University Peak via University Pass

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Smokey.J
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Re: University Peak via University Pass

Post by Smokey.J »

https://web.archive.org/web/20131001082 ... org/Secor/

It does say "Index of Corrections to RJ Secor, The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes and Trails (1st edition)" so maybe those all got fixed in the subsequent additions (up to 3rd).
Correction to Secor, University Peak
by David Harris
I seem to have taken the class 3 North Face route. Secor's directions to "follow the ridge to the summit" are inaccurate; the class 3 route that I found stays just below the ridge on the north side.
Correction to Secor
University Peak
by John Wakabayashi
In September 1976, my father, Joe Wakabayashi, and I climbed a route on University Peak from Bench Lake that is class 2 except for some low 3rd class near the summit. I believe this may be the fastest route for dayhikers wanting to bag this peak. It lacks some of the tedious and time consuming boulder hopping associated with the route over University Pass and it is technically much easier than the listed "North Face" route. The route is as follows: From Bench Lake go south and ascend a broad scree and talus chute to a gap in (or a shoulder on) the northwest ridge. This chute reaches the ridgecrest above the point where the ridge of the Kearsarge Pinnacles and the Sierran crest meet. One can then follow the northwest ridge, staying south and below the ridgetop cliffs to minimize the difficulties. As one nears the summit, it may be possible to circle all the way around to the southeastern flank of the summit rocks to keep difficulties at strictly 2nd class. When we climbed the summit rocks we ended up doing the final approach approximately from the south and we encountered a few low 3rd class moves on very large talus and slabs.
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