High Sierra Topix

Can anyone recommend a class 3/4 thirteener in the southeastern Sierra with good rock quality? In this area, it seems like class 3 is often a euphemism for slogging your way up a chute full of loose debris that's reminiscent of the scene in Star Wars where Luke Skywalker et al. are trapped inside a trash compactor. I spent some time browsing the SPS list of "Mountaineer's Peaks,"
http://www.summitpost.org/sps-mountaine ... aks/311165" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ,
but it was difficult to pick out which ones weren't in the trash compactor category. The east ridge of Mt. Russell (which I've done) would be an example of a classic climb of the type I'm looking for.

I'd vote for Mt. LeConte, although it's nearly 14k (13960). Even the easiest route has some interesting and very solid 3rd class. There is some controversy as to what that hardest move on the 'easy route' should be rated (the notorious Waterfall Pitch) and this overshadows the fact that there are additional class 3 moves on solid rock above it. There are other routes (class 3 and harder) on the peak that have a good reputation, too. I haven't done Mt. McAdie, but it too has a reputation for quality 3rd and 4th class routes.

Mt. Carl Heller

Thanks for the suggestions. Just to clarify, by "13er" I meant at least 13, not between 13 and 14. I don't have anything against doing a 14er.

Mt Johnson has an excellent class 3 route, but it does fall a couple hundred feet short of 13k and is a bit further north.

University Peak is another good one, but is class 2/3, not 3/4.

Brian

brvoyles wrote:University Peak is another good one, but is class 2/3, not 3/4.

Thanks for the suggestions. Which route on University Peak do you have in mind? http://www.summitpost.org/university-pe ... #chapter_4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

bcrowell wrote:

brvoyles wrote:University Peak is another good one, but is class 2/3, not 3/4.

Thanks for the suggestions. Which route on University Peak do you have in mind? http://www.summitpost.org/university-pe ... #chapter_4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Of the class 3 routes, the one with the least crummy approach may be the north face route (see Secor 2nd ed. p. 142, but I haven't done that one (I did an entirely class 2 route from the north that hooked around to the other side--this route isn't listed in any guidebooks).

bcrowell wrote:

brvoyles wrote:University Peak is another good one, but is class 2/3, not 3/4.

Thanks for the suggestions. Which route on University Peak do you have in mind? http://www.summitpost.org/university-pe ... #chapter_4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

North Face.

University views are great, but expect crapola on the approach

Thanks, all, for the suggestions! I have a permit out of Onion Valley for Aug 4, will try to do the north face of University Peak.