

break time at Lake 11,785’

yes, I very much liked the color of this lake

Junction Pass is up that ridge somewhere

the very nice-looking outlet stream from Lake 11,785

… and of course fed my “video of moving water” obsession …
https://flic.kr/p/2o4suFE

Eventually, we needed to get back to our camp -

heading back down the basin

Center Peak reflection

wow, this lake has some moods

sunset-lit glacial polish

Basically, it was a near-perfect day.


Day 4

Describing our return trip, I’ll try to speed up a bit.

Moving back down the Bubbs Creek trail, we enjoyed views in a different light than we had experienced them heading up -

Vidette Meadow

Continuing on, we observed that this area had received MUCH heavier rain than we experienced (during the lightning event a couple nights ago); this (sadly) had washed out much of the hard work we had seen the trail crew finishing up on our Day #2 ascent. Later on, we heard that flooding had done some road damage around Cedar Grove Road itself.

When we reached Junction Meadow, we wandered over to check out the crossing of Bubbs Creek here, as a East Lake & Lake Reflection had originally been our possible alternative destination. Once we saw the high/fast flow, we decided that neither of us would have wanted to cross in this condition.

We reached Charlotte Creek, made camp, and had some more nice evening views:
Charlotte Dome, from our camp at Charlotte Creek


Day 5

An uneventful day, as we made quick progress down toward our starting point. Reaching the flat sandy-slog section, we were in “just get it over with” mode, until we finally had a bear sighting:

(video)
https://flic.kr/p/2o4suKT
… you can hear my son’s note of irony of the situation, but on reflection, seems like actually the most logical place to spot a bear, especially a “collared” one.

I'm not sure if I love the after-storm views more than I hate rain on the trail... Either way, made for some awesome shots. Thanks.

Fantastic short trip, and such nice images of it! Thanks for cranking out a perfect Trip Report for our winter doldrum period. Your trip had it all grampy-- all kinds of weather, giant forest (Love those first 2 images!), beautiful streams and lakes, stunning peaks, and craggy ridges.... and a Bear at the very end! You lucky _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ! When, Oh when will I see a Bear Again?!

On the wildlife-- did you see or hear Rattlesnakes in the rocks of that first rise, on your first, or and last day? In one of your images, I think I saw one of the nets in the Center Basin lakes. When I was there, I saw many hundreds of Yellow-legged Frogs jumping from the lake edge into deep water, which was pretty amazing. Did you guys run into them?

Your photos are all so nice, we have to comment on our favorites. Lizzie's is "Sunny Meadow," and I admire so many, but "Sunset Glow" is such a great composition, and has so much in it! We wish we were there with you guys.

One other question, how does your son like the hammock set-up? I know there are a few die-hard hammockers at HST, but I tried using them here and there, and found sleep hard to come by. I imagine the bourbon helps your son?

Thanks again for a wonderful, and entertaining Trip Report grampy, Ian and Lizzie.

Thanks for sharing this. Agree, great photos, the lighting you capture really brings them to life. (i always struggle to capture what my eyes are really seeing). Center Basin is one of my all time favorite places. Not only is Golden Bear as lovely as you show, but for relatively modest effort you can have it all to yourself.

Thanks for this awesome TR and photos.

When one heads south on the JMT along Bubbs Creek, finding the turnoff to Center Basin definitely can require focus. As one approaches the approximate location of the turnoff according to the maps, be on high alert for a bear box about 50 yards off the trail in a large camping area on the right. THE BEAR BOX IS THE KEY LANDMARK.

Starting from the bear box, return 50 yards up the obvious access trail from the bear box/campsite back to the JMT. Turn left on the JMT and walk seven yards. Look to the right and the start of the Center Basin Trail is obvious.

If one misses the bear box initially and instead encounters the Frog Rock positioned on some slabs in an opening on the right off the trail, head back 100 yards. If the Frog is also missed (too much bourbon?) and Center Basin Creek is approached, head back a couple of hundred yards.

Jim

Was that a net line in Golden Bear Lake, photo 7? I have not been there in a while but caught fish there before. Are they removing the fish?

Harlen wrote: ↑Thu Dec 08, 2022 10:05 am … did you see or hear Rattlesnakes in the rocks of that first rise, on your first, or and last day? I one of your images, I think I saw one of the nets in the Center Basin lakes. When I was there, I saw many hundreds of Yellow-legged Frogs jumping from the lake edge into deep water, which was pretty amazing. Did you guys run into them? …

… One other question, how does your son like the hammock set-up? …

Harlen -
My son likes his hammock pretty well, but it does have its disadvantages (when places without trees, for instance). He ended up buying a tent for instances when he needs it.

We didn’t see Rattlesnakes anytime on the trip. I’ll be sure to look out for them when I get back there.
I can’t recall seeing the frogs in the lake; perhaps they weren’t well (re)established yet ? I have seen them (or at least some tadpoles) in some other lakes I’ve visited.

And yes (also in answer to @Wandering Daisy - the lake was being gill-netted, so I’m guessing no more fish.

@Jim F - I think I saw the bear box tip AFTER doing the trip, but it certainly would’ve helped at the time. However, more recently-updated online maps (USFS, or anything based on “Open Street Maps”) show the turnoff in its correct location.

And thanks all, for your comments; I’m glad you enjoyed it.

grampy.....Thanks for this and your other recent trip report too!

As mentioned your photos are just great. The clarity and size really make me feel like "I'm there in them" which is just what I need as mountains winter withdrawal sets in.

I was going to explore Center Basin when on my "Monsoon" trip to Milestone Basin in July-August this year but missing the supposed trail junction off the JMT tired me out even more than I already was. Thus energy was limited for exploration, but your extensive photos have given it a second wind. Excellent!
If you are bored though, (as you seem to be pretty proficient with computer things) could you post a 'snipped' image of the actual trail junction location on a CalTopo (or other map) with an embedded arrow (like c/o Paint 3D) pointing to this elusive highway - right where it meets the JMT? I sure was looking for it in all the right places but never did see it and would like to know.

Thanks! ~ Michaelzim

@michaelzim -
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