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Margaret-Beetlebug Pass (Unofficial)

Posted: Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:33 pm
by alpinemike
TITLE: Margaret-Beettlebug Pass (Unofficial)

GENERAL OVERVIEW: This pass leads between Margaret Lake and Beetlebug Lake. Can be used in conjunction with Beettlebug-Anne Pass to connect Big Margaret to that drainage. It crosses the Silver Divide.

CLASS/DIFFICULTY: Class 2

LOCATION: John Muir Wilderness on the Silver Divide to the South and East of Silver Peak and to the North of Peak 11,470. HST Map

ELEVATION: 11,071

USGS TOPO MAP (7.5'): Sharktooth Peak

ROUTE DESCRIPTION: This pass faces Northeast to Southwest but for simplicity I will refer to just North and South on the description. The North side isn't very pleasant. It's perfectly doable but the rock is very loose especially the route we had to take. We traversed from Beetlebug-Anne Pass which lies on the ridge to the Northeast of this pass. There was a very loose section of rock that had to be traversed. I can only imagine that coming directly from Beetlebug Lake there is still plenty of loose rock given the type of rock and nature of it. It's also very very steep going down to Beetlebug Lake so I doubt it will be a pleasant pass to say the least.

The South side is also loose but felt less so than the North. Initially you have to descend the steepest top bit and after that you can decide if you want to follow the drainage down to Big Margaret or cut across to the rib coming off of Silver Peak. We headed for the rib since I climbed the peak. I think this is a preferred route since there's less talus and it becomes more pleasant walking as soon as you end up on the rib. Following the drainage is possible and I've heard of those who've done it. Just exercise caution on both sides of this pass since there is plenty of loose talus. Technically there is nothing difficult about either side except how steep they are.
The traverse between Bettlebug-Anne and Margaret-Bettlebug Passes is short but the rock is loose especially closer to the pass. Careful!
The traverse between Bettlebug-Anne and Margaret-Bettlebug Passes is short but the rock is loose especially closer to the pass. Careful!
Lots of talus awaits you if you head down or up this side of the pass from Bettlebug Lake.
Lots of talus awaits you if you head down or up this side of the pass from Bettlebug Lake.
And yes plenty more talus on the South side as well.
And yes plenty more talus on the South side as well.
The route we took curved to the right and headed down that rib which curves more to the right by Big Margaret Lake.
The route we took curved to the right and headed down that rib which curves more to the right by Big Margaret Lake.

Re: Margaret-Beetlebug Pass (Unofficial)

Posted: Sat Aug 03, 2024 11:39 am
by erutan
This is Anne Margaret Pass, as named by Secor. I don't think it's a great name, he was trying to be a bit clever and it makes more sense to tie into the ridge above Anne lake but if you're looking for Anne Margaret Pass on HST and can't find anything on it, this is why. IMO it's just better to use existing names rather than invent new ones, right now there's two more on HST.

tl;dr, if the talus isn't covered in snow it's dangerously loose garbage.

Here's a post with some questions and a climber.org trip report on it: viewtopic.php?p=69634&hilit=Anne+Margaret#p69634

Someone called this "never again notch": viewtopic.php?p=110490#p110490

This is my take on it, we ended up bypassing it: viewtopic.php?p=174556#p174556