North Lake / South Lake Loop via Lamarck Col - campsite recs

[aethelingas]

Doing a loop from North Lake to South Lake at the end of July via Lamarck Col, so through Darwin Bench/Evolution Basin/Dusy Basin. Planning it as a 4 day, 3 night trip.

Any recommendations for where we should prioritize camping during the 3 nights?

Also would be curious to know any intel on good fishing along this route and/or must-do side quests.

[aethelingas]

Also--is it feasible to do the loop in 4 days? My default plan is:

Day 1 - North Lake to Darwin Bench
Day 2 - Darwin Bench to Big Pete Meadow
Day 3 - Big Pete Meadow to Dusy Basin
Day 4 - Dusy Basin to South Lake

Biggest uncertainty is around how far we can make it on Day 1. Obviously AMS is a risk so there's always a chance we stay put at Lamarck Lakes. It also might take longer than I think with a mid-day start or we run into a thunderstorm, so we'd only make it partway down Darwin Canyon. In that case, we'd adjust the plans for Day 2 and Day 3 accordingly. For context, my buddy and I are experienced backpackers. We have some experience doing cross-country, but not a ton.

[papercup]

It's definitely doable if your fitness is solid, but could become obnoxious if you have tough weather or challenges with fitness or altitude.

Getting over Lamarck Col to Darwin Bench in the first day is doable but challenging. Lamarck Col is a straightforward cross-country pass which is so well-trodden as to be nearly trailed in many parts. But it's still a big climb to around 13,000 feet. If you're rested, fit, and acclimated, great. If you're running on minimal sleep, coming from sea level, working your way into shape, and starting mid-day, it'll be a real pain. If you handle that day fine, I think you'll be fine for the rest of it too. Camping at Lower Lamarck Lake is a great option to acclimate on your first night, but the remaining days wouldn't flow as well. I think your timing is good if you're prepared to take on Lamarck Col on day one; if not I'd try to add another night, camp at Lower Lamarck Lake on night one, and then do the rest of it as scheduled from there.

Camping is generally good in the places you're considering. There's nice camping at the lowest lake in Darwin Canyon and in Darwin Bench. LeConte Canyon is full of campsites along pretty much its entire length, minus the very highest portions. It can be crowded here given the popularity of the trail and the fact that the canyon is fairly narrow, so you might struggle to find a beautiful private site, but there are some very nice ones. Dusy Basin is also beautiful and full of great camping. There, I'd suggest heading off-trail a bit and looking for a nice site at one of the lakes in the upper basin.

I doubt you'll have a lot of time for side quests, unless you add more time or are super fit, but some options include (1) wandering to some of the lakes east of Sapphire in the Evolution Basin, (2) climbing Davis Lake Pass west of Wanda (quick and easy if you're just going to the top for the view; longer and harder if you want to go down the other side and back out), (3) general rambling and exploration in Dusy Basin. If you're into peakbagging, there are plenty of options of various difficulties, including the various Evolution peaks, Black Giant, Goddard, and Agassiz.

[scottmiller]

I didn't find a lot of campsite options at Upper Lamarck Lake, but there are some. I ended up on a knoll above the lake; real pretty view of the lake but very exposed if the weather got bad. At the lowest Darwin lake, look around in the small trees just north of the lake. There are some cozy spots there.
The biggest challenge I had was walking down the Darwin Lakes. There is a boulder field between lakes 3 and 4 that can be tiring after a long trek over the pass. I found it easier to cross a little bit away from the lake. At the shore, you get into car-sized boulders that I am not fond of. I have seen people camp at the upper Darwin Lakes, so if you're knackered by the time you get there and one more boulder crossing is too much, you can stay there. But I like it better at the lowest lake. Most of the trip down the lakes is easy-ish and worth it to get to the glorious bench.

[stevet]

If you are good for ~12 mile days a four day trek is doable, and if you stop short of Darwin bench or basin for night one you'll have a couple of those. Toss a couple extra bars and some Justin's "nutella" packets so you have extra fuel for the 2-3 extra trail hours on those long days.

Are you driving up the morning of and planning to hike in, or will you be staying in the vicinity of North Lake trailhead the night before?

If driving up the morning of and have zero acclimation Lower Lamarck Lake and Upper Lamarck Lake are probably the best bets if you aren't sure of making it all the way to Darwin Basin. I've stayed at the tarn below Lamarck Pass without an acclimation night, did okay, but woke a couple times feeling like there was a refrigerator sitting on my chest. Since we each handle elevation differently, sleeping "lower" would be better than the tarn.

On the other hand, if you will be in the vicinity the night before, camping at the North Lake campground, or Onion Valley, or even higher (though further away) Horseshoe Meadow will give you a leg up and make a night at the tarn workable. If you prefer a night in a bed instead of camping the night before, check Parcher's, Cardinal Village, or even a room at Mammoth Lakes.

A night at the tarn probably sets night 2 in the vicinity of Helen Lake (camping south toward Black Giant Pass) or somewhere between the 2 tarns below it. With that can still with a big down then up day gain the lower Dusy Basin for night 3. (and camping anywhere before the drop into LeConte is prettier than Big Pete Meadow).