TR: Washington PCT with Enhancements 6/22-8/8 2019
Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2019 4:22 pm
I wanted to hike in the Cascades and I wanted to see how I would fare hiking over a long period of time, so I did what the cool kids on the PCT these days call a LASH — Long-Ass Section Hike — of the PCT in Washington. Prior to picking up the PCT near the Canadian border, I spent ten days in North Cascades National Park & the Pasayten Wilderness. Some distance south, I left the PCT to hike the Wonderland Trail, and I finished with a hike almost all the way around Mt Adams. It ended up being 701 miles over a period of about seven weeks.
This was not the summer to do this hike. I spent the middle weeks of June with my family in Olympic National Park, Seattle & Vancouver and it was all sunny skies, light winds and moderate temperatures. They dropped me off at the Hannegan Pass Trailhead on June 22, which is now known as The Day The Weather Pattern Changed. The next four or five weeks were quite wet and dreary. Despite missed views and periods of low spirits, I managed to carry on, met some wonderful people, and learned a thing or three about myself. Herewith, a brief account of some highlights and observations.
North Cascades National Park & Pasayten Wilderness
June 22-July 2
I had made a reservation using the lottery system in the spring and one of the back country rangers had talked me out of my desired itinerary because my start date was early by historical standards. As it happened, it was a below average snow year so I stopped at the interagency station in Glacier for a walkup permit to change my starting point back to Hannegan Pass, then east to Whatcom and Beaver Passes, followed by a turn to the south to Ross Lake Resort for my first resupply.
June 22: Overcast and drizzly with a low cloud deck but so very green, and lots of wildflowers in bloom on the 2000’ climb to Hannegan Pass which was snow-free (and also view-free). Encountered the first dozen or so of what were to be hundreds of downed trees in the trail on the east side of the pass. Also encountered my first bear about 150’ ahead of me on the trail. “Hey, bear!” It worked its way around me off trail and continued up toward the pass. Rowdy college boys at the western Copper Creek site, so I took the east site and did my best to ignore the idiot who howled a lot. Just 7.5 miles.
June 23: Many more downed trees on the way to the U.S. Cabin site where I ate Second Breakfast. Coming back out onto the main trail another bear and I surprised each other at 20’. Oh my, I detect a pattern. Turns out I would not see another for weeks. Pulling myself across the Chilliwack River on the cable car was good, clean fun. Supplies had been laid in for installing a new one later in the season. Trail to Indian Creek overgrown to shoulder height in places, but the sites were very nice. Clear skies spied through the canopy high overhead in the late afternoon. Another light day at 7.1 miles.
June 24: Rained overnight so got a good soaking retracing my brushy steps back to the Brush Creek Trail and on up 2800’ to Whatcom Pass. The trail west of Graybeal was like a steeplechase — there were spots where I had to step over logs while ducking under others, all the while walking through water. The weather was starting to clear, so had some partial views of glaciers on Whatcom Peak and Easy Ridge on the way up, and Challenger Glacier on the way down to Little Beaver Creek and the Twin Rocks camps. The steep-sided valleys are visually quite striking. Pack is pretty heavy with microspikes, whippet pole, and extra cold weather clothing for the what-ifs that lay ahead. Worked my way up to 11.4 miles today.
June 25: No real views to speak of going over Beaver Pass which is quite low at 3600’. Got caught out in a thunderstorm and downpour for the final mile into Luna camp. At one point in the planning stages of this trip, I thought a little off-trail side trip into the Luna Creek drainage looked inviting. I know people have done this, but having seen the terrain I don’t know how. Note to self: the Cascades are different than the Sierra. 11.8 miles.
June 26: Another section of long green tunnel all the way down to Ross Lake. Met a trail clearing crew on their way up for an eight day stint near Beaver Pass. Ross Lake was a dismal sight with record low water levels exposing a stump-dotted bathtub ring around the reservoir. Apparently, this was due to a combination of low snowfall and required outflows for power generation and fish spawning. Ugly as hell but with nice views of Jack Mountain. Dried some gear in the sun and ducked into the Pumpkin Mountain site right before the next storms rolled through. 9.5 miles, mostly downhill.
June 27: This morning, with the cloud deck at about 4000’ and rain forecast for the whole day, I decided to bail on hiking up to my reserved site at Pierce Mountain. My initial plan was to head to Diablo for some real food, some beer, and a front-country site. A day-hiking couple familiar with the area informed me I was sadly mistaken about the available amenities. Well…poop. So instead I picked up my resupply package at Ross Lake Resort, crossed Ross Dam, and headed out along the Ruby Arm of Ross Lake on the Happy Panther Trail cussing the weather the whole way. I pitched my tent in the rain just across the park boundary on the banks of Ruby Creek. The rushing water was loud enough to mask the noise of traffic on the North Cascades Hwy 20 just across the creek. Overall a really crummy day. 13 miles, mostly flat.
Dennis
This was not the summer to do this hike. I spent the middle weeks of June with my family in Olympic National Park, Seattle & Vancouver and it was all sunny skies, light winds and moderate temperatures. They dropped me off at the Hannegan Pass Trailhead on June 22, which is now known as The Day The Weather Pattern Changed. The next four or five weeks were quite wet and dreary. Despite missed views and periods of low spirits, I managed to carry on, met some wonderful people, and learned a thing or three about myself. Herewith, a brief account of some highlights and observations.
North Cascades National Park & Pasayten Wilderness
June 22-July 2
I had made a reservation using the lottery system in the spring and one of the back country rangers had talked me out of my desired itinerary because my start date was early by historical standards. As it happened, it was a below average snow year so I stopped at the interagency station in Glacier for a walkup permit to change my starting point back to Hannegan Pass, then east to Whatcom and Beaver Passes, followed by a turn to the south to Ross Lake Resort for my first resupply.
June 22: Overcast and drizzly with a low cloud deck but so very green, and lots of wildflowers in bloom on the 2000’ climb to Hannegan Pass which was snow-free (and also view-free). Encountered the first dozen or so of what were to be hundreds of downed trees in the trail on the east side of the pass. Also encountered my first bear about 150’ ahead of me on the trail. “Hey, bear!” It worked its way around me off trail and continued up toward the pass. Rowdy college boys at the western Copper Creek site, so I took the east site and did my best to ignore the idiot who howled a lot. Just 7.5 miles.
June 23: Many more downed trees on the way to the U.S. Cabin site where I ate Second Breakfast. Coming back out onto the main trail another bear and I surprised each other at 20’. Oh my, I detect a pattern. Turns out I would not see another for weeks. Pulling myself across the Chilliwack River on the cable car was good, clean fun. Supplies had been laid in for installing a new one later in the season. Trail to Indian Creek overgrown to shoulder height in places, but the sites were very nice. Clear skies spied through the canopy high overhead in the late afternoon. Another light day at 7.1 miles.
June 24: Rained overnight so got a good soaking retracing my brushy steps back to the Brush Creek Trail and on up 2800’ to Whatcom Pass. The trail west of Graybeal was like a steeplechase — there were spots where I had to step over logs while ducking under others, all the while walking through water. The weather was starting to clear, so had some partial views of glaciers on Whatcom Peak and Easy Ridge on the way up, and Challenger Glacier on the way down to Little Beaver Creek and the Twin Rocks camps. The steep-sided valleys are visually quite striking. Pack is pretty heavy with microspikes, whippet pole, and extra cold weather clothing for the what-ifs that lay ahead. Worked my way up to 11.4 miles today.
June 25: No real views to speak of going over Beaver Pass which is quite low at 3600’. Got caught out in a thunderstorm and downpour for the final mile into Luna camp. At one point in the planning stages of this trip, I thought a little off-trail side trip into the Luna Creek drainage looked inviting. I know people have done this, but having seen the terrain I don’t know how. Note to self: the Cascades are different than the Sierra. 11.8 miles.
June 26: Another section of long green tunnel all the way down to Ross Lake. Met a trail clearing crew on their way up for an eight day stint near Beaver Pass. Ross Lake was a dismal sight with record low water levels exposing a stump-dotted bathtub ring around the reservoir. Apparently, this was due to a combination of low snowfall and required outflows for power generation and fish spawning. Ugly as hell but with nice views of Jack Mountain. Dried some gear in the sun and ducked into the Pumpkin Mountain site right before the next storms rolled through. 9.5 miles, mostly downhill.
June 27: This morning, with the cloud deck at about 4000’ and rain forecast for the whole day, I decided to bail on hiking up to my reserved site at Pierce Mountain. My initial plan was to head to Diablo for some real food, some beer, and a front-country site. A day-hiking couple familiar with the area informed me I was sadly mistaken about the available amenities. Well…poop. So instead I picked up my resupply package at Ross Lake Resort, crossed Ross Dam, and headed out along the Ruby Arm of Ross Lake on the Happy Panther Trail cussing the weather the whole way. I pitched my tent in the rain just across the park boundary on the banks of Ruby Creek. The rushing water was loud enough to mask the noise of traffic on the North Cascades Hwy 20 just across the creek. Overall a really crummy day. 13 miles, mostly flat.
Dennis