GENERAL OVERVIEW: This pass leads from the lowest Royce Lakes to lake below Merriam Peak on the West Side.
CLASS/DIFFICULTY: Class 2
LOCATION: John Muir Wilderness Directly on the ridge between Royce and Merriam Peaks. HST Map
ELEVATION: 12,208
]USGS TOPO MAP (7.5'): Mt. Hilgard
ROUTE DESCRIPTION:The East side of this pass usually has a permanent snowfield on it which requires an ice ax and likely crampons/micro-spikes depending on the condition of the snow. The bottom of the pass is a jumble of mostly stable talus and boulders. We stayed on the rock as long as possible by contouring around and not going directly up. Once we hit the snow we traversed across and went directly up at the very top. The steepest section at the top is no higher than 30-35 degrees.
The West side of this pass is Class 2 with talus, sand, and ledges. Should pose no route finding issues.
- The East side with the snowfield in early season. Heavier snow fields would cause the entire pass to be a snow climb.
- Traversing across. The steepest section is directly above Rogue.
- Looking down on the East side from the top.
- West side