How to do Yosemite in May
Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2019 12:06 pm
I was going to bump up my early season Yosemite trips, but they are such a mish-mash I though I would just describe what is possible for longer backpacks starting in Yosemite Valley (or Glacier Point if road is open)
There are 4 basic trips 1) North Rim Traverse, 2) Pohono Trail, 3) Panorama Trail, 4) Merced River. When the Glacier Road is not open you can combine the last three into one long trip. When Glacier Point Road is open, three separate trips works well- North Rim, Pohono, combined Panorama-Merced.
The North Rim Trail is about 20 miles, 2-3 days. Pohono is 18 miles, 2 days. The Merced-Panorama combination is 30 miles, 3.5 days (and includes climbing Clouds Rest). If you do not climb Clouds Rest it is a 3 day trip or 25 miles. You can delete the Merced Lake and Clouds Rest portion, camp at Little Yosemite Valley and make it a 2 day trip.
When Glacier Point Road opens, camping is very restricted. Bridalveil bridge is the approved site for the Pohono; I have used a "stealth" site that probably is legal about half a mile off the Panorama trail on the trail towards Star King. It is best simply to reach Little Yosemite Valley or beyond to camp. When Glacier Point Road is closed, you are under winter rules.
You WILL encounter snow on all these routes, so you need to be able to navigate when trails are covered with snow. Other than a few side streams that will require wading (and calf deep wading across Echo Valley), major flows all have footbridges. These routes include long days and LOTS of elevation gain. They are very rigorous. You certainly can slow them down, as long as you can figure out where to legally camp.
I have not shown side-trips to Mt Watkins or to the top of El Cap, but these can be added to the North Rim Traverse. In addition, the Four Mile Trail is another link between Yosemite Valley and Glacier Point. If your car is up at Glacier Point and you end up in the Valley, it is a very scenic 4-5 hour day-hike up to Glacier Point on the Four Mile Trail.
Shuttle busses only run between Happy Isles to the east and Camp 4 to the west. Later in the season a shuttle to El Cap Meadow is provided. The Pohono trail only has two legal places to park cars overnight- the Wawona Tunnel overnight parking and Glacier Point. You have to have a valid backpacking permit to drive your own car to Glacier Point most of the time. Also, later in the season, a concessioner bus runs many times a day between Yosemite Lodge and Glacier Point (about $25).
When the Half Dome Cables open, it is really hard to get a permit to camp at Little Yosemite Valley. Before the cables open it is quite easy. It is not as bad early because it does not get that crowded. If possible, camp farther up the Merced. You have to go above Bunnell Falls before it is legal to camp. There are established campsites uphill above the Clouds Rest-JMT trail junction. These used to be legal, not sure what the rule is now.
What I describe below will be one way to do everything, assuming Glacier Point Road is not yet open, and you would park your car in the Valley. Typically it opens mid-May, or even in April in low snow years. You would have to plan to drive to the valley, get your permits and camp at the Backpackers Campground the day before the trip. Half days back to the Valley will allow you to do some sight-seeing. I have assumed you have to get a new permit every time you return to the valley- may not bee needed for a pass-through. I also plan on resupplying in the valley- there are good grocery stores. This makes packs lighter. You could just haul all the food - which may be better if you plan on pass-through the valley instead of staying. Early season shuttle busses do not start running until about 8AM. The wilderness office closes about 4-5 pm. Camp 4 may be more convenient, but is usually full and quite noisy. I prefer the backpackers campground.
When Glacier Point is open, you would instead, park at Glacier point- go to valley via Pohono- then do North Rim Traverse, and end from Happy Isles, up the Merced (with Clouds Rest hike), out Panorama to Glacier Point.
It may take me a while to post the actual route plan and photos.
There are 4 basic trips 1) North Rim Traverse, 2) Pohono Trail, 3) Panorama Trail, 4) Merced River. When the Glacier Road is not open you can combine the last three into one long trip. When Glacier Point Road is open, three separate trips works well- North Rim, Pohono, combined Panorama-Merced.
The North Rim Trail is about 20 miles, 2-3 days. Pohono is 18 miles, 2 days. The Merced-Panorama combination is 30 miles, 3.5 days (and includes climbing Clouds Rest). If you do not climb Clouds Rest it is a 3 day trip or 25 miles. You can delete the Merced Lake and Clouds Rest portion, camp at Little Yosemite Valley and make it a 2 day trip.
When Glacier Point Road opens, camping is very restricted. Bridalveil bridge is the approved site for the Pohono; I have used a "stealth" site that probably is legal about half a mile off the Panorama trail on the trail towards Star King. It is best simply to reach Little Yosemite Valley or beyond to camp. When Glacier Point Road is closed, you are under winter rules.
You WILL encounter snow on all these routes, so you need to be able to navigate when trails are covered with snow. Other than a few side streams that will require wading (and calf deep wading across Echo Valley), major flows all have footbridges. These routes include long days and LOTS of elevation gain. They are very rigorous. You certainly can slow them down, as long as you can figure out where to legally camp.
I have not shown side-trips to Mt Watkins or to the top of El Cap, but these can be added to the North Rim Traverse. In addition, the Four Mile Trail is another link between Yosemite Valley and Glacier Point. If your car is up at Glacier Point and you end up in the Valley, it is a very scenic 4-5 hour day-hike up to Glacier Point on the Four Mile Trail.
Shuttle busses only run between Happy Isles to the east and Camp 4 to the west. Later in the season a shuttle to El Cap Meadow is provided. The Pohono trail only has two legal places to park cars overnight- the Wawona Tunnel overnight parking and Glacier Point. You have to have a valid backpacking permit to drive your own car to Glacier Point most of the time. Also, later in the season, a concessioner bus runs many times a day between Yosemite Lodge and Glacier Point (about $25).
When the Half Dome Cables open, it is really hard to get a permit to camp at Little Yosemite Valley. Before the cables open it is quite easy. It is not as bad early because it does not get that crowded. If possible, camp farther up the Merced. You have to go above Bunnell Falls before it is legal to camp. There are established campsites uphill above the Clouds Rest-JMT trail junction. These used to be legal, not sure what the rule is now.
What I describe below will be one way to do everything, assuming Glacier Point Road is not yet open, and you would park your car in the Valley. Typically it opens mid-May, or even in April in low snow years. You would have to plan to drive to the valley, get your permits and camp at the Backpackers Campground the day before the trip. Half days back to the Valley will allow you to do some sight-seeing. I have assumed you have to get a new permit every time you return to the valley- may not bee needed for a pass-through. I also plan on resupplying in the valley- there are good grocery stores. This makes packs lighter. You could just haul all the food - which may be better if you plan on pass-through the valley instead of staying. Early season shuttle busses do not start running until about 8AM. The wilderness office closes about 4-5 pm. Camp 4 may be more convenient, but is usually full and quite noisy. I prefer the backpackers campground.
When Glacier Point is open, you would instead, park at Glacier point- go to valley via Pohono- then do North Rim Traverse, and end from Happy Isles, up the Merced (with Clouds Rest hike), out Panorama to Glacier Point.
It may take me a while to post the actual route plan and photos.