R09 TR: Loon Lake to Buck Island L May 27-28 2025

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giantbrookie
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R09 TR: Loon Lake to Buck Island L May 27-28 2025

Post by giantbrookie »

Every year folks ask about where to go early in the season in the Sierra, with many asking about Memorial Day weekend. However, in all but very dry years very few lakes are thawed and few trails are snow free that early. Every year I'll reply to some posts naming the usual suspect lakes that have thawed by that time: the lower elevation east side (Parker, Walker, Roosevelt, Lane etc.), NW Yosemite (Kibbie, Laurel, Vernon, Edyth), and (thaws a bit later than the above): Buck Island, Rockbound, Rubicon Res. of NW Desolation. In looking the Copernicus (Sentinel) satellite views this spring, I recall Buck Island and Rockbound thawed in early May. There is also the issue of roads. Some lakes may be thawed but roads to trailheads are not open (French Lake is a good example this spring). For reserving wilderness permits far in advance one uses April snow course measurements and comparisons to past years of experiences, but if one is doing things more spontaneously, then one can check the near real time satellite view at https://browser.dataspace.copernicus.eu.
Owing to a very heavy workload (most overloaded spring semester of my entire career), I wasn't free until after Memorial Day. As per my recent habit, I had planned to do a solo trip, but Lee was strongly against me going solo, saying that I didn't know how I'd do on my first trip out on the Lupron + Abiraterone + Prednisone combo ("hormone therapy" for prostate cancer, my 3rd round of treatment of various sorts dating back to 2018). Whereas this was my first time backpacking with that specific regimen, I had hiked strongly leading my field class back in mid-April (treatment began in early Nov. 2024). I was more concerned with my general conditioning that had slacked off a bit after that week in the field with my class, owing to being overwhelmed with multiple of those "overdues". In order to fit Lee's schedule, we headed up on May 27-28 after Memorial Day. We had several options, but I targeted the Buck Island-Rockbound area. I hadn't been to that area since 1998 and hadn't been to Rockbound and beyond since 1994. One way or another, I really relished the rejuvenating elixir of the backcountry.
The drive from the Bay Area was fairly uneventful except I managed to hit the only pothole on the westbound Loon Lake/Icehouse road. I guess it had red paint around it but it was hard to see in the dappled lighting. Once at Loon Lake, we found the spur road to the wilderness parking closed so we had to hike from the boat launch parking, adding a few tenths of a mile to our hike. I advertised the hike as "fairly flat" (500 feet of gain) and 6 miles to Buck Island Lake where we planned to camp so as to be outside of Desolation Wilderness and be able to have a campfire (and not have to worry about a wilderness permit). The sign says 6 miles to Buck Island Lake at the start of the trail, whereas Robert Wood's super detailed and accurate Desolation Wilderness guidebook (long out of print) says its 6.6 miles to the trail junction above Buck Island Lake with the Rockbound Valley trail. From there to the SE apex of the lake (ie near lake level) is another few tenths. When one counts the few tenths added on for hiking from the boat launch, I figure we were somewhere in the 7-mile range. Lee was concerned about his training too (Dawn hasn't been training so this trip wouldn't work for her), but he hiked strongly. Nonetheless he felt this was a lot more hiking than he signed on for. "This is not a 6-mile hike, dad" and eventually, "I hate hiking". I think our time to target was reasonably fast (about 2.5 hours perhaps a bit less), even though we had a fairly long rest stop at the high point past Spider Lake (Lee tried out a few bouldering moves, but in regular hiking boots--didn't bring his climbing shoes).
Lee descends toward Buck Island Lake.  The country we hiked over was snow free, but snow lingers not too far above.
Lee descends toward Buck Island Lake. The country we hiked over was snow free, but snow lingers not too far above.
We found a decent campsite on high ground above the SE apex of Buck Island Lake well off the trail. We had a consistent breeze during our hike except for the last descent to the lake and at our campsite. When the breeze abated mosquitoes came out. I had already been bitten 5 times or so by the time we arrived at our campsite. Lee was puzzled by the fact that he wasn't being bothered by mosquitoes at all (he usually gets hit at least as bad as I do). Lee carried the tent this time, and he pitched it. Because of all of his experience working at REI, Lee has become very proficient in camping tasks. He pitches and breaks down tents way better and more efficiently than I do among many other things. It makes things more relaxing for me around camp because I don't have to do everything as I did in the past. After setting up the tent we took a short hike up the trail and returned in the early evening.
Lee and I at our campsite.
Lee and I at our campsite.
Lee and I have separate dinner arrangements. I admit those Peak Fuel dinners are really good but 140% RDA of saturated fat each? Lee put down two of them himself, whereas I picked somewhat lower fat options for myself. He does the water boil on his Jetboil. I had forgotten my grill and regretted it because Lee wanted to BBQ a fish over the campfire. He figured he'd skewer it and this worked to a point until it fell off into the fire. We were able to retrieve it but it wasn't done yet. He figured out a strategy which worked perfectly. We took the fish meat off and put it into the pouches of our freeze-dried dinners. Pouring the boiling water on them and letting them sit (in the reconstituting dinner pouch) finished the cooking of the fish perfectly and made for a heartier dinner. In the meantime, the mosquitoes were really bad for me, although as I would tell Dawn upon return "nowhere near as bad as Thousand Island last year".
Lee enjoys dinner (one of his two Peak Fuel dinners) at our camp high above the lake.
Lee enjoys dinner (one of his two Peak Fuel dinners) at our camp high above the lake.
Lee continued to have no trouble with mosquitoes and because a cloud of them followed me, he requested that I keep my distance. It wasn't until he retired to the tent early that he noticed the label on his new Columbia hiking shirt that said it was permethrin treated (and this was his first trip out with it). Pretty impressive road test, I'll say.
Our second day, the wind had died and it became quite hot. It was forecast to get to 72F but I think it was warmer than that (probably 75) and at altitude this feels like 90. Oddly enough, even without a breeze the mosquitoes weren't much of an issue, even for me. We spent several hours standing on slabs in the sun fishing and that zapped quite a bit of hiking energy. When we hit the trail it was how it seems to always go: no breeze while ascending and a nice breeze when descending. We labored much more than the hike in. At first I thought we were blazing fast coming out---something around two hours--but then realized the clock in my car was a hour so our hike out took three hours. Lee did in fact say, however, that although the hike was longer and more strenuous than he expected he did in fact enjoy being outdoors. He said it was in fact really rejuvenating. Remarkably, we saw nobody the entire two days, except for some folks working on various construction projects around the Loon Lake campground. I think the lack of people was due to (1) it being early season, (2) it being in the middle of the week (Tuesday-Wednesday) and (3) there is a note on the Recreation.gov sight saying that the Loon Lake entry is closed all year.
Lee and Loon Lake on our hike out.
Lee and Loon Lake on our hike out.

Now for the usual asynchronous fishing report. Fishing was fairly slow. Over the two days of fishing Lee caught 4 rainbows of 13, 16, 16.5 and a whopping 19" (PR for Lee for rainbow). He lost at least two other large ones near shore. I caught 5 rainbows of 9, 14, 14, 14, and 15" and lost one really nice one after a brought it near shore and it did the classic rainbow jump and threw the hook. Lee hasn't fished for rainbows much, so he hadn't witnessed a big fish toss the hook that way. He was quite impressed.
Lee's two best rainbows of 19 and 16.5".  Back in the Bay Area our fish provided main courses for two dinners (cooked by Lee) and two additional lunches for me.
Lee's two best rainbows of 19 and 16.5". Back in the Bay Area our fish provided main courses for two dinners (cooked by Lee) and two additional lunches for me.
Overall, this was certainly Lee's best season opener and that made my trip one of my best, too, even if my fishing results were not as spectacular. Overall the hike was easier than I anticipated, but I think a hike of <1000' of isn't that good a test of conditioning. But, for a season opening trip, this was just right.
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: R09 TR: Loon Lake to Buck Island L May 27-28 2025

Post by TahoeJeff »

Those are some might fine looking bows!
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Re: R09 TR: Loon Lake to Buck Island L May 27-28 2025

Post by Harlen »

Congratulations John,
Your tactic of feighning ill health worked on Lee. I have tried that one too, but to no avail. Seriously, it is touching to hear of your children's concern for you. Lee pulled off some very fast times, and so did you it seems. I would call those great fishing results. Plus the solitude, campfires... everything but the unexpected early start to mosquito season. Best of luck with your health-- any chance of you retiring a bit early John? Best decision of my life, and I still get to work for fun. Write that book fer Christsake! "Romance of the Tenth Kingdom." :nod: Harlens.
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Re: R09 TR: Loon Lake to Buck Island L May 27-28 2025

Post by packmule »

Nice way to start the season! Thanks for the motivation!
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Re: R09 TR: Loon Lake to Buck Island L May 27-28 2025

Post by giantbrookie »

Harlen wrote: Wed Jun 04, 2025 9:37 am Congratulations John,
Your tactic of feighning ill health worked on Lee. I have tried that one too, but to no avail. Seriously, it is touching to hear of your children's concern for you. Lee pulled off some very fast times, and so did you it seems. I would call those great fishing results. Plus the solitude, campfires... everything but the unexpected early start to mosquito season. Best of luck with your health-- any chance of you retiring a bit early John? Best decision of my life, and I still get to work for fun. Write that book fer Christsake! "Romance of the Tenth Kingdom." :nod: Harlens.
Actually I was in fact capable of significantly faster times (than Lee) on the way in (planned to blast into Buck Island in one shot with a few swigs of water along the way) and hiked with Lee on the way out (both of us fairly tired). This probably reflected the fact that I had trained harder than Lee going in, even though I had fallen off my usual schedule a bit. As far as retirement goes, I am in fact retiring, and I ended my last full academic year (half of it was sabbatical). I start drawing retirement in late August and will teach only spring semesters in 2026 and 2027 (this is CSU's "Faculty Early Retirement Program" or FERP). Dawn and Judy have reminded me that the book (actually books) is the no.1 priority of my retirement ahead of research (will accelerate to another level), fishing (will also step up to another level), and brewing (hoping to increase production but am still brainstorming how to work this in Castro Valley instead of the current Fresno brewing set up). We have a family overnighter this coming weekend, then I will go on a solo overnighter next week (but nothing hard enough to alarm family). I still have that big international conference in Sonoma County (International Eclogite Conference) before I am truly on my summer vacation (starting June 24).
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: R09 TR: Loon Lake to Buck Island L May 27-28 2025

Post by CAchief »

Great report, thank you for sharing. Best of luck with the phased retirement and health challenges. I really enjoy reading about your outdoor endeavors and hope they continue on for many years to come!
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Re: R09 TR: Loon Lake to Buck Island L May 27-28 2025

Post by Love the Sierra »

Great TR, Thank you!
Good that you keep hiking and thanks for the early season idea.
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Re: R09 TR: Loon Lake to Buck Island L May 27-28 2025

Post by tekisui0 »

Thanks for the great report, as always!
Wishing you the best for a happy, healthy retirement full of family, hiking, and fishing for many years to come.
Your many posts are an inspiring and invaluable resource :)
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