The glory and gory of june trips in the Sierra
Posted: Tue Jul 11, 2017 3:32 pm
Having monitored HST regularly from late May till my wife & I departed on a trip on June 20th, it was clear that there are a lot of disparate opinions about the pros and cons of early season backpacking trips. I thought I'd start a thread that included a whole bunch of good reasons to get out early and then a shorter (but significant) list of good reasons to wait. I'm confident that I won't hit everything, so that's where y'all can chime in to warn the unwary or encourage the folks who really just need one last reason to pack up and go hit the snow.
Here are the reasons to do it:
1) It's unbelievably peaceful back there: On this latest trip, we saw two day hikers on the way in (via Piute pass), and did not see another soul until we reached North Lake 11 days later. If you're looking for serenity in a state with close to 40 million inhabitants, look no further. FYI: the sound of running water, even if it's louder than thunder, generates a different kind of "serenity".
2) You are never far from water: yes folks, snow is just a different physical state of water and when it's everywhere, your choice of campsites is not constrained in the slightest bit by how far you need to lug water. Snowmelt ponds and melting rivulets are added bonuses. Of course, the presence of snow has downsides that I'll address later.
3) Mosquitoes are rare: this requires proper timing. For instance, on this latest trip, we were good for days 1-10. As we descended on day 11, there was an inverse correlation between elevation and density of mosquitoes. Typically, we've noticed that the earlier we go, the fewer bugs we see. But, that also goes for exposed dirt.
4) You can manage some routes that are dreadful in mid-summer: if you're fond of walking/sliding on/in snow, there are many routes that become easier, because the snow covers up extended patches of talus/scree. This was certainly the case on our recent trip during which the ascent of Alpine col was far less tedious than any time I've done it in the past, because we were climbing up nice snow fields rather than boulder hopping. And, the descent was SO easy. Just aim downhill and glide. As long as you arrest before hitting open water, you've found one of the joys of early season backpacking.
5) The mountains/lakes look very different: yes, during my early years in the Sierra, I seldom started a trip before July, so I grew accustomed to the mid-summer color palette. It's fun to mix it up with a backdrop that's dominated by white. The downside is obvious and will be touched on below.
6) It's pretty easy to cool off: if you ever get to wondering what you're doing out there in blazing sun trying to get over Shepherds or Taboose or Baxter Pass in mid-August and you're dripping sweat and saving your last swig of water, this will never happen in early June. Snow angels are a quick way to chill out!
7) Falling in snow: yep, 99% of the time it's a lot less traumatic than crashing off a boulder. Or, falling off the high Sierra trail. I kept track of the number of tumbles I took coming down the snow patches below Lamarck col on our way out last month and I managed 5 crashes. Number of bloody wounds: 0. It's snow. It can be pretty forgiving. Sure, you do not want to slide down a 500 ft pitch at 45 degrees, but wiping out in a snow cup is no big deal. I know. I did it a lot.
8) Fires: typically, there are fewer wildfires sullying the air. This was not a concern 15 years ago, but California is burning more and burning earlier these days. The earlier you head in, the less likely you are to notice the quagmire that can disrupt your long-distance views.
9) Friendly critters: the marmots, pika and other small animals are ravenous and seem less shy about helping themselves to anything that resembles food or has salt in/on it. My bandana was getting eaten before I rescued it. If you like seeing critters, they'll oblige you to distraction.
10) The days are REALLY long: having been out over the summer solstice, I can attest to the fact that it stays light late and starts getting light EARLY! But, if you like going all day, well you get a LOT of day!
Reasons not to go out early:
1) There's no one around: to help out if you get lost. Or, to share stories with.
2) There are no trails: they're all buried under snow.
3) Fishing can be tricky: because the lakes, mostly, are still frozen. But, the ones that are opening up have VERY hungry fish! If they have fish...
4) Finding campsites can occupy a big chunk of your day, because there can be a dearth of dry, flat ground.
5) Too many photons: the sun can get to you. It comes up early and goes to bed late. And, the snow reflects. Bring LOTS of sunscreen.
6) Water crossings can be hazardous: we designed our route to avoid any hazardous crossings, but this certainly can limit where you can go. Or, it can force big detours. But, hey, that's life in the Sierra.
The good news is that even if you've gone for an early season trip and gotten the bjeebers beaten out of you by snow cups and sunshine, you can crawl back to your cave and re-stock and go out again when the trails are a bit more accommodating. But, the odds of finding another party in your favorite campsite are incrementally higher. OK that's my 2 cents on the topic.
Here are the reasons to do it:
1) It's unbelievably peaceful back there: On this latest trip, we saw two day hikers on the way in (via Piute pass), and did not see another soul until we reached North Lake 11 days later. If you're looking for serenity in a state with close to 40 million inhabitants, look no further. FYI: the sound of running water, even if it's louder than thunder, generates a different kind of "serenity".
2) You are never far from water: yes folks, snow is just a different physical state of water and when it's everywhere, your choice of campsites is not constrained in the slightest bit by how far you need to lug water. Snowmelt ponds and melting rivulets are added bonuses. Of course, the presence of snow has downsides that I'll address later.
3) Mosquitoes are rare: this requires proper timing. For instance, on this latest trip, we were good for days 1-10. As we descended on day 11, there was an inverse correlation between elevation and density of mosquitoes. Typically, we've noticed that the earlier we go, the fewer bugs we see. But, that also goes for exposed dirt.
4) You can manage some routes that are dreadful in mid-summer: if you're fond of walking/sliding on/in snow, there are many routes that become easier, because the snow covers up extended patches of talus/scree. This was certainly the case on our recent trip during which the ascent of Alpine col was far less tedious than any time I've done it in the past, because we were climbing up nice snow fields rather than boulder hopping. And, the descent was SO easy. Just aim downhill and glide. As long as you arrest before hitting open water, you've found one of the joys of early season backpacking.
5) The mountains/lakes look very different: yes, during my early years in the Sierra, I seldom started a trip before July, so I grew accustomed to the mid-summer color palette. It's fun to mix it up with a backdrop that's dominated by white. The downside is obvious and will be touched on below.
6) It's pretty easy to cool off: if you ever get to wondering what you're doing out there in blazing sun trying to get over Shepherds or Taboose or Baxter Pass in mid-August and you're dripping sweat and saving your last swig of water, this will never happen in early June. Snow angels are a quick way to chill out!
7) Falling in snow: yep, 99% of the time it's a lot less traumatic than crashing off a boulder. Or, falling off the high Sierra trail. I kept track of the number of tumbles I took coming down the snow patches below Lamarck col on our way out last month and I managed 5 crashes. Number of bloody wounds: 0. It's snow. It can be pretty forgiving. Sure, you do not want to slide down a 500 ft pitch at 45 degrees, but wiping out in a snow cup is no big deal. I know. I did it a lot.
8) Fires: typically, there are fewer wildfires sullying the air. This was not a concern 15 years ago, but California is burning more and burning earlier these days. The earlier you head in, the less likely you are to notice the quagmire that can disrupt your long-distance views.
9) Friendly critters: the marmots, pika and other small animals are ravenous and seem less shy about helping themselves to anything that resembles food or has salt in/on it. My bandana was getting eaten before I rescued it. If you like seeing critters, they'll oblige you to distraction.
10) The days are REALLY long: having been out over the summer solstice, I can attest to the fact that it stays light late and starts getting light EARLY! But, if you like going all day, well you get a LOT of day!
Reasons not to go out early:
1) There's no one around: to help out if you get lost. Or, to share stories with.
2) There are no trails: they're all buried under snow.
3) Fishing can be tricky: because the lakes, mostly, are still frozen. But, the ones that are opening up have VERY hungry fish! If they have fish...
4) Finding campsites can occupy a big chunk of your day, because there can be a dearth of dry, flat ground.
5) Too many photons: the sun can get to you. It comes up early and goes to bed late. And, the snow reflects. Bring LOTS of sunscreen.
6) Water crossings can be hazardous: we designed our route to avoid any hazardous crossings, but this certainly can limit where you can go. Or, it can force big detours. But, hey, that's life in the Sierra.
The good news is that even if you've gone for an early season trip and gotten the bjeebers beaten out of you by snow cups and sunshine, you can crawl back to your cave and re-stock and go out again when the trails are a bit more accommodating. But, the odds of finding another party in your favorite campsite are incrementally higher. OK that's my 2 cents on the topic.
