High Sierra Topix

Old Trip Report: Emigrant Wilderness; Sept. 22-27, 2008
59 miles, 6 days

There seems to be a lack of trip reports lately, so this is an old trip I did that was similar to my recent Emigrant trip. Both were late season. Emigrant is a good location for late season trips.

After my recent trip in Emigrant I was curious how it compared to a similar trip I did the end of September 2008, a 99% snowpack year with the previous year (2007) snowpack at 46%. 2022 is at the end of three very dry winters, but the summer was monsoonal with some rain. The “bathtub” rings on the lakes seemed similar for both years. In spite of the snowpack difference 2008 photos do not seem that different than 2022 photos. I do recall streams ran a bit deeper.

Although the central loop of both trips was similar, the 2008 loop was from Kennedy Meadows instead of Crabtree. I did not fish on the 2008 trip and put in some long days, averaging about 12 miles per day the first five days and a short 1.5 mile exit on day 6. I do not think I have posted this trip before. It is interesting to compare the 2022 and 2008 trips.


9/22/08 Kennedy Meadows to Emigrant Lake
12.3 miles, 8 hours, 3965 feet gain.

Camped on Sonora Pass, I awoke to sub-freezing temperatures and a howling wind, making the original plan of entering on the high ridge (PCT) a chilly choice. I drove back down the road and set foot on the crowded, dusty trail from Kennedy Meadows to Emigrant Lake. Unknown to me, it was opening day of hunting season and clouds of dust choked me every time horses passed. I simply made miles and arrived at Emigrant Lake exhausted.



9/23/08 Emigrant Lake to Peninsula Lake
10.2 miles, 7 hours, 1340 feet gain



Crowds thinned, but the dust remained. Nevertheless, I found Maxwell Lakes very beautiful. The “use-trail” up to beautiful upper Twin Lakes was grueling. The “trail” to Lower Twin Lakes was non-existent, and the “route” to Peninsula Lake marked on the Emigrant Wilderness hiking map a hideous bushwhack clamoring up steep rock and sticker bushes. All effort was worth it when I reached stunning Peninsula Lake, had a great bath, and saw absolutely no sign that a horse was ever up there.

More photos at Peninsula Lake


9/24/08 Peninsula Lake to Latora Lake
8.0 miles, 7 hours, 1360 feet gain


There had to be a better route down from Peninsula Lake. I climbed the small saddle, past Bear Lake and dropped into the drainage from Big Island Lake which I regret not taking the time for a side trip to the lake. The off-trail area around Peninsula lakes appears to be little used and although there may not be fish would be a wonderful area to explore.

Descending this valley was delightful with small ponds, smooth glacial polished granite slabs, past Fawn Lake and more pretty little ponds. From the small ponds north of Fawn Lake I turned east over the ridge and dropped to the trail just below the outlet from Huckleberry Lake.


So far a good day, but after lunch, troubles brewed. There supposedly was an old trail that crossed Cherry Creek and then went due north past several lakes to Latora Lake. Frustrated after not finding the trail junction after going up and down the trail, I gave up and walked the trail along the southeast shoreline of Huckleberry Lake to the inlet camp area, waded across the creek and took the trail to beautiful Latora Lake. The trail was delightful- an intricate route up granite benches. I wanted to camp off the trail so wove through complex terrain and around rock buttresses half mile to a wonderful campsite on the south shore. I had the lake to myself for a wonderful evening. The weather had held and it was another beautiful totally clear fall day and I slept well.

9/25/08 Latora Lake to High Emigrant Lake
13.5 miles, 8.5 hours, 2410 feet elevation gain


My goal was Middle Emigrant Lake. After not finding the od trail to Latora Lake I decided to just take a longer route using the maintained trails to Buck Lakes instead of the trail shown on older maps that goes directly from Cow Meadow Lake to the west end of Emigrant Lake. Besides, I did not want to miss Buck Lakes! At beautiful Buck Lakes I met three older guys on horses (nice guys, good horsemen) who were not hunting but just fishing. After going up the hefty hill to the west end of Emigrant Lake, the trial along the north shore was wonderful. Having already spent a night here I wanted to continue to Middle Emigrant Lake. The miles to Blackbird Lake were then only repeat miles of my “figure-8” loop. Arriving at the lake, I was surprised at the low water level; the lake was half gone! The wind was howling.



So on to Emigrant Meadow Lake I went. Guess what? The wind was worse and not a tree in sight anywhere near water! Well, let’s try High Emigrant Lake. This was the last straw; I had no more energy left as I trudged slowly uphill off-trail. I found a nice camp sheltered by scrub timber, took a bath, rested and had enough energy for a mile after-dinner photo hike. I slept well.

9/26/08 High Emigrant Lake to Wilderness Boundary via Kennedy Lake
13.8 mile, 8 hours, 1295 feet elevation gain

On day five, I entered a different world. After four days of granite cliffs and pretty little lakes, I crossed over into the volcanic peaks and climbing to over 10,000 feet as I walked a moonscape. Although late in the season, springs seeped and the landscape was rust and black punctuated with green. The trail is actually an old mining road, up and over Big Sam.


From the headwaters of Kennedy Creek, I descended a use-trail. Looking down, Kennedy Lake was like a blue gem. Then I ran into a hunter camp complete with garbage, a rotting deer carcass and flies. Ugh! Then I reached Kennedy Lake. Cattle grazed, all the springs were quagmires and the lake was full of algae and not fit to drink. The air smelled of manure. Double Ugh! The view was superb. The “good” juxtaposed with the “ugly”.

My plan to camp at Kennedy Lake was crushed. This is one of the most magnificent of the North Sierra valleys, but each successive meadow that I crossed going down the valley had been stripped and covered with cow pies. The trail became inches thick of powdery horsy dust. Every campsite that I considered was already filled by hunters. I blindly put one foot in front of the other and camped off the trail just at the wilderness boundary, a mile and half from the trailhead.


It was tempting to go out, but I would just spend money on campground fees, a few beers, and a dinner. It actually was a nice site, and I jumped in the river to wash off the dust, cooked my last meal and crawled in my sleeping bag. After this day, I should have slept well, but did not. But the star gazing was great.


9/26/08 Out to Kennedy Resort
1.4-miles, 1 hour, 170 feet elevation gain

I was up and out to my car by 9:00. The RV campground at the lodge smelled like a sewage plant. The pitiful thing was that as I walked the last horse-poop filled mile of trail/road, I met two families with small children who were going fishing. Yes, this trail is a fast way to get into Emigrant Wilderness but a horrible place for a family outing post-grazing and during hunting season.

Overall it was a good trip, if I discounted the “ugh” moments. Horsemen and hunters have a place in the wilderness, but the cattle grazing, is over the top. I am not sure Kennedy Creek is actually within the wilderness boundary, but it should be. If this is the price of eating beef, I will do without.

PS: Kennedy Lake and Canyon are worthwhile backpacks, but go early in the season, BEFORE the cattle go in. If doing the route above early season, be aware that the Kenedy side of Big Sam can have steep snowfields on the road and crampons may be needed.