Rating of off-trail passes
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 2:14 pm
The classic rating of class 1, 2, 3, and 4 has problems, in my opinion, when applied to backpacking over passes because it really is designed for scrambling/climbing. I contend that hauling a backpack is different from day-hiking/climbing. I want to focus only on backpacking.
Most people backpack over class 1-2 passes. The categories are simply too broad.
Trails. I would propose "maintained trail", "non-maintained trail", and "game trail" to describe all trail-like backpacking.
EASY (old Class 1). Travel that requires navigation, walking on smooth to rough terrain, with only occasional use of hands. I think a few lengths of easy talus should not bump a rating to MODERATE (class 2). A class 1 pass should "feel" easy to an experienced backpacker. There should be no significant exposure. A fall should result only in broken bones (or concussion) at worst. You should not feel that you are going to die or lose it! A You should be able to handle a heavy pack. No excessive bending down or weird shifting of balance. It should never be so steep that it is scary. There are some maintained trials that are exposed and steep- like Forrester Pass. But the trail itself is wide and walking does not require you to do complex maneuvers. You may have to step up and over things, but not bend over to use hands. If hands are used, the holds are big and easy to reach.
MODERATE (Class 2). This should "feel" moderately difficult to an experienced backpacker. I would call it easy scrambling with a pack on your back. You definitely have to slow down. Foot placements have to be thought out. Talus-hopping should be user-friendly. No excessively long actual jumps over huge voids. Steepness is OK as long as there is good footing. Handholds still big but you may have to bend a little to reach them. Nothing should make you feel that you have to take off your pack to get down or up. Use of hands and feet should be obvious. No specific climbing techniques required (although climbing skills would be make it easier). Scree OK if it only involves normal "scree-skiing". Exposure such that you would not tumble all the way down the pass if you fell. The terrain should be such that safety is not compromised - it may be a miserable pass but safe. Also the actual route should be very obvious.
DIFFICULT (Class 2-3). This should feel difficult. A larger degree of safety issues - loose rock, exposure, other objective dangers. It is likely that you would have to take off your pack to get up or down the more difficult sections. This of course is for very short distances- like lifting pack up to next ledge or lowering pack over a small cliff that you can easily down-climb were it not for the pack. Rock hopping could involve larger steps over deep voids. Still no Olympics style broad jumping! A possibility of tumbling down a distance (but not all the way). Again climbing technique useful but not required. Good route-finding abilities needed. Moderately steep friction slabs.
VERY DIFFICULT (Class 3). This should feel downright "scary" to the average experienced backpacker. Some basic climbing techniques required. Longer sections where you may have to lower pack or haul pack due to moves that require you to bend such that you cannot keep a pack on your back. A short rope required. Very exposed. Could fall and die. Dangerously loose rock. Very steep ball bearing hard dirt or sand. Excellent route finding needed. Perhaps a very short section of class 4. Hands used extensively. Steep exposed friction slabs.
I contend that continuous Class 4 is beyond backpacking.
My biggest gripe is that Class 2 is too broad, thus meaningless.
I just want to open the discussion. Any other ideas? I have not addressed snow because unless a permanent snow gully, the presence or absence of snow changes difficulty and the condition of the snow makes difficulty very variable.
Most people backpack over class 1-2 passes. The categories are simply too broad.
Trails. I would propose "maintained trail", "non-maintained trail", and "game trail" to describe all trail-like backpacking.
EASY (old Class 1). Travel that requires navigation, walking on smooth to rough terrain, with only occasional use of hands. I think a few lengths of easy talus should not bump a rating to MODERATE (class 2). A class 1 pass should "feel" easy to an experienced backpacker. There should be no significant exposure. A fall should result only in broken bones (or concussion) at worst. You should not feel that you are going to die or lose it! A You should be able to handle a heavy pack. No excessive bending down or weird shifting of balance. It should never be so steep that it is scary. There are some maintained trials that are exposed and steep- like Forrester Pass. But the trail itself is wide and walking does not require you to do complex maneuvers. You may have to step up and over things, but not bend over to use hands. If hands are used, the holds are big and easy to reach.
MODERATE (Class 2). This should "feel" moderately difficult to an experienced backpacker. I would call it easy scrambling with a pack on your back. You definitely have to slow down. Foot placements have to be thought out. Talus-hopping should be user-friendly. No excessively long actual jumps over huge voids. Steepness is OK as long as there is good footing. Handholds still big but you may have to bend a little to reach them. Nothing should make you feel that you have to take off your pack to get down or up. Use of hands and feet should be obvious. No specific climbing techniques required (although climbing skills would be make it easier). Scree OK if it only involves normal "scree-skiing". Exposure such that you would not tumble all the way down the pass if you fell. The terrain should be such that safety is not compromised - it may be a miserable pass but safe. Also the actual route should be very obvious.
DIFFICULT (Class 2-3). This should feel difficult. A larger degree of safety issues - loose rock, exposure, other objective dangers. It is likely that you would have to take off your pack to get up or down the more difficult sections. This of course is for very short distances- like lifting pack up to next ledge or lowering pack over a small cliff that you can easily down-climb were it not for the pack. Rock hopping could involve larger steps over deep voids. Still no Olympics style broad jumping! A possibility of tumbling down a distance (but not all the way). Again climbing technique useful but not required. Good route-finding abilities needed. Moderately steep friction slabs.
VERY DIFFICULT (Class 3). This should feel downright "scary" to the average experienced backpacker. Some basic climbing techniques required. Longer sections where you may have to lower pack or haul pack due to moves that require you to bend such that you cannot keep a pack on your back. A short rope required. Very exposed. Could fall and die. Dangerously loose rock. Very steep ball bearing hard dirt or sand. Excellent route finding needed. Perhaps a very short section of class 4. Hands used extensively. Steep exposed friction slabs.
I contend that continuous Class 4 is beyond backpacking.
My biggest gripe is that Class 2 is too broad, thus meaningless.
I just want to open the discussion. Any other ideas? I have not addressed snow because unless a permanent snow gully, the presence or absence of snow changes difficulty and the condition of the snow makes difficulty very variable.