The Worst or Scariest Back Country Pass you've done

[Gazelle]

I too vote for Kaweah pass, but I think this year I topped it with Grasshopper pass (secor says loose class 3) I had scary steep snow with a full pack cant even imagine it with no snow the small amount of rocks I had to deal with were scary also. I found that the sohr is going up the north ridge of Baxter instead!

[alpinemike]

2 Passes come to mind for me. Both of which I did with Rogue. The first being Rambaud Pass... needless to say getting there from the West is a sh** show and I can't recommend it since it involves thousands of feet of climbing up an exposed ridiculously steep slope. This is from all the way Goddard Creek. The east side features a very steep drop initially on some hard packed dirt and loose talus. I started quite a few slides on this one and I was quite concerned that a good that I would end up on my butt every 10 seconds.

But I do think the scarier one is Scimitar Pass. The West Side is relatively straightforward and stable but that is definitely not the case on the East Side. A lot of the talus is large and very unstable and we happened to come across someone who took a nasty fall that gouged both of his ankles and needed to retreat. It's written up in my 2015 TR. I have no interest in ever doing Scimitar from the East but unfortunately Rambaud I will do again since I need to climb the Devil's Crags.

[CAMERONM]

I'll put in another bad word for Snow-Tongue going east. When you reach the top your first reaction is "oh sh*t, what is the way down? When you do find it, it is highly unpleasant, tedious and emotionally-draining vertical loose garbage. Others described it as "sketchy." Time and again the larger rocks I thought were stable just gave way. I knew that I would make it down, but really hated the experience. I do not agree with Roper that any backpacker led by an experienced guide could do this pass.

IMG_0596 snow tongue.JPG

[orbitor]

At the top of my all-time worst so far is University "Pass" (which is really a col). Following oceans of boulder-hopping from Robinson Lake on the east, the slope to the top is steep and incredibly loose, with sand and huge rocks mixed in haphazardly and ready to go as soon as they are touched. Coming down from the south slopes of University Peak (themselves textbook exercise in the mind-numbing one step up, two steps down routine), I lost my balance after reaching the pass. I landed on a pile of boulders that took off with me on top, and for a few seconds slid helplessly downhill. I extricated myself as soon as it came to a temporary stop, but the feeling of being out of control and powerless to do anything about the unstable rocks convinced me to never again revisit the location.

Also worthy of mention is Horse Creek Pass on the south side of Matterhorn Peak. In addition to the requisite oceans of boulders, route-finding in the canyon below is confusing and frustrating.

[Hobbes]

Harlen, where is the first photo taken? It looks more like a cliff.

I'm in agreement with both Dave & Daisy - what is the distinction between a pass, col and climbing route? While I was fishing last week, I got a chance to study both Carrol & Pilot cols. While the main 'backpacking' routes are obvious, you could technically climb up/down many different routes within 500-1000 yards if so inclined. (If you had a pack, you would probably need a rope to lower your pack.) In fact, further north-east above some of the other lakes, you could technically climb over the various cirques - winding around granite blocks & snow fields - in order to reach upper Desolation lake.

In addition, the issue of snow and/or loose talus adds yet a different wrinkle. To be honest, scrambling down the loose rocks/snow fields shown in your photo below looks a lot safer than trying to get down many different completely snow covered passes:



Let's take your experience with Shepherd earlier this year. In a situation like that, there's no available foot/handhold, nor (at a 60% angle) is there any chance of recovery if you slide. Hence, the need for a safety rope; even more impressive is you did it solo.

A simple review of the deaths that occurred so far this year point to high velocity snow slips/slides (after drownings). I can only recall one that resulted from a fall, and that was on a failed belay in the Palisdades. Not to discount the potential danger, but how many people actually get killed from moving talus and/or slides down loose, unstable gravel/talus?

Injured, broken limbs, deep abrasions, SAR activities? Sure, but DOA?

[Harlen]

But I do think the scarier one is Scimitar Pass." Alpine Mike.

I'm sorry to hear that Mike, that's a pass I have long wanted to cross as the beginning of a crazy high route; at least I'll be going up the troublesome east side of it.

...you could technically climb up/down many different routes within 500-1000 yards if so inclined. (If you had a pack, you would probably need a rope to lower your pack.) In fact, further north-east above some of the other lakes, you could technically climb over the various cirques - winding around granite blocks & snow fields - in order to reach upper Desolation lake." ... In addition, the issue of snow and/or loose talus adds yet a different wrinkle. To be honest, scrambling down the loose rocks/snow fields shown in your photo looks a lot safer than trying to get down many different completely snow covered passes." Karl

Hey Karl, guess what? That photo of mine you put in your post is in fact one of the cirques you mention that would lead to Upper Desolation Lake. It's the cirque above "L" Lake, next cirque east from Puppet Pass. Here's a wider angle photo of the same cirque/pass

DSCN0560.JPG

DSCN0552.JPG

And here's a photo on the same day mid-June, looking at Puppet Pass from our "summer ski trip."

...even more impressive is you did it solo." Karl

Are you forgetting that I was roped up with "Bear?" He is a surprisingly solid leader, considering that he is also an irresponsible law-breaker.

carl book 138.JPG

Thanks for all the comments. Harlen.

[Hobbes]

Ian, I had plenty of time to look up to where you took the photo while I lazily spent the day fishing:



How could I forget Bear, your climbing/belay partner?

[Harlen]

BTW, that first photo you asked about is me peering over the edge of one of the couloirs that make up the fantastic north side of "The Gables"... north of Seven Gables Peak. I borrowed the shot from my Bear Basin TR. That's a great photo you sent Karl.

[Hobbes]

Do you have a shot looking down from Pilot Knob col?



If you look closely, you can see there is still a cornice. This was the last of my field study of the cols/cirques from the bench lakes. I guess you could get around on some of the talus blocks, but it would be a bit of an unpleasant surprise.

The easier access is to sweat it up Pine creek. I spoke to the owner of the pack station when I returned, and she had a very old map of the stock trails they used before the FS banned them from the upper lakes. In other words, you don't have to follow the SHR (like we did), but can negotiate multiple routes by very carefully & precisely following topo contours to get around the cliff band that rings the entire bench.

I'm going back to explore every single lake, pond and lakelet up there. I think I've found my retirement spot.

[Harlen]

No photo looking down from up there, sorry. Looks a bit hairy:

I guess you could get around on some of the talus blocks, but it would be a bit of an unpleasant surprise." Hobbes.

As long as doesn't become a bit of an unpleasant ride!

Sounds like a great retirement you're planning Karl! (And you can take a hound for company.)