Shasta disaster article
Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2022 8:09 pm
Good article, and a mention about "Roping Up".
https://www.latimes.com/california/stor ... at-we-know
"Roping up is one of the most “controversial and contentious” acts in climbing, according to Takeda. If he weren’t absolutely confident in a climbing partner’s ability, he wouldn’t tie himself to them even in moderate terrain. “You’re basically doubling the opportunity to fall.”
Jillian Webster’s older brother Jordan, himself an experienced climber, wonders if his sister would still be alive if they hadn’t roped up. The technique provides a “false sense of security” for the clients, he said, who spend maybe an hour practicing their self-arrest on low-angle terrain, but have no idea how fast things will happen in a real fall.
“If you can’t do it yourself, you probably shouldn’t be there,” Jordan said.
It’s unlikely that guiding companies will discontinue the practice, since the industry is built upon taking people to places they shouldn’t be on their own."
https://www.latimes.com/california/stor ... at-we-know
"Roping up is one of the most “controversial and contentious” acts in climbing, according to Takeda. If he weren’t absolutely confident in a climbing partner’s ability, he wouldn’t tie himself to them even in moderate terrain. “You’re basically doubling the opportunity to fall.”
Jillian Webster’s older brother Jordan, himself an experienced climber, wonders if his sister would still be alive if they hadn’t roped up. The technique provides a “false sense of security” for the clients, he said, who spend maybe an hour practicing their self-arrest on low-angle terrain, but have no idea how fast things will happen in a real fall.
“If you can’t do it yourself, you probably shouldn’t be there,” Jordan said.
It’s unlikely that guiding companies will discontinue the practice, since the industry is built upon taking people to places they shouldn’t be on their own."