High Sierra Topix

Wow! I think I need to make plans for a trip there!

Day 4 –Tunemah Basin to Lake 10,232. 6.7 miles - 1900’ elevation gain

I woke up early, happy I wasn’t mauled by bears over night, but thinking about fish and headed over to Lake 10,458 to wet a line. I caught a few rainbows to maybe 12” or so, but soon realized I would much rather be fishing Tunemah. I quickly packed up my things and got a head start on the group up to Tunemah. I fished for an hour without a single strike, follow or sighting. The rest of the group made their way up to the outlet and I sadly admitted defeat – Tunemah would yield nothing to me on this trip. From Tunemah, we headed up the grassy gully on it’s north shore to the saddle just east of Peak 11,920. Initially, I was a bit nervous about this pass as I could find no reports of anyone descending it. I found a few pictures and a reference that it looked “doable” but no confirmation. Luckily another member of the group had printed out a few pages from Secor and to my surprise it had a name “Libbey Pass” and was Class II. Excellent. The views from the pass were incredible, with nearly 360 views and serrated peaks everywhere. The basin to our north had two little lakes perched on a bench before it plunged over the edge into Goddard Creek canyon. We peaked over the north side of the pass, and it looked steep but as the report said “doable”. We took turns descending the loose sand/scree as to not knock rock on each other and in no time we were down to more stable talus. This pass, while a bit challenging, was no way as near as difficult as MacLeod Pass – the crux of last years trip. We descended talus to about the 11,000’ level, where I debated continuing on down to the lakes to investigate for fish. No one else in the group wanted to go, and the lakes looked quite shallow so I was content with knowing that if there were fish they were probably quite small. From 11,000’ we ascended 200’ up a steep nose to the north and then traversed over to another unknown saddle leading to Finger Peak Basin. It proved to be pretty tame, and we named the saddle “Flemish Gap” after the two Belgians in our group. From Flemish Gap we descended on granite slabs 1,300’ down to lake 10,240+ in Finger Peak Basin to stop for lunch. This lake, while having excellent views of Finger Peak and a lovely waterfall flowing in on its north shore, was infested with mosquitoes. We had almost forgot about our little friends after enjoying a day and half without them. After lunch, we continued down the West Fork of Goddard Creek through lovely granite and pine country and traversed around the bend to join the main branch of Goddard Creek. I was anticipating amazing views here in the meadows but was a little disappointed. Perhaps the bugs tainted my opinion but it was very nice nonetheless. The views were much prettier from above the meadows looking down Goddard Creek. From there it was an easy jaunt up to Lake 10,232 – an incredible lake sitting in an enormous bowl with countless waterfalls pouring into the lake. It was loaded with smallish rainbows in the 8”-10” range so I hooked a couple fish, but quickly lost interest. Sadly, this lake too was infested with mosquitoes which detracted from its amazing setting. We set up camp, and then donned our headnets, waiting for an intermittent breeze to give us momentary relief.

to be continued...

Day 5 – Lake 10,232 to Hell for Sure Lake. 11.5 miles - 3800’ elevation gain

This was our longest day, although today we would find the trail again which would make the miles a bit more manageable. The bugs were just as bad in the morning, and I couldn’t wait to get going on the 1800’ ascent up to Reinstein Pass. Progress and views were good up the granite slabs that towards the top got a bit trickier. The terrain here turned to mild Class III or Class II with careful and monotonous route finding. I enjoy a little scrambling so I took the direct route. The views from the pass were quite nice, but we didn’t stay long as we wanted to try our luck fishing at another famous lake – Martha. The descent to Martha was easy and we spotted fish rising in southeast corner of the lake as we descended. I hit the lake and immediately threw in my line. I got a nice strike, but the fish spit it out. I continued to fish for about an hour, getting a few strikes but not able to land a fish. As we worked our way around the southwest shore we spotted several large cruisers to 16” or so who seemed not the least bit interested in our offerings. Finally, my buddy hooked one and had a nice 13” golden. As we continued around the lake, we saw more and more of these “cruisers” until we got to the outlet and realized what was going on – the spawn! There in the outlet, a least a hundred fish (big ones) swam in the shallows carving out redds. What an awesome sight! We decided to leave them alone and continue on. I definitely need to return here someday as I have unfinished business. The descent down Goddard Canyon was lovely. We picked up a faint use trail through the meadows. Finally, we were able to stroll down a valley with little regard to the exact placement of our feet. We transitioned down into the forested zone (something which we hadn’t seen since day 1) before finding the unmarked spur trail to Hell for Sure Pass at around 9,900’. This trail was a bit annoying as it rollercoastered up and down but there were nice views across the canyon and to Mt. McGee. Finally, the trail turned west and began ascending the canyon towards Hell for Sure Pass. As we ascended I found it difficult to stay on the trail as it zig zagged up the steep slope. I had become much accustomed to picking my own path, and preferred my method of ascent which, while steeper, allowed me to soak in my surroundings as I paused for breath. The view from top was magnificent as Mt Hutton dominated the skyline. A quick descent and we made camp at Hell for Sure. Fish at Hell for Sure was the same story 8-10” rainbows and since the bugs were just as the previous night a couple of us decided to make the walk over to Arctic Lake where I read reports of better fishing. Once at Arctic Lake, I walked over to its shaded west shore where miraculously there were no mosquitoes! Finally. Here I fished for well over an hour catching 4 fish and hooked a beautiful 13” golden, but he flopped off just as I was grabbing a hold of him for the picture. We stayed til alpenglow and walked back to camp. Day 6 – Hell for Sure Lake to Courtright Reservoir. 14.8 miles - 1000’ elevation gain

As is becoming the usual for my trips, the last day was mostly a death march back to civilization. We were getting anxious to free ourselves from constant swatting, and we were missing our families so an early start and a solid pace had us back at the car by noon. About 2 miles from the trailhead we finally ran into the first people we had seen since the outward bound group on day 1. Wow…this was indeed some remote country. We arrived at the car dirty and tired yet at the same time refreshed. Funny how that is...

Thanks for the report, I'll be passing through some of the same areas next week.

Wow, terrific post for a terrific trip. Very nice combination to combine Tunemah, Goddard Creek, and Martha, too. That is some of the very best of the best when it comes to choice off trail High Sierra country.

I love the photo of the small lake seemingly on the lip of a drop off with the waterfall and flowers. Gorgeous. Thanks for posting.

Nice read Plato, thanks for taking the time to write a story that always makes images more meaningful. Well done work with your camera and processing. No doubt your fishing reports will put a damper on some here who have imagined some of those waters holding larger fish. In my younger years there were many more such remote waters that actually did hold large fish. But alas many of those places only sustained such populations because of the occasional gifts of DF&G fingerling from aerial flights. And I much like giantbrookie in his journeys would feel excitement each time a new remote mystery water came into view that like with your group provides the impetus to bother making sometimes strenuous efforts to reach the next remote basin few others have been able to reach.

I am heartened to read what you saw at Martha Lake, which I have visited 3 times over the years. The worry has always been that its superb population of golden trout like that of Lake South America would eventually due to publicity be fished out. In 1980 I made a 9-day loop trip over Lamarck Col into Darwin Canyon that passed Evolution, and Davis, arriving at Martha. Climbed Goddard then went down the SF San Joaquin and back up Evolution Valley. At Martha in its remarkably clear sky aquamarine blue waters within an hour of arriving had a magnificent 16 inch golden trout, my first big fish in the Sierra. In those days horse packers were well aware of the bounty there and I witnessed first hand what inconsiderate sportsmen could do tossing out large lures as grappling hooks as though the game was to see how many they could haul back to their big campsite to impress their others.

After gb and I discussed those areas on threads a few years ago, made a thorough in and out plan from Hoffman to visit some of those areas beyond Hummingbird that is still on my to do list.

SSSdave wrote:After gb and I discussed those areas on threads a few years ago, made a thorough in and out plan from Hoffman to visit some of those areas beyond Hummingbird that is still on my to do list.

An epic trip and report indeed.
Just a pointer about Mantle Pass for those who don't know: the easy approach is from just west of Portal Lake and heading SE, and then heading SE south of the ridge and north of Hummingbird Lake, up the easy grassy slope: no talus and nothing worse than just walking. Once at the Mantle Pass area, also remember you do not have to do the talus pass at the low point, but rather face north and find the ramp/notch for easy walking over the pass which dumps you out above the lake east of the pass. All easy walking over easy terrain.

Wow....paradise! Thanks for sharing these wonderful pictures!

Great TR, and excellent photos to top it off! Thanks for sharing