Sunday, June 26
Temple Crag from Second Lake
Out and back trip on North Fork of Big Pine Creek. Fair amount of haze in Owens Valley and up into lower mountains apparently from fire (one near Whitney and one up north). Hike in was good, some mosquitoes between lakes 2-4 where trail goes through swampy woodlands. Didn't see any people past Fourth Lake. Went to the trail's end by Sixth Lake but came back a ways to camp on a high point with a great view of the Palisades, etc.
Stayed up and got some photos of the night sky.
Monday, June 27
Hiked back to car; drove to Bishop for next permit. Gave a ride to a PCT thru-hiker back to South Lake trailhead. He had just retired after 25 years in the Great Britain Army. Drove to North Lake trailhead. Hiked the trail to Upper Lamarck Lake then followed the use trail toward the Lamarck Col. Shortly after Upper Lamarck Lake, I passed a hiker who had just finished the loop from South Lake to North Lake and he gave me some tips. I camped up on one of the wide benches short of the Col.
Tuesday, June 28
view from Lamarck Col
Sunset from camp just north of Lamarck Col
So, I'm a photographer and I was really looking forward to creating some great images and actually taking a lot of video on this trip. After breakfast, I went to clean my lenses when I realized all my spare camera stuff, including batteries, must have been left at the trailhead. So my battery was already blinking its final warning and I had four more days to go. Total bummer, but the hike is more important than the photos, so I pressed on with a good attitude. Made it over the Col, and headed down Darwin Canyon and Darwin Bench. Both were pretty spectacular. The Darwin Bench is what I had been expected from Evolution Basin. Just beautiful. As I progressed down the bench, a use trail started to become more obvious and I followed that to the JMT/PCT. When I got there, a good thunderstorm was in progress nearby. Northbounders were chugging into the woods coming from Evolution Basin trying to seek cover from the storm up there. Since I was heading up I hung out and waited for things to calm down. The hikers coming from the South were all bug-eyed telling tales of crazy lightning, wind, and hail between there and Muir Pass. I got to Evolution Lake. Those few little lakes just west/north of Evolution were absolutely beautiful. I assume that's what all of Evolution will look like in another month. After Evolution Lake, things were pretty much still all snow and ice. Another storm prompted me to set the tent up before Wanda Lake. The rain came but the thunder remained fairly distant.
Wednesday, June 29
Wanda Lake
Muir Hut
The entire trail through Evolution was either a mini river or a snowfield. I was wearing trail runners but my Gore-Tex boots would have actually been better on this section. Brief break at Muir Pass but then pressed on. The trail crosses the river soon after the pass on a big snow bridge. Seemed like there was plenty of snow still but it was still a weird feeling to hear the raging river underneath. I can't believe I considered going off the trail at Muir Pass and heading to Ladder Lake via the Black Divide Crossing. The trip down LeConte Canyon was absolutely amazing. The trail turns and you exit that winter world and descend into a beautiful land of summer with wildflower meadows, waterfalls, babbling brooks, trees, butterflies, and soaring granite cliffs. Those hours descending the canyon were pure bliss. I know the northbounders appreciated it too, but their faces were a little more grimaced after walking uphill for so long. I can't believe how many hikers there were. I probably saw 75 people this day. I like solitude, but I didn't care; we all just looked at each other and smiled knowing how amazing it was that we were sharing this special place. Made it all the way down to the trail intersection at the Golden Staircase. Had a beautiful campsite by the river and actually dried my shoes and feet by a fire. Several deer came by to visit. I had planned to visit Hester Lake and climb Langille Peak if I arrived at the LeConte Ranger station early enough. I did, getting there around 2pm, but more thunder above convinced me to stay low for now.
Thursday, June 30
At the top of the Golden Staircase
Worked my way up the Golden Staircase, then headed north when the JMT/PCT turns south toward Mather Pass. The route gets a bit steep not too long after leaving the trail. Made it over pass one but had to pause at the large lake before Potluck Pass because a storm had popped up and threatened to come over my way. Eventually it drifted south so I was able to get up Potluck. Maybe I didn't choose the best route, but it was pretty challenging. I had to take my pack off at one point and boost it up to a ledge I was trying to reach. Got over and made it down to the largest Barrett Lake to set up camp with North Palisade towering over me. Enjoyed my last night out in the wilderness.
At the lake south of Potluck Pass waiting to see what this storm was going to do
From Potluck Pass
Friday, July 1
Camp below North Palisade
Made it over the final pass (Thunderbolt Pass?) and worked my way over to Bishop Pass to join the trail. The trail down from there was really nice and would make a great day hike with all the beautiful lakes and mountain views. As I approached the trailhead I passed two younger (college aged) girls with packs on. They asked about my route because they had been told that Bishop Pass was too snowed in to cross. They were planning on doing the South Lake/North Lake loop, including the Lamarck Col option at the other end. I told them there were just a few small snow patches with good footprints to follow up to Bishop Pass but they would encounter plenty of snow before their trip was over. Got real lucky with a hitch/ride to my car at North Lake with a nice family that camps up there every summer. They said they always drive up to North Lake to check it out so this was their excuse. Wouldn't even take gas money. Got my car, found my camera supplies, and headed back to Vegas to catch my flight back to Florida. It was an amazing trip and hopefully that will satisfy my mountain cravings for a while.
Dusy Basin
