My primary goal was to visit the Lyell Fork meadows and maybe upper basin utilizing the popular Rafferty Creek trailhead. I also planned to visit Bernice Lake, Gallison Lake and all the little lakes up the Lewis Creek basin.
Just days before the trip, consecutive showers and thunderstorms were forecast so I made alternate plans for a shorter trip. However, on the eve of the trip, predicted rain totals reduced to ~0.01 inch so I looked forward to my original plan.
My first night’s campsite was at Vogelsang Lake on a ledge that afforded me views of both the lake and the mountain ranges to the northwest. But I was also entertained by Clark’s nutcrackers flying from tree to tree, digging into pine cones for seeds.
Familiar views of Fletcher and Vogelsang Peaks
Camp at Vogelsang Lake
Clark’s Nutcracker
The next day, after crossing over Vogelsang Pass, I paused to survey the cross country route from Gallison Lake. Continuing down from the pass, I entered a lush meadow which the Lewis Creek slowly wound through. But what caught my attention was the abundance of sparrow-sized birds flying among the scattered lodgepole pines. The birds were always just far enough away that I had trouble identifying them. The only notable features I observed were the white outer tail feathers. A few hundred feet from the edge of the meadow were some granite benches that I was certain would provide excellent campsites.
Gallison and Bernice Lakes
I continued down the Lewis Creek trail, past another similar meadow, also inhabited with the same birds with the white outer tail feathers. After resting and filling up my water at one of the water slide portions of the river, I took a left up the trail that was signed “Isberg Pass”. I initially struggled to follow the trail due to the many fallen trees. The trail became more distinct but was mostly viewless due to the pines. I dislike trees. I mean, I like trees, but I dislike hiking through or camping among dense clusters of trees that give me the feeling of being closed in, make navigation more difficult and block views. Since I was uncertain of my next water source, I stopped to camp in a small clearing at the second stream flowing down from Cony Crags.
Camp below Cony Crags
The following day’s hike led closer to the edge of the mountain and finally provided classic panoramic Yosemite views. It was barely over 2 miles to the cutoff point where I would leave the trail in the direction of the Lyell Fork meadows. The cross section portion was easy as I just had to maintain a general direction over vast polished granite slabs, through small patches of pine, and over small granite outcrops. I only had to backtrack once when I came to the end of a short cliff with a gully keeping me from forward progress. After retreating, I was able to easily walk into and up the gully, past a waterfall, and up the next granite outcrop.
Classic Yosemite panoramas as I head east
Off trail towards Lyell Fork
If you see this, retreat and look for an easy entrance into the gully
Walk past this waterfall along the gully
I found an ideal campsite with sublime views of the Lyell fork curving around an island framed below Mt Ansel Adams. Scattered trees provided the perfect filtered shade for today’s warm and clear afternoon. With new reports of a storm in the next few days, I decided to limit my stay here to 1 night which meant I had to day hike to the upper basin today. After a little over an hour from camp and ~300’ more to get to the top, I stopped to work out a puzzling wall section. Unfortunately, my mind was still at camp below wading in the river under the warm sun. It was an easy decision to abandon the climb.
Iconic view of Lyell Fork
300’ below the Lyell Fork basin
300’ below the Lyell Fork basin
Granite patterns
Mount Clark
After enjoying the river and doing some laundry, I noticed the same sparrow-sized birds with the white outer tail feathers I had been seeing the past couple days. This time, I was able to get a better look. Dark, almost black head, with brown wings and lighter colored belly. Hmm, they sure look like the Dark-eyed Juncos that proliferate my Bay Area neighborhood. I’m now certain, and a little disappointed, they are common Dark-eyed Juncos. These Yosemite Juncos gave short chip sounds instead of the sharp prolonged twills that I am more familiar with at home.
Dark-eyed Junco
Early light
On the fourth day, I reluctantly left the Lyell Fork. While backtracking up the Lewis Creek trail, I discovered the perfect granite chair where one could watch and listen to the cascading creek. There was even a built in cup holder behind the chair! But be warned, once you sit down, it takes a tremendous effort to get back up to continue your hike.
Perfect seat along Lewis Creek
Lewis Creek
Mariposa Lily in the middle of the trail
I was getting consistent reports of thunderstorms approaching so I decided to skip the detour up Bernice Lake and avoid the exposed section around Gallison Lake. Instead, I was drawn back to that first meadow below Vogelsang Pass that captivated me a few days earlier so found a campsite on the granite benches I had spotted previously. In the late afternoon, after filling my bottles at the stream, I sat still in the meadow to watch the birds go about their business. A few hopped across the grass looking for seeds. Others darted about as if they were late for their appointments. I also saw groups of about 3 following each other from tree to tree, like chums out on a night on the town. I was able to distinguish the Juncos with their white outer tail feathers. But I also saw a group of smaller birds that may have been chickadees or nuthatches. They were too far away to identify but I was able to discern their small size and gray/white/dark colors. I recalled Harlen extolled the benefits of binoculars in a past trip report and wish I had brought a pair.
Meadow below Vogelsang Pass – If you don’t want to go all the way to Lyell Fork?
Campsite by the meadow below Vogelsang Pass
Meadow below Vogelsang Pass
I went to sleep undecided on how to spend my next few days. Moderate thundershowers remained in the forecast. My options were to sleep in and take a short hike to Vogelsang Lake and prepare for the early afternoon storm or exit. At about 5:30am, I was awakened by footsteps on the granite outside my tent that was most probably a bear checking me out. Since I was already awake, I wasn’t in the mood to sleep in anymore. So I made the decision to exit.
How about sending some trailbuilders and some of these rocks from Vogelsang Pass to the trail between Lewis Creek and the Merced?
At the pass, I was fortunate to come across a white-tailed ptarmigan. He was well camouflaged among the granite and I would have walked by without noticing him if it weren’t for his chirpy clucks calling for my attention. The rest of the hike down the dusty Rafferty Creek trail was quick and about half a mile from the parking lot, I heard the first loud clap of thunder followed by drenching rain. The weather forecast was spot-on. It was a good time to exit.
White-tailed Ptarmigan
