High Sierra Topix

Emigrant Loop from Crabtree TH (9/29/22 to 10/04/22)
45 miles, 6 days

Two trip options were considered, Pioneer Basin and Little Lakes Basin or Emigrant, with a preference for the Rock Creek loop. Weighing extra gas costs and annoying costs of separate permits needed for Mono Pass and Little Lakes trip against being able to drive to the Pinecrest FS office, get my permit, no cost, and be on my way in Emigrant, swung the balance towards Emigrant. Additionally, forecast temperatures would be high 60’s in the day and not much below 40 at night; no need for shoulder season extra gear/weight. After a summer of putting up with mosquitoes, it was a joy to bathe in warmer water and sit out in the sun to dry at leisure with no bugs and no need to retreat into the tent! There were not even flies, just some tiny gnats in the trees at dusk. I heard a few mosquitos, evidently a few from a new hatch after the recent rains.

I intended to loop from Kennedy Meadows but was told that “all creeks are dry”. To play it safe I went in from Crabtree where there were plenty of lakes along the route. I was annoyed to later learn that the FS field people knew that most creeks were running and the front desk never got that information. Nevertheless, it was a good trip although I had to delete Lewis-Ice Lakes.

Weather was absolutely perfect, skies absolutely clear, a gentle breeze was appreciated while walking and I nearly had the place to myself. In spite of late season, vegetation was a mix of typical fall colors and some still green grasses. Although not “big peaks” the scenery was lovely.



Day 1, 9/29. Crabtree TH to Piute Lake + drive
7.5 miles, 5.3 hours, 1850 elevation gain

With a late start from home and being stuck behind logging trucks I did not get to the trailhead until 10:30. Once at Camp Lake, I realized I forgot the map that covered the terrain west of Gem Lake. Having done the route before it was not a big problem and the new signposts helped. Nobody was on the trail the entire day. Creeks were still running but low enough to hop rocks. The trail looked like it had been recently worked on which I appreciated. I had previously been here early season when the trails were hard to follow, being covered with some snow and lots of deadfall.

I hoped to minimally reach Piute Lake and optimistically Deer Lake. Reaching Piute Lake at 4PM I found a site and set up leaving time to bathe and wash a shirt which dried before the sun went down. I wanted to eat dinner in daylight so did not try to fish. A group of three was camped across Piute Lake. Not sure what I did, but I vaguely remembered slipping when gathering water and by the time I cooked dinner, a sharp pain hit my right lower right back when I bent down and progressively got worse. Difficult not to bend down when camping on the ground!



Day 2, 9/30. Piute Lake to Buck Lakes + fishing
6.7 miles, 5.6 hours, 1030 elevation gain

By morning my lower back was really hurting. Amazingly, the pressure of the backpack was therapeutic. Other than when I had to bend, walking actually felt good, although taking the pack off was painful. When I had to step up, leading with my left foot was necessary; a bit awkward since I normally lead with my right foot but soon got the hang of it. Cherry Creek was a step- across on some rocks. I took short side treks at Gem Lake and Jewelry Lake for photos. The only part of the trail that was confusing was at Deer Lake where, somehow, I missed the junction for the trail going north. The creek at that point required a short detour to avoid wading.


I took a short break for a snack at the Wood Lake-Buck Lake trail junction. The trail climbs a bit before dropping towards Buck Lake where a signpost points the way to Lower Buck Lake. I considered several sites and set up at noon across the outlet of the upper lake. Setting up the tent was quite painful. Since I was alone, I felt free to loudly vocalize and cuss while in pain. In retrospect the site before the outlet would have been better for morning sun.

The afternoon was spent fishing; the complex shoreline of Lower Buck Lake an hour and half until 3PM then the east shore of the upper lake from 4-5PM. I did not get a bite or see a rise at the lower lake, likely because it just was not the right time of day. I could see rises at the upper lake and managed to catch a fish (nice size but not huge) only to have it get away as I tried to land it. I also fished the southwest shore where fish were rising but beyond my cast. Given the conditions spin fishing would have been more successful.

My back was hurting again at dinner and hoped I would not have to bail out and go back to the car. I enjoyed sunset sitting on the shore rock slabs as many ducks and geese flew overhead. Between the ducks, geese, and other birds it was a noisy night.

Day 3, 10/01. Buck Lakes to Emigrant Lake + fishing
7.3 miles, 6.9 hours, 970 elevation gain

The pain was still there but not as sharp in the morning. Again, taking down the tent was agonizing. About a third of the way up the west shore of Upper Buck Lake a slide board in a closed fence gate stuck so I had to roll under the fence and drag my pack behind me. All that hurt a quite a bit and I was glad to get my “therapeutic” pack back on. Crossing Buck Meadow Creek one foot got a bit wet since there was about an inch of water running over one of the rocks. Then it was steady uphill switchbacks in a deep forest, thankfully with lots of shade.

Once on top the trail drops to the northwest corner of Emigrant Lake where I ate lunch. The trail runs about a mile below the north shore cliffs with few campsites. I found an established site up from the trail once it dropped to the sandy shallows of the inlet lake/swamp/meadow. Bending to set up the tent was still painful but getting better. Four fellows walked by on the trail below without seeing me. After a rest I walked back about a third of the shore and started fishing. Casting was a challenge since there were few clear areas for the back cast. I caught a few bushes and a tree as I slowly worked my way back towards camp.


Returning to camp there was a geese convention with a lot of ruckus. I bathed and sat on a warm flat rock watching the geese. Soon ducks arrived and there were more squawks and quacks. Added to this symphony were the very loud flaps of a flock or medium sized gray birds and the ever present chatter of squirrels. I love to hear the chatter of wildlife and especially birds.

Later in the afternoon I walked over to the south shore which was cliffy with numerous ups and downs. I fished a bit, never saw a rise or got a bite and gave up. Views from south side were superior for photographing. I hoped I could short-cut the inlet meadow but the creek was too wide and deep so had to go back to the trail to cross (hop across on gravel). Back in camp two gals hiked by below me, again not seeing me at all. I made a point of not getting in the tent until 7PM which gave me enough time to organize before dark. An almost half moon shone. The bird symphony went on for hours.



Day 4, 10/02. Emigrant Lake to Latora Lake + fishing
9.3 miles, 6.3 hours, 1250 elevation gain

I awoke just at dawn and my back felt much better. I walked down to the meadow to verify that it really was frost I saw on the grass. The ducks and geese were still there. I decided to continue as planned, returning the longer route via Huckleberry, Latora, Cow Meadow and Wood Lakes. I needed to minimally reach Huckleberry Lake where I hoped to find a campsite on the north shore. I was not sure if I would stop to fish along the route or not. I left at 8:15. Blackbird Lake was shallow so I continued down to Maxwell Lake and took a break just before the trail drops to Horse Meadow. I walked over rock slabs down to the shore and took photos but did not fish. I regret not also dropping the short distance for a better photo of Horse Meadow.



The approximate three miles to the inlet to Huckleberry Lake was surprisingly beautiful. The East Fork of Cherry Creek flows down a canyon, dominated by Sachse Monument to the northwest. Sachse Monument is so close that I had to merge several photos; the result is a bit skewed The upper part of the trail is an old road full of cobbles which made for slow going. Just after the trail junction to Twin Lakes there is a long diagonal crossing over boulders and I imagine it would be difficult at high flows. The trail then traverses high above the creek through beautiful open forests of large trees. The trail actually was muddy and wet above numerous seeps on the southeast hillside. At one point I was walking through head-high bushes.


Above the inlet area of Huckleberry Lake there is a huge established campsite, obviously used for large horse groups. I ended up in a rat’s maze of trails and it took some wandering around to finally find the crossing, the only creek I waded (ankle deep). The plan was to find campsite on the first broad peninsula about half a mile further. I left the trail and followed a use-trail to the water’s edge and ate lunch. It was not what I had envisioned from looking at Google Earth! The shore was all cliffs and impenetrable brush with plenty of trees that blocked back casting. Campsites were marginal and surrounded by stagnant pools. As much as I wanted to catch supposedly big fish in Huckleberry Lake, it looked futile.

Being early, I continue to Latora Lake, where I had camped before but not fished. Thank goodness the trail was in good shape and well-marked with cairns as it meandered through very cliffy terrain, taking odd turns along very improbable routes at times. Lush vegetation was mixed with granite cliffs and beautiful little ponds. I suspect it would be a bug-fest earlier, but in the fall it is delightful.


Years ago I camped on the east side of the mid-south shore arm. This time I found a use-trail to the west side of the arm where there was a perfect campsite with a huge flat rock that allowed me to cook without bending down! Before setting up I tried to get over to the side where the fishing would be easier, but ended up to be too much effort. After a bath and washing clothes I fished both sides of the peninsula west of my camp, without a bite or rise. I gave up and explored all the little nooks and crannies taking photos. After dinner, just as it was getting dark and the bright half-moon shone, fish started jumping just minutes from my campsite. I had put my fly rod away and it was basically dark. At least I know there are fish in the lake; good information for the future.

OK. I got a bit crazy about taking photos at Latora Lake!

Day 5, 10/03. Latora Lake to Grouse Lake
10.1 miles, 6.8 hours, 1060 elevation gain


The “plan” was to fish Cow Meadow Lake, return to fish Lower Buck Lake and end up camping at the outlet of Wood Lake, with a long next day back to the trailhead. When I realized I would have to drive Hwy 49 in the dark (my night vision is terrible) and did not have enough food to camp at the trailhead, I decided that afternoon hours walking would be more productive given the poor luck I had early afternoon fishing. I would aim to get to Grouse Lake, but if the fish were calling at Wood Lake, I could stop there. So I left Latora Lake at 8:15AM with no set plan.


It was a short drop to Cow Meadow Lake which surprisingly had frost on the grass in spite of its 600 foot lower elevation. I did not see any fish rising but took several photos. Soon I hopped rocks across the North Fork of Cherry Creek. The trail then switchbacks up the hill 500 feet to the Lower Buck Lake trail junction, which somehow I missed. Wood Lake is a mile-long lake, shaped like a dumbbell, with wider parts east and west and a narrow connector. The shallow connector is full of lily pads and shoreline cliffs which are very photogenic in the ideal morning light.



Nearing the outlet I spotted fish rising. I was SO tempted to stop! It was not even 11AM. Although My back was better but not fully recovered I suspected there would be water at the other crossings if I needed to stop before Grouse Lake. The trail crosses the creek just below the Wood Lake outlet and shortly crosses back. This was trivial in the late season but likely would be difficult at peak runoff. The trail then contours well above the drainage; I could hear water flowing all the while. The trail steeply drops to cross after a bit over a mile. Previously, in early season the crossing was very difficult; mid-thigh and raging. Now I could hop across on rocks, but the flow was still more than a trickle. There was a campsite here if I wanted to stop.



As I sat down to lunch two pack trains of 6 mules/ one wrangler each and a supervisor on the last horse came down the trail and crossed. It was a Forest Service crew who were taking in supplies for the Snow Survey Stations. I asked about water in the lower creeks and they said all were flowing- the big storm two weeks earlier really dumped. I had crossed these creeks upstream on my way in and now I knew they were also flowing on my exit route. That was a big relief. I continued down, actually thankful for all the mule tracks and droppings, since the trail gets a bit confusing down at the crossing of the West Fork of Cherry Creek, a part of the route that I lacked a map.

Groundhog Meadow is not a meadow. Piute Creek was gurgling along and there was an established campsite there too. Shortly the trail crossed a stagnant pond and I had to throw some logs in the water to cross. On the other side I heard a bark and soon came upon the dog and older man with an old external frame barely loaded. I told him of the flow in the creeks and he thanked me for the information, not sure of where he would end up camping. Shortly I met a young couple going in. They were chattering to each other and did not even say hello to me.

The next stretch of trail was boring with lots of dead trees. However, the steep drop into the Grouse Lake valley was quite impressive both because of views and the trail’s rockwork. When At 3PM when I reached the east side of Grouse Lake my heart sank- it was shallow, ugly with marginal camping. I walked out to the shore and found nothing inviting. Continuing down the trail to the west end, there was a lovely but illegal campsite (closed to restoration). Several legal campsites were above the trail where I found one that was not full of horse poo or dead trees that could crush me if they fell. I set up and then walked down to the lake shore where there was an amazing green grass bank and beautiful lily pads in the lake. I washed myself and clothes and just sat there in the sunshine enjoying everything. Given the time of year I was amazed at how quickly everything dried.

Back at camp I put the fly rod together and went back to fish. It was challenging between the small space for back-casting and the one small area of water that was not covered with lily pads. Shortly a big fish hit and pulled the line with amazing strength. It was a smart fish; it quickly swam towards me leaving slack in the line, then darted back, breaking the line between the knot and the fly. Hard to say but I think it was at least a 16-inch fish if not 20-inch. After half an hour without a bite all I caught was the tree behind me and lost another fly. I gave up, went back and cooked mashed potatoes without fish, not a very satisfying meal. But I did have extra dark chocolate and plenty of what now is my favorite backpack drink- hot spiced NIDO with Bengal Spice tea. I was also happy that my back was nearly normal by now. The tent was under a big sturdy tree, not sure what it was; sequoia? The night was quiet; no geese or ducks here.



Day 6, 10/04. Grouse Lake to Crabtree TH + drive
3.8 miles, 2.0 hours, 590 elevation gain

I slept in a bit and then went down to the lake for some morning photos before breakfast. Pine Valley had lots fairly young trees (probably planted after a fire?) as well as dead and recently downed trees, most cut and shoved off the trail. Lily Creek was flowing. The trail junction back to Crabtree had a new signpost. The trail did not seem to be exactly as shown on the old USGS topo; more and longer switchbacks. After 500 feet gain I reached the Camp Lake trail junction and dropped down the trail I had come in on to the trailhead. A couple was day-hiking up to Camp Lake. I was out by 11AM; there were only a few cars in the parking lot. The drive was pleasant and I was home by 3PM.

The trip was pretty devoid of wildlife, except the ducks, geese, and other unidentified birds, one lizard, squirrels, tiny gnat like insects in trees and a few bees. I saw no sign of deer and only one old pile of bear poo. I was entirely alone for two days and most people I encountered were on the last two days. Given the wonderful weather I was surprised that there were not more people.

I devoured your report, WD. I've never been in Emigrant except in the early summer, you inspire me to consider it for later trips. When I am fully retired and liberated from the school year I can consider September trips. Thanks so much for posting yet another informative and interesting report.

I hiked parts of your route on two separate trips I took earlier this year, and found myself nodding in agreement at many of your descriptions and observations.

I also crossed the outlet from upper Buck to camp on the east side of the outlet and I also thought I might have been better off if I had not. There is a huge horsepacker camp over there on a mound to the SE of the lake, and the foundations of an old cabin just where the trail turns south to go to Lower Buck..

When you were hiking from Cow Meadow to Wood Lakes you say you missed the intersection of the connecting trail to Lower Buck. When I came south from Lower Buck I lost that connecting trail several times. I think the trail from Lower Buck to the intersection is no longer maintained and extremely sketchy.

Parts of the Bell Meadow trail (Grouse to Groundhog Meadow) went through a horrific windstorm and it felt like walking through a lumber yard with all the cuts that were needed to reopen that trail. The previous year it was impassable early season. And Grouse Lake was a convenient motel on the way out but not a destination lake. And then the burn zone starts after leaving Grouse. Not my favorite part of the trip.

I think my brother and I camped right where you camped at Grouse Lake, and I remember thinking that it was a juniper, which gave me some allergies. I seem to recall there was a second big juniper a little ways away too. A pleasant enough camp--although without much of a view--but near that very green meadow leading to the lake.

Here is the route shown on two maps


And another view of Upper Buck Lake at the location where I got water next to my campsite

This buttress on the north shore of Emigrant Lake is just east of my campsite. I always thought it would be a nice rock climbing route.


These photos show the level of water in the creeks- low but still enough to gather water or camp nearby.


And crossing above the inlet to Huckleberry Lake

And the North Fork of Cherry Creek above Cow Meadow Lake

Great report, Daisy.

Yes, that's a juniper--some amazing specimens in Emigrant and nearby, I including the oldest one!. I love your route. Latora may be my pick for the most rewarding/beautiful lake in the Sierra. And while I, too, have heard stories about the fish in Huckleberry, I haven't seen any proof, at least on the end of my line. That camp near the inlet is a mess, and that old cobbled road is one of my least favorite sections of trail.

Campsite at Grouse Lake are best on the granite bluffs above the south shore. A trail across the west end outlet gets you over to them.

Thanks for helping me take a trip down memory lane...

balzaccom wrote: ↑Fri Oct 07, 2022 8:48 pm Great report, Daisy.

Yes, that's a juniper--some amazing specimens in Emigrant and nearby, I including the oldest one!. I love your route. Latora may be my pick for the most rewarding/beautiful lake in the Sierra. And while I, too, have heard stories about the fish in Huckleberry, I haven't seen any proof, at least on the end of my line. That camp near the inlet is a mess, and that old cobbled road is one of my least favorite sections of trail.

Campsite at Grouse Lake are best on the granite bluffs above the south shore. A trail across the west end outlet gets you over to them.

Thanks for helping me take a trip down memory lane...

Balzaccom, there are big fish at Huckleberry. I have caught them. The last time I was there was 2009. The trick is to get to the islands and fish from there. There are mostly brookies and rainbows and good sized average 13-16 inches. I have never fished Cow Meadow but I heard there were large fish in there too but not as big as Huckleberry. Huckleberry and big Emigrant lake are some of the best self-sustaining fishery in the Sierras. Both lakes are very large for Alpine lakes(around 200 acres) and have good inlets for spawning.

WD, thanks for sharing your TR. Its excellent as always. You should write a book, I would purchase it.

Texan

Great Trip! Glad you got the weather you wanted, and sorry for the back, and lack of fishing. I wonder about traveling cross country down Maxwell Lake to Letora, or thrashing straight down to the inlet of Huckleberry? Didn't you say once that the bushwhacking can be hard around Letora?

I have a question about your fly rod; can you switch to spinning lures easily, or does that entail removing all of the fly-line gear? Thanks, Ian.

Paul writes:

And while I, too, have heard stories about the fish in Huckleberry, I haven't seen any proof, at least on the end of my line.

Here's a few decent size fish-- both Brookies and Rainbows:

That's a standard pie-tin -- pretty lightweight frypan.

The rod is strictly a fly rod. I could put a lure on the leader instead of a fly. I have done that before but just did not think about bringing some small lures with me this time.

I have x-c traveled from Maxwell Lake to the dam at Emigrant Lake past Shallow and Frazer Lakes. It was quite complex- had to do a lot of ups and downs over rock slabs to avoid thick brush. Just getting from one arm of Latora Lake to the adjacent one is difficult. All the terrain around Latora Lake is really difficult. There supposedly is an old trail that goes from the outlet area of Huckleberry Lake due north to Latora Lake. I tried to find it once and never could. There also is an old trail from Cow Meadow Lake up the drainage to the Emigrant Lake dam. I have found a faint start of that trail above Cow Meadow Lake but did not go very far.