TR: Rae Lakes Loop September 2016 (counter-clockwise)
Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 4:48 pm
DAY ONE:
After visiting SEKI in late May of 2015 and doing a couple of short out-and-back, 2-3 day hikes, my wife and I decided to come back in 2016 and hike the Rae Lakes Loop.
We live in Nashville, so although we weren't near any trails to simulate the altitude we would encounter in Rae Lakes, we thought it would be beneficial to take a trip of similar distance and elevation gain along a section of the AT in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (which we did in September 2015). Although it was stunningly beautiful in its own right and proved to be an excellent test of our equipment and abilities, it just doesn't compare to the majesty that is the Sierra Nevada range. Our 45-mile hike in GSMNP did helps us determine that:
a) We don't want to ever stay in shelters again if at all possible
b) We needed to trim some weight off our equipment
So, in addition to numerous local training hikes over the spring and summer, we acquired lighter backpacks, shoes, and a tarp tent. We knew we were ready as we were going to be.
We had debated whether we wanted to try the clockwise (more traditional and reputably easier) or counterclockwise (which might possibly be easier on our aging knees), but fate (and procrastination) intervened and the only permit available for mid-September was for the counterclockwise direction. We accepted the counterclockwise challenge and stepped up our step-ups as part of our training.
As for the trimming of the weight, below is a shot of some of our new gear, which includes the Hyperlite Windrider 3400 for me and the ULA Circuit for her (both about 2 pounds), and (not pictured) a Z-Pack Duplex Tarp Tent (about 1.5 pounds). Our total weights were 28 & 23 pounds, including food and water. We also switched to lightweight trail running shoes, which made a huge difference and did not sacrifice support. It was my first BP trip without getting blisters. So, after spending the night at Grant Grove getting acclimated, we headed out to Road's End to pick up our permit. As the ranger was filling out the paperwork, he asked us where we planned to stay each night; when we told him either Junction (12 miles away) or Vidette Meadow (15 miles away), he sized us up and wrote down the former. My wife, who appears demure but can be a bit competitive, accepted his lack of confidence in our abilities as a friendly challenge. After obtaining our permit, we were on the trail by 8:00 on a beautiful Sierra morning, heading up Zumwalt Meadow.
After a couple of miles we crossed the South Fork Kings River, along with a few more crossings of the various arms of Bubb's Creek, and started up the switchbacks.
We soon passed hikers coming down who had spent the night at the Sphinx Creek campsite, which was actually unexpectedly pretty. We also passed a few older gentlemen heading up a few miles for a day hike. They said they lived in the area and hiked this or similar trails about once a week (jealous!). They also alerted us to a weather report forecasting snow at higher elevations. We had been without Internet, so we were glad to have the warning.
After Sphinx Creek we passed an older couple (about our age, but whose trophy-sized packs were aging them quickly), who said they were also heading to Vidette (not sure if they'd started on the trail that morning or had spent the night at Sphinx Creek). They didn't look like they were having as much fun as we were, and we privately hoped that they weren't overextending themselves.
We had lunch below Charlotte Dome and continued on our way under beautiful skies. But out of nowhere we noticed a few clouds forming over some of the higher peaks to the east. By the time we got to Junction Meadow just before 3:00, it was quite cloudy, and we had heard reports (from descending hikers) of snow above 10,000' on the trail ahead.
Our destination (Vidette) was at an elevation of 9,500', (another 3 miles and 1,300') so we figured we'd be below snow line, if it continued. We were tired, but both felt we had enough in the tank to continue on after a short break and refuel. Back on the trail we soon passed numerous hikers retreating from the upper sections of the mountain, most still with their rain/snow gear on, telling tales of snow in their eyes and limited visibility.
But soon the clouds started dissipating (we never did get rained on) as we plodded up the trail, hoping to see a meadow around the next bend. But soon we were there and saw only one other camp set up, and we found a beautiful site on the edge of the meadow with the creek nearby. It was 5:00 and the temp dropped quite a bit, but we had the right amount of clothing and soon Susan had a roaring fire going.
We were spent from the mileage and 4,500 feet of elevation gain, but the evening light was magnificent and we were so elated to have made it this far on the first day, especially with Glen Pass ahead of us on Day 2. And especially with Ranger Rick thinking we couldn't.
After visiting SEKI in late May of 2015 and doing a couple of short out-and-back, 2-3 day hikes, my wife and I decided to come back in 2016 and hike the Rae Lakes Loop.
We live in Nashville, so although we weren't near any trails to simulate the altitude we would encounter in Rae Lakes, we thought it would be beneficial to take a trip of similar distance and elevation gain along a section of the AT in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (which we did in September 2015). Although it was stunningly beautiful in its own right and proved to be an excellent test of our equipment and abilities, it just doesn't compare to the majesty that is the Sierra Nevada range. Our 45-mile hike in GSMNP did helps us determine that:
a) We don't want to ever stay in shelters again if at all possible
b) We needed to trim some weight off our equipment
So, in addition to numerous local training hikes over the spring and summer, we acquired lighter backpacks, shoes, and a tarp tent. We knew we were ready as we were going to be.
We had debated whether we wanted to try the clockwise (more traditional and reputably easier) or counterclockwise (which might possibly be easier on our aging knees), but fate (and procrastination) intervened and the only permit available for mid-September was for the counterclockwise direction. We accepted the counterclockwise challenge and stepped up our step-ups as part of our training.
As for the trimming of the weight, below is a shot of some of our new gear, which includes the Hyperlite Windrider 3400 for me and the ULA Circuit for her (both about 2 pounds), and (not pictured) a Z-Pack Duplex Tarp Tent (about 1.5 pounds). Our total weights were 28 & 23 pounds, including food and water. We also switched to lightweight trail running shoes, which made a huge difference and did not sacrifice support. It was my first BP trip without getting blisters. So, after spending the night at Grant Grove getting acclimated, we headed out to Road's End to pick up our permit. As the ranger was filling out the paperwork, he asked us where we planned to stay each night; when we told him either Junction (12 miles away) or Vidette Meadow (15 miles away), he sized us up and wrote down the former. My wife, who appears demure but can be a bit competitive, accepted his lack of confidence in our abilities as a friendly challenge. After obtaining our permit, we were on the trail by 8:00 on a beautiful Sierra morning, heading up Zumwalt Meadow.
After a couple of miles we crossed the South Fork Kings River, along with a few more crossings of the various arms of Bubb's Creek, and started up the switchbacks.
We soon passed hikers coming down who had spent the night at the Sphinx Creek campsite, which was actually unexpectedly pretty. We also passed a few older gentlemen heading up a few miles for a day hike. They said they lived in the area and hiked this or similar trails about once a week (jealous!). They also alerted us to a weather report forecasting snow at higher elevations. We had been without Internet, so we were glad to have the warning.
After Sphinx Creek we passed an older couple (about our age, but whose trophy-sized packs were aging them quickly), who said they were also heading to Vidette (not sure if they'd started on the trail that morning or had spent the night at Sphinx Creek). They didn't look like they were having as much fun as we were, and we privately hoped that they weren't overextending themselves.
We had lunch below Charlotte Dome and continued on our way under beautiful skies. But out of nowhere we noticed a few clouds forming over some of the higher peaks to the east. By the time we got to Junction Meadow just before 3:00, it was quite cloudy, and we had heard reports (from descending hikers) of snow above 10,000' on the trail ahead.
Our destination (Vidette) was at an elevation of 9,500', (another 3 miles and 1,300') so we figured we'd be below snow line, if it continued. We were tired, but both felt we had enough in the tank to continue on after a short break and refuel. Back on the trail we soon passed numerous hikers retreating from the upper sections of the mountain, most still with their rain/snow gear on, telling tales of snow in their eyes and limited visibility.
But soon the clouds started dissipating (we never did get rained on) as we plodded up the trail, hoping to see a meadow around the next bend. But soon we were there and saw only one other camp set up, and we found a beautiful site on the edge of the meadow with the creek nearby. It was 5:00 and the temp dropped quite a bit, but we had the right amount of clothing and soon Susan had a roaring fire going.
We were spent from the mileage and 4,500 feet of elevation gain, but the evening light was magnificent and we were so elated to have made it this far on the first day, especially with Glen Pass ahead of us on Day 2. And especially with Ranger Rick thinking we couldn't.