R03/R04 TR: Sierra "Vacation" #1: Bear Lakes Basin Loop 8/1-8/5 2020

[astrogerly]

Okay, going to try giving this trip report writing thing a whirl. I've never been the best at it, so please bear with me. It's short and sweet, but that's how I roll most days... probably due to all the writing I have to do for work.

My husband and I have tried for several years to get to Bear Lakes Basin, but it's always evaded us because of heinous weather and the timing of our vacations. We are in the Sierra nearly every weekend - backpacking, hiking, skiing, etc. - but we can't always be flexible with our vacation timing due to work projects and the such. This year was different in so many ways. Work has been encouraging taking time off due to COVID and working at home (which means working more than normal since no commute). Permits were "easier" to acquire, but also left a lot of unknowns due to how far in advance we had to get them. The stars were aligning for a rare "peak season" backpacking vacation for us.

We had PERFECT weather and conditions this trip - well, except for that firm snow field below Feather Pass. Alpenglow every morning and evening. A nice breeze and very few skeeters, only sprayed once in the forested area as we headed down from Merriam. We were happy to see a lot of wildflowers still too. For three straight days we pretty much saw nobody and had lakes to ourselves which seemed so odd for August in the High Sierra. We did briefly cross paths with a few folks at Merriam Lake when we were setting up camp... they were going to try and get to BLB that day. We wondered if they were going to make it based on when they departed Merriam. We also heard and saw the Chinook on Monday evening doing the recovery off Mt. Humphreys. Overall, really great trip. Nice to be "off the trail" and just enjoy some quiet time in the High Sierra. Enjoy some highlights from what has become the best backpacking trip we have been on, not counting our wedding at Muriel. Happy to answer questions/comments too since I'm better at that than a lengthy summary. Sorry for the photo quality too, had to re-size them.

Summary:
Aug 1 - Pine Creek to Granite Park (lots of folks!)
Aug 2 - Granite Park - Italy Pass - Dancing Bear Pass - Big Bear Lake (saw no one + lots of BLB exploring)
Aug 3 - Big Bear Lake - Feather Pass - Merriam Lake (briefly saw a group at Merriam, provided beta on the route)
Aug 4 - Merriam Lake to French Lake (saw no one, lots of exploring of lakes, "rest" day)
Aug 5 - French Lake to Pine Creek (saw lots of folks as got closer to the trailhead)

Morning magic hour in Granite Park

The views in BLB were outstanding!

Dave and I were enjoying the terrain and views

So many wildflowers were still hanging around

Magic hour at Big Bear Lake

Once up the "firm" snow, I could enjoy the views. Feather Pass felt like a cakewalk after the snow. Also would have been good for a turn or two on the twin plans...

LaSalle reminds me a little of my home state from this angle (at least the Lower Peninsula of it). The descent left something to be desired...

Dave enjoying the lack of boulder hopping/talus. Neither of us minded though since our packs were so light.

Look at that sandy beach calling my name...

Morning alpenglow at Merriam.

Enjoying the multiple beaches while walking around French Lake

[grampy]

“... so please bear with me ...”

Sweet ! Both correct usage, AND a pun (intended or not).

Awesome TR, and wonderful images.
Thank you for posting it !

[windknot]

Great report and photos of a lovely area -- thanks for taking the time to share!

[astrogerly]

@grampy and @windknot Thank you! It's such an amazing area and we were so thankful that all worked out and we were able to finally make it back there! Now we can't wait to go back and explore more...

@grampy It might have been intended

[SweetSierra]

Thanks for the trip report and the beautiful photos. The sunrise photo at Merriam Lake makes me want to stay there. We had snow at Feather Pass but not as much as you experienced. Glad all the stars aligned and you and your husband were able to do this trip.

[giantbrookie]

Very nice trip. You packed a lot of quality places and hiking into 5 days. In doing so I'd be willing to bet you took a much better route from Italy to Dancing Bear Pass than that unfortunate backpacker that had Dawn and I watching with disbelief (see the July 21-28 Pine-Morgan report).

I'm also struck by the parallel of you and your husband being thwarted several times in getting to Bear Basin before this trip. My wife and I had a similar string of experiences but we crammed them all into one year: 1992. Attempt no. 1--couldn't get walk up wilderness permit so changed target and went out of Convict Canyon over the crest to Ram Lakes (very nice trip in fact). Attempt no. 2--got wilderness permit but got hammered by severe and sustained thunderstorms. Our original plan was to try to go in via Granite-Bear but we started getting pelted a bit above Pine Lake. We eventually veered off to Golden Lake to take shelter, then settled on a less ambitious destination and headed to Royce 4 (and then hiked out via Pine Creek Pass). The third attempt in 1992 succeeded in perfect weather of September. We punched it into Black Bear on day 1 via Granbear, a seriously rough first day that had us on the point of collapse when we crested out. We spent a layover day exploring Bear Basin and then hiked out on day 3. In those days there were these absurdly high water bars on the Pine Creek trail (ie the steep part between TH and Pine Creek). They were so high, my 5'1" wife had to use her hands to boost herself over. The trail was banned for all future trip planning, but I noticed when I descended it a couple weeks ago that the water bars are now ordinary size.

Great trip, so if this is Sierra Vacation #1, what will #2 be?

[astrogerly]

@SweetSierra Thank you! We absolutely loved Merriam Lake. We got there fairly early in the day, around 1330 or so, but really wanted to make sure we got to enjoy sunrise so didn't mind lounging and exploring for most of the afternoon. I spent quite a bit of time just sitting on the "beach" and it was wonderful. Normally I'm all about the snow since I love skiing and it can make traveling over talus easier, but once I was about 1/2 way up and one foot started to loose grip a bit (thanks to a bit of nerve damage in my legs... right leg gets a bit shakier at times), I knew it was time to move with a bit more urgency. Luckily Dave had cut some decent tiny steps for me.

[astrogerly]

@giantbrookie Thanks! We had planned on 6 days, but we got to Big Bear Lake early enough on Sunday that we just decided to do our exploration that afternoon rather than wait until Monday. It gave us an extra meal to split that night too since we were hungrier than normal (we do always pack at least one extra meal too... even with our light packs). Ooh, I'll have to go back and re-look at your report. It was funny because Dave kept wanting to stay higher and I was just like "Nope, I see the best route and path of least resistance and you have to trust me." Once we got above the last snow patch, he was happy for my micronav and 'big picture' skills.

Definitely sounds like we've had some similar experiences trying to get there. Our most recent attempt was in Sept 2018 and we just got hailed on every afternoon, so we just did a shorter trip and only enjoyed a small segment of the SHR. After our golf ball size hail experience at Pear Lake several years ago, we err on the side of caution. Probably would have been fine, but it was all good. We just love the time we get in the Sierra... always something special.

As for vacation #2, a lot will depend on if we can get the permits. We've had great luck so far, as we always have had in the past, so we'll see (we've only reserved permits once before this season - for our wedding when we needed 12 spots). We are planning to finish our last segment of the JMT, from the Kearsarge turn-off to Wallace Creek. We did half of it before I killed my back, so now we are finishing in segments when able. After that segment (and camping at Wallace or Wales Lakes), we are going over and exploring the Milestone, Thunder and Lake South America areas and hitting Golden Bear and Lake Reflection somewhere in there too. Planning on 7 days or so to explore (or more). If we can't get that permit, we might go over Lamarck and explore more on the opposite sides of the JMT (climb Spencer and explore the other side of Sapphire Lake, Davis + Martha Lakes, Ionian Basin, etc). That area holds a special place in our hearts as Dave proposed at Evolution Lake... during the Rough Fire. So, we are itching to get back when it's not smoke filled.

[mckee80]

Awesome! I did almost the same exact trip last year. http://www.highsierratopix.com/communit ... =1&t=20072. After climbing Pine Creek, it was 5 star all the way. We had trouble with the descent to LaSalle Lake, too. Thanks for writing this up!

[astrogerly]

@mckee80 I read your report right before we left and kept thinking of your descent to LaSalle when we were going down. There were a few times I sat on my butt and moved from large boulder to large boulder. We found a little dirt path... I was not a fan as it was loose enough that my feet kept sliding at times (I'm not so quick on reaction time with loose dirt). We found a few "easier" looking ways... once we were at the bottom. Funny how it always happens like that. I also think the snow at Feather would have maybe been a little easier later the morning, but you know, retrospect. I completely agree too - after climbing Pine Creek, it was def 5 star all the way!!