TR: Ottoway Lake Loop Sept. 23rd to 29th.
Posted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:34 pm
I have a friend who is a noob backpacker. He begged me to take him on a multi-day trip into the backcountry, so I agreed. First I prepared him as best I could by taking him on an early season trip (Kibbie Lake) so he could get familiar with all of the gear I was outfitting him with and get used to a way of life he was not used to and learn the rules to keep him safe. (“No gawking while you are walking!”) After that I decided on a moderate hike within his abilities with lots of bang for the buck. Even though I have done parts of this hike four times, I decided to take him on the Ottoway Lake Loop September 23 to the 29th. (I did a story in Sierra Trails for the first time I did it: http://www.doylewdonehoo.com/ottoway/ottoway001.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;). I heard tell there was a daisy wandering around out there at about the same time, but I saw neither hide nor hair.
I thought as a compromise I could do a few trail segments I have not done yet, but my trail partner was not up to it, so I did not get to do anything new. What was interesting was that I have always done this trip at the end of September, but this September was unlike any September I have ever experienced in the Sierra. The flora and weather was more like mid-August than late September: the streams were full, the meadows (the high ones) were green, there was still snow around the passes, there was still plenty of flowers, and there were still a few mosquitoes around in the wet areas. Streams that were dried up in other trips were flowing and often wet crossings. Here is a map of the route: http://www.doylewdonehoo.com/ottoway/ottowaymap.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
Sept 23rd, Day 1, 7.1 miles, 1422+ 1494- altitude gain and lost: We started from glacier point around 2PM, unfortunately. The weather was threatening, and rain would dog our trip for the next three days. There would not be time to go around Panorama Point and take the higher trail to Clark Fork, so we headed down the Illilouette drainage trail. It was not long before we were stopped (one of many) by the occasional showers. On this days segment, the start and endpoints are about the same altitude, with a downhill and uphill dip in the middle. Illilouette Creek was a broad-ish wet crossing, but by that time the weather was improving and it would be dry the rest of the day. It was the usual trudge up the hill to the Clark Fork, which we reached just about sundown. So, I familiarized my pard with the evening drill of making camp and getting dinner together in the dark, no small task for the uninitiated. One thing about “bad” weather: it can make for dramatic pictures.
Sept 24th, Day 2, 9.3 Miles, 3090+, 542-: It was a sunny morning, but there were clouds in the sky, never a good sign in the Sierra. It would be a day of dramatic weather in the Sierra, and a bit scary. As we ascended and gained the granite paved high country, the thunder began. I have never experienced anything like it. Peals, crashes, rips, and explosions of thunder that tore across the sky from horizon to horizon that went on and on with barely a pause between events that lasted for hours. Once in a while it would drizzle a bit and we would park under a tree and listen to the uproar. Occasionally there would be a flash, but mostly it was cloud to cloud. We were basically in deep forest NW of Merced Pass Lake at that point, but by the time we got to the trail junction, it was settling down and to the west of us. The rest of the way to Ottoway Lake was warm and dry, and I was again surprised by all the water in the streams (all dry in other years), requiring some rock-hopping skills. With the slow pace, I had time to take note of all of the camp-sites and potential camp-sites along the way near falls, meadows and pools. They may come in handy in the crowded mid-season. Anyway, we got to camp at Ottoway Lake (a really good one), still a bit too late for my liking. We had missed out on the Panorama Trail route, and this night we also missed out on what is usually one the best alpine-glow spots of the Sierra because of the cantankerous weather. Oh well, we made it on schedule, which meant the rest of the trip was assured. More than one time I thought I would have to change plans to accommodate my inexperienced pard. I was practically leaping for joy when he made it into camp. That night was clear, which made for a great star-gazing session. When I returned from this trip, I had heard that funds had been raised, and nearly this whole route had been worked over by trail crews. I saw the evidence everywhere, in particular with clean new stairs here and there. They also took out the unsightly huge fire pit in camp, a big improvement.
Sept 25th, Day 3, 7.7 Miles, 1867+, 2405-: Another mostly clear morning, but again there were clouds, not a good sign when you would be going over a pass. We got out of camp as quickly as possible, and as it got more and more cloudy, I started to lash the whip on my pard to pick up his normally slow pace. I did not want to be on a pass in a thunderstorm. I would turn back if that was a possibility. The clouds were getting very dark overhead, but fortunately, it was fairly clear over the pass. I gave my pard a High-5 when he reached the pass summit, telling him he was a REAL backpacker now that he had cleared his first pass.
After an extended rest and no threat from the weather (it got down-right sunny), we headed down. The first obstacle was frozen ice and snow on the trail near the top. Not much of a problem for me, but I needed to take precautions for my pack-buddy. So I chopped some steps in the icy snow and we relayed the packs (and ourselves) past the steep slippery spot, and were on our way.
This section is pretty spectacular, with far views, the contact zone between metamorphic and granite, the talus cluttered terrain studded with ponds, the birds eye view of Red Devil Lake, and the ever changing flora. The trail was still as rocky as ever with the occasional annoying rock filled trail-bins (which I tended to go around), but there were so real trail improvements. I remember one trail section that dumps you out on the high plateau that was pretty bad, but now has been transformed with a sweeping curved staircase.
By this time it was getting cloudy again as we continued our slow way to the Triple Fork camp. Actually, knowing what I know now, we should have made our way down to the small lakes on the Merced Peak Fork. A missed opportunity. By the time we got to camp, it was getting late and it started to rain. We spent an uncomfortable night there, but the next morning the skies were clear, as they would be for the rest of the trip. The night had brought a welcome freeze and icy tents. So that morning I decided we should take advantage of the ample slab-granite to dry out all of our gear. Soon an expanse of dry granite resembled a yard-sale with our drying gear. This gave us a rare opportunity to explore the white granite covered countryside. Eventually everything was once again bone-dry so we could pack up and leave.
I will post more later in Part 2. (Pictures may be in reverse order below. There were more pictures, but I maxed the limit. )
I thought as a compromise I could do a few trail segments I have not done yet, but my trail partner was not up to it, so I did not get to do anything new. What was interesting was that I have always done this trip at the end of September, but this September was unlike any September I have ever experienced in the Sierra. The flora and weather was more like mid-August than late September: the streams were full, the meadows (the high ones) were green, there was still snow around the passes, there was still plenty of flowers, and there were still a few mosquitoes around in the wet areas. Streams that were dried up in other trips were flowing and often wet crossings. Here is a map of the route: http://www.doylewdonehoo.com/ottoway/ottowaymap.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
Sept 23rd, Day 1, 7.1 miles, 1422+ 1494- altitude gain and lost: We started from glacier point around 2PM, unfortunately. The weather was threatening, and rain would dog our trip for the next three days. There would not be time to go around Panorama Point and take the higher trail to Clark Fork, so we headed down the Illilouette drainage trail. It was not long before we were stopped (one of many) by the occasional showers. On this days segment, the start and endpoints are about the same altitude, with a downhill and uphill dip in the middle. Illilouette Creek was a broad-ish wet crossing, but by that time the weather was improving and it would be dry the rest of the day. It was the usual trudge up the hill to the Clark Fork, which we reached just about sundown. So, I familiarized my pard with the evening drill of making camp and getting dinner together in the dark, no small task for the uninitiated. One thing about “bad” weather: it can make for dramatic pictures.
Sept 24th, Day 2, 9.3 Miles, 3090+, 542-: It was a sunny morning, but there were clouds in the sky, never a good sign in the Sierra. It would be a day of dramatic weather in the Sierra, and a bit scary. As we ascended and gained the granite paved high country, the thunder began. I have never experienced anything like it. Peals, crashes, rips, and explosions of thunder that tore across the sky from horizon to horizon that went on and on with barely a pause between events that lasted for hours. Once in a while it would drizzle a bit and we would park under a tree and listen to the uproar. Occasionally there would be a flash, but mostly it was cloud to cloud. We were basically in deep forest NW of Merced Pass Lake at that point, but by the time we got to the trail junction, it was settling down and to the west of us. The rest of the way to Ottoway Lake was warm and dry, and I was again surprised by all the water in the streams (all dry in other years), requiring some rock-hopping skills. With the slow pace, I had time to take note of all of the camp-sites and potential camp-sites along the way near falls, meadows and pools. They may come in handy in the crowded mid-season. Anyway, we got to camp at Ottoway Lake (a really good one), still a bit too late for my liking. We had missed out on the Panorama Trail route, and this night we also missed out on what is usually one the best alpine-glow spots of the Sierra because of the cantankerous weather. Oh well, we made it on schedule, which meant the rest of the trip was assured. More than one time I thought I would have to change plans to accommodate my inexperienced pard. I was practically leaping for joy when he made it into camp. That night was clear, which made for a great star-gazing session. When I returned from this trip, I had heard that funds had been raised, and nearly this whole route had been worked over by trail crews. I saw the evidence everywhere, in particular with clean new stairs here and there. They also took out the unsightly huge fire pit in camp, a big improvement.
Sept 25th, Day 3, 7.7 Miles, 1867+, 2405-: Another mostly clear morning, but again there were clouds, not a good sign when you would be going over a pass. We got out of camp as quickly as possible, and as it got more and more cloudy, I started to lash the whip on my pard to pick up his normally slow pace. I did not want to be on a pass in a thunderstorm. I would turn back if that was a possibility. The clouds were getting very dark overhead, but fortunately, it was fairly clear over the pass. I gave my pard a High-5 when he reached the pass summit, telling him he was a REAL backpacker now that he had cleared his first pass.
After an extended rest and no threat from the weather (it got down-right sunny), we headed down. The first obstacle was frozen ice and snow on the trail near the top. Not much of a problem for me, but I needed to take precautions for my pack-buddy. So I chopped some steps in the icy snow and we relayed the packs (and ourselves) past the steep slippery spot, and were on our way.
This section is pretty spectacular, with far views, the contact zone between metamorphic and granite, the talus cluttered terrain studded with ponds, the birds eye view of Red Devil Lake, and the ever changing flora. The trail was still as rocky as ever with the occasional annoying rock filled trail-bins (which I tended to go around), but there were so real trail improvements. I remember one trail section that dumps you out on the high plateau that was pretty bad, but now has been transformed with a sweeping curved staircase.
By this time it was getting cloudy again as we continued our slow way to the Triple Fork camp. Actually, knowing what I know now, we should have made our way down to the small lakes on the Merced Peak Fork. A missed opportunity. By the time we got to camp, it was getting late and it started to rain. We spent an uncomfortable night there, but the next morning the skies were clear, as they would be for the rest of the trip. The night had brought a welcome freeze and icy tents. So that morning I decided we should take advantage of the ample slab-granite to dry out all of our gear. Soon an expanse of dry granite resembled a yard-sale with our drying gear. This gave us a rare opportunity to explore the white granite covered countryside. Eventually everything was once again bone-dry so we could pack up and leave.
I will post more later in Part 2. (Pictures may be in reverse order below. There were more pictures, but I maxed the limit. )