Conditions between Lake Catherine and Banner/Ritter Saddle??

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seanr
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Re: Conditions between Lake Catherine and Banner/Ritter Saddle??

Post by seanr »

Well, we all have our own preferences. Had I been backpacking to Lake Catherine in current conditions, I'd have done Banner exactly the way giantbrookie describes on my first day. It looked to be reasonable class 2, with no glacier travel necessary if traversing clockwise a bit above the lake and under Banner, then staying left of the glacier.

I might have considered camping near the beautiful upper Ritter Lake directly below the west slope rather than at Lake Catherine. I saw no other people on my Sunday dayhike once half way around Thosand Island Lake until nearly at the northwest shore of Ediza.

I found the Ritter West Slope Route to be stable class 2 with the caveat that I was armed with this excellent description to keep me out of route-finding trouble:

http://www.summitpost.org/west-slope/438342" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.summitpost.org/mt-ritter-wes ... 8/c-438342" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Image

http://www.summitpost.org/ritter-west-s ... 1/c-438342" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Image

I suspect it would have been very challenging for me without the above as a guide. Even with those directions it was moderately steep and slightly exposed feeling in a few areas compared to easy class 2. I don't recall it feeling extremely long nor taxing, but was a bit distracted by the views of the smoke plume and glow from the fire. I recall repeatedly noticing a mitt like rock formation on the ridge to the south to aim toward if I needed to return to descend the way I ascended. There were some logically placed small cairns as well. I did not find it necessary to follow step 9 in xharv's directions. Getting to the summit seemed easy once on the ridge/at the saddle.

I saved some time and mileage on my descent by looping down the SE glacier route to Ediza finding it to be loose in places, but generally easy to keep to class 2, albeit approaching easy class 3 or harder in places if not cautious enough to search for the least technical options. I researched tips from Bob Burd/SP, but didn't find myself carefully reviewing directions as I descended. Getting through the steep, loose sections 100% unscathed did require some skill, gloves, and luck. It would be easy to get scraped, bruised, or to knock a rock down onto any partners. In comparison, the west slope was more firm and stable.
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Wandering Daisy
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Re: Conditions between Lake Catherine and Banner/Ritter Saddle??

Post by Wandering Daisy »

Snow/ice or no snow? Depends on your background. I personally will choose a snow filled gully over a talus filled gully any day. I LIKE snow and ice and the only drawback is having to carry crampons and ice axe. Slogging up a bunch of class 2 boulders is not my cup of tea. I did Ritter and Banner on the same trip, early season, both mostly on snow. If you have the snow climbing skills, climbing early when there is snow is actually easier (and in my opinion, more aesthetic) than later when the snow melts and you are left with gritty dirty talus. So yes, if your goal is to bag the peaks and you prefer not to be on snow, this year offered some excellent opportunities. On the other hand, if your goal is a more aesthetic experience, I would do both Ritter and Banner early in a high snow year. Early season snow has yet to turn to ice; wait until late season and you have to deal with blue ice.
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seanr
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Re: Conditions between Lake Catherine and Banner/Ritter Saddle??

Post by seanr »

For sure, WD, but personally I have never used and don't yet own axe nor pons. I look forward to trying what you are describing and have done some early season peak hikes that I felt secure on with just trekking poles. As far as Ritter area, I was just happy to finally hike anywhere near Mammoth. Besides it being a long drive for me, I've been avoiding the area because my current highest priorities beyond great scenery include avoiding shuttles, fees, and crowds, while still providing fun car camping and shorter hiking/activities for my wife, kids, and dogs.
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