High Sierra Topix

I made a plan to follow wildhiker's exciting route in and around the Cathedral Range (http://www.highsierratopix.com/communit ... =1&t=22067), but after nearly a solid month with no new snowfall, the icy snow surface conditions were too challenging. I did hit some of the highlights, beginning as he did with the scenic drama of the Budd Creek trail, right up under the East Face of Cathedral Peak, and then hitting another section of his route by reaching Evelyn Lake, and the high ridge above it for a look down onto Ireland Lake. I froze some, and got blown about, but also skied in my summer shirt and a light vest on most days, and had some fires at night. No Coyotes, Hares, or Bears, though I saw many tracks. Mountain Chicadees, and Red-breasted Nuthatches were my companions, along with one Chicaree, and one Alpine Chipmunk.

I saw the winter ranger-- Rob Pilewski, in between his and his partner Laura's snow surveying tours. Per usual, I learned valuable lessons from him, this time, about how to best use my fancy new AT ski gear. Rob is one of the rare, diehard Telemark skiers, but he expressed surprise that I was still free-heel skiing on the downhills with my AT bindings. With these bindings, he said, I really should just get used to locking my heels down whenever I was going downhill. Finally locking down my heels, I made pretty good progress, linking simple turns all the way down Rafferty Creek from near Tuolumne Pass, till my thighs were burning.

He also generously offered the use of the closed ski hut. The hut is spartan this year, with most bunks and tables removed, and no food storage, but it is stocked with firewood, and the electricity is on, for emergency use. I had come in truly exhausted after 10 P.M., having pushed myself way too hard in my desire to get into the Meadows on the second day. I only managed to haul my heavy gear (48 lbs.) up as far as the top of the Snow Creek Trail on the first day. On my long day two, my pulk (sled) was taking on snow from dragging through deeper drifts, and I often just hauled it anyway, rather than stopping to clear it out over and over. I took a rest day to fix broken gear, including myself, and the rangers were fine with that. I also shoveled out steps to the hut, and dug pathways all around, and chopped wood to earn my keep. On day three I started out with the plan to take it easy, by just touring up Budd Creek and back, to enjoy the view of Cathedral Peak. However, I was drawn up to the pass right under the peak by the Mountain beauty, and by fields of fascinating, wind-sculpted sastrugi. Then I thought I might as well drop down the west side and make the circle around the amazing Cathedral Peak, one of my favorite mountains. I made this choice in part because of the tremendous wind blowing me over from the NE. Once down, I decided to enjoy the long way around Upper Cathedral Lake, which gives such a fine view of the south face of the mountain. Then I thought to finally locate Lower Cathedral Lake, so I extended my tour down to, and all the way around that big lake. When you're out there in fine weather it's easy to be pulled along, tired or not. I carried on all the way back over to the Budd Cr. side again, because of some fiery sunset colors on the Unicorn. By the time I was on my way back, it was in the dark, and I had exhausted myself again. I turned my supposed rest day into a 14 mile effort, and managed to get my first real case of snow-blindness. I learned that I have to give up on my favorite, but inadequate, "Solar-shield" sunglasses. They fit over my distance glasses perfectly, but are just not protective enough. I carry glacier glasses too, but have been slack at switching to them in high glare situations. My weak (cornea damaged) right eye suffered for it this time. Never again!

So my plan evolved from trying to complete the wildhiker tour-- back over Cathedral or Echo Pass to Matthes Lake... Nelson Lake... past Reymann Lake and on to Evelyn and Ireland Lakes, to an abbreviated version that would include those last two lakes, which I have long wanted to see. I spent the nights way up Rafferty Creek, one right above Evelyn Lake and it was fantastic.


The Valley was quiet, and the falls surprisingly full!


El Capitan.




First day hauling skis and sled is a heavy one, as much of the Snow Creek Trail is like stair-steps.




Sunset on Quarter Domes from camp 1.


Fires become more important in winter.


Snow Creek Ski Hut is currently closed. I found it, and carried on.


On the Watkins Ridge, with Tenaya Creek valley and Cathedral Peak in the distance... I just needed to get about 5 miles beyond Cathedral Peak. It looks, and really felt like a long way.


Looks like at least one Bear is out and about.


Tenaya Lake valley, all the way to Mt Conness.


Tenaya Peak hangs over its lake.

The Ski Hut, well buried.


The entrance is now dug out.


Snow for breakfast again.


Lembert Dome.


Heading up Budd Creek with the Unicorn and Cockscomb in view.


Soon Cathedral Peak appears, and dominates the upper valley.


This mountain changes as you circle it, and it has such a fine array of faces.


Blowing snow in gusts up to 40 knots, was chasing me up the slope.


The S.E. face, and buttress on the right.


   The sastrugi formations were otherworldly, and as you might imagine, make for difficult skiing.


There are many forms-- note the delicate, vertical fingers of ice.  Ice "waves" breaking into the wind are exquisite, later I found "the perfect wave."


On the west side of the saddle, with the south face seen from across Upper Cathedral Lake.

I found Lower Cathedral Lake.  You can see Cathedral Peak "sharpening," with Eichorn Pinnacle jutting out.


Lower Cathedral Lake with Echo Peaks to the right.




 Avalanche below the northern shoulder of Cathedral Peak.


Elevated Coyote tracks due to wind scouring away the less compacted snow.  The same happened to the ski tracks.




I made my way up Rafferty Creek the next day.  The first night was dead calm, so I slept out.


 View north toward Tioga Pass, with Mt. Dana to the right.


Yosemite fire level is 9,600.'


The creek showed through, so I carefully "fished out" some water.


Soon I was nearing Tuolumne Pass, with Fletcher and Vogelsang Peaks in view.

Rising up to the Evelyn plateau.






On the plateau the view became vast.  I gambled on the fallen wind, and decided to camp out in the open to keep the view. The elevation is about 10,350.'



This deep sastrugi wave and trough seemed perfect


My beta-light tarp tent tucked into it.


It's a spartan system, but has 4-season capability.


I am pretty happy with my camp.


The broad, snowy mountain is Rafferty Peak.  Wildhiker's route crosses the low point to the right-- correct Phil?


Heading up the ridge above and southeast of Evelyn Lake; I am still on a section of wildhiker's route.  He crossed somewhere along this ridge, and went over to Ireland Lake.


I stayed up there, gazing at Ireland and the new peaks; Simmons Peak is one of those in the distance, and the near peak is Amelia Earhart.

This ridge, at 11,100' is a great vantage point. I wonder if that farthest mountain to the left might be Tower Peak? (*click the image to enlarge it). Can anyone figure that out?


If you like the scenery there are several nice, sandy campsites like this one.


I skied down and around to my camp via Townsley Lake basin.


Where I found "the perfect wave."


Sunset on Kuna Crest.


All set for a cold night.  It was approximately 6º,  which is fine if I stay deep in my sleeping bag, and cinch up the opening.

Tuolumne Pass area on the way back down-- day 7.




I skied too far down lower Rafferty Creek, and had to climb back out.


Back in T. Meadows.


And back on down the road.



I skied across Tenaya Lake, which I still find slightly scary, but it is fascinating to imagine all of that water below the ice.


Mt Hoffman.









My last night and morning were beautiful.

Ian, I hate the overuse of the word epic in this day of internet. (basically something that is not repeatable) But I'll call your sojourn epic. What great weather you had albeit cold. The wind could be biting to say the least but seems you were blessed with more sun than cloudy days although clear nights are colder.... I sit here in pure joy knowing someone is out there doing it and experiencing and embracing the outdoors and making the most out of life. Cheers! Richard

Love the pictures and trip report. Thanks for sharing with us.

A lot of interesting wind-swept snow! You certainly are more cold-tolerant then me! But the photos reminded me of many winter NOLS courses in Wyoming in early 1970's where it was exceptionally cold, down to -40F at night. I can relate to your shirt-sleeve skiing: even when below 0 F we skied in our light wool union suits with wind shirts and pants. I do not suppose younger folks nowadays even know what a "union suit" is. I was surprised to see that you are using the old-fashioned Black Diamond beta. It is a classic. Snow blindness is tricky- you do not even realize you are getting it. I hope your eyes are better now.

What route did you take to go back down to Yosemite Valley?

Daisy writes:

I do not suppose younger folks nowadays even know what a "union suit" is.

I do-- a union suit is the very best form of long underwear, up until you need the use a bathroom, it then becomes the worst!

I hiked in and back via the Snow Creek trail, carrying skis and sled each way.

-40º is heinous cold Nancy! In Alaska the only time I skied any length of time in -40º was when I became excited at how easily armfuls of willow branches could be snapped off-- they were so brittle at that temp. I was clearing a ski trail, and kept working till I froze the tip of my nose! When I returned to the cabin (logging camp), the old veterans pointed at my nose and laughed. "That's gonna smart in a minute." Frost nip, not bite luckily.