High Sierra Topix

Forecast was for 20-degree night, 40 degree high and gusty winds. What was not forecast was the snow! I exchanged my usual summer clothing for shoulder season clothing, added a full length blue foam pad to put under my x-small Pro-lite, threw in a balaclava, extra socks, a fleece vest to wear while hiking and wind shirt. AND I used every bit of this!


6/9 Devils Postpile Entry Station to Badger Ponds (plus drive)
9.6 miles, 5 hours, 1830 elevation gain

I left town at 6AM, stopped at the FS Mammoth Visitor Center to check on the parking options and found a parking spot in the overflow dirt lot next to the entry station. I started walking down the road at 11:15 and was puzzled by the cars. I overheard a ranger say that some worker failed to close the gate, tourists entered, the gate was later closed, and cars that got in were now stuck. The ranger was herding all the errant cars out!


The road walk actually was quite pleasant; a steady downhill grade with great views. I managed the 3 miles to the PCT North trailhead in one hour. I had never walked the High Trail, so found it interesting. There were plenty of streamlets for water and some nice campsites, but few places that had both water and campsites. Luckily, I made good time so did not have to depend on these intermediate campsites. Two PCT hikers with their tiny packs passed me and soon were off on the horizon. It was windy and cold so steadily walking worked better than taking rest stops. A large lenticular cloud blocked the sun. As I reached the Summit Lake trail junction, big black clouds were rolling in from the west. I decided to stay on the PCT which dropped into the trees. Another PCT hiker passed me.



At 4:00 I reached the lovely little ponds north of Badger Lake. There were abundant sheltered campsites so I set up here, after much indecision (wasted time) choosing a tent site. The wind really picked up and I became chilled so put on all my clothing. I thought a hot meal would help, but that left me exposed to the wind and cold as I hid behind a rock to cook. By the time I got into the tent at about 5:30 I had a hard time warming up, even inside my sleeping bag. The smarter choice would have been to just go into the tent right away and eat trail food.

I was plenty tired so dozed off and on. It then snowed lightly for about an hour. The wind buffeted my tent. The night cleared and it got colder. I was so thankful I had my fleece balaclava in addition to my regular fleece cap and finally warmed up, with the sleeping bag hood cinched tight, only my nose sticking out. I had thoughts of walking back out!



6/10 Badger Ponds to Garnet Lake plus day hike/fishing
6.6 miles, 6.4 hours, 1050 elevation gain


It gets light mighty early mid-June on the east side! I had treated some water so put the Platypus inside the vestibule; it suddenly froze at 6AM. I poured what liquid remained then pounded the ice into small pieces and shook it out. The wind was strong all night, so in spite of the snow, the tent was dry when I packed up. Thankfully the sun hit my campsite early. Bundled up for breakfast, after I could delay no longer, I changed into hiking clothes, leaving at 8:15. Shortly up the trail two friendly trail runners with tiny fanny packs passed me. It was still below freezing and all puddles and streamlets along the trail were frozen. “Good day” they said; “damned cold” I replied as they nodded in agreement.




The 1.5 miles to Thousand Island Lake were beautiful with the morning light, little meadows and ever increasing views of Mt. Banner. The trail runners were taking a break when I arrived at 9:15. They then took off headed north over Island Pass. I have met many trail runners on the section of the PCT before, so it must be a standard run.




I stopped and spent an hour wandering the north shore and taking photos. There was one tent with occupants just crawling out. The plan was to camp and fish the lake all day, but that was based on only getting about a few miles up the High Trail the previous day. As the sun got higher mosquitoes crept out of the grass and trees. I thought the little buggers would be knocked off by the cold night. Between the mosquitoes and being early, I decided to continue to Garnet Lake. I had never walked the JMT, previously taking the High Route, and enjoyed seeing Emerald and Ruby Lake and talking to two women camped along the trail. We exchanged our cold night experiences; they were discouraged and heading to lower ground.




By noon I found a nice campsite way out on the end of the large peninsula mid-north-shore on Garnet Lake. I met another group of four walking out on my way in. After leisurely setting up, I walked down to the inlet and fished my way back for a couple of hours, with no luck. Then I fished both sides of the peninsula and caught one 12-inch brook trout for dinner. The wind was stiff, which was good for eliminating mosquitoes, but difficult for fly fishing. It was a fun day, cool but sunny with the constant backdrop of Mt. Banner and the ripple of waves on the lake.

6/11 Garnet Lake to Iceberg Lake
7.7 miles, 6.5 hours, 1505 elevation gain


I got up at dawn and photographed the sunrise from different nearby locations. The lake was rough, but the inner ponds on the peninsula offered nice calm water for reflection photos. I left at 8:15 and backtracked to the JMT up the very distinct use trail. When I arrived at the outlet, several tents were set up illegally. One group were sitting smack at the outlet, in their backpack chairs, acting obnoxious, flaunting their “privilege” to camp where they pleased, rules be damned. If this is what the JMT is like before the road even opens, I hate to think of what it is like mid-season.



After a brief rest I continued, stopping several times to photograph along the scenic south shore. Two burly guys, cussing a string of profanities, passed me. I have never understood why some people even backpack; they seem like black clouds scurrying down the trail spreading anger. Over the small pass I dropped to a meadow where the same friendly women I met were camping. We had a nice chat; they were in better spirits after a good night’s sleep and warmer weather.



As I neared the junction with the Shadow Lake trail I smelled smoke and to my right, there was an abandoned campfire, built right on the forest floor, no duff cleared away. I doused it with 8 liters of water from the nearby stream; it took all of 6 minutes. I’m not sure it is laziness; some backpackers may think letting the coals burn to ash is environmentally friendly, but they forget that this also can cause a forest fire on windy days.




I turned up the trail to Ediza Lake, choosing to wade where the trail crosses Shadow Creek instead of chancing a dubious log jam. Several tents were set up at Ediza. I had planned to camp here two nights and day-hike to Iceberg and Nydiver Lakes. The wet meadow and mosquitoes convinced me to continue up and camp at Iceberg Lake. Having never camped there, I really wanted to see if I could get some good late afternoon and early morning photos. As I headed up the trail a day-hiker was coming down and warned me that the “top quarter of the trail was snow covered” and in horrible post-hole conditions. When I reached the snow I found a suitable off-trail route and only had to walk up about twenty steps on snow.

At the lake I met a gal who stayed behind, fearing her dog would have troubles with the climb, while her boyfriend went to see Cecile Lake. I photographed Iceberg Lake and evaluated all the campsites; there are a few nice ones. Uncertain if the wind would pick up during the night, I decided to camp about a quarter mile back down the trail where there were established sites nestled in trees. It would be an easy hike back to Iceberg Lake to take photos.

I went back about five times, gathering water in addition to photographing. The lake was mostly open, a bit of ice at the far end and no icebergs. On the last time up to the lake I ran into two fellows, huge packs, eyes glued to their cell phone, trying to figure out where the “trail” was. They hoped to go to Minaret Lake but seemed to lack snow or navigation skills to do so. I told them there really was not a “trail” and getting around Cecile Lake with melt-out snow conditions would be miserable, but not wanting to stereotype them, left it to that. They said they would give it a try and back off if needed (which I think they did).

6/12 Iceberg Lake to Nydiver Lakes plus fishing
5.4 miles, 6.5 hours, 1125 elevation gain


I quickly got up at 5 AM, bundled up and walked up to Iceberg Lake.as the sun hit the tops of the peaks. Amazingly, the entire lake was lightly frozen over, except the outlet where moving water kept it open. Five tents were set up nearby, not a person stirring. Someone had piled a bundle of sticks, with a can of pork and beans, ready for an illegal fire, apparently to cook breakfast. I was a bit too early with only the tips of the peaks glowing in the sunrise.



I went back to my tent to eat breakfast, and then walked back to Iceberg Lake for more photos. The camps there were still in shadow and nobody stirred. This time conditions were better for photos. Then I went back to camp and packed up. The last trek up to Iceberg Lake had the best photos. The sun was just starting to hit the campsites; yet nobody stirred. Although it does not show well in the photos, the lake surface not covered with snow is a solid thin sheet of ice.



I left at 8:30 and dropped back down to Ediza Lake, this time staying on the trail to see just how much was actually snow covered; not much. I detoured one shady section where the snow was rock hard. I was down in less than an hour and waded across the inlet, while a couple were trying to build a rock walkway across; their buddies were climbing Mt. Ritter and they hoped to help them keep their feet dry on their return. Efforts were in vein- next day when I returned the water had risen and flowed over the little “bridge”.

I chose one of several use-trails headed to Mt. Ritter, leaving the trail before the small tarn, and followed a little stream that flowed from a melt pond on the plateau between Nydiver Lakes and Mt. Ritter. It was easy going but many detours were required around snow patches. I dropped down the south facing slopes to the north shore of the upper lake because the north facing side was covered with snow. First thing I did was take a bath and wash clothes before mosquitoes could find me! It was refreshingly chilly. My fear of mosquitoes was unfounded; there were none. I set up at an established site, a small ridge sheltering me from the direct wind off the lake.

The afternoon was delightful! I hiked down to the outlet of the lower lake where I started fishing, working my way back up past the middle lake. From the upper lake to the lower, with only a few hundred feet elevation difference, dead grass changed to a hint of green grass to nearly fully green grass and a few wildflowers at the lower lake. I checked out the supposed route that directly drops to the Shadow Creek trail but could not see an obvious route; one steep gully was snow filled. Fishing did not produce anything so I headed back up to the middle lake where I caught a fish on the east shore. After this I hooked many fish but could not land them. Same bad luck on the west shore. When will I ever learn to check my hook? Later I saw that the tip was broken off; probably would help if I wore my glasses. Once I changed flies, I caught five more quickly, enough for dinner.



The fish were small, from 6-9 inches, but with heads and tails off, fit perfectly in my 6-inch pot. Dinner was cooked hiding behind a rock near the outlet of the upper lake because my tent site was too windy. It was cold so I bundled up to cook dinner at this awkward kitchen before I moved to a more comfortable location to eat.

Back at the tent a bold marmot was in attack mode. I threw a rock and he did not move. Then I filled the cook pot with water, let him come close, and dumped the water on him. He scurried off and never came back. I had the lakes to myself; did not see a person since I left Ediza Lake. The night was very windy but remained above freezing. Even with my windbreak, the tent was buffeted all night. Given the lack of mosquitoes I could have camped at the lower lakes with less wind.

6/13 Nydiver Lakes to Rosalie Lake, plus fishing
7.2 miles, 7 hours, 1000 elevation gain



I awoke at 4:30 AM, bundled up, and started photographing. After each session at the windy shore, I laid down in the tent, sleeping bag covering me, feet sticking out the door, as I did not want to bother with taking shoes off and on. After nearly an hour of this, I cooked breakfast in the vestibule, simply walking a few steps up the little windbreak ridge and snapping a shot now and then.


I left at 7:45 and there was a tent set up on the north shore, probably someone doing the Sierra High Route. I met a few day-hikers on the way back to Ediza Lake, where I again waded across the inlet. This time there were not as many pesky mosquitoes. I also waded across Shadow Creek; it had risen a bit and the dubious log crossing was even more dubious. A group of hikers just reached the crossing as I left. At 11:30 I crossed the bridge on the JMT and was surprised that the trail followed the south shore of Shadow Lake since I did not really look at the map.




There are dozens of switchbacks up a very steep hillside with a forest of tall trees. Partway up I ran into three Forest Service rangers and had a nice chat with them about all the illegal stuff I ran into (others had also reported the fire) and the problems with the current permit system. They were very receptive to my comments. They had been up to Iceberg Lake the day before checking permits and had not seen the fire and pork&bean can, so hopefully it was cleaned up. They had backpacks and were roaming around, clearing trails a bit with their shovel and long saw and “educating” backpackers.



I arrived at Rosalie Lake at 1:30 and, as usual, I had to check out every last established campsite (and there were a ton!) before I finally chose one. This practice really annoys my husband who is happy to simply set up on the first site he sees. When I am alone, I enjoy indulging as much as I want in this obsession. It took take forever to set up my tent, adjusting several times before it did not look skewed. I am experimenting with some changes and have yet to figure out the optimum trekking pole height needed for a perfect setup.

After a nice bath, I went fishing. Just as luck would have it, the wind picked up. I was going to circle the lake, but cliffs stopped me; I think I could have made it but falling into the lake was not in my game plan. I would wait for breaks in the wind, cast, then wait. Once, a gust of wind threw water all over me. The lake was covered with pollen near the north shore, likely blow by the wind. Returning from fishing I spotted a bird that looked like a grouse- maybe a Ptarmigan?

I cooked a nice dinner, resting with my back against a nice smooth sloped rock and watched the lake. There were a few mosquitoes, but the wind kept them down. For brief moments, swarms of tiny mosquitoes would become a cloud around a tree, and suddenly disappear back into the tree. Huge black ants provided entertainment; one carried off a piece of Parmesan cheese three times his size!


6/14 Rosalie Lake to Road gate parking
8.5 miles, 4.8 hours, 1330 elevation gain



I left at 6:45 and walked back to the Shadow Lake junction. Mosquitoes pestered me at the bridge. Interestingly, once I dropped down to Olaine Lake, there were fewer. On the way out I met several people going in, many to climb Mt Ritter, including a HST member CAMERONM and family!



I arrived at my car at 11:30 to a crowded and packed parking lot. Stupidly, I set my trekking poles on the hood of my car, and drove off. Thank goodness I saw them half mile down the road, stopped and put them inside. I have no idea why I did not spot them before I started the car. Maybe because something got into one eye and the scratch hurt for several hours as I drove home. The traffic on 395 was amazing for a Monday. I cannot believe how many highway patrol cars I passed between Bridgeport and Walker. I should have taken some photos of Monitor Pass in full bloom; one hillside was covered with Lupine. Heading over Echo Pass, there were dark clouds building, but no rain. Hard to believe that within one week I went from 20-degrees and snow to 100+ degrees. So far this was my favorite trip of 2021.

Thanks for the wonderful report and the gorgeous photos. It is really odd that I haven't been to that area since 1973. I should probably correct that. Yes that was unusually cold. It didn't get to 20 where I was 6/7-6/8 on the west flank, but tents were covered with frost in the morning and the daytime high on 6/8 may have barely hit 50 at an elevation of a bit under 10000' in full sun. I think that on 6/9 Fresno had a high of something like 80 which is positively arctic for Fresno in June.

Thank you for the nice report.

I see you added some guy lines to your Tarptent Notch. At the ends, and mid way side walls. I am curious why.

WD, thank you for this terrific trip report. Perfect timing for this area during this ultra-low snow year. Great photos. I especially liked the black and white shot with Banner in the background.

Mike M.

Thanks for the report and photos! This looks like a beautiful area, glad you had a good trip.

Thanks for the very nice trip report and great photos to remind me again how beautiful is the Ritter Range area! I haven't been there in 20 years and need to go back!

I was doing a warm-up planned two night backpack trip myself on June 6 in the Grouse Lakes area of the Tahoe National Forest (near my cabin, all melted out, and no permits needed - perfect for a last minute trip). The wind really came up in the afternoon and pounded my tent all night (didn't help that I had camped on a little shelf on an open granite slope with no trees to avoid mosquitoes), to the point where I was a bit worried that a pole could break. Didn't sleep much. Ended up bailing out the next day as the wind was constant and no sign of letting up. Glad to hear that you persisted and the wind died down in your area.

-Phil

Wonderful report and lovely photos of one of my favorite haunts. You even managed to get Rosalie into your trip! I particularly liked your black and white reflections photo of Garnet. The snow melt looks a month ahead of normal.