High Sierra Topix

I am planning a long trip mid june through July with a lot of flexibility in dates and whatnot. I'm trying to tie together various dream trips I've wanted to do for a long time and try something a little different. The trip will be a mix of high route off trail stuff which I truly love, but I'd like to do some exploring of various valleys/lakes and mountains that don't necessarily follow a linear route and that I normally have to skip for lack of time or trying to get somewhere.

I'm hoping to get advice from others who have done these long trips on rough time estimates, resupplies for these more granular routes, and some advice on linking some sections and areas I'm unfamiliar with. The central Sierra is the part I'm wholly unfamiliar with between say Kings and DPP. The route broadly would start in southern sequoia/inyo and end in northern Yosemite/toiyabe. I'd prefer to go North to South to pace myself a bit and start with easier stretches but think snowise the reverse makes sense? I'm trying to string together some places I've been near but never done:

cottonwood/langley - Whitney
kaweah basin, 9 lakes basin, then head north following roughly the kings canyon high route
Ionian basin, evolution basin
clark range, cathedral range with Hutchins/lyell and bench canyon (and ideally Donahue and blacktop peak areas across the way)
sawtooth ridge and the border of hoover and Yosemite

Resupplies would be via friends if I could convince them to do a week in shifts with me, reds meadow, muir ranch, tuolomne. Others are possible too if need be.

Any suggestions?

What level of backpacking experience do you have?
Level 4- Comfortable with trail and/or x-country travel

What terrain are you comfortable/uncomfortable with?
- Class 1 terrain/trail hiking
- Class 2 terrain/pass/x-country
- Class 3 terrain/pass/x-country
- River crossings
- Snow travel/Glacier crossings

What is your main interest?

- Big Mountain scenery
- Photography

How many miles did you want to do a day, any layovers? off trail 7ish, on trail 12-15

Have you hiked at elevation before? Any prior issues with Altitude Sickness? Yes and yes, but only if not acclimated

Thanks!

Hi tnh,
It sounds like you'll have the time and resources to lose yourself in some spectacular areas, and even if you cannot find friends to help with re-supply, my guess is that with careful planning (and some long days on trail), you could make do with diversions to shops at Cedar Grove, Florence Lake and Reds and Tuolumne Meadows to replenish. That said, you're going to face some long days and relatively challenging terrain early on, so some pre-acclimation may be a good idea. I'll babble on with a few observations on the route and places I'd definitely prioritize:
Cottonwood entry to enter Kaweah basin from the East: basically just a long haul that if you read some of the advice Maverick has given others about the most effective way to reach the basin from the Kern-Kaweah valley, you should be fine. An early crux decision you'll face will be getting out of Kaweah basin into 9 lakes basin with your primary option being Pyra-queen pass. If it looks sketchy, you'll need to travel further north to Pants pass which is probably similar on the difficulty index. If you don't want to risk either of those options, the last time I was in that area, I exited the northwestern end of the Kern-Kaweah basin by going over the ridge that offers access to the eastern approach to Triple Divide pass (and it was easy). This route bypasses 9 lake basin, but still takes you through some spectacular (and remote) terrain. You'll encounter far fewer folk there than in 9 lakes basin.

Once past the Kaweahs, I'm surmising you'll make your way down Deadman or Cloud canyon and into Kings canyon via Avalanche pass. The last time I visited the lodge at Cedar Grove, the market did not have a great diversity of foodstuffs, so it might be good to call to find out whether they are an option for re-supply. If not, it is a good spot to have a pal available for re-stocking. I'm then presuming you're going to mostly do Roper's route to get into Marion Lake basin, the Dumbbells and over to Amphitheater via Cataract col. For my money, I'd divert for a day or two into the upper reaches of Amphitheater basin. It's simply stunning/magical. From there you get the classical passage beneath the Palisades and up toward Muir pass at which point you need to decide whether to loop into Ionian basin via Black Giant pass or Nietzsche col. And whether you want to return to the JMT via Wanda col or visit lake 10212 and do Reinstein pass to get to Martha Lake. Regardless of how you do it, it will be magnificent. And none of those routes are particularly querulous. By this point you'll be getting close enough to Florence to head for re-supply. From my perspective, the next segment (all the way from Florence to Devils Postpile) is not going to be as breathtaking as most of the preceding terrain. In fact, I'd be inclined to bail and re-enter on the trail to Minaret Lake or something like that and start the next phase heading for Lake Catherine, Twin Lakes, Bench Canyon, Blue Lake and Lyell Fork of the Merced (one of my favorite canyons in the Sierra). The lake below Ansel Adams peak is worth the effort all on its own. Sluggo pass over to Hutchings creek basin is also worth the effort. I have limited experience with the rest of your planned route, although I have transited high from Hutchings over to the Lewis creek basin and from there to Ireland Lake and to Donahue. You'll see very few folk on that route along with gobs of incredible sight lines (including great rear views of Half Dome). So, roll the dice and have a great time!
Cameron

Thanks Cameron! That’s excellent advice. I think I’ll skip 9 lakes basin and do it on another trip and maybe skip Langley and Whitney. For Kaweah I had a trip I had to abort last year heading in via tablelands and triple divide or Colby pass and that was largely the route I was thinking of. Skipping Pyra-queen col is appealing! Ideally I’d like to do that central section either way and search out some gems but I’m clueless to that part of the sierras so I’ll look into it more.

Hi tnh,
I was sufficiently intrigued that I started mocking out some of the long days you'll be facing and depending on how light/fast you travel, I concluded that the first segment (East side entry via Cottonwood or New Army pass; I'd do Cottonwood, it's easier and eventually winding up at Cedar Grove) is challenging but doable, while the second segment is going to push it to the limits (meaning it might be best to cut out some areas and have more time in the iconic spots).
Here's my thinking: regardless which way you access Kaweah basin from the East, you'll get there no sooner than day 3 (unless you fly). And it's really worth killing a full day in that basin. From there it's a solid day's hike to do Picket Guard pass and then climb the ridge leading out of Picket Guard basin that sits between the peaks labeled 3773 and 3759. From that ridge it's a straightforward stroll to the lake I mentioned earlier (near the mile 8 marker on the HST map) in the upper Kern-Kaweah valley. I'd spend the night there (good camp spots) and then head up to the permanent snowfield (on the map, at least) due North of the lake and traverse over to the low point on the ridge that will give you access to Triple Divide Pass. Glacier Lake is a rubble pile, but someone cleaned out one nice pad, if you decide to stay there. Otherwise, you can begin jamming down Cloud canyon. If you put in a LONG day, you could get all the way to the meadow that will give you head on views back at the Whaleback (very dramatic). From there, it's a straightforward trail trek over Avalanche pass and down to Cedar Grove and re-supply.
The real fun starts on the second leg: regardless how you cut it, it's a long grind up Copper creek and I've never gotten much further than Grouse Lake (or Granite Lake, going that direction). And yes, if you really kick butt, you could get to Marion Lake the next day, but I couldn't. So, realistically, figure you get to Marion Lake for night 3 (some of the long range views as you work your way north and east of Grouse Lake are beguiling). Lots of folk I know love Marion and the Dumbbells, but I like upper Amphitheater basin even more, so it's win/win whatever you do next. Even so, you're at least 4, maybe 5 nights out before you descend Cataract Creek to Deer Meadow. If you want to have time to enjoy Ionian Basin, your best bet is to head directly up the JMT toward Muir Pass and however you cut it, it's a pretty long jaunt (in other words, skip the close approach to the Palisades). And because it has always taken me longer to cover distances in Ionian basin, it's best not to skimp on the time you give yourself there. If you use Wanda Pass to exit Ionian basin, it's still a good, long hike down to Florence Lake and much of that area is "jaw drop" gorgeous, so you'll want a bit of time to swivel the gaze.

As I noted before, I'd skip the Selden-Silver Divide segment and arrange transportation to a trailhead that gives you access to the Minarets, Ritter-Banner and southeastern Yosemite. Bench Canyon, Blue Lake, the Lyell Fork of the Merced, Hutching Creek basin are wondrous and very lightly traveled.
Cameron

Hi Cameron apologies for the late reply. I was actually backpacking and just saw this. My plan was actually to try and avoid copper creek which I guess would mean backtracking on bubbs creek to Gardner basin, arrow basin etc. I think onion valley could be a good alternative especially if I can convince someone to meet me there. I would prefer to spend more time in those areas so might have to do 7 day carries which would be better at the end of the trip I think especially if I can exit at cottonwood.

I’m watching the reports and satellites and I suspect that much of the snow will be gone. A friend just did the eastern portion and said there was little snow but heard the western sides of seki are more loaded up. Any sense of that in a similar year? In terms of ice ax and spikes? If it’s looking low enough I’d probably start in Hoover instead head to tuolomne meadows and get down to the Yosemite back country that way. By mid July I’m sure it’s a non issue.

Thanks again!

Cameron has hit many of the highlights so I’ll stick with a few resupply notes. Cedar Grove Visitor Center handles resupply (at least they did through summer of 2019). I came down from Lake Reflection and hitched a ride from Roads End. That evening I hitched back and did a dusk start up Copper Creek. The only caution is it may be over 100 degrees in Ki gs Canyon so plan your hiking there accordingly.

If you choose to skip the Copper Creek section and route near the JMT, maybe have friends huff a big load over Kearsarge and join you for a few days beginning at Kearsarge Lakes or Charlotte. Or make arrangements with the Mt Williamson in Independence.

If you resupply at MTR work your way back up the Paiute Pass trail and pickup the SHR through bear lakes and follow to either Duck Pass exiting into Mammoth or continue on the SHR along the Mammoth Crest to Reds. Either way jump ahead to Agnew Meadow. However you get to Tuolumne the post office will hold a resupply (just avoid Sunday!). Don’t have experience north of Tuolumne.

Another benefit of Mt Williamson or Mammoth as resupply is the opportunity to clean up eat a couple real meals and then set off for the next week or so.

I spent a lot of time with maps and came up with a different route. I am meeting a friend 2 weeks out at South Lake and he'll join me for a week with resupplies. I'm leaning towards Onion Valley despite the limitations because it keeps me closer to where I want to be rather than the slog at copper creek that takes me a bit east or back tracking along bubbs creek. From Kaweah I'm looking at heading towards Colby pass, then taking Milestone pass and working towards Lake South America. Then I'd try Andy's Foot pass (minimal info it seems) and University pass to drop in at onion valley. From there I would do Gardner basin, leave via 60 lakes pass (king col too sketchy?), white fork creek to white fork pass, then dumbbells and amphitheater to rejoin Roper's route at South Lake. My friend wants to do the SHR from there to Mammoth where I will resupply.

The next part I am struggling with is a section I wanted to do prior but I'd like to add parts of Skurka's Yosemite high route. I have a couple options. Silver lake to 1000 island and take the SHR roughly to bench canyon, then follow Skurkas route to quartzite peak. I would then look back on trail from Merced to Washburn lakes and then try to spend a day or two in Hutching's/Lyell creek areas before crossing Russell Pass to Helen Lake and Tuolumne Meadows for Resupply. The rest of it I sort of know with northern yosemite/toiyabe, but would do a section I'm not familiar with passing Kerrick Meadow to Mary lake and ultimately PCT to Sonora Pass. That looks like a long slog and I may need to carry 10d of food for the section from Silver Lake to Tuolumne. I'd love suggestions on that bit. I'm skipping Red's Meadow to 1000 Island because I did that last year pretty extensively. Thanks again!