TR: 2022 Wind Rivers Trip 4 Loop from Green River Lakes TH
Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2022 3:43 pm
Wind Rivers 2022 (7/14/22 to 8/26/22)
Trip 4: Green River Lake CCW Loop (8/15-23, 2022)
66.7 miles, 9 days
The original plan was one I would not do solo and included the high remote bench between the Green River and the Continental Divide, focusing on fishing Bear Basin and exploration and photographing headwaters of Tourist Creek including Scott Lake. Many options to loop back to Green River Lakes were possible. My friend had to cancel last minute so I scaled down the route with a new focus on fishing although I did not go through “hot” fishing areas. I was kind of obsessed with getting more out of my $130 fishing license! After only three fish to this point, the additional 23 fish brought it down to $5 per fish. After getting caught in the severe storm last trip, I was a bit gun shy of more difficult routes since the monsoonal weather pattern was not ending yet. I had many options and would make decisions as the trip progressed. Some of the planned miles were new to me and much I had not been on for many years.
Note: I used the In-Reach to record times, thus MDT.
Day 1, 8/15. Trailhead to Porcupine Creek at 9050
8.5 miles, 5.5 hours (fording the creek twice), 1545 elevation gain
I left the Fremont Lake Campground about 7:45 after a rainy night. The car camping tent was soaked so I threw it in the car. I stopped at the Forest Service office in Pinedale and I hung the wet tent on open car doors, ran into the office to change into my hiking clothes in the bathroom and pick up a copy of the Bridger Forest fish directory.
It took only 2 hours to drive to the trailhead, a speedy rate thanks to recent road grading that smoothed out washboards. All the drive I was debating if I would go clockwise or counter clockwise. At 10:30 I started down the Highline/CDT with the idea of a clockwise loop. A side-trip to Slide Lake the first night would somewhat compensate for deleting the most spectacular part of the loop. I turned off the Highline Trail, walked a mile up to cross Clear Creek. The bridge I used in the past was washed out and the water swift and high. At 11:30, disappointed, I turned back to the CDT, crossed Clear Creek on the big bridge and then a large bridge across the Green River. I took a short cross-trail to intersect the Porcupine Trail, one of the few I had never been on.
I now was back on the counter-clockwise loop, with four more miles than if I had simply taken the Lakeside Trail from the trailhead. Switching to the opposite loop was mostly a coin-toss in my head. The advantage of this was that I should have good weather while on the high-altitude New Fork Plateau where I wanted to stay two days; the disadvantage was the brutal, steep, thousand-foot gain right of the bat.
It WAS a brutal ascent! I met two bare-chested fellows who were descending. It was humid and hot and sweat was running down their skin. The look they gave me was full of pity; they knew what I yet had to ascend. I wore head-net when resting but thankfully did not need it while walking. At the top of the ascent, I waded across Porcupine Creek. There was a nice campsite and meadow at the Twin Lakes trail junction. Twin and Shirley Lakes, 2 miles and 1150 feet higher were supposed to have cutthroat trout. I was tempted but the logistics were awkward; it was too much for me to do on the first day and would set me back a day if I did it the next.
I continued up the trail. Porcupine Creek meandered mainly in thick forest with the occasional large lush meadow. Shortly I had to wade across again. At 9,000 feet the valley became essentially flat with trees to the left and the creek flowing through a large meadow to the right, occasionally braiding. I met a couple who were also going down the trail. Most backpackers seemed to choose to go down Porcupine Creek. The trail then bumped up against the creek where there was a large established campsite.
Wisely I stopped at 4:30 (next day I found out there were no campsites for several miles). The sites under the thicket of trees were creepy and dark. First I strolled over to the creek, bathed off all my sweat and gathered water. Walking back to my pack I found a bear spray can that someone had left and put it back up by the trail. Unwisely I set up out of the trees on the edge of the meadow. As cheery as the site was in the evening, by morning it soaked my tent with dew.
Day 2, 8/16. Porcupine Creek at 9050 to pond above Kenny Lake
9.2 miles, 7.9 hours, 3000 elevation gain
I left at 7:30 and on the way to Porcupine Pass I waded across creeks twice. After my dunking last trip on an easy rock-hop I preferred simply wading which also justified carrying the Crocks. Porcupine Creek was more timbered than I expected and views to the impressive surrounding cliffs were limited until up onto a bench just below the pass.
From this bench I could head east, off-trail to Kenny Lake and get some great views of the back side of Squaretop Mountain. I left that for another day and continued on the trail, up the switchbacks on an exceedingly steep slope, relieved to top out on the gentle plateau at 11:30. I ate lunch admiring the view. It took a little over an hour to drop 1500 feet down Dodge Creek to the New Fork Trail. There is little flat ground along the trail but looked like nice camping if you went down along the creek. I turned up the New Fork Trail and took a break at one of the many switchbacks. A couple came down the trail and we chatted a while. It was very hot and I took off one layer. Clouds were building so the next two hours was a race with the incoming storm. I did not make it all the way to Kenny Lake, but bolted into the first sheltered campsite at a small pond just above Kenny Lake. I quickly set up in the rain and threw the pack inside the tent. It was the typical 30-45 minute storm.
I walked down to Kenny Lake and fished when the storm subsided. A group was camped at the other end of the lake and a few folks were out wandering on the shore. Kenny Lake was a fine lake for fishing even if the fish were only 10-inch brook trout- perfect pot size. They literally jumped at my fly! Well, evidently previous fishing failures were not due to my inept casting or ratty old fly. I caught five fish and quickly set them in the little pond next to my campsite as another round of showers started. I was tired of tent time so sat out this storm under trees. Thinking the storm was over I went to the pond to clean the fish and got rained on anyway. During the next brief break, those nasty mosquitoes sprouted out of nowhere when I started cooking dinner. Again, I ate supper walking in circles. It cleared up for nice sunset views of Kenny Lake.
Day 3, 8/17. Kenny Lake to Hidden Lake
4.4 miles, 6.1 hours including fishing, 1060 elevation gain
This turned out to be a delightful day. It was humid and I had to pack up a wet tent, which seemed to be unavoidable. I left at 8AM, before the sun hit my site. The trail to New Fork Pass is well maintained, first dropping to a lush grassy valley with several shallow lakes. I saw fish rising on one of them. It is then a moderate climb back up to New Fork Pass, a location ideal for great evening photos of sunset on the Divide and Gannett Peak. Being morning the light illuminated the less spectacular terrain to the west. I left the trail and took a break at a small pond I had camped at years ago. The group camped at Kenny Lake walked below, not noticing me.
The off-trail route to Hidden Lakes is over easy terrain but micro-navigation is tricky. Having done this before, I recognized the key locations where one has to change directions to reach the flat high meadow (really a swamp) north of Hidden Lakes. I ate lunch on top of the small “pass” with a fine view of my destination. I dropped to the lowest and largest of several Hidden Lakes. There were several good options for camping and it took me half an hour to check them all out. I set up on a nice grassy spot above a little bay close to the south end early afternoon.
The afternoon was occupied with fishing and day-hiking. Frustratingly, I got my leader totally tangled and took nearly half an hour fixing that mess before I could get started. I then caught a nice fish right below camp, cleaned it, put it in my pot, and set it under water with a rock on top. I dropped down to the next lake which is one of the Thompson Lakes, completely circled it fishing with no luck. After a break from fishing exploring many little nooks and crannies, I walked over to the bay on the north shoreline of Hidden Lake and caught three bigger fish. All were brook trout. I had a great fish dinner!
Throughout the day the sky was full of huge puffy cumulous clouds that enhanced photos. The terrain is mostly a flat granite plateau with small hills and several pure blue lakes surrounded by lush grass, the upper set referred to as Hidden Lakes and the lower as Thompson Lakes. It is not spectacular scenery but very “pastoral”, until one reaches the edges. At the western and northwestern edges, cliffs plunge 2000 feet in Palmer and New Fork Canyons. Kenny Lake where I was day before could be considered the northern part of the New Fork Plateau which also ends at cliffs plunging down to the Green River. To the south the plateau somewhat continues with many more high lakes, including No Name Lakes and Cutthroat Lakes, eventually plunging into Pine Creek Canyon and Fremont Canyon.
Trip 4: Green River Lake CCW Loop (8/15-23, 2022)
66.7 miles, 9 days
The original plan was one I would not do solo and included the high remote bench between the Green River and the Continental Divide, focusing on fishing Bear Basin and exploration and photographing headwaters of Tourist Creek including Scott Lake. Many options to loop back to Green River Lakes were possible. My friend had to cancel last minute so I scaled down the route with a new focus on fishing although I did not go through “hot” fishing areas. I was kind of obsessed with getting more out of my $130 fishing license! After only three fish to this point, the additional 23 fish brought it down to $5 per fish. After getting caught in the severe storm last trip, I was a bit gun shy of more difficult routes since the monsoonal weather pattern was not ending yet. I had many options and would make decisions as the trip progressed. Some of the planned miles were new to me and much I had not been on for many years.
Note: I used the In-Reach to record times, thus MDT.
Day 1, 8/15. Trailhead to Porcupine Creek at 9050
8.5 miles, 5.5 hours (fording the creek twice), 1545 elevation gain
I left the Fremont Lake Campground about 7:45 after a rainy night. The car camping tent was soaked so I threw it in the car. I stopped at the Forest Service office in Pinedale and I hung the wet tent on open car doors, ran into the office to change into my hiking clothes in the bathroom and pick up a copy of the Bridger Forest fish directory.
It took only 2 hours to drive to the trailhead, a speedy rate thanks to recent road grading that smoothed out washboards. All the drive I was debating if I would go clockwise or counter clockwise. At 10:30 I started down the Highline/CDT with the idea of a clockwise loop. A side-trip to Slide Lake the first night would somewhat compensate for deleting the most spectacular part of the loop. I turned off the Highline Trail, walked a mile up to cross Clear Creek. The bridge I used in the past was washed out and the water swift and high. At 11:30, disappointed, I turned back to the CDT, crossed Clear Creek on the big bridge and then a large bridge across the Green River. I took a short cross-trail to intersect the Porcupine Trail, one of the few I had never been on.
I now was back on the counter-clockwise loop, with four more miles than if I had simply taken the Lakeside Trail from the trailhead. Switching to the opposite loop was mostly a coin-toss in my head. The advantage of this was that I should have good weather while on the high-altitude New Fork Plateau where I wanted to stay two days; the disadvantage was the brutal, steep, thousand-foot gain right of the bat.
It WAS a brutal ascent! I met two bare-chested fellows who were descending. It was humid and hot and sweat was running down their skin. The look they gave me was full of pity; they knew what I yet had to ascend. I wore head-net when resting but thankfully did not need it while walking. At the top of the ascent, I waded across Porcupine Creek. There was a nice campsite and meadow at the Twin Lakes trail junction. Twin and Shirley Lakes, 2 miles and 1150 feet higher were supposed to have cutthroat trout. I was tempted but the logistics were awkward; it was too much for me to do on the first day and would set me back a day if I did it the next.
I continued up the trail. Porcupine Creek meandered mainly in thick forest with the occasional large lush meadow. Shortly I had to wade across again. At 9,000 feet the valley became essentially flat with trees to the left and the creek flowing through a large meadow to the right, occasionally braiding. I met a couple who were also going down the trail. Most backpackers seemed to choose to go down Porcupine Creek. The trail then bumped up against the creek where there was a large established campsite.
Wisely I stopped at 4:30 (next day I found out there were no campsites for several miles). The sites under the thicket of trees were creepy and dark. First I strolled over to the creek, bathed off all my sweat and gathered water. Walking back to my pack I found a bear spray can that someone had left and put it back up by the trail. Unwisely I set up out of the trees on the edge of the meadow. As cheery as the site was in the evening, by morning it soaked my tent with dew.
Day 2, 8/16. Porcupine Creek at 9050 to pond above Kenny Lake
9.2 miles, 7.9 hours, 3000 elevation gain
I left at 7:30 and on the way to Porcupine Pass I waded across creeks twice. After my dunking last trip on an easy rock-hop I preferred simply wading which also justified carrying the Crocks. Porcupine Creek was more timbered than I expected and views to the impressive surrounding cliffs were limited until up onto a bench just below the pass.
From this bench I could head east, off-trail to Kenny Lake and get some great views of the back side of Squaretop Mountain. I left that for another day and continued on the trail, up the switchbacks on an exceedingly steep slope, relieved to top out on the gentle plateau at 11:30. I ate lunch admiring the view. It took a little over an hour to drop 1500 feet down Dodge Creek to the New Fork Trail. There is little flat ground along the trail but looked like nice camping if you went down along the creek. I turned up the New Fork Trail and took a break at one of the many switchbacks. A couple came down the trail and we chatted a while. It was very hot and I took off one layer. Clouds were building so the next two hours was a race with the incoming storm. I did not make it all the way to Kenny Lake, but bolted into the first sheltered campsite at a small pond just above Kenny Lake. I quickly set up in the rain and threw the pack inside the tent. It was the typical 30-45 minute storm.
I walked down to Kenny Lake and fished when the storm subsided. A group was camped at the other end of the lake and a few folks were out wandering on the shore. Kenny Lake was a fine lake for fishing even if the fish were only 10-inch brook trout- perfect pot size. They literally jumped at my fly! Well, evidently previous fishing failures were not due to my inept casting or ratty old fly. I caught five fish and quickly set them in the little pond next to my campsite as another round of showers started. I was tired of tent time so sat out this storm under trees. Thinking the storm was over I went to the pond to clean the fish and got rained on anyway. During the next brief break, those nasty mosquitoes sprouted out of nowhere when I started cooking dinner. Again, I ate supper walking in circles. It cleared up for nice sunset views of Kenny Lake.
Day 3, 8/17. Kenny Lake to Hidden Lake
4.4 miles, 6.1 hours including fishing, 1060 elevation gain
This turned out to be a delightful day. It was humid and I had to pack up a wet tent, which seemed to be unavoidable. I left at 8AM, before the sun hit my site. The trail to New Fork Pass is well maintained, first dropping to a lush grassy valley with several shallow lakes. I saw fish rising on one of them. It is then a moderate climb back up to New Fork Pass, a location ideal for great evening photos of sunset on the Divide and Gannett Peak. Being morning the light illuminated the less spectacular terrain to the west. I left the trail and took a break at a small pond I had camped at years ago. The group camped at Kenny Lake walked below, not noticing me.
The off-trail route to Hidden Lakes is over easy terrain but micro-navigation is tricky. Having done this before, I recognized the key locations where one has to change directions to reach the flat high meadow (really a swamp) north of Hidden Lakes. I ate lunch on top of the small “pass” with a fine view of my destination. I dropped to the lowest and largest of several Hidden Lakes. There were several good options for camping and it took me half an hour to check them all out. I set up on a nice grassy spot above a little bay close to the south end early afternoon.
The afternoon was occupied with fishing and day-hiking. Frustratingly, I got my leader totally tangled and took nearly half an hour fixing that mess before I could get started. I then caught a nice fish right below camp, cleaned it, put it in my pot, and set it under water with a rock on top. I dropped down to the next lake which is one of the Thompson Lakes, completely circled it fishing with no luck. After a break from fishing exploring many little nooks and crannies, I walked over to the bay on the north shoreline of Hidden Lake and caught three bigger fish. All were brook trout. I had a great fish dinner!
Throughout the day the sky was full of huge puffy cumulous clouds that enhanced photos. The terrain is mostly a flat granite plateau with small hills and several pure blue lakes surrounded by lush grass, the upper set referred to as Hidden Lakes and the lower as Thompson Lakes. It is not spectacular scenery but very “pastoral”, until one reaches the edges. At the western and northwestern edges, cliffs plunge 2000 feet in Palmer and New Fork Canyons. Kenny Lake where I was day before could be considered the northern part of the New Fork Plateau which also ends at cliffs plunging down to the Green River. To the south the plateau somewhat continues with many more high lakes, including No Name Lakes and Cutthroat Lakes, eventually plunging into Pine Creek Canyon and Fremont Canyon.