TR: Loop from McGee Creek

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TR: Loop from McGee Creek

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Headwaters of McGee, Hopkins, Laurel, Fish, Purple and Convict Creeks
7/12-18, 2021


The plan/permit was to go from McGee TH to Convict Lake TH. My husband and I would do a trailer trip to manage car logistics. With the forecast of the “heat dome” we scrapped the trailer trip and I did a loop. The route was a bit of a roller coaster since I chose two longer trail routes on two days instead of direct off-trail routes. In all, the route was 51 miles, with 14,000 feet elevation gain and loss. Although 7 days, the first and last were half days that include a 5-hour drive. I wanted to go over Hopkins Pass because I had never been there and it looked good on the map. But if I were to do this again, I would go over McGee Pass directly to base camp at the Tully-Cotton Lake bench a few days and day-hike to Grinnell and Hortense (which I had never been to). The other new terrain for me was Bunny Lake Pass.


7/12 McGee Creek TH to Big McGee Lake (plus 4.5 hour drive)
7.2 miles, 5.1 hours, +2915/ -360 elevation


I arrived at the trailhead at 10:30, ate lunch and headed out at 11:00. It was hot, but clouds were building which cooled things off occasionally. After 3.5 miles of nearly treeless sage, the trail enters beautiful forests with occasional grassy meadows. I have been on this trail several times before and AGAIN, I missed the log bridge (hidden by brush) at the first crossing. The water was low enough that I could hop rocks and then scramble up the steep embankment to the trail. The second crossing has a huge two-log bridge. Where previously many meadows had shallow lakes, this dry year all the ponds were dried up. There were several day-hikers on the trail and a few people coming down.

I really lost energy when I hit the Steelhead trail junction. Storm clouds were dark to the south (I think Mono Creek got the brunt of this storm). It spit a bit of rain, which I was grateful for, it cooled off by the time I reached Big McGee Lake outlet where I ran into a large family group. I crept at a snail’s pace the additional half mile, 150 feet up over cliffs to drop to the inlet. Fortunately I spotted a perfect campsite sheltered by trees (it was really windy) about 80 feet above the lake, next to a nice little pond and short walk to a small creek for water. I filled water containers and took a bucket bath, feeling much refreshed. I did not have energy to fish; I knew I would be back here at the end, with more time. I cooked dinner and retreated to the tent. The heat, altitude gain and long day got to me; I was totally exhausted.

(The pond in the third photo was totally dry when I returned in a week)



1-2548-49_Big McGee Lk.jpg
2-2565-66_BigMcGee Meadow.jpg
3-2553-54_McGee Pond reflection.jpg
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Re: TR: Loop from McGee Creek

Post by Wandering Daisy »

7/13 Big McGee Lake to Laurel Lake via Hopkins Lake
10.2 miles, 9.0 hours, +2705/ -2905 elevation


The plan was a short day to Lower Hopkins Lake where I would be lazy and fish. Five AM is my normal time to wake and although I did not need to get up so early, I could sleep no more. I left at 7AM and headed up towards Hopkins Pass. I did not find the “trail” lower down but intersected it shortly. When I reached the little tarn north of the pass, I saw that two day-hikers were behind me.

4-2569-70_Tarn.jpg


The trail picks up across the outlet of the tarn and is fairly easy to follow. As you near the pass there are three choices up a short steep section; I took the middle one and then traversed back towards the northeast one topping out on the broad pass. I chose to skip the Upper Hopkins Lakes and descend the valley to the northeast; this looked the best on Google Earth. I followed a faint use-trail until it abruptly went missing at about 10,800 feet. I then just headed to the little saddle north of Lower Hopkins Lake where I picked up a big horse trail. The horse trail turned northwest to avoid the steep hillside, which was fine to go down when not on a horse, and a lot shorter. I reached the outlet at 10:30. I was not that impressed. There were fish in the lake, but also mosquitoes and it was early so I combined planned days 2 and 3. This made for the hardest day of the trip!

5-2576-78_Lower Hopkins Lk.jpg


While on the Mono Creek trail, I ran into several people and a huge pack-string of horses coming up as I descended the two miles to the Laurel Creek trail junction. The packers were very friendly and thanked me for moving off the trail. Shortly I ran into the most obnoxious group of about ten youth. I was half across a creek and instead of waiting the few minutes it would take me to jump the last few rocks they all came barreling towards me nearly knocking me into the creek! Their clueless “leader” took up the rear and said not a word about this ill behavior. It was hot as hell and flies buzzed around me!

When I reached the Laurel Creek trail junction at about 12:45 the flavor of misery was the afternoon sun beating down as I crept up this extremely steep trail. I resorted to the “rest step” used in my climbing days. One step, one breath, repeat, repeat. Was I ever happy to reach the lower meadow! I splashed my face with water and drank freely without treating. The trail disappears in the meadow so I just trudged across what normally would be a swamp. This next section of “trail” climbs about 300 feet to the meadow below Laurel Lake. I was on, then off the trail, then finding it again. Thankfully it became distinct near the top were it traverses a steep cliffy slope.


2580_Laurel Creek.jpg
5A-2596_Laurel Lake.jpg

The meadow below Laurel Lake is absolutely beautiful! I reached Laurel Lake 4PM and had no energy left to continue to Grinnell Lake, where I would have preferred to camp. I found a nice campsite between two huge rocks on the north side of the lake. This location would get the earliest afternoon shade. I set up, bathed, washed some clothes and then tried fishing. I easily caught two “sardines”, and threw them back in; not worth the effort to clean the tiny fish. Again it was very windy and cooking dinner was a challenge, squeezing uncomfortably behind a rock. I then carried my meal out into the wind to lean on a comfortable rock, seeing why some people carry those backpack chairs.


6-2583-84_Laurel Lake.jpg
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Re: TR: Loop from McGee Creek

Post by Wandering Daisy »

7/14 Laurel Lk to Isaak Walton Lake via Grinnell/Rosy Finch/Shout of Relief Pass
4.9 miles, 7.9 hours incl. fishing, +2065/ - 1525 elevation



7-2602-03-05_Grinnell Lake.jpg


At 7:30 I headed to Grinnell Lake route finding on the fly and lucked out easily reaching the lake where I took several photos. My route to the pass above Rosy Finch Lake was less optimal; trying for a straight shot I went too high and had to drop down. There is a good use-trail to the pass and down to Rosy Finch.

8-2613_Rosy Finch.jpg

I stopped to fish for an hour and snagged a silvery Rainbow but it got away. As usual the wind was strong and I could only cast during brief calms. Well, what would I do if I caught a fish mid-day? It took about an hour to get to Shout of Relief Pass. Compared to Rohn Pass (tricky micro route finding) which I have done twice, Shout of Relief Pass is straight-forward even if it has a bit more elevation gain.

9-2619-20_Bench above Tully L.jpg

I dropped down the southeastern lake on the bench and stopped at what I thought was Cotton Lake. Here is where I needed the map I forgot to take. I mistook the label for this small lake, the actual Cotton Lake being off the map I had. I started up the gully thinking it was the route to Isaak Walton; after climbing quite high I realized I was wrong so I skirted over the ridge and dropped back down to the bench and finally came to the “real” Cotton Lake, instantly recognizing it. Then I circled around the north shore not seeing many hidden bays. Now without a map, with a few wrong turns, I found a way to Isaak Walton Lake. I either had not noticed on previous visits or forgot that there was a beautiful the little valley south of the lake.

16-2662-3_view IW upper valley.jpg


Not having a map, I was reluctant to move on to Hortense Lake. It was already 4:00 and although I had enough energy if everything went right, it could end up ugly if something went wrong. So I stayed. After setting up the tent, I walked up the hill and found another beautiful meadow with a shallow lake, surrounded by stunning peaks. I could not remember if Lake Isaak Walton had fish. I walked to the outlet fishing on the way, not seeing any sign of fish. I did catch some good photos. It was interesting that I did not notice many birds at Laurel Lake, whereas the Isaak Walton Lake valley was full of bird songs.

11-2627-28_upper valley lake.jpg


I managed to get a huge blister on the bottom side of a toe. I soaked my feet in the cool stream and decided to wait until morning to see if it needed lancing. I had not seen a single person this day. Overall, it was a good and rather easy day.


12-2636-37_Lk IW outlet meadow.jpg
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Re: TR: Loop from McGee Creek

Post by Wandering Daisy »

7/15 Isaak Walton Lake to Franklin Lake, +dh Hortense Lake
9.8 miles, 8.7 hours, +2525/ -2000 elevation



My goal was to minimally reach Virginia Lake. This would leave time for a two hour day-hike to Hortense Lake without fishing. Without a map I just follow my eyes which resulted in passing many lush grassy meadows and Mace Lake, to the south side of Hortense Lake rather than my original plan to the north side. I scrambled down cliffs and walked the east shore until I came to a small cliff, and did not want to get my feet wet continuing. I returned via a mellow route that would be more appropriate with a backpack. By the time I returned and packed up it was 9:40.

15-2658_Mace Lake.jpg
13-2646_Hortense Lake.jpg
14-2652-53_Hortense Lake.jpg

I think one could drop off-trail directly from Hortense Lake to Tully Hole. The more conservative, although longer route (especially without a map) would be to return to Tully Lake and take the maintained trail. I found a perfect route to Tully Lake since this was my third trip to this location. Good thing I was not bound for McGee Pass because I totally missed the trail junction. I ran into two trail runners; where in the world did they start? It was about 10:30 in the morning and they were headed up towards McGee Pass.

18-2686_L Frankln camp (2).jpg
The map is outright wrong regarding the trail to Horse Heaven. There are half a dozen huge long shallow switch-backs not shown descending the very steep slope adjacent to a stunning rock canyon. I estimated it was 3 miles from Tully Lake to Tully Hole. It could be a bit more. Another surprise;
the “footbridge” is no more. Thankfully water was low enough to hop rocks.

Now on the PCT/JMT I ran into lots of people. Going up the almost 1,000 feet to Virginia Lake was horribly hot. Again I did the “rest step” stopping often for a sip of water. Virginia Lake was rough with white-caps and it only 2:00. Without prospect of fishing, I decided to continue towards the pass above Glennette Lake. I had been up this valley before, but somehow veered up a parallel ridge and became confused. I was thankful when I ran into two familiar small lakes and a faint use-trail. Since I had been up and down this valley before, taking two different routes, I knew the trick and was soon on the pass at 3:00.

I debated if I should drop to Glennette Lake, which would be out of the wind and good fishing or continue to the Franklin Lakes. I hemmed and hawed as I zig and zagged, finally heading up the ridge and dropped right into the lower Franklin Lake. It was 4:00 and I was tired so set up on the only flat spot of grass at the inlet. The wind howled and setting up the tent was a challenge. There were plenty of rocks for additional tie-downs. I washed my shirt, took a bath, wind-dried, and hunted for any place out of the wind to cook dinner. I found a cramped hollow wedged behind a huge rock, with a little constructed “kitchen.” Cooking was a pain.

Well, a short after-dinner stroll upstream to the outlet of the upper Franklin Lake revealed tons of sandy campsites nestled in among stunted trees. If I had only gone 10 more minutes! I retreated to the tent as the wind howled, eventually dying down to occasional gusts all night.


18-2686_L Frankln camp (1).jpg
19-2690_Upper Franlkin outlet.jpg
20-2691_L Franklin Lk AM.jpg
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Re: TR: Loop from McGee Creek

Post by Wandering Daisy »

7/16 Franklin Lake to Lake Wi-So-Nah-Pah via Bunny Lake Pass +fish Constance Lake
7.8 miles, 7.3 hours, +1620/ -2655 elevation


I awoke to a mirror-calm lake. Just after I finished cooking breakfast, the fish started to rise! Had I just slept in a bit I would have had fish for breakfast. I packed up and left at 7AM. It took 3 hours to reach Cloverleaf Lake via Bunny Lake Pass. I had copied the description of the route from our forum. It was right on!

It was relatively easy to skirt between sandy stringers along the northern shore of Franklin Lake. I followed the description finding the cairns. The short 3rd class section was no problem. My mistake was to think I saw a better route across the gully; once I got across it was not the best idea. But it was only a short time of misery until I reached the top.

21-2696-7_Cloverleaf Lake.jpg

Descending to Cloverleaf Lake was more challenging, not in terrain difficulty but in route-finding. There is mostly a use-trail down to Bunny Lake; that was relatively easy. But continuing to Cloverleaf was not obvious. And damned those metric maps- much detail is obliterated with the larger contour interval. One has to skirt around numerous willow patches. I am glad I had been to the lake before and studied my photos, to know locations of the willow clumps. Had it been a wet year, I would have had more trouble; this year I could cross a lot of what would normally be swampy meadows. I basically headed to the west end of the lake and picked up a fisherman’s trail along the northern shoreline.

22-2698-2700_Edith Lake.jpg

The “trail” down to beautiful Edith Lake is highly eroded and a braided mess and missing parts. Then the trail becomes well maintained to Lake Genevieve. This was the only place where I ran into significant mosquitoes. Perhaps it was just that the wind had died down. I did not stay long, took a few photos. The trail goes up about 400 feet onto a ridge the north of Dorothy Lake where I ate lunch with an amazing view of the tortured rock in multiple colors above Mildred Lake and the long flat valley to the south. Unfortunately, the lighting was wrong; afternoon light is better for photos.

23-2705_Lake Genevieve.jpg
24-2710_MIldred Lake valley.jpg

I dropped to Dorothy Lake where I began to run into people. It was a weekend. I had thought of camping at Dorothy Lake just before the trail heads uphill to Bighorn Lake, but there was a large group of campers. They were very friendly and had already caught fish and showed me where the trail continued. The use-trail to the campsites is actually more distinct than the real trail. The continuing trail to Lake Wi-So-Nah-Pah became very faint- barely visible. After my experience at lower Franklin Lake, I decided to camp at the less windy Lake Wi-So-Nah-Pa
Arriving at Lake Wi-So-Nah-Pah at 1:30 I considered multiple campsites and settled on a grassy flat south of the inlet pond and on the southwest edge of the lush upper meadow. It was a bit out of the wind.

25-2720-21_Dorothy Lk.jpg
28-2756_Camp.jpg

After the usual setting up, bathing and washing clothes I headed up to Constance Lake to fish. I had a few bites but the wind picked up and soon it was impossible to cast. Afternoon light on the colorful rock of Mt. Baldwin is amazing. I took pictures. I wish I could have been here for sunset. Sigh. So it was back at camp to fish Lake Wi-So-Nah-Pah outlet, again with little luck. I gave up and cooked a fishless dinner.


26-2750-51_Constance Lk.jpg
27-327-2735_Mt Baldwin-Constance Lake.jpg
29-2764-5_Red Slate Mtn above Constance L (2).jpg
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Re: TR: Loop from McGee Creek

Post by Wandering Daisy »

7/17 Lake Wi-So-Nah-Pa to Big McGee Lake via Corridor Pass + fish Little McGee Lake
4.4 miles, 4.7 hours, +1490/ -1710 elevation


30-2764-5_Red Slate Mtn above Constance L (1).jpg

Morning fishing at Lake Wi-So-Nah-Pah was successful with two fish for breakfast. At 9:15 I headed back up to Constance Lake and continued on to Corridor Pass. The morning sun illuminated Red Slate Mountain, the white rock of Mt. Baldwin now in the shadows. Walking is easy until about 11,500 feet where the route to the pass becomes medium sized blocky rock. The two permanent snowfields were diminished, but I could walk on the upper one due to huge snow cups, I would even call them snow bowls, reaching the pass at noon. I descended 300 feet on several parallel curving rocky moraines before the last steep drop off the toe to a grassy ridge.

31-2766-69_Looking towards Mildred Lk.jpg
33-2777_Looking down towards Constance Lk.jpg
2772-73_moraine.jpg
34-2780_upper south side Corridor Pass.jpg


The remaining route down was through several sets of beautiful grassy strings along a creek, banked with wildflowers. The red rock of the cliffs on either side contrasted with the green grass and bright yellow flowers. When I intersected the McGee Pass Trail, I went up to Little McGee Lake to fish, knowing that if I first dropped to Big McGee Lake to camp, I would never climb back up to fish the smaller lake. Although very scenic, the fishing was poor since it was the wrong time of day.

35-2784-86_south side Corridor Pass.jpg
36-2794-98_Little McGee Lake.jpg

As I descended the trail to Big McGee Lake, a stylish woman with her perfectly clean white dog was sitting next to the trail, glued to her I-phone listening to Bible study lessons. She never looked up as I clumped noisily by. A couple were camped near the lake where I had planned to camp, but I found a nice site up the hill next to a nice little stream for water. This couple was glued to their I-phones, listening to rock music, sitting on those comfy backpack chairs. Their dog barked its head off defending his territory. It is a bit of a shock to come back to “civilization” when still in the backcountry. After setting up I fished with little luck. Just before giving up I walked south of the outlet and caught three nice fish for dinner.

38-2808_McGee Meadow AM (2).jpg



7/18 Big McGee Lake to McGee Creek TH (plus 4.5 hour drive)
7.0 miles, 3.9 hours, +360/ -2915 elevation




38-2808_McGee Meadow AM (1).jpg
2811-12_Lower McGee Meadow.jpg

The walk out was quick and uneventful. It soon became overcast, which was a blessing. Being Sunday the lower trail was full of day-hikers. A large pack train passed and I asked where they were going to need that many horses. They said they were just taking the horses out to get them in shape for later work. One horse had a “NPS” brand, so I assume they would be helping out trail crews.

On the drive home, I had to pass through thick smoke that burned my eyes. I even put on my face mask. A big smoke plume dominated the sky. It even produced a sprinkle. Once over Echo Pass skies cleared and it again was hot and sunny.
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Re: TR: Loop from McGee Creek

Post by giantbrookie »

What a gorgeous trip and nifty route! I've visited most of those places but as part of something like five different trips. The thought of stringing them all together in one week-long trip with such a scenic off trail route is really outstanding. I just love the colors in that area. Nice!
Since my fishing (etc.) website is still down, you can be distracted by geology stuff at: http://www.fresnostate.edu/csm/ees/facu ... ayshi.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: TR: Loop from McGee Creek

Post by gary c. »

Sounds like a great trip. And you pictures never disappoint.
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Re: TR: Loop from McGee Creek

Post by tahoefoothills »

Great report. I was especially interested because I left from McGee Creek on 7/15 and exited at Mosquito Flat on 7/18 traveling via McGee Pass, Shout-of-Relief Pass, via Laurel Lake and then back down to Mono Creek Trail and out over Mono Pass. We looked at Hopkins Pass and Grinell Pass, but had some reservations about them both. Anyway, we had a fine trip, although quite a bit shorter than what you did.
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Re: TR: Loop from McGee Creek

Post by sekihiker »

Interesting trip. Nice photos and report. Thanks for posting.
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