High Sierra Topix

I have finally recovered enough, psychologically speaking, to catch up on the forums here, post this miserable trip report, and ask a couple questions in preparation for my next attempt at a hike in the Sierra this summer. Questions first, trip report follows immediately.

1. Did/does much of the snow pack from a heavy snow year linger into the next year? I have looked at some of the late season trip reports from last September and October and it looks as though things cleared up nicely. This obviously varies by location, but in general is it okay to assume things started at or near “zero” for this winter? I brought and used crampons and a whippet pole last summer, and I am wondering if there are holdover effects from last winter that might tilt the decision in favor of doing that again. I know this season is not finished by any stretch, especially given the recent (and I’d bet welcome) uptick in snow water content.

2. Does anyone have information to share on Russell Pass between the Maclure Creek and Hutchings Creek drainages? I have searched the forum and have not found anything, and the description on the HST map is somewhat sparse: “Class 2 pass. Easier than Lyell-Maclure Col. The ascent to the steep ridge from the north is tedious over talus and sun-cupped Maclure Glacier.” Normally, I’d take it at that and make my own discoveries, but I *really* want the hike to work out this time. Last summer I tried going over “Pothole Pass” north to south, which is nearby and connects the Lewis Creek and Hutchings Creek drainages, and ended up turning around because I could not find a way down that didn’t involve stretches of free fall… Anyway, from where I was standing a couple hundred feet above, Russell Pass looked like a much better place to be. Would it typically require crampons and an ice axe/whippet pole for the ascent from the east?

Thanks for your input — I really appreciate it.
Dennis

And now for something completely different…

Day 0 — July 25 — Oshkosh WI to Mammoth Lakes CA
Up crazy early for the drive to Milwaukee to catch the first leg to Phoenix AZ, followed by a heart-palpitating 25 minute layover wondering if my backpack would get transferred in time for the second leg to Reno NV. Turns out the backpack arrived at the same time I did, so I hurried up and waited for the EST bus which was an hour and a half late due to construction. In the mean time I got involved in a gear discussion with fellow hikers and tried to interest them in the Flextrek 37 Trillion Whipsnake Edition. They were not amused. Hmmph. Uneventful ride to Mammoth Lakes. Checked in at the Cinnamon Bear Inn, ate supper and quaffed an IPA 395 at Mammoth Brewing Company, repacked some gear, lights out.
Day 1 — July 26 — Tuolumne Meadows to Matthes Lake
Caught the 6 AM YARTS bus to Tuolumne Meadows. Not many people around since the campground and store had not yet opened for the season. Picked up my Budd Lake cross country permit from the office and away I go. Less than two minutes later I am flat on my face wondering what hit me. Turns out I had tripped on a sapling stump next to the bridle path the park staff was regrading, crashed down onto a rock with my knee and across a log with the rest of my body. Put a big gash in my knee, skinned an arm up good from wrist to elbow, popped the cuff button off my shirt on that side (I heard the ricochet as it went winging off toward Cathedral Peak in the distance), and snapped the middle section of one of my hiking poles. Well. Bandages, field repairs to the pole (which was an annoying 3” too short even at max extension from that point on), and positive self-talk to shore up my wounded pride. In retrospect, this proved to be a Bad Omen, but I was too naive to recognize it as such. Onward.

My plan was to cross the ridge south of Budd Lake between Cockscomb and the easternmost Echo Peaks, but there was a lingering cornice up there so I climbed up the steep slope further west and passed over what I believe is the saddle east of Wilts Col (i.e., just east of Echo Peaks 8 and 9). Plenty of others had obviously been up there. The terrain on the south side is pretty steep but passable with some loose gravel and soil. Coming down the eastern slopes of Matthes Crest I donned my crampons to negotiate some snow slopes. I met two gentlemen below the snow fields who had seen the same cornice at Budd Lake and elected to pass around to the south via Cathedral Pass. Camped at Matthes Lake. As a frequent visitor to the Boundary Waters/Quetico canoe country I am accustomed to great clouds of mosquitoes that obscure the noonday sun, so I had taken reports of “bad” mosquito conditions on this forum with a grain of salt and a dose of nonchalant superiority. Never again. Total respect.
Day 2 — July 27 — Matthes Lake to Vogelsang Pass
Breakfasted in the tent to avoid my host of camp followers (fame has its price). Went over the ridge directly east of Matthes Lake, which proved to have one tricky bit that required walking across a steep slab just outside of my comfort zone. Otherwise, it was a pleasant stroll past Nelson and Reymann Lakes as long as I kept moving. Pauses were met with hordes of mosquitoes zeroing in for a blood meal. Had to hike for periods with my bug net on, which is not my favorite thing to do in this world. Used my crampons again to make my way down the snow covered eastern slopes of Rafferty Peak. At Boothe Lake I got myself oriented toward Vogelsang High Sierra Camp and dealt with the first rumblings of the gastro issues that would eventually cause me to quit the hike. The camp was deserted, which was a nice change, but the toilets were locked up tight . No people, no manure, no noise. I made camp right at the top of Vogelsang Pass where there was plenty of running meltwater and precious few mosquitoes.
Day 3 — July 28 — Vogelsang Pass to Pothole Pass and a Retreat
In the morning I started down the trail on the south side of Vogelsang Pass and simply walked off one of the switchbacks and contoured around to Lewis Creek below Gallison Lake. It was not possible to stay as high as the pass because of steep slabs, but it was only a couple hundred vertical feet to make up. As I made my way along the creek and the unnamed lakes higher up in the basin, the snow coverage increased and the sun cups made for choppy progress even with crampons deployed. After some hours of slogging along in arhythmic fashion, I reached the climb up to the ridge east of the pothole below Peak 12499. The talus slope was stable and I clambered up to the ridge. After a relatively short distance along the top, the ridge broadened out and there was a kind of berm of snow to my left (east) that helped me feel relatively secure. I quickly discovered there was no hope of descending to Russell Pass without skills and gear that I did not have. I searched to the west for a safe route down and descended part way before getting into quite uncomfortable terrain. Eventually, I gave up and headed back down the basin and camped about a kilometer southeast of Bernice Lake. Near as I can tell, either a) I did not go far enough west on the ridge extending from Peak 12499 before descending, b) I could have kept heading down from where I was but the “convex” terrain kept me from seeing/choosing good lines of descent, or c) I completely messed up and should have ascended the *west* side of the pothole. Dunno.

On a few occasions throughout the day my gastro issues made for some unpleasant interludes. I have made a little progress on understanding why this happens when my diet changes to trail food, and I have eliminated some things (processed meats, freeze dried beans) with some limited success. Still have a ways to go apparently. If only I could bring the makings for a crisp garden salad and a freshly baked loaf of bread for lunch and supper I am sure everything would run smoothly. And I just want to do this for ten to twelve days at a stretch. Probably need a Flextrek 37 Trillion for that. Alas. Way open to dietary suggestions here from those similarly afflicted.
Day 4 — July 29 — Bernice Lake to Yosemite Valley
I gave up. I had a rough morning with my digestive issues (or as I like to call it, Phase Separation Anxiety) and I was feeling miserable when I came to the junction sign for the trail to Isberg Pass, so I flipped it off and didn’t stop walking until I had descended more than a vertical mile. I regret that decision mightily. But I own the “toxic masculinity” (to borrow a phrase from a recent thread ) that led to it and have learned a couple things about myself in the process. Enough said. Here’s to the *next* trip…

Dennis

Great report! Sorry to hear about your stomach issues, but you certainly made the right call. I've done much of that hike in different ways. Lovely area.

One thought about your digestion---dehydration can cause some of these symptoms. When you add in the time you spent in airplanes and then hiking in the Sierra, that may have been an issue....

I recall that you do a lot of shorter and fast travel. I do not see why you cannot take more regular food. For trail food, avoid dried fruit which when overdone can cause bloat. I find that raisins are not that bad, but dried apricots do me in. I do not do well with greasy sausage and better with almonds or peanuts. Crackers and cheese work well for me. Too much candy is also not good.I always carry packets of miso soup and instant mashed potatoes. These seem to do well when my stomach is upset. Lots of herbal tea too. In fact I think there are some teas specially for upsets. I think it is a lot just the effect of a hot liquid. Just take a regular sandwich for the first day, both lunch and dinner. Regular apples, are also good. I avoid freeze dried food because it never agrees with me. Standard breakfast is oatmeal. Mushroom cous-cous is easy and tastey. Throw in olive oil or margarine.

Hard to say, maybe you picked up some bug in your travels before the trip. You did not die, you saw some beautiful country, you explored (even if the pass did not work out). That to me is not an epic failure, but a work in progress.

balzaccom wrote:Great report! Sorry to hear about your stomach issues, but you certainly made the right call. I've done much of that hike in different ways. Lovely area.

One thought about your digestion---dehydration can cause some of these symptoms. When you add in the time you spent in airplanes and then hiking in the Sierra, that may have been an issue....

Balzaccom,
Thanks. I am definitely the thirsty type, but my problem is pretty clearly connected to food. I put something solid into the system and within 20 minutes everything is rumbling and roiling away. Sometimes it settles down, sometimes not. I've got my experimentalist hat on at home and am trying various things under controlled circumstances. It's an interesting problem, I just wish there wasn't so much at stake in terms of time, effort and expense getting out there.

And yes, a lovely area that I hope is under just a touch less snow when I visit again this summer.
Dennis

Wandering Daisy wrote:I recall that you do a lot of shorter and fast travel. I do not see why you cannot take more regular food. For trail food, avoid dried fruit which when overdone can cause bloat. I find that raisins are not that bad, but dried apricots do me in. I do not do well with greasy sausage and better with almonds or peanuts. Crackers and cheese work well for me. Too much candy is also not good.I always carry packets of miso soup and instant mashed potatoes. These seem to do well when my stomach is upset. Lots of herbal tea too. In fact I think there are some teas specially for upsets. I think it is a lot just the effect of a hot liquid. Just take a regular sandwich for the first day, both lunch and dinner. Regular apples, are also good. I avoid freeze dried food because it never agrees with me. Standard breakfast is oatmeal. Mushroom cous-cous is easy and tastey. Throw in olive oil or margarine.

Hard to say, maybe you picked up some bug in your travels before the trip. You did not die, you saw some beautiful country, you explored (even if the pass did not work out). That to me is not an epic failure, but a work in progress.

WD,
Thanks for the note. I actually go at what I consider a moderate pace (8-10 miles per day off trail) and for longer periods, or at least I try. I have come to the same conclusions about the dried fruit and freeze dried meals.

I know the epic fail label is a bit melodramatic, but my hasty decision cut short what was supposed to be a three week trip that included doing more of the SHR/SoSHR. You are absolutely correct, though -- on the blessings side of the balance sheet I am indeed around to try again, saw some beautiful countryside, and had almost three full days of complete solitude. Thanks.
Dennis

A gal I have hiked with has totally given up on regular backpack food. She now washes, cuts, and bags the lighter weight fresh vegetables, such as green beans, and peas, cooks regular rice and pasta, carries avacados, apples, home-made whole grain bread. She simply puts up with the extra weight and has decided to limit trips to 5 days, but is willing to walk fast and long days. Lucky me, when she decides she cannot eat all her fresh food, she gives some to me. I have another friend, skinny as a rail, who prefers liquid meals - mostly soups. She will stop and cook soup for lunch. Another fellow I know went 30 days eating nothing but macaroni and cheese. I think everyone has to decide how to match their digestion issues with their daily travel. I hope you eventually find the solution. I am fine with big breakfasts, but too much trail food gets me burping. So I cook (from scratch) big breakfasts and big dinners and just nibble on an almond or two every hour or so during the day. I now do a lot of fishing, and that is a great break from the normal backpack meals.

I have spent some time in Hutchings Basin and really like it. I have too thought about going directly between Hutchings lakes and McClure Lake, but never have done it. I did traverse from McClure Lake into the basin above Ireland Lake. And from Ireland Lake over the top dropping to Gallison Lake. I did Slugo Pass into the upper Lyell Creek and due to snow conditions it was very sketchy. And I "discovered" a horrible pass just east of Pt. 11201 from the upper Lyell Fork with a direct traverse over Forrester Pass. I have also dropped directly down the Lyell Fork to the trail above Merced Lake, and that was also challenging. Lots of things work in this area, although any one route may not be the best available. You just have to go and try it. Just be sure you do not climb into anything that you cannot retreat. I always carry a 50-foot line of parachute cord to lower my pack if needed.

I can say overall To keep my stomach happy I try not to bring things I need to chew very much! This includes oatmeal with dehydrated quinoa and a little protein powder, cocoa nibs, and some other goodies minimal dried fruit. Mashed potatoes, with quinoa, olive oil powdered cheese and other goodies. Good to go Thai curry add freeze dried chicken, quinoa olive oil, last dehydrated beans, with real cheese, or cheese powder, olive oil, Fritos or flavored chick peas, or wasabi peas. Lunch or snack well maltodextrin powder with a sampling of other scary things but works for me, very rarely a caffeinated gu, fig bars, honey stinger gels, coffee bars, honey stinger wafers, but don’t eat much during the day that’s when problems arise! That’s it oh and definitely coffee in the morning my new favorite is laird instant with creamer in it. I ate these things for 12 day backpack trip last year and was happy as pie but I did get a 1/2 trout (small trout) from Jim at bench lake (thanks)

Still have to look up what pass you are questioning but I believe I was close a couple years ago.

Perhaps if you had brought your flextrex 37trillion you would have had the medical supplies along to solve your medical issue. I cry every time I watch that video. Some people love it, others go meh. I had forgotten the name of that pack and was sad I couldn't find it. A few years ago me and my daughter summited Mt Dana on a day hike and there was Moose Tracks who had just completed her first solo up the Dana Coulier with her climbing axes. My first question was what the hell was the name of that ridiculous pack and she immediately replied - "Oh you mean the flextrex 37 trillion".

Thanks for the trip report. Beautiful pictures! Bummer about your stomach. I'm lucky to have an iron stomach.

Wandering Daisy wrote:A gal I have hiked with has totally given up on regular backpack food. She now washes, cuts, and bags the lighter weight fresh vegetables, such as green beans, and peas, cooks regular rice and pasta, carries avacados, apples, home-made whole grain bread. She simply puts up with the extra weight and has decided to limit trips to 5 days, but is willing to walk fast and long days. Lucky me, when she decides she cannot eat all her fresh food, she gives some to me. I have another friend, skinny as a rail, who prefers liquid meals - mostly soups. She will stop and cook soup for lunch. Another fellow I know went 30 days eating nothing but macaroni and cheese. I think everyone has to decide how to match their digestion issues with their daily travel. I hope you eventually find the solution. I am fine with big breakfasts, but too much trail food gets me burping. So I cook (from scratch) big breakfasts and big dinners and just nibble on an almond or two every hour or so during the day. I now do a lot of fishing, and that is a great break from the normal backpack meals.

Gazelle wrote:I can say overall To keep my stomach happy I try not to bring things I need to chew very much! This includes oatmeal with dehydrated quinoa and a little protein powder, cocoa nibs, and some other goodies minimal dried fruit. Mashed potatoes, with quinoa, olive oil powdered cheese and other goodies. Good to go Thai curry add freeze dried chicken, quinoa olive oil, last dehydrated beans, with real cheese, or cheese powder, olive oil, Fritos or flavored chick peas, or wasabi peas. Lunch or snack well maltodextrin powder with a sampling of other scary things but works for me, very rarely a caffeinated gu, fig bars, honey stinger gels, coffee bars, honey stinger wafers, but don’t eat much during the day that’s when problems arise! That’s it oh and definitely coffee in the morning my new favorite is laird instant with creamer in it. I ate these things for 12 day backpack trip last year and was happy as pie but I did get a 1/2 trout (small trout) from Jim at bench lake (thanks)

Still have to look up what pass you are questioning but I believe I was close a couple years ago.

WD & Gazelle,
Thanks for the tips and options. I think I just have to be more ruthless about eliminating foods and not worrying so much about a balance between carbs, fats and proteins. Two or three weeks of whatever gets me down the trail, no matter its contents, is better than one that incapacitates me. I hadn't thought about trying to frontload and backload with big breakfasts and dinners. I will experiment with that on some trips this spring, although I have to say I am a huge fan of Second Breakfast.

Wandering Daisy wrote:I have spent some time in Hutchings Basin and really like it. I have too thought about going directly between Hutchings lakes and McClure Lake, but never have done it. I did traverse from McClure Lake into the basin above Ireland Lake. And from Ireland Lake over the top dropping to Gallison Lake. I did Slugo Pass into the upper Lyell Creek and due to snow conditions it was very sketchy. And I "discovered" a horrible pass just east of Pt. 11201 from the upper Lyell Fork with a direct traverse over Forrester Pass. I have also dropped directly down the Lyell Fork to the trail above Merced Lake, and that was also challenging. Lots of things work in this area, although any one route may not be the best available. You just have to go and try it. Just be sure you do not climb into anything that you cannot retreat. I always carry a 50-foot line of parachute cord to lower my pack if needed.

Yes, your trip reports and those by others who have travelled in the area are a big part of what draws me to stitch this into my own multi-year high route variant. Barring any reports of "Russell Pass is completely nuts" my plan is to go from Ireland Lake to Maclure Lake and then over Russell Pass and Sluggo Pass keeping an eye out for the sketchy conditions you have reported. From there I want to putter around the Lyell Fork basin and then either try Old Bones Pass and explore the North Fork San Joaquin basin above Twin Island Lakes, or follow the crest southwest and bob and weave around the southern Clark Range.

Dennis

apeman45 wrote:Perhaps if you had brought your flextrex 37trillion you would have had the medical supplies along to solve your medical issue. I cry every time I watch that video. Some people love it, others go meh. I had forgotten the name of that pack and was sad I couldn't find it. A few years ago me and my daughter summited Mt Dana on a day hike and there was Moose Tracks who had just completed her first solo up the Dana Coulier with her climbing axes. My first question was what the hell was the name of that ridiculous pack and she immediately replied - "Oh you mean the flextrex 37 trillion".

Thanks for the trip report. Beautiful pictures! Bummer about your stomach. I'm lucky to have an iron stomach.

I know, right? Or at least enough sets of adult diapers that I could Hike With Confidence. Kind of the antithesis of Steve Climber's French Wedge, which never needs washing.

Dennis