High Sierra Topix

Yosemite North Rim to Tenaya Lake, exit Snow Creek
May 15-21, 2022

On Friday I was all packed and had a phoned in permit for Emigrant Wilderness on Saturday but was unable to get reliable information on creek crossings. Friday afternoon I decided to look at “first come” permits in Yosemite and was surprised at how many were available. I quickly got a 5-night, 6-day permit for a loop including the North Rim, up to Teyana Lake and return via Sunrise Lakes and cross trail to Merced River. Definitely a bit ambitious, so in “comments” on the permit, I wrote in “may have to bail back via Snow Creek trail”, which is what I actually did. Yosemite walk-in permits can only be obtained 3 days in advance so I would have to wait to start on Monday. The backpack offered a wilderness experience; spending the night before and after in the Backpacker’s campground offered unmatched photography wandering in unmatched beauty, albeit a bit civilized.


Day 0: 5/15. Drive, get permit, and walking in Yosemite Valley

I left home about 10:30 AM and picked up my permit at the Big Oak Entrance Wilderness Office, with the warning that my route may not go, which I was fully aware of. It was late afternoon before I parked at Curry Village and got setup in the Backpacker’s Campground, which was almost empty. Just a week and half later than my previous trip, I was amazed at how much the foliage had come out and the lushness of all vegetation. Mosquitoes were just a bit pesky and dusk. I lazily wandered down to Yosemite Falls and when back to the campground a fellow had set up nearby. He was going to fish up at Merced Lake so we shared fish stories. Weather was perfect.


Day 1: 5/16. Yosemite Falls TH to Lehamite Creek +side hikes
8.7 miles, 8.8 hours, 4635 feet gain

I walked back to Curry Village to get my car, drove to the Yosemite Lodge parking lot and after some indecision I ended up carrying micro spikes and rain jacket that I did not use and deleted wading shoes which I could have used! Oh well. On the trail at 8:15 it was thankfully still cool as I trudged up the trail along with many day-hikers. It was good to be going “with the flow” as only a few early birds were coming down. I did not stop until at the base of Upper Yosemite Falls, which is always such as spectacular rest-stop. I leapfrogged with a family all the way up; they walked faster but took a lot of rest breaks. Near the top the mother was ready to quit but I gave her some encouragement that the viewpoint up top was well worth the effort.

I was supposed to camp at the confluence of Eagle and Yosemite Creeks, but the trail was a mess. After tripping on a log, falling on my face and scraping my arm, I gave up and turned back, crossed the bridge and debated illegally camping on the east side up the creek at nice site I had used before. It was still early so I continued up the trail. Then next water was Indian Canyon Creek. Although there were scenic but dry campsites before dropping to the creek, I was not too keen on hauling water back up the hill. I easily crossed without wading. The trail to Lehamite Creek was horrible- too many downed logs to count and through an ugly burn. At the junction with the trail that cuts up to Tioga Road, I found an established campsite, set up, took a nice bucket bath. Walking back to my tent noticed a huge pile of fresh bear poo that I failed to see before. To be safe I cooked dinner about 200 feet from my tent. After dinner, giving myself a half-hour turnaround, I walked the trail high above Lehamite Creek (I had never been on this trail). It too was in horrible condition and not very scenic either.




Day 2: 5/17. Lehamite Creek to East Watkins Buttress
9.7 miles, 7.4 hours, 3475 feet gain

Thankfully, no bear came to visit in the night! At 7:45 I crossed the creek on a log and was happy that the trail condition as well as the scenery improved. Royal Arch Creek was an easy step-across. I took a rest at the junction with the trail to North Dome. I had been to North Dome before so decided to skip this side trip. The trail up to Arch Rock was hard to follow, but pretty obvious so finding the exact trail really did not matter. On the short side trip to Arch Rock, I met two trail runners; evidently the North Rim Traverse becoming a popular running route.



So far no snow at all! Once down the three-way trail junction at Snow Creek, a few patches of snow appeared. It was interesting that the lower I walked down Snow Creek the more snow covered the trail. The location of snow had more do to with being in thick timber than elevation. At the falls before the confluence with the main branch of Snow Creek, I stopped and talked with a group of young folks doing the North Rim the opposite direction. Next rest and snack was at the Snow Creek Bridge.



There were only a few small snow patches all the way up to the Mt Watkins saddle. I found a little seep/spring near the top and carried up 4 liters of water. I had camped on the top of the East Buttress before but this time it was windy so picked a site in the timber just short of the top. There was a small snow patch nearby so I solar melted some for wash water while I wandered out to the end of the buttress taking photos. Last time I was here there was a little seep in the gully; this year it was bone dry. From inside the tent I watched the fading light on Clouds Rest. Later in the night the breeze was a bit nippy so I closed that door and opened the downwind door. The full moon was bright enough that I used my sleep mask.

Day 3: 5/18. East Watkins Buttress to Tenaya Creek + side trips.
7.4 miles, 7.0 hours, 860 feet gain

Although this was the least mileage and elevation gain day, it was the hardest! Since I thought this would be an easy day, got up later than usual. A doe with two fawns cautiously wandered nearby while I ate breakfast. I started walking at 8:45.

Unexpectedly, the part of the trail that first traversed the steep slope was snow-free, yet once in the lower elevation flats in deep forest, almost half the trail was over snow. After wading across an unnamed creek, the forest became open and the trail was mostly dry. At a small pond I lost the trail and went up the wrong gully; realizing my mistake and came back down, finding the trail. This trail is well maintained and big so it is evident when you miss it and need to correct. Just below Olmstead Point the trail drops down into what looked like a mess. I quickly turned around and found a short easy use-trail that went up the road embankment and at 11AM ate a snack at Olmstead Point as many cement trucks roared down the road.

I descended the stairs to the trail junction with the trail I was supposed to take (it is technically illegal to leave the trail and go up to Olmstead Point). As the trail descended towards Tenaya Lake it became a nightmare obstacle course of snow, swamps, and flooded meadows that became lakes. It did not help that the signs were confusing. Soon I felt like I was going in circles in the deep forest, thankful to navigate by the rumble of cement trucks that I knew were on Tioga Road. After nearly two hours of bumbling around, I ended up at Tenaya Lake and ate lunch among pesky marmots. I walked a fisherman’s trail to the outlet, which although deep was not swift, so I probably could have crossed, but on the other side were huge snowbanks. My desire to finish the route was about zero at this point.



I regret not spending more time enjoying Tenaya Lake. I had a plan to stealth camp on Tenaya Creek if I were unable to cross so headed back, soon again losing the trail. Totally frustrated I returned to the road and walked the shoulder, flagging down a construction truck to ask if I could walk up the road until I got out of the “swamp” zone. They said OK; I love construction guys! Where the trail to May Lake crosses the road, a trail drops down the embankment. I descended slabs to the bottom, just short of the small unnamed lake half mile east of Olmstead Point.

At this point in the day I could not make it out of the “illegal camp” zone no matter what so kept with my “plan B” and made an attempt to reach Tenaya Creek due east of the little lake. I walked northeast on slabs with a water-filled slot to the right and finally found a crossing. Rounding the nose of the rocky outcrop I dropped to the banks of Tenaya Creek. Downstream about a quarter mile I found a great well-hidden campsite by mid-afternoon. I luxuriated on a slab of granite with feet dangling in the water, scooped water with my cook pot and dumped over me and washed socks and shirt. Weather was perfect with a slight wind and no bugs!

I walked up and down the creek on a faint use-trail which abruptly ended with a large sign warning of the need for climbing gear to continue. In the late 1990’s I actually lead a CMC group down Tenaya Canyon in October when water was very low (but on the other side where there was the same sign). We zig-zagged down slabs adjacent to Pywiack Falls, camped at the jump off point under a full moon, replaced bolt anchors at the last rappel and continued right down the middle of the streambed. Unfortunately, I had no camera at that time so, no photos.



Day 4: 5/19. Tenaya Creek to Mt Watkins Saddle + day hikes
9.9 miles, 6.1 hours, 1715 elevation gain

This was my easy day. After breakfast I walked downstream again and up onto the rock rib to the southwest to a fine viewpoint before leaving camp at 9:30 and retraced my route. I ran into a young fellow who was camped on the trail just below Olmstead Point. He had stayed on the “legal” trail instead of going up to Olmstead Point, and said it was horrible. He hoped to do the same route I had initially planned. I told him what I ran into and wished him luck.



I reached the Mt. Watkins saddle at 12:30, then hung my pack in a tree and climbed the trail up to Mt. Watkins, where it was quite windy. Back at my pack I had to decide if I would camp here or go down and camp near the Snow Creek Bridge. The view and opportunity to wander out on the East Buttress again won. I set up my tent and then walked down to get water at the little seep/spring. There was a nice little pocket catching water that I could actually scoop up water and take a bath! Luckily nobody came up the trail at that time.


About an hour later two guys arrived and camped nearby on the saddle too. I told them about the better view out on the East Buttress, and they went out to enjoy the view but decided to return to the saddle where it was less windy. They too were going to try to cross Tenaya Creek, go up to Sunrise Lakes and then over Clouds Rest with side trip up Half Dome and out to Happy Isles. Then a group of five jolly fellows arrived and were going to camp on top of Mt. Watkins. I was headed back to the East Buttress for late day photos and recognized Swedish spoken (my grandparents and mother spoke Swedish and although I know few words the rhythm of the language is very familiar). We had a discussion about immigrants at the time my grandparents came to America.

After retiring into my tent at dusk, one of the fellows camped nearby, informed me that a bear had come very close to my tent. Nice to know but I do not know what I would have done differently. The bear ran off and never even played with my bear canister.

Day 5: Mt. Watkins Shoulder to Yosemite Valley + retrieve my car and other day-hikes
14 miles, 7 hours, 230 feet gain (4580 feet loss)

I left camp at 6:45 and was very careful to set a pace to be easy on old knees. There were very few people going up the Snow Creek trail and did not run into anyone until half way down. Mirror Lake was very pretty. I reached the backpacker’s campground before noon, set up and rested a bit before walking to my car at Yosemite Lodge. I forgot to bring my mask, so was not allowed to get on the shuttle bus.


Shortly, I came to the first of two bridges across the Merced River in a bend near the Ahwahnee. It is such a fluke when one stumbles upon accidents. A few minutes earlier or later and how different it would have been. An overturned bright yellow inflatable kayak flew under the bridge, two people in the water holding on to leashes, each tethered to white dogs. I did not see the third person, who may have been with the kayak. I did not have a phone; I said to the people next to me that they were in big trouble. A ranger truck arrived as the overturned kayak and overboard occupants careened around the bend.

I walked to the second bridge where two of the occupants (father and son) managed to hit the rocky bank. The kayak with one dog on top flew under the second bridge. The son was screaming for help. I ran down to the bank along with several others. His father was lifeless; we managed to get him up onto the bank and two stronger fellows began CPR. It did not look good. There was one spark of hope when the father’s mouth opened and water came out. It seemed like forever, but the medics arrived. The poor son was agonizingly distraught. Medics asked that we all dispersed the scene. I overheard that the mother was, thankfully, picked up on another bank. I could not imagine the poor son losing both parents.

Leaving the scene of the accident, I held a small hope that the father could be revived. I walked on very aware of the sublime beauty of Yosemite, pleasant cool breeze and preciousness of life juxtaposed to sorrow and death. Emotions would bounce back and forth between deep sorrow and joy of life. It certainly was nothing like I had ever experienced before. At the Yosemite Lodge eating area I washed up with soap and hot water before retrieving my car and driving back to Curry Village to park.

Perhaps it was somewhat of a desire to balance the day’s tragedy that I picked up two crazy young foreign climbers who, after some language misunderstandings, conveyed that they were off to do Snake Dike on Half Dome. They wanted to hear about Camp 4 in the “Golden Years”. I had been there in 1969 on Spring break from University of Washington and in 1971, hitch-hiking from Wyoming. And yes, those days were crazy. The fellows stunk to high heaven just like the “dirt-bags” of the old days and were so very full of life, hopes, and confidence; just like I was at that age! I deposited them closest to the Happy Isles trail as I could drive, and then parked at Curry Village and walked back to the backpacker’s campground. Later a helicopter flew out of the Valley.

In the evening I walked around and took photos.



Day 6. Photograph from El Capitan Meadow and drive home

I left the next morning and stopped at El Capitan Meadow to take some more photos. At the Big Oak Entrance I stopped at the Wilderness Office and asked about the accident. I told the ranger I was there. He then said he was only allowed to say there was “a fatality”. I talked with him for a while, telling him what I knew. Although an enjoyable trip, it was a sad ending. So far I have not seen anything in the media or on the internet of the drowning.

Great trip report, but sad ending.

thanks for posting

I now consider the climb up Yosemite Falls with a full pack beyond the outer limits of my endurance so I am really impressed you were able to do it. The base of the upper falls really is a spectacular rest stop. The Tenaya Creek campsites looks lovely and the Watkins saddle site spectacular.

That’s extremely traumatic to have been there for the accident. The memory of those kind of experiences never disappears. Your description of emotions bouncing “back and forth” is quite poignant and touching. And the “two crazy young foreign climbers” at the end made me recall some of the crazy things I did when I was young. Thanks for sharing!

What a great early season trip except for the accident. Last year when we were at Glen Aulin and there was a fatality at the falls everyone in our group had ups and downs until we saw the helo fly over and we all spoke of gratitude, Then the helicopter flew back over with a body bag hanging below on it's way to Mammoth. The rest of the evening was very solemn.

I did part of this same loop right after you: May 20 up Yosemite Falls – May 22 down Snow Creek. Camped at Lehamite Creek as well and saw the bear scat. Perfect hiking weather. Thanks for the report.

OMG @Wandering Daisy I am so sorry that you witnessed that horrible tragedy and hope that you are not getting nightmares. I would. Poor family! How awful!
Thank you for the trip report and letting us know of the trail conditions. Beautiful pictures!

WD,

I left the next morning and stopped at El Capitan Meadow to take some more photos. At the Big Oak Entrance I stopped at the Wilderness Office and asked about the accident. I told the ranger I was there. He then said he was only allowed to say there was “a fatality”. I talked with him for a while, telling him what I knew. Although an enjoyable trip, it was a sad ending. So far I have not seen anything in the media or on the internet of the drowning.

My source finally just confirmed that the father, unfortunately, did not survive.

So very sad. I happened across a fatal accident a few years ago, although I did not know that it was a fatality until returning home. Also a drowning, which by far is the leading cause of death in the backcountry. A deeply unsettling experience for me that grew more unsettling over time, and a catastrophic experience for a family. I hope WD that you are truly OK and will proactively take care of your own emotional well being.