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R04/R01 TR: Florence to Goddard Canyon June 30 - July 4 2017

Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 12:26 pm
by AlmostThere
I don't usually post trip reports, but I try to once in a while. Of course the last attempt is a year old and still saved as a draft, and no guarantee this will make it to posting either...

I left Friday with one person I hike with often, one that I hiked with once, and one I had never met before. This is the magic of meetup groups (meetup.com is a social networking platform for people who want to meet others with a common interest to do that - whether it's board games, wine tasting or bocce).

The ferry was not yet running, and we had timed arrival with the ferry's supposed run - so we got a late start and it was a hot four miles of walking around the lake. I had been struggling with hip pain unrelated to the pack for a while and having a heavy canister full of food in a pack that probably could have been better balanced (the platypus I had in it leaked on the floor at home necessitating a rapid re-pack with the runner up camelbak that was sitting on a shelf in the gear room) made it difficult.

Part of the purpose of the trip was to get info on fallen trees. For the first time my trail crew is being brought in to work on trails in John Muir Wilderness, so we're scouting trails. There are lots of fallen trees on the heavily traveled trail between the ferry dock and the Muir Trail Ranch. Lots of people on the PCT are coming out via Florence to hike the road around Bear Creek/Mono Creek. Some are going forward based on the rumor of a new tree down over the creek. One said if he didn't like the look of it he'd reverse course to MTR and out -- after a high pass and so many miles, I doubted that he would do so, but it's his hike.

The meadows are lush and boggy and buggy. I used Ultrathon with good results, two of us used lemon-eucalyptus and one Deep Woods Off! Spray, and two of us were not overly bothered and not applying every hour or so. ;) I remain unconvinced of the effectiveness of alternatives to DEET. Of course, the gnats and flies do not care about anything and land on you regardless.

Hiking in we camped along the river, got to the junction of the JMT and the Goddard trail about midday, then camped there and walked up to Evolution Valley. Yep, the stream is really really high. There are nice views from the switchbacks.

Our third day was spend in Goddard, working around fallen trees, snowbanks, wading more streams and taking pictures of waterfalls. The snow was consolidated into the bottom of the canyon and the river flowing out from under it -- as we got higher and higher it was obvious we weren't making it to Martha (not to mention a 20 mile round trip is really more than what we wanted). It was uninterrupted by people until the llama guy showed up. One man, five loaded llamas, and nothing phased them. He made it past avalanche debris, creek crossings, fallen trees, sketchiness and the llamas took it all in stride.

We hiked the distance from our base camp to Florence in a day, and spent the night in a little-used campsite near the ferry dock. Very much quieter than the nights by the river, and I heard a mouse peeping and scurrying... We slept in a little, packed at a leisurely pace, waited for the 11 am ferry and rode across to cold drinks and clean clothes.

Adventures... there was a guy in sweats hiking with a satchel in a hand from MTR to the ferry, passed us on the trail. His friend was hiking the "road" that the OHV uses to get supplies to MTR, so we didn't see him. Then we got to the lake and paused for enjoying the view and the breeze at the top of the ridge, and met the friend, hiking back to find the guy. Who should have been at the ferry, and wasn't. Evidently a family member of the MTR owners and had been there many many times. Now he will go down in infamy for blowing through the trail junction and ending up at the bridge instead of the ferry...

We were a fairly compatible, mellow group. Lots of laughing and a little teasing. One of us dropped prescription glasses in Evolution and did the hike twice, and miraculously found them.

Trash hauled: empty fuel canister we found buried in the campsite we used, many wrappers, broken glass. Sunglasses.
Fish caught: none. They weren't biting at the ferry dock and I wasn't trying hard, was tired from the heat (75F, bleh). The rivers were too high for fishing.
People redirected: four, thrus who were trying to get to MTR.
Gifts given: a tube of sunscreen we found went to a thru who was out. Many of the thrus are tanned to incredibly dark states. Many with ice axes and crampons, so probably snowfields had a lot to do with the tan.

Trail intel: two young men came down Piute and reported "epic" stream crossings and many many trees down -- we're going to have to go up there with saws soon, after the water subsides. The one said there was solid snow at the top and also in Humphries Basin. He had crampons. The other made it over Piute with tennis shoes. :confused:

In the best interests of actually posting I will follow up with a post with pictures later today...

Re: TR: Florence to Goddard Canyon June 30 - July 4

Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 3:34 pm
by cgundersen
Hi A-T,
The sun's been incredibly intense up there and in spite of regular sunscreen application, I got a bit crispy in places on our recent jaunt, so I fully sympathize with the thru hikers. It'll probably stay that way till the snow recedes a bit more. I've never seen the pig chute during high runoff; since you did not mention anything, I'm assuming it was no more remarkable than usual, or maybe it was still buried in snow?
cameron

Re: TR: Florence to Goddard Canyon June 30 - July 4

Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 3:46 pm
by AlmostThere
As usual I'm having fun with photos. It's going to take a little time to get them resized.

The pictures speak louder than words, when it comes to the water out there. :nod:

Re: TR: Florence to Goddard Canyon June 30 - July 4

Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 4:28 pm
by AlmostThere
Here is Evolution Creek from this weekend. There were water wheels in the creek.
Here is Evolution Creek from this weekend. There were water wheels in the creek.
For comparison's sake, here's a (different) section of Evolution, but you can see the difference... These are in the section before you reach the meadow/bottom of the valley. I did not get all the way into Evolution Valley itself, I turned around due to time and hunger (it was past dinner time).
Evolution Creek from July 2012.
Evolution Creek from July 2012.
This is a pool in the Pig Chute in Goddard. 2012.
This is a pool in the Pig Chute in Goddard. 2012.
And here is a similar, if not the same pool, from this past weekend -- this is how the San Joaquin looked, consistently, up Goddard Canyon.
And here is a similar, if not the same pool, from this past weekend -- this is how the San Joaquin looked, consistently, up Goddard Canyon.

Re: TR: Florence to Goddard Canyon June 30 - July 4

Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 4:36 pm
by AlmostThere
Here are some random shots from the trip in no particular order.
An avalanche obscured part of the Goddard Canyon trail, and some lingering snowfields did not help. We found some rock work in a melted part that let us bridge the gap. We crossed a creek up to our knees that normally would be a step-across, to get back to the trail. There were snowfields over the creek as well as trees laying down everywhere and occasionally springing up from the snow, making us avoid walking on the snow.
An avalanche obscured part of the Goddard Canyon trail, and some lingering snowfields did not help. We found some rock work in a melted part that let us bridge the gap. We crossed a creek up to our knees that normally would be a step-across, to get back to the trail. There were snowfields over the creek as well as trees laying down everywhere and occasionally springing up from the snow, making us avoid walking on the snow.
One of the impressive falls in the Pig Chute
One of the impressive falls in the Pig Chute
One of the streams that usually isn't there, pouring down from the LeConte Divide to turn the trail into wading along in 2 inches of running ice water.
One of the streams that usually isn't there, pouring down from the LeConte Divide to turn the trail into wading along in 2 inches of running ice water.
Consolidated snow gathered in the bottom over the river, which was flowing blue and white. We did not get to see how far up the canyon this phenom went, we turned around at a snowfield over the trail.
Consolidated snow gathered in the bottom over the river, which was flowing blue and white. We did not get to see how far up the canyon this phenom went, we turned around at a snowfield over the trail.

Re: TR: Florence to Goddard Canyon June 30 - July 4

Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 4:38 pm
by AlmostThere
Our own little Sierra canyon, all to ourselves.
Our own little Sierra canyon, all to ourselves.

Re: TR: Florence to Goddard Canyon June 30 - July 4

Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 4:44 pm
by AlmostThere
And a few more.
Florence Lake, finally full - to be drained in a month alas.
Florence Lake, finally full - to be drained in a month alas.
The San Joaquin looking up from the bridge at Florence Lake. No one was swimming. Plenty of people sitting around baking on the granite nearby tho, a group was having a party just outside the wilderness boundary.
The San Joaquin looking up from the bridge at Florence Lake. No one was swimming. Plenty of people sitting around baking on the granite nearby tho, a group was having a party just outside the wilderness boundary.
Chipmunk who refused to look at us. He sat there with his back turned chirping loudly for a while. We left him there to talk to the manzanita.
Chipmunk who refused to look at us. He sat there with his back turned chirping loudly for a while. We left him there to talk to the manzanita.

Re: TR: Florence to Goddard Canyon June 30 - July 4

Posted: Wed Jul 05, 2017 5:02 pm
by maverick
AlmostThere wrote:
The pictures speak louder than words, when it comes to the water out there. :nod:
They sure do, and there is a whole lot of it, beautiful sight. Hmm, wonder what the Devils Washbowl must look like about now, probably booming.

Re: TR: Florence to Goddard Canyon June 30 - July 4

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 8:53 am
by sekihiker
Wow! Lots of water. Thanks for posting.

Re: TR: Florence to Goddard Canyon June 30 - July 4

Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 12:13 pm
by SSSdave
Well done AT, you ought to write up reports more often. The San Joaquin River above Florence L reservoir was and still is one of the best choices for backpacking with timberline regions still very white. There are some wonderful places to base camp early summer in that canyon from near the Piute Creek crossing up to the Goddard Evolution junction with lots of wildflowers, gnarly Sierra juniper, exciting whitewater, streamlets tumbling down from higher canyon areas, plus some excellent camp spots if one explores a bit away from trail sides. Most visitors seem obsessed with passing through that area in order to reach EV or ML as though the lower canyon areas are boring.

In 1986 that was arguably when most of the big avalanche paths that cleared lanes on canyon walls through forest occurred, I hiked up Goddard Canyon and there were some considerable huge piles of avalanche snow and debris. That big pile of snow where you turned around was certainly an avalanche path so likely will have plenty of sawing for your crews to entertain on.

As for the PCT hikers you met with sun broiled dark skin, the intense blinding mid day sun brightness out in those vast timberline sun cupped snow expanses was probably the least expected difficult issue to deal with when they challenged the Southern Sierra but for anyone that actually has been out in such areas, there is little one thinks about mid day except trying to find some shade to hide in. To escape several days up in such areas without getting at least some skin burned is a real accomplishment. A good strategy for having early aging wrinkly skin as one gets into middle age years. And once skin is burned even a little, the reflected radiation from the snow surface is incredibly strong like standing too close to a campfire.

David
http://www.davidsenesac.com/2017_Trip_C ... les-0.html