High Sierra Topix

I am planning a mountaineering trip for early July this summer and was considering climbing Mt Ritter, either by the Southeast Glacier or North Face. The standard approach from Agnew Meadows trailhead looks like it may have a few potential problems. 1) It involves crossing the middle fork of the San Joaquin, which I assume may be impassable during the high expected runoff at that time. 2) Reds Meadow road will likely be closed. I don't mind walking a few extra miles on the road, but on the Inyo NF website it says there is construction starting in (an unspecified time in) 2023 and no foot traffic will be allowed on the road.

So, my questions are:
Does anyone know how gnarly the ford of the middle fork of the san joaquin going to shadow lake is likely to be? i.e. comparisons from 2017, 2019, etc.

Does anyone know if it is even possible to get to the Agnew Meadows trailheads on foot right now/in the coming months? I will call Inyo NF and ask but figured someone might have tried recently.

Lastly, does anyone have any info on the approach to Ritter from Silver Lake in the June Lake area? I have read a few reports of people approaching Ritter on skis this way but haven't read about anyone backpacking it. It looks like it avoids any significant river crossings but if anyone has first hand experience using this route please share.

Thanks!

graphon wrote: ↑Thu Jun 08, 2023 10:23 pm I am planning a mountaineering trip for early July this summer and was considering climbing Mt Ritter, either by the Southeast Glacier or North Face. The standard approach from Agnew Meadows trailhead looks like it may have a few potential problems. 1) It involves crossing the middle fork of the San Joaquin, which I assume may be impassable during the high expected runoff at that time.

There is a bridge. Usually... no guarantees they're still there after this winter :P

graphon wrote: ↑Thu Jun 08, 2023 10:23 pm2) Reds Meadow road will likely be closed. I don't mind walking a few extra miles on the road, but on the Inyo NF website it says there is construction starting in (an unspecified time in) 2023 and no foot traffic will be allowed on the road.

graphon wrote: ↑Thu Jun 08, 2023 10:23 pmDoes anyone know if it is even possible to get to the Agnew Meadows trailheads on foot right now/in the coming months? I will call Inyo NF and ask but figured someone might have tried recently.

I mean, the route gets skied somewhat frequently from June Lake in the spring & winter. So yeah, it is possible. I've also heard there's also a route via the San Joaquin ridge cross country, but it's been just hearsay rather than anything I have detailed knowledge of.

It's a good year to do the North face route (because the snow covers up the unpleasantness in the Banner-Ritter saddle). But it also makes the cl3 scramble more challenging with something approaching mixed climbing conditions. The glissade down the SE face is *really* good.

Have fun

One time we started from June Lake and camped at Waugh Lake. Then on "summit day" we went up to Lake Catherine. From there we went straight up (southeasterly) the glacier to the Ritter-Banner Saddle. Microspikes would not be overkill. From the saddle, you start toward Ritter proper, but then you swing around to the right until you find the right chute to ascend to the summit. The wrong chutes get problematic.

I am planning on doing Ritter this weekend out of agnew meadows and via the SE Glacier. I will post a report including conditions on reds meadow road, the bridge of the San Joaquin and the water crossings near Ediza.

cole.a wrote: ↑Tue Jun 20, 2023 6:05 pm I am planning on doing Ritter this weekend out of agnew meadows and via the SE Glacier. I will post a report including conditions on reds meadow road, the bridge of the San Joaquin and the water crossings near Ediza.

The water crossing at Ediza’s outlet is optional for Ritter. Stay on the north shore of Ediza lake, there is a brushy use trail and then some talus to hop over. You could also visit Nydiver Lakes, with very little additional milage/gain.

Thanks for all of the helpful info! Good luck with your trip cole.a, interested to hear how it goes.

c9h13no3 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 20, 2023 9:32 pm The water crossing at Ediza’s outlet is optional for Ritter. Stay on the north shore of Ediza lake, there is a brushy use trail and then some talus to hop over. You could also visit Nydiver Lakes, with very little additional milage/gain.

the FS added a log bridge over the Ediza outlet in the last couple years, no guarantee it’s still there after this winter but there is a chance.

cole.a wrote: ↑Tue Jun 20, 2023 6:05 pm I am planning on doing Ritter this weekend out of agnew meadows and via the SE Glacier. I will post a report including conditions on reds meadow road, the bridge of the San Joaquin and the water crossings near Ediza.

Cole.A - did you get into Agnew Meadows trailhead by car? Easily passable or 4WD required? how was trail between Agnew and Shadow Lake? I appreciate any intel you can provide

Chris