CLASS/DIFFICULTY: Class 2
LOCATION: HST Map
ELEVATION: 11960
USGS TOPO MAP (7.5'): Mt. Hilgard
DESCRIPTION: It is interesting that this pass is on the HST Map but there is no description or pics in this forum. Markskor and I did this in 2013 from s. to n. We started near the inlet stream near the se corner of Three Island Lake and basically worked our way up to the upper flanks of Gemini Peak. At about 12100 we dropped over the the west ridge where some steepness was encountered--difficult class two where hands were needed as we worked our way down about 100 feet before heading to the pass. This steep section could have been avoided by going higher but that would have entailed a lengthy talus scramble. The cornice at the top was a tad intimidating but we worked our way up the snow to the right (se) to access steep slabs that were also quite intimidating but doable. Later in the season I suspect that the cornice would be gone (at least in a dry year). The bottom 2/3 remained steep but a series of connected grassy ledges made going easy down to Seven Gables lake 10947. I think route options on n. side are somewhat limited. On the s. side there are probably 3 different major options up different little valleys to approach the Pass. We took what we thought was the easiest with the least risk of nasty terrain.
PHOTOS:
- View from just above Three Island Lake toward Gemini Peak. route take goes through saddle below Gemini
- Looking down broad valley to Three Island Lake
- Approaching ridgeline at about 12100 feet, ridge we are crossing is below the skyline ridge on left side of the pic
- Mark beginning to scout the cornice. Our route went up the snow to the right before dropping down to some steep slabs
- Bottom of slabs just before crossing chute below the cornice, Lake 10947
- Working our way down steep grassy ledges to Lake 10947
- View toward Pass from lake 10947, steep ne facing wall of nw ridge of Gemini Peak
- Tele shot of Seven Gables pass from above Vee Lake. Cornice snowfield clearly visible